3 days left to get ready to depart on the first leg of 2018 travels. We have been busy indeed planning, ordering, and doing what needs to be done to move to Costa Rica until May
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We arrived in Costa Rica on 22 January. We took a 5:45am flight out of Austin, Texas with a connection thru Houston. Landed in San Jose about 11:30am and after renting a car headed out for Manuel Antonio. We traveled with Rusty, our Boston Terrier, and Coco, our Lagotto Romagnolo
Lunch stop on drive to Manuel Antonio
Our first stop is Byblos Resort, which we have been part owners in for 12 years. \240We are staying in Bungalow 3 which has a nice balcony over a stream that the dogs can sit out on and watch monkeys
Rusty watching the wildlife in jungle Bungalow 3 at Byblos Resort
Coco hit the hay early after a full travel day
Breakfast entertainment at Byblos Resort.
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Countdown to departure. Yet another inventory to be sure nothing has been forgotten. This time I realize we have no bug spray!
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Bags are packed and ready to go!
We just closed the dry duffel bags, and Davis has headed up to Byblos for a final 1/2 day of work.
The dogs were picked up at 5:50 am and because they apparently are special, they are riding up front instead of in the cages. \240Maybe at the end of road they put them in cages, I was a tad emotional saying goodbye!
I’m off to breakfast at the bus station for a final bit of Costa Rican cuisine.
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We arrived late last night in Entebbe, Uganda. Getting through the airport went smoothly, and it actually helped that we had not applied online for our Visa because that line was long. We walked right up to the agent in the Oops We Didn’t Apply Line, and $50 each later we were meeting our driver outside. Our drivers name was Davis!
We are staying a few nights here in Entebbe to get over the jet lag. We picked The Boma Hotel on the advice of our tour operator for our gorilla trekking at the end of our trip. It’s a short drive from the airport, and the road up at the end reminded me of some in Costa Rica. The guard who opened the gate did not, as he had a rifle of some sort slung over his shoulder. That kind of opened my eyes to the fact that I am indeed in a new place, and the adventure is getting real.
The walkway to reception was lit by lanterns which was perfect to set the mood for where we were arriving. . Checkin was quick, and they offered to make us something to eat, but we were just wanting a shower and bed after thirty plus hours of travel.
Our room is great. We have air conditioning, a bed with mosquito netting, and a beautiful bathroom.
The noises outside my room this morning are so loud that the air conditioning isn’t masking them. I brought ear plugs on the advice of an article I read that said the jungle noises are intense. It seemed silly given where that we live in Costa Rica and are awakened by howler monkeys most mornings. This, however, is a non stop concert of of birds and insects I presume, and I can see that it could cause a problem in safari camps.
It’s 8am here, and I agreed to wake the gorilla now so we can adjust to the time change. I know he didn’t sleep as well as I did, but a deals a deal...
After a nice breakfast at the Boma Hotel and a lovely chat with owner, Bernice, we set off to town by foot for miscellaneous errands. First stop was the bank to exchange US Dollars for Ugandan Shillings. Exchange we found was $1.00 equals 3,600 shilling.
Next stop was the electronics store to buy new electrical outlet adaptors. After the man in the store showed us his, we realized ours did the same thing, we just didn’t understand how to use them correctly.
Final stop was Africell where Davis got a SIM card for his unlocked cell phone so we are now connected even if we don’t have WiFi
We walked to all these points so now it was time for some lunch. Local cuisine by the water!
Breakfast buffet at The Boma Hotel
Breakfast at the Boma is served poolside, just like Byblos!
The chef making our lunch in a real wood burning oven - and cardboard.
Why yes, that is a margarita pizza, and that is chili sauce instead of pepper flakes to spice it up.
We passed a local meat market on our stroll
And a lovely time it was
We attended a AA meeting in the Children’s Park and met 3 new friends. Michael, Charles, and Hakeem were quite friendly and seemed happy to have some visitors. The meeting is generally just 3 people, one day a week, and two are newcomers.
After our meeting we started walking back to the hotel and found a cute little restaurant called Christina’s Kitchen. It looked much like a Soda Restaurant in Costa Rica, so we decided to forego the hotel dinner and give it a try. \240Our whole dinner cost us $7.50 including two bottled waters at 25 cents each.
We had the Local pan fried pork with Vegetable & Matoke (banana). The cook also gave us some pumpkin after chatting with Davis about some different varieties of vegetable and fruit she had. When Davis asked where he could wash his hands she went and got a pitcher and some liquid soap and poured water over his hands while he washed them. That was a first for even Davis!
When we returned home to our room we had a surprise waiting us!
My new temporary emotional support dog was sleeping in Davis’ cigar chair!
This pup, a cat, a cow, and some goats are the animals we have spotted so far.
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Starting the day with a Precision Air flight from Entebbe to Kilimanjaro. The Entebbe airport is a interesting place, to say the least.
Our driver pulled up at the entrance to the airport property, where we were required to get out of the van and walk thru a security checkpoint. On the other side awaited our driver, who then drove us to the front of the terminal. At the front of the terminal they checked passports, and yellow fever cards. Next was a security checkpoint where luggage was scanned and so were we. Yet another check of passports and yellow cards. . Now on to the Precision Air counter. At the Counter, our passports are checked and the lady hand writes out our boarding passes. Now on to actual Immigration where 2 ladies sit behind glass, one talking on her cell phone, while the other is texting and checking my passport at the same time. We are electronically fingerprinted and passports scanned and stamped.
Next stop - Duty Free Shopping where I see Haribo gummy bears! I come to my senses, and realize I didn’t fly all this way to eat gummy bears and continue browsing. I then hear someone calling Henley and look up to see the Precision Air Counter Representative who says she needs our passport and my credit card that I bought the tickets with to make a copy. Davis and I hand them over as she says she will be back soon with them. As soon as she walked away, the clock starts ticking and I am overtaken with panic. I’m sure the lady is the head of the all the people who have ever called and said they needed to fix my computer, sent me mail saying they had money for me, or whatever other scam is currently being run. I’m back at Immigration asking to get out because some lady took our passports and my credit card. They say I can’t leave without my passport, which tells me I must be speaking Swahili, cause they didn’t understand the lady has my passport. They actually told me to relax! I go sit down, and Davis leaves to find anyone who works for Precision Air. He’s composed, unlike his wife who is ready to down a bottle of anxiety medicine any minute. Where is that damn Emotional Support Dog now?. Finally, after what seems like and hour he comes back, looking oh so proud with passports and credit card in hand. He starts telling me that this sort of thing goes on all the time here and I hear Blah, Blah, Blah.
Now comes the boarding call to Gate 1. Once again, a security check. This time we do have to remove our hiking boots, thank God, as mine are starting to hurt. I am frisked because my artificial knees set off the metal detector and then proceed to where they check our handwritten boarding passes by ladies who are barefoot behind the counter.
After I am thru all of this I realize I forgot to go to the bathroom and ask to leave. They say to hurry as the plane is about to board. I scurry along and get back to find the same lady who took my passport saying Henley hurry, everyone is on board. I’m trying to get thru security, but the damn knees go off again. Davis is waiting and they finally let me thru and off we go scurrying across the tarmac to join the line of 20 or so people waiting to get go up the stairs to get on board.
The flight to Kilimanjaro was uneventful. We had to get Visas upon arrival and then go thru the immigration line. Somehow we managed to be just about the last people out from our flight, and we were happy to see our Good Earth driver and jeep waiting for us.
We had about a one hour drive to Arusha and our hotel.
Relatively uneventful all in all. I have made a new discovery today!
African Topo Chico!!
We are now surrounded by friends from our Dominical Group, and hit the road tomorrow for Safari!
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We started out the trip by meeting up with the our friends Jen, Jason, Doug, Carrie, (new friends) Amanda and Don. Jen and Amanda are the planners of this trip, so we have them to thank for arranging this part of our adventure.
Doug and Carrie
Not pictured are Lucas and Malcolm who are Jen and Jason’s teenage boys. A whole new perspective on things comes from asking their view on accommodations I am finding out.
We will be traveling in this safari jeep with Carrie and Doug most of the time, but may switch it up from time to time. George is our driver and he’s very experienced at getting around and finding the game.
Our first park is the Tarangire National Park.
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The drives have been long and dusty. We have seen so many different animals and had some amazing experiences. Our first day we started to see the Maasi Tribe.
The boys above are wearing black and have their faces painted black and white because they are the next boys to become senior warriors and be circumcised. This happens every 25 years and men and boys \240anywhere between age 13 and 25 all are circumcised together. There is no anesthesia given and they are to remain silent during the ceremony. The circumcision can take up to three months to heal and they wear the black during that time.
We visited a Maasi village during our safari and were treated to seeing their culture, preschool, and customs.
This is a typical home of the Maasi
Typical Maasi dress
Davis practicing the Maasi warrior jumping
Davis learning to throw the beginner spear
Preschool class , all of whom were thrilled to receive pencils we brought
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We are so busy, I find it hard to write. I will try to sum up Zanzibar before we head off on our 2nd Safari.
Zanzibar is such an amazing place. We stayed at a beautiful hotel right on the waterfront. Our room was the Freddie Mercury Room. Who knew, Freddie Mercury was born in ZanIbar. The mosquito netting is needed in Zanzibar. They weren’t bothering us, but you know what it’s like when one gets in your room and you’re trying to sleep!
Seating area in our room.
Breakfast was a great buffet which changes each day. We are on the balcony overlooking the city waking up each day.
Our first full day in ZanIbar was spent on scooters and mopeds with a beach destination in mind. We probably should have known it would take longer than expected!
Our biker group name is Black Back Jackals. I am Mama Gazelle and Davis is Third Eye. \240Everyone has names taken from an experience on the trip. \240You have to earn your name.
We spent about an hour at this lovely spot when Malcomb threw the chain on his dirt bike. Davis also had his shift lever stripped off the shaft, but they removed Malcomb’s shift lever and put it on Davis’ bike. We left that bike after waiting around for an hour and Malcomb drove Jen on her scooter.
The lady sitting here was a real character. We were all sitting in the shade against another building which she informed us was a mosque and we needed to take our shoes off. We all quickly moved off the shaded porch when the call to prayer came over the loud speaker and the men started to arrive. We huddled under this little bit of shade and drank lots of water. It wasn’t long before she realized we might have a few shillings to spare and she became quite demanding for juice and other things.
We rode a long way, and it wasn’t what you expect of a coastal ride. We were in search of a Hilton Resort. I was certain by the condition of the roads we were not going to find any such resort. I was wrong
Doubletree by Hilton Resort beach side restaurant. Worth the ride!
We ordered lunch, and ran to the water for a swim. Some of the most beautiful water I have ever seen. The temperature was perfect, and we were able to use the showers and dress again after a lovely lunch. We made it back before nightfall, which was good since a few people did not have operational headlights.
Jason and Jen during the breakdown wait
Jason and Lucas - notice shoes lines up outside of mosque where we had been shading ourselves.
Lunch at the Doubletree beachside Restaurant
The Mizingani Seafront Hotel is locates on the edge of Stone Town. There are great restaurants, and also loads of shopping.
Our balcony and room were located one floor above the the hotel sign
Fabulous Ethiopian food at this restaurant in Zanzibar and the setting in photo below was beautiful.
There was wonderful Indian food at Silk Route.
The tandori Chicken was very good
Silk Route was our final meal with the Black Back Jackals, and Mike from the meeting joined us.
Davis and I had our final meal in Tanzania at Taperia in Stone Town. My beef and melted Brie was a great treat before Safari life again.
We spent our other free day with most folks scuba diving and a few of us snorkeling.
Boat departing Zanzibar for diving and snorkeling
Amanda and I were teamed up for snorkeling. Due to ear problems last time I went, I didn’t want to risk ruining my trip when they had great snorkeling too.
Davis had a great time scuba diving
Our Zanzibar dive boat
Stone Town had some great shopping, as I mentioned before. Winding around on the narrow streets you can become lost in the maze of shops
High walls with narrow streets in Stone Town
Jen and Amanda lead the way, cheating with navigation on their phones. I was at their mercy as I didn’t have that luxury.
We found our shop after much searching - Stone Town Records where we were in search of shirts. Turned out it was an actual recording studio!
Stone Town Records rooftop
Street photo Stone Town
Street photo Stone town
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Rabbit Rabbit. Hard to believe it’s the first of March. Time is passing quickly on our trip. While some days are very long drives, like yesterday, there \240is always something interesting along the way.
We transferred from Entebbe to Murchison Falls National Park yesterday. The drive in the beginning was just through Entebbe, and then Kampala. Traffic was heavy, and the crowds of people seemed never ending. There are so many motorcycles just sitting lined up with people waiting to drive people where they need to go. It is a form of a taxi here. Not very safe, as I have not seen a helmet yet.
Another source of transportation are vans that are packed full of people. They stop and people get in and people get out. I can’t imagine the smell and the heat in them, so you won’t see a picture of me hanging out the window of one.
Mama Malaika and babyN
Here is one
They are bumper to bumper here and people come to windows and sell things.
We tried some roasted banana from this lady.
They tasted pretty good, and more importantly, I didn’t die.
Some of the drive was boring, so I started a new collection!
Flu mask man
Pee Wee Herman wanna be
Two mannequins meeting
Going to the Club Man.
Notice the children safely playing under the table near the edge of the road in this picture.
I call it - Mannequins of Uganda. I might continue the project and expand to other countries, but as I said, I was bored.
After we got thru the cities we started to see rural Uganda. There were many roadside markets for food. It appears there is no shortage of food in this area. \240The problem is everyone is growing the same thing, so too many bananas, tomatoes, potatoes and everyone is trying to sell the same thing.
Marketplace
My favorite sweet potatoes and yucca!
Motorcycles that are used as taxies home after shopping in the market
We arrived after a few hours drive at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. This was the beginning of what was supposed to be a few hours of Rhino trekking. We lucked out, and two mothers and their youngsters were within very close proximity to where we parked.
Mama Layolo and baby Madam
Mama Malaika and baby Noelle
Noelle seemed quite taken with us for a few scarey moments. Our guide was quick to move us on as we didn’t want Mama to become angry with us
Davis wandering off while we are Rhino trekking. I’ll admit I was a bit of a nag when he kept taking photos while the guide was saying we needed to quietly and quickly move back!
Rhino trekking guide finding us the always monitored rhinos. They talk on radios very quietly to find the positions of the different rhinos.
Seriously close to a rhino!
And a baby
This was an amazing experience. This sanctuary may be the only chance Uganda has of repopulating the rhino. The mothers are giving birth younger and with less time in between births than usual in this sanctuary.
After a nice lunch at the sanctuary we headed off towards our lodge in Murchison Falls National Park
We had to hurry on our drive thru the park as we needed to catch to last ferry to our safari lodge
Ferry loading for Paraa Safari Lodge
Globe at the ferry landing shows where we are in case you wondered
Crossing the Nile River with the moon above
Elephant greeting on the other side
I’m going to like it here!
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I find it hard to write about our drive this morning. Words can’t really describe the lifestyles we have seen. People live in small huts with no elective or plumbing. There are no windows, just a padlocked metal or steel door that is opened during the day, but I assume closed and locked at at night.
We have been driving for hours on a rough, wet, muddy road. It’s so hard to imagine what day to day life is like here.
The yellow jugs are for water. You see young children walking to the town well and carrying the jugs back on their heads.
Muddy roads like this went on for hours.
There are so many children! \240You see them walking to and from school, quite young, and some alone. We even saw toddlers with hoes in fields.
The school children all look quite happy, and are playing to and from school. Uniforms are clean and they look well cared for. Girls and boys in Uganda who are young usually have shaved heads.
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We completed our gorilla tracking yesterday. My body aches in places I had forgotten I had. I have climbed down a mountain, trekked through dense forest, and climbed back up. A total of almost 10 miles of difficult terrain, all with help of a porter who supported me throughout the journey. Without him, I could still be sitting down with the gorillas, learning to live as they do until I died, which probably would have been pretty quickly.
The reason I am trying to explain how difficult this was for me is because all along the way, except in the forest, were the village children running to and from school. Most of these very young children were wearing no shoes, on a very rough road and on their way home in soaking wet clothes when the afternoon rains set in. . I, on the other hand, \240stayed dry and warm in my rain poncho and struggled for for each uphill breath up the mountain. The life here is something I will not soon forget. \240
The drive to our lodge was, at the end, 20 miles of mud and rough road up the mountains. While it was beautiful, those who know me would know how terrified I was the whole way.
Gorillas in the mist photo
Gorillas in the mist photo
Our lodging was was very nice and meals were very good.
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