And we’re off!

1
710 Washington Rd, Grosse Pointe, MI 48230, USA

Starting mileage: \240119482

Off we go at 12:35 pm!

Staying at Brady’s’ “Scotch Bar” cottage In Lawton.

Breakfast at Scotch Bar with Frank, Cindy, Julie, Drew, Hollis and Tillie the Dog. \240Mass at St. Mary’s in Paw Paw. \240Pouring rain.

Miles: \240119,194.

On the road to Oak Park at 12:05 pm.

Hollis, age 2, was playing with toy golf clubs. \240He had remarkably good moves and concentration!

Joan is driving in, predictably, driving rain. \240Electric road sign warned of heavy rain (no kidding). \240I’ve never seen that warning before.

On the road to Oak Park. \240Last rain we will \240have for about a month.

Arrived at Betsy and Pat’s house about 2:15 central time. \240Flash flood warning in Chicago.

Dinner celebrating Joan’s birthday with Pat, Gus, Joan and me at Citrine Cafe in Oak Park. \240(Betsy and Charlie were in Ann Arbor at Margaret Crandall’s home for Charlie’s Barcelona soccer camp.) Home at 9:00. \240Excellent dinner, including octopus as an appetizer. Record rain in Chicago today.

We talked about the visit to Bend. \240Pat texted a friend, who said to avoid the Sands Hotel, which I’d booked. \240So I changed it to the Cascade Lodge.

At Betsy and Patrick’s house. \240We walked with Patrick and Gus to Fairgrounds Coffee & Tea restaurant on Lake Street for breakfast \240Pat left for home before we did to take a work call. \240Oak Park has so many interesting houses. \240Gus and I talked about the architecture of the houses. \240I told Gus some family history of my greatgrandparents Cliff living on the farm in Minnesota. \240Gus listens well.

Beautiful hot, sunny day.

Joan, Gus, and I went grocery shopping at Peet’s, a great grocery store. \240Later, we \240all went to the bookstore, The Book Table, an independent bookstore on Lake Street that is wonderful. \240Then came home. \240Oslo (Ozzie) has stopped barking at me and seems to have accepted me. Joan, Pat, and I sat in the backyard reading, a treat. \240I’m reading the late Hilary Mantel’s autobiography. \240Pat is making dinner, chicken tenders marinated in white miso sauce.

Joan’s birthday! \240Hot, sunny day. After breakfast Joan, Pat, Gus, Joan and I strolled around Oak Park, which has so many interesting homes and landscaping.

Here are some photos of Pat and Betsy’s house.

Joan’s birthday cake!

After dinner we watched The Great British Baking Show, then went to Taylor Park to watch fireworks in neighboring towns. \240Warm, clear evening. A good day for Joan’s birthday.

Up at 6:30. \240Pat has an early doctor’s appointment, so we stayed with Gus and Oslo. \240Packing the car. \240Sunny and hot. \240Forecast for Sioux Falls is sunny and cooler. Storms between here and there.

Packed and off by about 9:30. \240Mileage 119,830.

Arrived at hotel (very sketchy) in Sioux Falls at7:00 pm local time. Located on Cliff Ave., a major truck road. \240I90 mostly straight through farmland most of the way. \240Miles of windmills. \240Clear and dry, other than some light showers. \240Temperature in the low 70’s.

Miles: \240120,399

Dinner at Gilberto’s No. 1, which turns out to be Mexican fast food.

The wagon master and our cargo

The motel on Cliff Avenue in Sioux Falls

Cliff Avenue

Leave Sioux Falls after good basic breakfast, around 8:30. \240The motel was very quiet, despite being on a truck route.

The patrons at the motel breakfast brought to mind the “forgotten people” of America, as political writers have described.

Miles of road construction on I90.

Easy drive (80 mph limit in South Dakota!). \240The Badlands are startling and gorgeous. \240This afternoon we drove about 20 miles on dusty gravel roads, so the back of the car looks like a butterscotch milk shake was poired on it. \240We saw bison and, I think, antelope as well, in addition to lots of prairie dogs. We are spending two nights in Interior, SD, population 97. \240Dinner at the sole restaurant reminded me that competition is good, as did the $20 bottle of South Dakota wine at our motel.

At one point I enjoyed the peace of just looking at a green hillside.

Sculpture Park

Wall Drugs signs all along I90

Not obvious why Europeans moved here

We took the Castle Trail, about 4 miles

Pondering which way to go

Breakfast at motel. \240Mileage on car: \240120,750. \240Left motel at 9:45.

We stopped at the visitor center. \240The staff is very friendly and very patient Joan asked about rattlesnakes, and the ranger assured us that out of hundreds of thousands ov visitors last year, only one snakebite was reported.

We hiked four miles on the Medicine Root and another trail. \240Lovely day for a hike. \240The eroded rock formations made me think of faces, towns on hills, condo developments, cathedrals, forts, and Egyptian carvings of lions. \240A Western Meadowlark seemed to join us for awhile. \240Great patches made up of small common sunflowers. \240Joan was adept at following the hiking paths, which weren’t as well marked as the Camino routes in Spain.

Photos can’t capture the majesty of the rock walls.

Natura naturans

Joan and a patch of sunflowers

Second dinner in Interior. \240The only alternative to the bar where we had dinner last night.

Sunset, Interior, South Dakota

Left Interior SD about 10:00. \240Another sunny, cool day. \240The motel owner told us it’s usually very hot and dry this time of year, and the fields we see as rich green are normally brown. \240So we got lucky with the weather.

Verdict on the motel: \240convenient to Badlands National Park, friendly people (mother and adult son own it), good breakfast. \240Facility leaves a lot to be desired.

Odometer in the morning: \240 \240120,772

We stopped (at my recommendation) to visit Wall Drugs briefly. \240 It’s larger than I recalled. \240So are many of the visitors seemed our age or older.. \240This is some kind of weekend festival, so it was crowded. \240I washed gravel-road dust off the car ar a self-serve car wash. \240The water wand acted like a rocket when I pulled the trigger.

More I90, then hours of two-lane roads through rolling farmland to Baker, Montana, at about 3:30. \240Nice hotel, like The Four Seasons compared to the past two nights.

John and Melinda had the room next to hours. \240They drove us back to Marmath, North Dakota. \240We had a very nice steak dinner wit Melinda, John, and Tyler Lyson (who is in charge of the dig, and who grew up in Marmath), and two of the people working on the dig.

The long and unwinding road

Marmath town jail until the 50’s

Odometer 121,055

Breakfast with John and Melinda. \240Left \240 motel for Dino Dig at 7:30.

The dig experience was remarkable. \240First we went to tho paleontology worshop that Tyler Lyson runs. \240There his tem of volunteers, mostly, sorts and painstakingly removes debris from fossils.

I commented to Melinda that the Denver Natural History Museum is very fortunate to have Tyler on its staff. \240He seems to have a magnetic personality that must be a great help to fundraising, and she agreed. \240Tyler said the museum has about 1,000 volunteers.

Then we drove to the site of his current fossil project. \240We climbed a steep path on a rock formation to view the fossil find, which won’t be announced for a few more days.

After that Tyler took us to another site which is one of a handful of places on Earth where you can touch the soil deposited in the Great Extinction, about 66 million years ago. \240I declined to climb down into the valley, but Joan and the others climbed down.

We drove on to Billings, Montana, where we’re staying tonight. Stunning scenery. \240We stopped in Baker and had a quick lunch with John and Melinda.

Part of the dig site

Tyler explains what we’re seeing

About 66 million years old

The dig site, on the craggy rise

The place where you can touch deposits from the Great Extinction period

Looking for tiny fossils

Billings, Montana

Billings, Montana

Left Billings about 10:30, after I spent about an hour seeking help with my malfunctioning CPAP. \240Odometer 121,389.

Stoped in Laurel at the WalMart (huge and brand-new) for a device to download photos from Joan’s camera to her MacBook. \240Laurel and Billings both seem to be experiencing a building boom. \240Then onto highway 212 to Red Lodge. \240Shane Rothman recommends this route (I think) over the mountains. \240He didn’t describe the drive in detail. \240Just as well.

Joan drove through the mountains. Stunning. \240Reminds me that heights make me uncomfortable and that I like guardrails. \240Beartooth \240Pass elevation: \24010,987 feet. Nearly constant sharp turn and switchbacks. \240We took lots of photos. \240We stopped in Cooke City, voted “coolest town in America” in 2012. \240Joan ordered smoked trout, which was delicious. \240I had tomato soup, also delicious.

We entered Yellowstone be the northeast entrance and drove generally south. \240Discovered that cell phones and GPS don’t work in the park. \240Beautiful driving, punctuated by heavy construction and bison sightings. \240It took longer that we expected to drive the length of Yellowstone, so we arrived at The Hostel in Teton Village about 10:30.

Driving through Teton National Park on the way to Jackson was amazing, maybe even more striking than Yellowstone.

Laurel, Montana, on our way to visit Wall Drugs

Beartooth Pass

Switchback City (Beartooth Pass)

Skiing in July

Stunningly blue sky

Rain in the distance

Snow remaining in July

Grand Teton

Grand Teton

Smoked trout in Cooke City, afterBeartooth Pass

Skiers

No one honked at the bison to move. \240Wise restraint.

Up at 7:30 to move the car to the guest parking lot. Breakfast at the Mangy Moose. \240Mary Kay Turner called and invited us to lunch with John and her at the Wort Hotel in Jackson. \240Very pleasant. \240The Turners operate Triangle X Ranch, which has been in John’s family for almost a century. \240They have about 70 employees and 250 horses and mules. \240 Mary Kay and John are kind, family-first people, and devout Catholics.

After lunch we went to a medical supply company in Jackson Hole to ask about my CPAP, which has been malfunctioning. \240The owner spent a good deal of time with us explaining what might be wrong. \240He also showed amazing photos of the snow last winter, with his dogs walking on his roof. \240When we went back to the room, the CPAP worked perfectly with the new water reservoir I bought.

We did some shopping (Jackson Hole is stuffed with good stores) and then walked to a park at the foot of Snow King Mountain to read in the shade.

We went to Shane Rothman and Whitney s home for pizza. \240Their home is the highest residence in Jackson Hole,at the top of Snow King, \240with a 30-mile vista. \240They have done a great deal of improvement and gardening. \240We had a very nice time with them.

Back to Teton Village and bed.

Odometer 121,693

Cheery note in our room

Breakfast

Hang gliders above the mountain

Wort Hotel, Jackson Hole, where we met John and Mary Kay Turner for lunch

Wildlife

Excellent breakfast at The Mangy Moose

Up at 8:00. \240Breakfast at the Mangy Moose. \240Another beautiful morning. \240On the road to Jenny Lake about 10:00. \240Odometer 122,722.

We found a parking place at the Jenny Lake visitors center, probably a miracle. \240Joan and I walked more than 4 miles around the lake on a path that sometimes was challenging but mostly even. \240Joan observed that Jenny Lake was as blue as the sky. \240I haven’t felt so stiff in a long time.

After we returned to the hostel, we cleaned up, took an Aleve, and had a very good dinner at the Mangy Moose (again). \240The server was very good. After the afternoon traffic Jan leaving Jackson Hole, we couldn’t face driving somewhere else for dinner.

We capped off the evening by doing laundry ($7 for one load) in the hostel basement. \240We had some bro’s for company. \240They seemed nice.

Joan commented to the office that the place seems very quiet. \240Apparently that’s not the case in the winter season.

Grand Teton

Tetons

Jenny Lake

Willow sculpture in Jackson Hole

Indian Paintbrush?

Breakfast at the Mangy Moose at 9:15. \240Odometer 121,790.

Visited Kathryn Turner’s gallery. \240Wonderful watercolors. \240We bought a print and stationery. \240KatTurner is Frank Brady’s niece and goddaughter. \240Delightful woman, and seems to be doing a good business.

We drove north through Grand Teton National Park, into Yellowstone through the south entrance to Canyon Village. \240The first night is in Canyon Lodge in a nice room. \240We’ll switch to a cabin for the next two nights.

Dinner involved two appetizers. \240Good server, food not so good (local wines, not what their names suggested).

She’s gonna blow!

There she goes!

Got underway about 10:00 to Old Faithful. \240Odometer 121,930. \240Beautiful sunny cool morning. \240Joan is driving. \240We’re counting the Subarus we encounter.

Lunch at Old Faithful Lodge. \240Amazing fields of hot springs on the road in. Witnessed Old Faithful eruption, then walked around the paths.

While we were changing from shoes to boots in the Old Faithful parking lot, what I think was a “dust devil” picked Joan’s floppy hat off her head, and we both got dust in our mouths. Fortunately a man saw the hat being blown over a tree about 50 feet away and retrieved it for Joan.

It turns out that Maura is in Idaho camping with a friend, so we hoped to get together. \240Unfortunately the car that Maura’s friend rented blew a tire, so they had to go to Jackson to get a new tire. \240By the time they got to Jackson, the tire store was closed, so they had to stay there overnight. \240Now we hope to meet Maura and her friend early tomorrow at the Old Faithful Lodge for breakfast.

At cafeteria-style dinner, Joan and I agreed that, especially for the price, the resort could do somewhat better in WiFi connectivity, mobile phone connectivity, food service, room cleanliness (the floor underneath the desk was dusty), and outside signage and directions. \240 The staff seems nice, though.

We topped 122,000 miles on the car today.

Path around Old Faithful

Boiling thermal pool

Flawless tree pose

Old Faithful steaming in the early morning

We arranged to meet Maura at 7:30 am at old Faithful Lodge (wrong name; it’s the Old Faithful Inn). \240We got up at 5:30. \240Another cloudless sky. Odometer 122,015. \240 just as we started to leave the parking lot at Canyon Lodge, Maura texted that they had taken a wrong turn and would be an hour late. \240We drove to Old Faithful Inn. \240The drive was stunning, with the sun coming up and steam from the hot springs. \240We discovered that there’s no WiFi at the Old Faithful Inn, so we had difficulty reaching Maura, but finally did.

Maura met us with her boyfriend, Noah. It was so good to be wit Maura after several months. \240We miss her!

Noah seems to be a nice guy. \240Maura said he plans to move to New York City.

After they left Old Faithful, Joan I continued east toWest tThumb, then north to the fishing bridge nearby . \240We went to the visitors center amphitheater for Mass, celebrated by a young priest from India.

Old Faithful Inn lobby

Bison and foolhardy photographer. \240(A few days later we read a news item about a bison goring a woman near here.)

Left Canyon Lodge at 10:30. \240Odometer 122,130.

We left Yellowstone by the west exit, then on to Anaconda, MT. \240Very long, steep hills on the way. \240Entirely different t landscape from earlier in our trip: \240hilly ranch country. \240We stopped in Butte for lunch. \240Decided to stay in our reserved room at the Lakehouse on, so it says, Georgetown Lake, about ten miles west of Anaconda, rather than pay a late cancellation fee.

Dinner at Lakehouse. \240Joan had a chicken wrap. \240I had the prime rib special. \240Not bad.

Yellowstone

Mountains rimming the horizon

Overnight on July 16-17, Anaconda

Yellowstone Lodge

Our room in Anaconda

Mass in Yellowstone

Left Anaconda at7:00 for Missoula. \240Odometer 122,359. \240Breakfast at Finn’s Hotel in Missoula, right on the river. \240Today is the first overcast morning we’ve had. \240We arrived at 2:30 local time. \240Then on to Spokane.

View from Finn’s restaurant in Missoula

Old Faithful between eruptions

At Finn’s restaurant in Missoula, on our way to Spokane

Woke up at 7:30, Christie and Joan went for a 6-mile walk. \240I stayed back, reading about dinosaur paleontology in The National Geographic. \240When Joan and \240Christie returned all four of us went to Lavia Nails for manicures and pedicures.

Yet another day of perfectly blue skies.

This morning Joan read in the news that a woman was gored by a bison near Lake Lodge, which we visited in Yellowstone last Saturday afternoon. \240We saw then a few bison and a few visitors who seemed too close to each other.

Dinner at Versalia Pizza in Spokane, near the River. \240Very good thin-crust pizza. \240Then some excellent ice cream and a drive through Spokane, a very pretty city.

Mani pedis in Spokane

Up about 7:30. \240High today forecast to be 94. \240Clear sky. \240Joan and Christie went for a walk.

We drove to Christie’s condo on Lake Pend Oreille. Christie drove us in her boat for about two hours; gorgeous lake. \240We came back to Spokane and had very good take-out. \240 Very good conversation.

Left Christie and Katie (and Willie the dog) about 7:15 Pacific time. \240Odometer 122,650. \240Sunny, hot day, \240We had a good visit with Quernas.

On to McCall, Idaho. \240Stunningly beautiful countryside. Just after we entered Idaho, we encountered a great prospect from a considerable height. \240Then we drove east \240through the Nez Perce \240reservation.

Arrived at the Nordic Innin McCall at 2:15 Mountain time. \240Nice room.

Maddy’s sort-of step-grandmother hosted a party at her home on the other side of Payette Lake. \240Casual party, fun, great food (which Maddy’s family apparently prepared). \240We met Maddy’s parents, Ray and Helen Stevenson, and many family members. \240Jack Couzens piloted a pontoon boat across the lake, which is mostly bordered by federal land and is undeveloped. \240Helen’s family is in the sheep raising business. \240Ray is a real estate developer.

After the party Jack piloted us back to the dock. \240Joan’s family gathered for a drink.

Along the Salmon River

Site of the rehearsal dinner

Our motel in McCall, Idaho

2
ATM (Maverik Country Store)

Left Nordic Inn for breakfast at 6 Three 4 coffee bar and restaurant. \240Avocado toast, delicious. \240The we walked down 3rd so I could get some sandals at McCall Sports.

We walked toward the lake. \240Tonight’s rehearsal dinner will be at the Hotel McCall on the water.

Gelato at a food truck with Margaret and Carol, then shopping.

Rehearsal dinner at the Hoel McCall. We walked there, stopping at the condo that Brian, Pat, and Betsy rented. \240Joan and I were seated next to Maddy’s brother JT and his spouse, Sanjay. Then to the McCall Golf Club where there was a party for Maddy’s and Fred’s friends. \240We met Brian, Pat, and Betsy there. \240Then back to the Nordic Inn.

The old McCall Jail

Up at 9:30. \240Breakfast with Brian, Betsy, and Patrick at The Cutwater at the Shore Lodge. \240Yet another perfectly clear day.

Following breakfast, Pat and Betsy went kayaking, Brian went to join his cousins at the beach, and I went for a nap, since I didn’t sleep well last night. Forecast temperature for the outdoor wedding is about 95. \240Got a fire weather watch during the night for Monday for this area from the National Weather Service.

The wedding was at 5:00 at Helen and Ray’s lake home, which is one of three contiguous lots owned by members of Helen’s family for almost a century. In back of their 1926 log home they added a temporary deck about 80 by 100, big enough to accommodate tables for 280 or so guests, a very good band, two bars, a seating area overlooking the lake, and a dance floor. \240There was the outline of a canopy with plenty of openings to the sky. \240We heard later that the builders took 12 days to assemble the deck.

There were drinks on the lawn sloping down to the shore. \240They had a wedding planner and her staff, a man who appeared to be in charge of the event, a photographer, and a videographer with a drone.

The wedding was on the lawn facing the lake. \240The Stevensons had parasols and fans for the guests. \240Maddy’s Uncle Brad, the governor of Idaho, officiated. \240His security detail was there but inconspicuous.

Maddy looked stunning in her gown. \240The groom and groomsmen \240arrived on a vintage cabin cruiser. \240Maddy and Fred are a handsome couple. \240Fred’s brothers gave very heartfelt toasts.

Beautiful sunset over Payette Lake. \240We stayed and danced until 11:00 to the band from Salt Lake City.

On the shore of Big Payette Lake

Breakfast

Prepared for the ceremony

Hot and sunny. \240Maddy’s parents thoughtfully provided parasols.

Sunset after the wedding

The morning after a great wedding celebration. \240Again, sun and cool temperature. Overcast sky for the first time on our trip, but no rain.

We went to 9:00 Mass at Our Lady of the Lake church. \240Very nicely done small church, nearly full. \240Difficult to understand celebrant, so ambiguous message.

Lunch at Foglifter, then to the condo, 1414 Dawson in McCall. \240 Joan and I stayed there with Marantettes. \240We had a drink on the porch, then met Melinda and John for dinner at Bistro45.

We got there too late, after the owner, Eric, had closed the register. \240But he gave us free bottles of water and then a bottle of red wine and glasses. \240We had a conversation with him about McCall, his restaurant, and his career. \240It was fun. \240He mentioned that McCall has a population of about 4,000 but the local merchants estimated that visitors brought the total to 40,000 over the weekend.

Christie, Katie , Willy the dog, Joan and I

Our condo in McCall

Up about 9:00. \240Another beautiful day.slight overcast.

John and Larry played golf. \240I walked into town with Joan,Carol, Margaret, and Melinda. \240Service in the stores couldn’t be more helpful. \240Patrick texted to ask if we had a good beach day yesterday. \240I responded that we had become a roving band of consumers.

Lunch at Salmon River Brewery. \240Long wait for a table, so we played darts. \240Fun, lack of skill aside.

John arranged for canoes and kayaks. \240I elected to stay ashore.

Dinner at Lardo Grille and Saloon with Marantettes, John and Melinda, Margaret, Maddy and Fred, Matt, and Matt’s friend Laurie.

Left condo, picked up Margaret at her motel, and met Melinda and John at 9:30. \240On to Backwoods Adventures McCall for kayaking and canoeing. \240More perfect weather, a bit cooler than yesterday. \240The others set out a little after 10:00. \240I stayed behind and listened to podcasts and watching butterflies on the shore of Big Payette Lake in the sun.

The owner of Backwoods Adventures McCall has an interesting life. \240In the summer she operates this business. \240Then she goes to Greece, where she operates a tour business. \240From Greece she returns to her home in Bozeman, Montana, until the next summer.

Joan, Margaret, Melinda and John had a wonderful time, and so did I.

We met for lunch at the Alpine Bakery, then shopped at Albertson’s for dinner preparations.

Maddy’s mother, Helen, and Helen’s sisters Theresa and Margaret came to the condo for dinner. \240We had a relaxed and enjoyable dinner. \240Maddy’s family has been very welcoming.

Up to see Larry and Carol off at 7:15. \240Overcast for the second time in this trip.

Left the condo about 9:10. \240Odometer 122,924.

Hours of two-lane well-paved roads through pine forests, then, suddenly, broad valleys, then spectacular high desert landscape unlike anything we’ve seen so far on our trip.

Arrived at our motel at4:30 local time. \240Not a great motel, but acceptable for the price.

Dinner at Deschutes Brewery, then we walked around downtown. \240Dessert at a gelato store. \240Still a great town, but now it’s more expensive than Grosse Pointe.

High desert, eastern Oregon

Bend, Oregon

Ceiling of our room at the Cascade Lodge in Bend

Left Cascade motel at 7:55 for Sparrow Bakery to stock up on their excellent Ocean Rolls and excellent breakfast sandwiches. Odometer 123,300. \240Smoky haze, very noticeable, from Canadian wildfires.

Today is Patrick’s 48th birthday!

We detoured through Crater Lake National Park. \240 We followed the same general route we took with Betsy and Pat for Marni and Brian’s wedding. \240Crater lake is extremely blue, unspoiled, and silent. \240We took, again, lots of photos.

The drive south was on very good two-lane roads with not too much traffic and few road repairs. \240Lots of curves, fun to drive. \240As soon as we crossed into California, the landscape turned to lush green farms. \240Mt. Shasta is astounding in its majesty, still snow capped. Some rolling vistas reminded me of paintings I’ve seen, only now in real life.

Joan was driving. As soon as we reached I-80, traffic picked up, even though we were going west toward San Francisco, not east with rush-hour home bound traffic.

We arrived at Marni and Brian’s about 7:30. \240We took luggage inside, cleaned up, and went to dinner at Juanita and Maude’s restaurant.

Sparrow Bakery, Bend

High desert landscape

Crater Lake, Oregon

Crater Lake

Shore of Crater Lake

I woke up around 9:00, Joan a bit earlier. Elven greeted us with happy squeaks. \240Another day of perfectly blue skies. \240Joan and Brian and I took Elven for a walk.

We went to see the most recent installment of “ Mission Impossible” at an amazing AMC theater.

Brian ordered excellent Detroit style pizza for dinner. \240Marni and I sang karaoke.

The deck of Marni and Brian’s home

Angels Window, Grand Canyon

Angels Window

Up around 8:30. \240Another perfect California day. \240Diana Walters and her daughters and her brother peter came to visit Marni and Brian. \240We all went to breakfast at Saul’s then to Elven’s dog park. Brian ran into a man who also went to UDJHS.

We returned to Brian and Marni’s. \240Then Brian and I went to Amoeba Records. \240I bought albums by Junior Walker and the All Stars and Surrealistic Pillow by the Jefferson Airplane.

At the dog park, Berkeley

Looking up from couch in Marni and Brian’s yard

Joan and I walked to 8:00 Mass at St. MaryMagdalen Church. \240Good sermon about enjoying life. \240Welcoming congregation.

Of course, a lovely day for a walk.

Frances and Ella Walters in good form. \240They made a “tree house” with blankets in a tree in the garden.

We all went to Pegasus Books, then to a crystals shop. \240Came home and the girls had a dance party.

Indian take-out dinner. \240Very good.

St. Mary Magdalen Church, Berkeley

Reading in the shade on the patio

Another stunning day. \240We got up about 7:30 and had a relaxed breakfast and conversation with Brian.

Brian drove Diana and her daughters to the airport. \240When he returned we had lunch, then drove to the museum of World War II on the home front highlighting the role of women workers in wartime industry. \240The museum is in Richmond, on the site of a Ford assembly plant converted into a Jeep factory during the war and a Kaiser \240shipbuilding complex that at its peak turned out a Victory ship every day.

We came home and cleaned up, then took an Uber into San Francisco for dinner with Marni’s friend KayCee at Front Porch. \240Tasty food, very good service. \240Brian ordered an Uber for us. \240We sat in what was a coronavirus outdoors table in a little enclosure on the street. \240Private, but with a good view of the neighborhood and people passing by.

Brian is excited about an offer he received for the freelance reading of submissions to a film production company.

Signature cocktail at Back Porch

Moon over Berkeley

The third overcast sky of the trip.

We met our trainer, Kyle Ranucci, at Sam’s Log Cabin for breakfast. \240We had many sessions via FaceTime with Kyle, who is Brian and Marni’s trainer, but we had never met him in person.

After breakfast we set out for Muir Woods, about a 45 minute drive, the final 15 minutes a series of dizzying switchbacks. \240The redwood forest is stunning. \240We went to the place where Marni and Brian made their wedding vows. \240In parts of the woods silence is encouraged. \240Even elsewhere most people spoke quietly.

We left Muir Woods, stopped for an excellent hamburger, stopped at a nice bookstore, then came home and we all napped. \240Brian ordered Thai food for dinner.

Muir Woods

Redwoods

Overcast, foggy day. \240After breakfast, we played with Elven, and left abo ut 9:45. Odometer 123,820.

Today marks our turn toward home.

Long dull drive to Barstow, as we expected. \240The desert is just flat and hot, but not as hot as we’d expected.

Arrived at the California Inn at 6:00. \240Temperature 100 degrees.

Dinner at the Italian restaurant across the street. \240Not bad.

Desert

California agriculture

Stairway down to Transept Trail, North Rim

Beautiful desert morning. \240After breakfast we left for the Grand Canyon at &:45. \240Odometer 124,253.

I didn’t taken any photos of Las Vegas as we drove through on the freeway. \240Nothing visible from the road had any semblance of charm. \240All I thought of was people losing money. \240Doesn’t sound like fun.

Stunning drive between Las Vegas and Utah. \240Utterly intimidating huge rock formations seeming to press in on the road.

We stopped at Jacob Lake Inn, which is on the way to the North Rim. \240From Jacob Lake a beautiful winding road leads to the North Rim.

Patio outside the dining room at the Lodge

We reached the North Rim of the Grand Canyon at 5:00 local time. \240Sunny, light breeze, temperature in the 70’s. \240I’ve been telling Joan about my unforgettable one-day visit to the Grand Canyon on my way to San Diego in 1970. \240This visit does not disappoint.

Very good white-tablecloth dinner at the Grand Canyon Lodge. \240Good drinks and generous pours.

The road to Vegas

No idea what this brilliant light was

Sunset from dining room at the Lodge

Walked to the Lodge for breakfast at 8:15. Elevation 8,270 feet. \240Odometer 124,674.

It’s remarkable to me that on the patios overlooking the Grand Canyon, visitors speak quietly or not at all, as if in awe of what they see.

Started on Transept Trail at 10:30. \240Returned to Lodge on Bridal Path trail. \240Total hike almost four miles. \240Lovely.

Because we couldn’t extend our stay at the North Rim Lodge, we left for our reservation at Jacob Lake Inn, about 90 minutes lovely drive. \240On the way we saw smoke from a grassfire and a helicopter carrying a bucket. \240We mentioned this when we checked into Lacob Lake Inn, and the woman at the desk explained that it was a controlled burn.

Jacob Lake Inn has been in the Bowman family for 100 years. \240It’s like nothing else we’ve encountered. \240At first I was concerned that it was bizarre, but we enjoyed a good dinner and god service at the restaurant. \240We returned to our cabin and watched the stars come out.

This part of Arizona does not go on dailight savings time. So it’s on Mountain time. \240We don’t know exactly what time it is, except that it’s an hour later than our phones and watches show.

Dining room at the Lodge

Patio at Grand Canyon Lodge

Night sky over Jacob Lake Inn

Breakfast at 7:15. \240Brilliant sunshine. \240Sat next to a couple and their daughters from Denver and their in-laws from Phoenix. \240One of their daughters rides dressage.

Did hand wash, then set out to return to the North Rim about 9:00. \240Odometer 124,719.

On the road to Point Royal trailhead. \240Mostly very narrow two-lane roads. \240Driver can’t look at the scenery for more than a split second without starting to drift out of the lane.

Stopped at Point Royal, which a hiking guide strongly recommended visiting. \240Elevation 7,880. \240One-mile walk in paved trail to glorious outlooks, including Angels’ Window, one of the few natural arches in the park. \240The n we returned to the North Rim Lodge and sat in the sun for a bit gazing at the canyon. \240(A few days later we read about a teenager who fell 200 feet from this site and had to be rescued.)

On the road back to Jacob Lake Inn, we saw smoke to our east from what looked to us like a big fire in the canyon, but nobody mentioned it, so it must have been a planned burn.

I’ve enjoyed listening the different accents of other visitors to the North Rim: \240German Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, and often French. \240I’ve also enjoyed the American accents, east coast, southern, Californian, and midwestern.

Our room, Jacob Lake Inn

Wotan’s Throne

Sitting room, Grand Canyon Lodge

Planned fire east of Jacob Lake

Planned fire east of Jacob Lake

Jacob Lake Inn

Breakfast at 6:45, then off to Mass in Kenab, 45 or so minutes away.

Mass at St. Christopher Church in Kenab. \240Small church, very comfortable, very friendly congregation. \240Father Rick (we didn’t get his last name), the pastor, gave a very good and often funny homily about the Transformation and \240our transformation from people with a day-to-day frame of mind to something like God’s frame of mind.

We arrived at the Hanging Lake Inn in Glenwood Springs about 6:15 Mountain time.

Dinner on the patio at the Hotel Colorado, founded 1893. \240The server said they had a five-minute shower around 4:00, but we didn’t see a drop.

Ending odometer: \240125,342.

Sunset, Glenwood Springs

Meeting Melinda and John at 8:00 for breakfast at Daily Bread in Glenwood Springs. Beautiful early sunlight on the mountain across the highway.

On the road about 9:30. \240The car really strains uphill at altitude, but it keeps up with traffic.

We went through a hailstorm after we passed Denver, the first rain we’ve encountered since July 2. \240We arrived at the Husker motel in North Platte at 6:15, then went to dinner at Luigi’s restaurant, getting back to the motel just before a thunderstorm broke.

Morning sun, Glenwood Springs

Left motel at 8:00, stopped for breakfast. \240Odometer 125,782.

We drove to Omaha and met Carol and John Bertoni for lunch. \240They showed us their handsome riverfront condo, which is close to where the Lewis and Clark Expedition crossed the Missouri River. \240Then \240we went to their favorite restaurant for lunch.

We left Omaha and drove to Dubuque, arriving at the Hancock House bed & breakfast around 9:15 a long day. \240The proprietor, Simon, helped us up the stairs with our luggage. \240The house is on a rise overlooking downtown and the Mississippi River.

North Platte

Husker Inn, North Platte

Left Hancock House at 8:45. \240À disappointment: \240We couldn’t get water to run in the bathtub/shower.

Tasty breakfast at Charlotte’s Coffee House, “The Living Room of the Community.”

Odometer 126,410. \240Left Dubuque at 10:35.

We came to Zumbro Falls just as the skies opened. City Hall was closed, so we stopped into \240a town gathering place named the Neptune Bar and had a Scotch in Grandpa and Dad’s honor. \240The bartender said a resident named Charlie Cliff had just been in the bar, and also said he went to high school wit Jimmy Cliff. \240An elderly man, whose profile bore a startling resemblance to my brother Frank’s, tottered in to join some friends. \240I didn’t want to interrupt them to ask about my relatives.

Many unexpected but accurate directions from Apple Maps, including miles of gravel roads. \240Pouring rain again in the late afternoon. \240We arrived at the Budget Inn Marinette around 9:45.

Molissouri River

Dirt road taken per Apple Maps

Odometer:126,909.

We got toThe Harbors to visit Mary Couzens about 9:00. \240We visited with Mary for about an hour and a half. \240She looked good and seemed good for someone almost 95 years of age. \240The people who care for Mary seem very nice.

We left about 10:45 for Munising. \240I called about Pictured Rocks cruises, but Lake Superior is too rough for cruises today, so when we reached Munising, we had lunch and then sought out some short hiking trails. \240We visited the falls near Sand Point and at Miners Falls. \240The weather was clear and sunny, and the light coming through the deep woods was lovely.

We had an excellent dinner at Tracey’s Restaurant in the Roam Inn hotel, recommended by Margaret Crandall. \240It was a proper ending to a wonderful trip. \240Joan and I agreed that the entire trip was in the neighborhood of 95% enjoyable, which we mean to indicate our satisfaction with this unique vacation.

Odometer at end of day: \240127,056.

Dinner at the Hotel Colorado in Glenwood Springs, August 6

Trail to Miners Falls, Munising

Miners’ Falls, Munising

Path to Miners’ Falls in Munising

Scotty’s Motel, Munising

Munising

Coffee at Gallery Coffee Shop and on the road at 10:00. Gallery Coffee Shop is surprisingly large, with a variety of comfortable seating and art works on the walls, a nice gathering place. \240Rain started just as we left.

Miles of two-lane roads required close attention, but finally we crossed the bridge to the Lower Peninsula. \240We stopped in Gaylord for lunch at the Sugar Bowl, only to find that now it’s a Mexican restaurant. \240So we went to nearby Italian place.

Joan drove down I75 in pouring rain. \240The drive home seemed to take a long time.

Arrived home at 7:30, after stops at Costco (gas) and Village Market (food). \240Odometer 127,486. \240Trip mileage 8,023.

FINIS

The last fill-up at Costco in Roseville

Home at last!