A beautiful mural of the city as backdrop to the piscina.

Anita and Olivia drying off after using me as their autobus in the pool.

La colazione per gli ospiti. The table has been decorated with wine boxes, most of them from local vineyards in Piemonte.

Santuario San Giuseppe, originally Santa Chiara, the convent where Nonna grew up and lived for ten years.

Inside Santuario San Giuseppe

Piazza Statuto. This is my favourite building so far!

The cathedral with its bandiere (flags) in the lead up to the Palio on Sunday

The very phallic agenzia delle entrate (cazzo = cock!). The red/white brick combination is said to be very typical of fascist architecture.

Brum!

Making scones!

Olivia mid-scone-eating

Piazza San Secondo, selling merchandise for the upcoming Palio. Each part of the city has a different flag - we’ll be supporting La Cattedrale with white and light blue colours.

Asti was once called la città delle 100 torri, the city of 100 towers.

An abandoned, but beautiful, house in the centre of Asti

My new friend, Manu. Ciao!

Helped Clotilde clean the guest rooms this morning whilst Olivia offered to refill the sweetie jars they leave as an offering upon arrival....luckily Clotilde checked the contents before anyone arrived! 😂

Revealed I’d brought my ukulele and sang Ten Green Bottles together!

La prova (rehearsal) before the Palio!

Fans at the rehearsal

Walking Tour

Felt like a proper tourist on the walking tour but learnt a lot about Asti and the Palio.

We began in Piazza Alfieri, named after a famous writer. I learnt that the Palio takes place annually to commemorate the richness of the city during the Middle Ages. We arrived at Piazza San Secondo, San Secondo being the patron saint of the city, home to a 13th century church and the town hall; this square is the centre of the city.

21 teams compete in the Palio, 14 of them representing regions within the city and 7 from outside - these towns were once governed by Asti so it’s considered an honour to still be involved. Each year a different flag is designed for the Palio, of which two copies are made - one for the church in San Secondo and another for the winner.

A new custom to the Palio, whereby old cars make their way through the town with beautiful women representing each competing team

Entrance to the Jewish quarter. Asti welcomed the Jewish community when Spain, Germany and France rejected them. They occupied a small part of the city and were not allowed to have windows facing the nearby Catholic Church. One rich family, however, was a big fan of Italian art and culture and commissioned a local artist to create the above painting. With this in their possession, they were allowed their windows! I had a thought that Nonna may have Jewish ancestry, before the tour guide told us they were all sent to concentration camps during WWII, and only one returned to live in Asti.

Even though I bloody HATE the organ I felt it was an opportunity not to be missed to go to a concert in the cathedral. Thunder and lightning filled the hall for La Notte Del’Organo and made it a pretty dramatic experience! One of the pieces had a bassline identical to Turn Up The Volume, a dance track I made with my “band” when I was thirteen, and I was transported back to the gig I once did with them before remembering where I was and that I was the youngest audience member by about 80 years.

🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹

So far my thoughts on Italians are that they’re incredibly open and warm, very expressive and are no-bullshit. They all smell so GOOD!?

I am verrrry fond of the family already and love the way Jacopo and Clotilde talk to the girls, with so much love. Playing with le bimbe requires lots of energy but they’re constantly making me laugh and smile, and at random moments just give me hugs which I LOOOOVE! Anita’s always shouting “Che foooorrrrrrte!” (Cool!) and Olivia always has some toy or drawing to show me. Looking forward to the build up to the Palio tomorrow! Clotilde said about 4000 tickets have been sold this year so it’s gonna be MATTO! (MAD!)

Ten green bottles 🎶

Tanti animali!

First gelato of the month!

Watching local children in la sfilata (parade) in the build up to the Palio.

Such good rhythm and so young!! 😱

...my personal favourite

Tonight we shared dinner with between 300 and 400 other locals that make up the Cathedral team for the Palio! Everyone was so lovely. I’m quite in love with the Mediterranean lifestyle.

We had so many courses!

- Carne crudo (cold, cooked meat)

- A kind of salad with walnuts, cheese and celery

- A pesto lasagne

- Agnolotti (kind of like ravioli)

- Some kind of meat with carrots - was too drunk on vino rosso by this point to recognise or care what I was eating

- Chocolate mousse to finish

Me and family Accornero 💕 - we all wore blue and white, the team’s colours! And I’d already bought the flag to tie around my neck (see below!)

“CATTEDRALE, BATTI LE MANI!!” (Team cathedral, put your hands together!!)

Songs from tonight:

Azzurro - Adriano Celentano 

https://youtu.be/nCWZcNTSVbM

Cara Italia (Oreo song!) - Ghali

https://youtu.be/z3UCQj8EFGk

Early rise to prepare breakfast for the cold German guests - they asked for decaf coffee and turned down the cafetière made stuff! I then went on run to Maddona di Viatosto, pictured above.

11am: Esibizione degli sbandieratori dell’A.S.T.A. - Flag display

2pm: La sfilata - Parade with over 1000 participants each wearing medieval costumes and representing the 21 different parishes or rioni

SELFIEEEE 🤳🏻🤳🏻🤳🏻

4pm: Corsa del Palio - The Horserace

Managed to sneak a ticket two minutes before it started for 30€. Considering some cost 100€ I think I got pretty lucky with my view of the course, or pista! Lovely friendly man sold me my ticket.

The race consisted of three rounds, each with seven teams, followed by a final with nine teams - first, second and third place from each previous round. The atmosphere was fantastic! Countless false starts meant the whole thing lasted over three hours but so glad I went! Our team, La Cattedrale, just missed out on first place to Comune Moncalvo. Great buzz from the crowd.

After the race I reaaaaally wanted a glass of wine, and without me asking it came with all these extra nibbly bits for only 5€. Blisssssss

We took Siria for a walk and got ice cream in town. So damn goooood.

Since they’d never tried one before, I cooked the family a pie - chicken, bacon and mushroom - which went down really well! Jacopo wants me to make another next week!

I then took her into town to mooch about the shops and she got in a strop with me because I didn’t buy her anything 😂 Next time I won’t make the mistake of letting her pick things out to admire! Nearly had a heart attack when she went to grab some Gucci heals!

Bought a ticket which allows me entry into six museums in the next two days - for only 3 euros!!! Today I went to Palazzo Mazzetti, Palazzo Alfieri and Torre Troyana and had a bangin’ coffee in Piazza San Secondo.

Really nice evening. Went through Red Riding Hood vocab and then all laughed a lot at the dinner table. Invented the tongue twister “osso di un grosso orsso rosso” - the bone of a fat red bear. Anita has taken to play fighting my boobs...it makes her laugh a lot bouncing off them 🤷‍♀️

Sang Wheels on the Bus then, when the bimbe went for their riposino, I headed to Domus Romana, Cripta e Museo Di Sant’Anastasio and Museo Paleontologico territoriale dell’Astigiano. Can’t pretend they were overly exciting but quite impressive to look at!

Was in a good mood and indulged in a pistachio and stracciatella ice cream, followed by a coffee in a really cute little outdoor cafe.

Went to Mass for the first time, in Nonna’s church. Didn’t make out much except sangue di cristo and just watched from the back. Some fiercely religious older women sang a capella in harmony as it ended and gave me shivers - not sure if it was enjoyment or heebie jeebies! Mixed emotions knowing Nonna grew up between these walls, but that she was treated pretty cruelly. Comunque... Rest in peace Nonna.

Looots of laughter with Anita and Olivia, mainly because of Ani farting!!! Clotilde’s sister and her boyfriend came over for pizza. Prosciutto and fungi mamma miiiiiaaaa amazing.

Watched Sing, the cartoon, in my pjs before bed. I’m SEVEN AGAIN

They found the camera on my phone...

One blissful hour to myself in the suuuuuun yuuuum

Did a bit of shoe shopping in the afternoon (with no success), after I broke my flip flops skipping down the street with the girls 🤦‍♀️.

Then came the Sagre Festival! Jacopo was very tired from work and a bit down with his dad in hospital, and the girls were tired and irritable so Clo and I went together, half an hour before opening time, to get all our orders in. Each paese from Piemonte has a different stall, selling one or two typical dishes each (usually one savoury and one sweet). I have NEVER felt more full in my life!

I had...

- Rustica ai formaggio

- Involtino di peperone (con ripieno di tonno, burro, acciughe e capperi)

- Agnolotti al sugo di carne (from Rocca D’Arazzo, where nonna used to play as a child)

- Salsiccia alla Barbera d’Asti

- Uova al tegamino con tartufo e polenta.  (which looks absolutely atrocious in the photo but tasted scrummeeeey!!)

And also boughtRotolo al cacao con nocciole but had to take home in a goody bag after so much food!

Even though the thought of moving after all that was unbearable, Clo said I should take a stroll in the evening to soak up the atmosphere as she believes Sagre to be the highlight of the year. Just an hour or so after we’d been in the town centre, it was absolutely rammed full of people, with music acts scattered all about. The Sagre coincides with Douja D’Or, their wine festival, so the centre was heaving with people and so buzzy!! 

Asti is effin’ great.

Each paese was categorised into a different season, and musical bands marked the end of each season and the start of a new one.

After the parade it was back to the main square for MORE food! Tagliatelle with tartufo is my favourite so far 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼

Below is a map of all the stalls at the Sagre, and the menu to the right. I’ve ticked off eight dishes in under 24 hours! Everyone kept saying “domani, dieta.”

...

I’ve had such a nice evening 😀 Clotilde’s sister, Mariana, is also 22 and I’ve seen quite a bit of her with the family over the last two weeks. This evening Clo and Jacopo were too tired to go back to the sagre and the girls go back to school tomorrow so Mariana said I could go with her and her boyfriend. Anyway just had such a nice time with them and got lucky because he works in the wine industry and obviously knows a lot, so after eating (Fritto Misto 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼) we went to the wine festival, Douja D’Or, and he recommended loads of different types. Now that I’ve bought the wine glass I can go back over the next week and try loads of different ones! Also, it was reassuring because they had two other friends there and I was telling them all about how I’m here because of nonna and that I’d be meeting my Italian relatives, that I’d barely learnt any Italian before and they were all really impressed and gave me a bit of a reality check and a boost!

They were all going “brava brava brava” and I felt good! Had a laugh and was only speaking Italian. WAHOOOOO.

Stefano’s friend was drinking Vermouth, and said he thinks with one try of it, “ci cambia la vita.” How bloody romantic and Italian.

The barrel above is only cleaned every six months, but after a couple of years, a special guy comes and squeezes through the tiny door at the bottom to give it a deep clean. It’s like some kind of circus act! He must have the body of a small child!

The view from Marchesi Alfieri. Not clear from the photo but there are people in the centre picking grapes. As we entered the winery so did two trucks filled with freshly hand picked grapes!

The hedge is in the shape of a half-daisy in honour of Queen Margarita, which means daisy! The two buildings on the outer side are original buildings from the 17th century, and a road used to run in between them. The Alfieri family decided they wanted more land, and so demolished the original San Martino village and had a garden designed for them, in the English romantic style.

🤤🤤🤤

Sat in the grounds admiring the view and finishing off some cows cheese and salame, and got papped by a wandering Austrian who’d also done the tour with me.

Then we made pancakes nom nom nom. Good laugh today with Clo.

Hot and bothered after making the family a shepherds pie and being cried, screamed and laughed at all day, so I went back to the Douja D’Or on my own and had two glasses of wine, two scoops of ice cream, sampled two creamy liqueurs and spoke to two friendly locals.

Note to self...don’t leave bedroom door open with expensive makeup lying about when you’re living with a four-year-old...

Above: Rocca D’Arazzo

Once back in Asti, I went to the cemetery there to seek out Giacomo, nonna’s foster father who was buried in the city when Nonna was four. Sadly no luck finding him, even after downloading an app - “hip” cemetery!! Also molto pretty.

Typical morning cleaning the B&B. Took a stroll in the city centre with Anita after lunch, and bumped into a family friend who runs a suit shop and has the most gorgeous little dog, Viola.

Jacopo and Clotilde took Olivia to hospital as her eye was getting more and more swollen! Meanwhile Anita and I made them all flapjack.

In the evening, headed to the (grammatically incorrectly named!) event, “Wine Street Tasting”, with Mariana and Stefano. Started with formaggio, then an amazing Barbera d’Asti flavoured risotto with salsiccia, then a nocciola dolce. Found my favourite red wine so far! La Nizza!

Me and Mariana

Risotto cooked with Barbera d’Asti

Final night at the Douja D’Or, with my favourite red wine so far, La Nizza

I told them that I thought Italians smell really good, so they then took me to a perfumerie and asked a member of staff to let me sample all the Italian perfumes. Paola even offered to buy me one(!!!) but would’ve been stupid money. So generous and was feeling thoroughly spoilt all day. Immediately more relaxed and myself with them than the family in Asti, but then they are my blood!

Torino city centre

La Mole

Paola, Matteo and Sara reading the messages mum, dad and I had written for them

Train to Savigliano where they live before going out for pizza with another cousin, Paolo, and his wife. Paola and Paolo (confusing!) spoke lots about their memories of dad and nonna, and it suddenly hit me how cool it was to be chatting to and sharing a pizza with my Italian blood relatives. I kept saying to them I couldn’t believe I was sat there talking to them when I’d always thought of my Italian relatives being something of a distant thing. They said it was a real pleasure for them too and it really felt such a special evening.

We took a stroll about Savigliano and Paolo told me lots about the history of the city - of which I think I understood about half! The historical centre was gorgeous. When they said it was small I was imagining a sad little town but it was really gorgeous, especially at night. They said it’s referred to as a little Sienna because of its beauty, especially Piazza Santorre di Santa Rosa, whose buildings had new rows of arcades built on the previous facades when the old square was embellished in the 15th century - if I understood correctly! There was also an ex-convent that became a hospital for soldiers, a 19th century theatre and an arch built in honour of some nobility who passed through the city.

...so all my Italian relatives are short, and use elaborate words to express themselves - two things I get taken the mickey out of by my friends at home! Now I have an excuse; it’s my Italian-ness!

At dinner we were all talking about learning languages and they all said how they struggle with English. Paolo said “Charlie è la più brava di tutti”.  

Discovered that Nonna was 68 when Paola went to visit her in England. She told me she has fond memories of going to nonna’s flat in Imperia, where nonna made them Ciambella, a cake with a whole in the centre, and  a Roast on a Sunday! Was also told that dad once tried to convince Paola’s dad to watch a football match with him in Milan with no success! I gave them two pages of family photos, and they opened a drawer of photo albums and showed me the photos they already had of us, saved in pride of place on the top of the pile!

Finally learnt how to order the right coffee in Italy.

- Caffè normale - espresso

- Caffè lungo - a bigger espresso

- Caffè macchinata - espresso with a bit of milk 

- Cappuccino - Coffee in a larger cup with a bit of milk

- Latte - Coffee in a larger cup with more milk than coffee

Sunday 16th

Another lovely day! Began by watching Sara play volleyball at a local sports day type thing, then they drove me through the beautiful UNESCO hills to a gorgeous restaurant. Spectacular views and incredible food! Had Tajarin pasta for the first time, then Pesche Ripiene. Run out of words to describe how good the food’s been here.

UNESCO hills

View from restaurant!

From left to right: Massimo, Alessandra, Matteo, Sara and Paola

Found a cute spot en route to Alba with a large bench! Took a stroll about the town in Alba and had a coffee, before Massimo drove me back to Asti. Was sad to say goodbye to my family! Feeling very lucky.

Above: Alba

Back in Asti there was a human chess event (and ASTA flag/drumming sfilata again!) going on in the cathedral square, with the black team representing different types of Piedmontese red wines, and the white team representing the white wines!

One stereotype I’ve always had about Italians is the way they gesticulate with their hands and it’s ABSOLUTELY TRUE!!! My relatives taught me when some of the most common ones are used. Pinching the fingers and thumbs together and pulsing the hand up and down means “Cosa dici?” But what are you saying? Pulsing the hand backwards behind the head means “Molto tempo fa” A long time ago, and poking the index finger into a dimple in the cheek means “Buooooono”, that it tastes good!

A lesson in gesticolazione italiana

Absolute headache 🤪 but they’re happy!!!

REALLY loved the design exhibition at the Triennale Museum. Highlights include a personalised urn(!?) and a ‘Libroletto’ - literally ‘Bookbed’ - made up of big pages of different fabrics each bordered with zips and a short line of text, the idea being the user can arrange the fabrics how they like to form a story and assist the process of learning to read.

I then ate a prosciutto and mozzarella panzerotto from Luini’s before a BRUTAL climb to the top of the Duomo. Funny exchange with security man when I laughed and called him out on how obviously he’d checked out the glamorous lady in front of me. Cathedral was very impressive but didn’t even bother taking a photo right from the top on the gallery because, to me, Milan just looked like any other big busy city with skyscrapers all around.

Took a stroll through the richly decorated Galleria Vittorio Emanuele - where I span on a bull on the floor three times for good luck! - before going to the Da Vinci museum. The mock ups of his works were incredible. Then, tired after a busy day so far, had a gelato degustazione at Cioccolati Italiani.

Enjoyed walking down Corso di Porta Dicinese, nipping in and out of some quirky independent shops, before a stroll along the Navigli canals and an apperitivo with my first prosecco of the month! Unfriendly service mixed with my really good book about a lonely lady made me suddenly feel quite sad. Atmosphere was buzzy at the canal though! Reminded me slightly of Camden.

Real Italian Pork 🐽🔥

My phone battery was low so I left plenty of time to get to the station for my train back to Asti...so I thought. A 2km walk took me to an ugly part of the city, and as the minutes ticked on I still didn’t seem to be getting any closer on google maps, as my phone battery  approached 0%. In a panic, with a now dead phone, I asked a passing local where the station was who, sympathetically, said there was no station nearby (despite what google maps had told me!) After confronting a man in his car and a lady waiting for a tram, I finally got to the station - FIVE MINUTES AFTER THE LAST TRAIN TO ASTI! Spoke to an awaiting passenger, a taxi man and two “youths” about what I should do, before being driven (I just had to put my trust in strangers!) to a tram stop and being advised to stay the night at Ostello Bello near the cathedral, instead of paying hundreds to get a taxi back to Asti. An old man awaiting the same tram took pity on me as I explained the situation, and offered to walk the short journey with me to the hostel door from the tram stop. I couldn’t help but think about nonna’s story of the “Saint” on the train when running away from mum and back to Asti. “On the train, there was a tall man. I didn’t say much but I thought he was my protector and I confided in him and told him that I had run away. I’ve never forgotten him – he was like St Joseph to me.” To me this man was my Saint Joseph and I couldn’t have felt more grateful for the help of all the people I spoke to. Italians really are a good people! So much for the good luck at Vittorio Emanuele though...ha!

Luckily the hostel was brilliant, offering me a free beer and two shots upon arrival and sitting me down with some Londoners. Immediately felt more relaxed after a pint and a chat in my mother tongue! Spotted a Chilean looking isolated from conversation, and took the opportunity to speak some Spanish but oh my goddddd it was just awful after three weeks of italian. Couldn’t get the words out at all. Next week at home I’m watching Spanish series to prepare me for South America. Can’t believe how it’s affected my Spanish! Anyway, enjoyed my day in Milan and what felt like a scary and stressful time turned into quite a cool evening meeting people from all over the world.

When I asked the priest if there were any documents remaining he said “Non c’è nulla”, that there was absolutely nothing, and that anything that may remain will be in The Casa Madre in Rome. Been given an address - Via Bolcea 364 - so maybe I’ll be able to find more contact details and drop them an email. The priest also pointed out nonna’s quarter in a photograph of the original building. It was demolished and rebuilt on in the 70s.

There was only one photo of the Figlie Di Sant’Anna, and it was dated after nonna was born. It’s not improbable that the circled figure is nonna, but impossible to say. Chi sa...

Mum’s done some photoshopping and compared the features and shadows to a photo we have of nonna. She says no other face in this picture matches as well but who knows!

I ❤️ Malù! Named after this dessert because it looks like she’s dunked her face in it!

Made a dice with all the typical English greetings to introduce to the girls and play with. Then had quite a cute little stroll with Olivia and bought some Bacci Di Dame from a pasticceria. They’re little spherical disks with two halves stuck together with scrummy nocciola chocolate.

La Più Grande Notte Delle Chitarre after dinner. Electric guitar definitely not my thing - preferred the organ concert!! Watching men in tank tops scooch up next to each other, looking like they’re having a bone ain’t ma thing. Also, Brits are far “cooler” at gigs! No one was really bobbing about, just clapping slowly to strange parts of the music!

Felt slightly broody drying Anita and Olivia’s hair after they’d showered, but it was short lived because Anita told me my makeup was ugly and I should take it off 🙃 Brava, brava.

Ate at La Raviola Galante all together with Mariana and Stefano. Looooong set menu. First agnolotti was my favourite sooo meaty and tasty.

Went back again in the afternoon with the girls and watched a little show by a young circus act group. So good! Loved this little man!

Mariana couldn’t make it to the street fair but sent me a lovely message before my last sleep in Asti.

Sei dolcissima!

Grazie a te per le serate alle sagre, alla Douja, allo street wine... sei una ragazza molto simpatica con cui è bello passare il tempo e fare due chiacchiere! E' stato un piacere davvero! Neanche noi ti dimenticheremo e spero che se tornerai da queste parti prima o poi ti ricorderai di dircelo per salutarci e bere di nuovo un buon bicchiere di vino insieme! (almeno tu e stefano! 😛 )

Buon viaggio di ritorno!!!

Saluti di cuore da me e Stefano! Un abbraccio forte!

Said goodnight to the girls and got two massive hugs to match the two I got on arrival! Won’t pretend it’s been easy to look after them, but I’ve had some really rewarding moments and they’ve made me laugh every day.

I’ve really loved what I’ve seen of Piemonte and it’s people. They’re just so much more open than us, expressive and uninhibited, all qualities the Spanish have but with Italians, to me, its more warm and less intimidating - and also less sleazy! I’ve had countless conversations with strangers, fairly lengthy conversations, where they’ve been generally interested in what I’m saying, with no hint of awkwardness or irritation at my sometimes slow Italian! Every conversation is punctuated with some elaborate exclamation like “BRAVA!” or “FANTASTICO!”

Over the past four weeks I’ve been to a Palio festival, a food festival, done a wine tasting, been to two street fairs, cycled over vineyards, visited two places nonna called home and, most special of all, I’ve met my Italian relatives. What’s more, my Italian has improved, and I’ve worked in a B&B and au paired for the first time. Definitely feel like I’ve made the most out of my month here, but ciao for now Italia! A dopo! Next stop...SOUTH AMERICA!!