1
114B Stoney Point Rd, Batchawana Bay, ON P0S 1A0, Canada

Our journey begins today as we head to London for a few days of visiting before we begin our next adventure.

It has been a spectacular fall with above seasonal temperatures. The colours hit their peak only a week ago.

We were feeling a big reluctant to leave the beauty of the North, and then Mother Nature kicked up a storm yesterday bringing most of the remaining leaves to the ground. This morning she gave us the jolt we needed with cool wet temperatures. The weather transition has occurred and perfectly timed as we start our journey.

2
Toronto Pearson International Airport

Our Journey begins!

After a few quick days in London we begin our journey out of Toronto Pearson International Airport. You don’t have to remind us why we hate driving in Toronto! We left with plenty of time to get to the airport, but after lots of stop and go traffic, we finally arrived with a lot of nail biting and a bit of time to spare.

We have boarded on time, and are looking forward to a smooth flight and hopefully a bit of sleep on our overnight flight to Athens.

At the last minute after doing some MEC returns we got a deal and bought new backpack carry on bags. Then we had to repack in the parking lot to ensure everything would fit. 😃

Leaving Chateau Diane

We breezed through security with our Nexus cards and were happy to see our flight is on time.

A few minutes to spare to grab a quick beverage and snack before boarding.

Greece here we come! 🇬🇷

3
Athens International Airport "Eleftherios Venizelos"

We landed in Athens ahead of schedule! Unfortunately, there was another plane at our gate so we had to wait until it departed. It was a bit of a bumpy ride, but we were able to get a few zzzz’s.

We had our first authentic Greek yogurt, and then off to find our gate for our connection flight to the Island of Rhodes, our first destination.

Our first Greek sunrise.

Ready to land.

Salad for breakfast.. why not!

Ahhh solo espresso and Greek yogurt with honey… I think there will be more of this in our future!

4
Maistrali Hotel & Restaurant

Long day, but a smooth travel day!

Our connection flight from Athens to Rhodes was right on time. Our driver “Costas” was waiting for us as we made the exit at the Rhodes airport. Our shuttle from there was about 25 minutes to the small town of Kalavarda. We were greeted at the hotel by the owner, and we were also greeted by Bertus from the cycle group. We dropped our bags into our room and then met Bertus in the lobby. We are staying at Maistrali Hotel Restaurant, a very small authentic family run establishment. Bertus bought us a drink as we review all of the cycling documents for the next week. This company has planned our routes, accommodations and many meals over the next week that we willl be cycling. After our briefing we headed to the shop to pick up our bikes and helmets.

After returning to the hotel and locking our bikes up for the night we headed out on foot to explore and find a mini mart where we could get some bottled water for our ride.

It is definitely off season, we feel like we are the only tourists in town!

Our light dinner tonight was served at the hotel as it has been a long day. Authentic tatsziki, pita bread and chicken souvlaki…doesn’t get any more Greek than that.

Costas waiting for us at arrivals.

The view from our room. Not far from the sea. Tomorrow we will explore more.

Quick check of our room.

Lots of animals in the building! Several cats (haven’t figured out how many yet)

And an orphan goat that is part of the family.

Getting the bikes set up.

I think we are ready to roll!

Our home for the next 3 nights.

Found water and a Greek flag.

The beer is cold, and the atmosphere very warm and inviting.

Wine, fresh Tzatziki and pita bread… life is good!

5
Butterflies Valley

Day 1 Rhodes - Amazing!

We had a fantastic breakfast to fuel our day provided at our hotel. We then met up with Bertrus again to go over final paperwork and ride files that weren’t ready yesterday. The first morning is always a bit of set up and fine timing. The bonus is today and tomorrow we are just riding a circular route and coming back to our same accommodations so no need to back up our stuff.

Breakfast and an espresso!

We headed out on our adventure and at about 7 km we found a lovely bakery for 2nd breakfast. Fueled and ready we set off again.

Our next stop was at Valley of the Butterflies, Petaloudes. The butterfly season is from approx end of June to September, but the walk was spectacular and meandered through a moss covered gorge. After hiking the 5km route with lots of climbs and switchbacks along the stone path we grabbed our lunch at the Butterfly Cafe.

From here we had to decide on the short or long route for the day. Both of us were feeling very good, and the weather was spectacular. Sunny, 25 degrees and a gentle breeze who could ask for more. So we opted for the long route. On one climb Lisa said “I am really liking these e-bikes”, Ed’s response “Don’t get too used to them”. \240I guess a gal can only dream for now. It certainly made the hills very comfortable today, and this was one of the flatter days, so we are not regretting our decision to go electric.

The path then took us through a forest and a couple of villages. Even though it was Sunday, many of the roads were not very busy. The one busy road we did travel, drivers were very accommodating and gave us a wide birth.

Finally the journey took us down by sea and meandered on small farm roads near the water. We made a final stop to re build our electrolytes and enjoy a local brew along the water.

For our first full day in Kalavarda, Rhodes, we filled it!

Tonight we are enjoying a feast provided by our hotel of a local traditional meal which we are looking forward to.

I guess this means there will be another blog post tonight after dinner.

Oh did I mention cats? There is certainly an abundant population here! Everywhere you go, sitting in windows, on sidewalks, in restaurants, I guess they don’t have Bob Barker here.

6
Maistrali Hotel & Restaurant

All we can say is wow!!

Tonight our hosts provided a sampling of Greek cuisines. Authentic dishes from the area, and national dishes.

Our Greek food tour started with a sampling of dips and homemade breads and pita along with a Greek salad.

Next they brought out wood fire roasted chickpeas, wood fire stewed lima beans, and wood fired lamb stew. All that takes 5-7 hours to cook in an outdoor wood fired oven.

Our next course had us sampling garlic mushrooms, zucchini fritters, potatoe croquettes and cheese stuffed Phyllo pastry with a honey drizzle. (I am sure I forgot something!)

Now all of these dishes have authentic Greek names, but we can’t remember any of them. Both of us however, will remember for a long time how delicious everything was.

After we finished our meal the owner Niko stopped by our table (we were the only non locals in the place) and started to chat. Over 30 minutes later he was still sharing his stories. He and his wife Mikayla run this business, and have for less than a year. He was a physio therapist before shifting to his passion of being in the hospitality industry. His grandmother had inspired a love of cooking, his father ran a coffee shop and now he and his wife run this place along with the help and support from their kids. He talked about the time he likes to take in preparing his dishes, and that he cooks with one very special ingredient, “LOVE”.

We were moved by the authenticity and passion of this entire family.

Tomorrow is a big celebration and they are all very busy, but he did not rush us or the conversation. Stay tuned, more to come on the celebrations tomorrow.

We are going to bed tonight with full bellies, and tired out from all the fresh air. I know we will sleep well.

Checking out the wood fire oven.

First course!

And then there was more.

It seemed like it was never going to end. Everything was delicious and we would definitely order again. But maybe just not everything in one meal.

Today is a National holiday in all of Greece. October 28th each year is OHI day.

Our hotel (and many of the local restaurants) were preparing for a busy day and groups of families coming in to celebrate. When we came down for breakfast at our accommodation, many of the tables were moved around to make room for more guests and a band that would be arriving mid day. Niko was already busy preparing food for the day in the wood oven.

With another great breakfast in our bellies, and fueled with espresso, we were ready to head out on our two wheels and explore.

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Archaeological Site of Kamiros

Thank goodness for the e-bikes!!

Today’s ride would take us along the coastline. At about 4 km there was a fork in the road and a steep incline 800 m long towards the Kamiros Ancient City Ruins which sat on the hilltop overlooking the sea. A bonus of the National holiday today was admission was free!

What we have found with the e-bikes, you still have to work, but the assist is so helpful in climbing.

It was another glorious weather day! We can’t imagine being here in July/August when it is almost 50 degrees! Right now the mid 20 temps are perfect.

After a very quick decent (and a lot of brake holding) we were back on the coastal road. From here it was straight on to our next destination

Oh but wait, it was time for a 2nd \240espresso at a quaint seaside village. We have added to our morning snack tradition of Greek yogurt with local honey! Yum! And it has to be healthy, right?

Where we have deer and moose crossing to be mindful of, here it is goat crossings you need to be on the watch for.

8
Kritinia Castle

Our next destination was Kritinia Castle. It was only a few km away, but the last kilometre was a 10% grade up the entire hill. Did I mention how much I am loving the e-bikes?

At the top was a set of stairs leading up to the castle. From there the view of the sea and the Chalki Islands was beautiful. The castle was built in the 14th century. It was destroyed by the Ottomans in 1440 and then rebuilt by the Crusaders. It was built to protect the port of Kamiros Skala.

Our lunch stop after our big climbs was a seaside restaurant. A few of their menu items were not available as their doors will be closing for the season after today. Several of the seaside establishments are already closed for the season with so few tourists, but we are loving the quietness of it. Our restaurant had a unique set up in that there was a courtyard in the middle with kids play area, and all of the tables were located with a seaside view.

A beautiful view!

Ed indulged in their daily special of Octopus with Risotto.

A view of the play area and seating.

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Kalavarda

On our journey home, we decided to make a quick stop and explore a beach area. They keep saying it’s winter, but many people were out enjoying the sand and the surf.

As part of the tradition for this national holiday, many of the local school children participate in a march from the school to the town square in the morning. We identified them throughout the day as they were dressed in white shirts and blue bottoms.

When we arrived back at our hotel, things were hopping! As this is their first season, they hired entertainment and I do believe half of the village is here. What a great way for the locals to celebrate. We just hope because tomorrow is a work day that the celebrations don’t go on too late.

Video to watch.

Out and back ride today. Even Strava noted the climb!

10
Hotel Ataviros

The mantra of the day is up and over!

Today we leave behind the small village of Kalavarda as we head towards the more mountainous central region Of the island. We have really liked this authentic small village. There isn’t much here other than a closet size mini mart, 3 restaurants which may or may not be open. The band shut down around 6:30pm last night and the locals were laughing and enjoying their holiday celebrations until around 9, so it really did not impact on our sleep.

We headed out with a slow and steady climb up to the village of Salakos. The guide noted that this was a great place to stop for a coffee/snack on the central square. We arrived at the square and picked out a table, we were the only ones there. We followed the welcoming wave of a local shop owner and were surprised when she said they had no espresso. Oh well, we decided to try a Greek coffee to go with our Greek yogurt. The taste was not to the liking of either of us. We both chuckled and decided that this was our bad cup of coffee! You can’t appreciate the good one without a bad one once in a while!

After leaving Salakos, the climb seemed steady and straight up. There were a few lookout spots where we were able to look back and see from where we had come at sea level. We even came across a Volunteer Wildland Fire Department! With many pine trees and very dry climate, I am sure fire is a concern here.

We arrived at our accommodation Hotel Ataviros around noon. We quickly got out of our riding gear and headed into the center of this small town. This village is in the center of the wine and olive oil industry for the island of Rhodes. We have commented a few times as we travel around that it feels like we have places all to ourselves. Every once in awhile we see a tour bus probably from a cruise ship, but we have been fortunate in our timing to just miss the crowd of tourists.

At the center of town we were able to find a small bakery and a delicious cup of coffee. The view from the center of town is very spectacular with the mountain in the backdrop. (We are trying not to think about tomorrow’s ride over it!)

We decided to head back to the hotel and enjoy a siesta by the water. Once again it feels like we are the only ones here.

All of our breakfasts and many of our dinners are included in the accomodations on this tour. We look forward to sampling more of the local cuisine in these tiny towns.

This is our route map.

Now this would be our kind of restaurant if it wasn’t 10 am!

Up and over!

The busy square of Salakos.

Our first (and probably last) Greek coffee.

A firefighting tanker!

The local Volunteer Wildland Fire Department.

Looking back to the sea from where we had come.

Great lookout spot.

The closer we get to that bump “mountain” the larger it appears to be.

On our way into Embonas we stopped for some sampling.

So many choices. They even have \240Cannibis olive oil!

We have arrived!

And so did our bags!

Ah, a bakery with fresh pastries.

Enjoying the sights and people watching in the town.

Just Chilln!

View from the center of town!

View from our backyard for the night!

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Hotel Ataviros

Living the dream!

You know how you dream about going \240to a tropical island and having the entire place to yourself? Well we feel like we have found it! Apparently, traveling in November in Greece is it.

After spending a few hours and a bit of a siesta and blog time by the pool with not a sole in sight we decided to venture back to the town center. With the few buses that were there earlier gone, things were pretty quiet. Ed stopped to watch one of the restaurateurs chopping meat and they invited him in for a look! Talk about making yourself at home!

We have found the Greek people to be very very friendly. They wave, say hello, and always smile at you passing by.

So I blogged earlier about dinners being included, which is wonderful. However, I feel like each restaurant is going to be another Big Fat Greek meal trying to out do the last one. It is a very good thing that we are cycling between our destinations as we will need the extra calories burning to keep up with our intake.

We asked the host tonight when they close for the season and he said the end of October. We are not the last guests, but close to it.

Another wonderful Greek day!

Chilln by the water.

The owner invited Ed to check out the cooler of fresh meat, and then showed him the grill where the meat is prepared.

Starters and a beautiful sunset! We feel very blessed.

The end of another wonderful day!

We are still trying to get this entry to load! Wifi is very weak here.

Today had lots of ups and downs! Probably the most spectacular views so far.

We were the only ones at breakfast once again. We were packed up and ready to roll by 9:00am so we decided to walk back down to the town center and grab a 2nd espresso with the locals before heading out on our journey.

The road began with a steep uphill climb! Are you getting the feeling I love the e-bike!! For the first part we cycled along the flanks of the Ataviros, the highest mountain on the island. Many switchbacks both up and down.

At the highest point we stopped in the village of Siana. True to past experience we found the only local cafe open right by the town church. There was also an open door where we could poke in and take some photos. Honey is one of the specialties of Siana and we were able to sample some along with olive oil at a local shop.

Through a forest we meandered to Monolithos with its famous view of its castle. As we started to climb the pathway up to the castle we were stopped by a guard who asked us to wait as they were filming. Another German \240family arrived as we were conversing and he said they were filming a reality show. Just before we were given the ok to continue our climb, he said they were a group from Croatia, filming the “Bachelor Croatia” and this was the final rose ceremony!! We didn’t get to meet the potential bride, but the bachelor was being given final instructions just before we left.

After Monolithos it was all downhill to our very small town for the night Apilakkia. There were waving at us when we arrived as if we were long awaited family.

After checking in and having a fantastic 2€ Gyro, we headed back out on our bikes to explore more of the area. So many deer in the area, we had to stay alert!

Unfortunately, a wildfire destroyed the surrounding area in 2016. We did check their volunteer fire hall in the town center. No indoor parking for the trucks here.

Enjoying morning espresso with the locals.

Looking back from where we had come.

Small island off the coast!

Another amazing view.

It’s hard to stop looking out to the sea.

This gorge was breathtaking! The pictures do not do it justice.

At one point we said, we can not keep stopping or we will never get there!

The long and winding road.

Enjoying coffee by the local church!

Tasting the local honey and olive oil.

Inside the church.

Kitty cat alley.

In the distance you can see the white castle. It was a steep downhill to get there. And of course a steep climb back out.

The Castle/Church at the top.

The views from here once again were spectacular.

Our final rose ceremony❤️🌹

Ok would the real bachelor please come forward!

Not all rooms are glamours when we book these tours. Beds are clean and so far hospitality has been wonderful. When you are in a small town that only has one place to stay, you can’t be too picky.

Enjoying our authentic Gyro!

Lots of deer around the countryside.

Our accommodations for the night.

Local fire department.

Ed checking out the fire trucks.

12
Lindos Princess Beach Resort & Spa

Happy Halloween… or is it? There is nothing here to indicate it is Halloween so we have concluded it is not a commercial holiday that is recognized here.

We left the small village of Apolakkia behind us and once again we have been blessed with amazing weather. Our journey started out heading toward the coastal road. Very quiet in the early morning, more goats than cars to be seen and keep an eye out for.

On our route we travelled through two small towns, Kattavis and Lachania. Both seemed to be surrounded by farmland so we assume their most predominant industry is agriculture. We had to do a bit off-roading along a dirt path to get to the second one..

After leaving the small villages behind, our route took us to the eastern side of the Island of Rhodes. It is very different here. Lots of luxury villas, resorts and much more traffic. Very much a thriving tourist area.

We weren’t really sure what to expect in our accommodations tonight. They indicated the place we were originally booked into was closed for the season so they had moved us. When we arrived we weren’t sure if it was a Trick or a Treat!!

We are at a 5 star all inclusive resort for the night! Multiple pools, bars, restaurants. I can’t imagine this place in peak season because it seems to be busy enough for our liking. We are definitely living the life of luxurinos tonight!

Looking back from where we came.

Watch out for goats!

Looking for a cafe near the church.

The dirt road leading up to…

The town square.

Heading back towards the sea!

Such beautiful weather and very few people enjoying this beach.

Admiring the coastline.

We found our home for the night!

I think they get very few people arriving by bicycles.

Wow! Certainly not what we expected.

Buffet lunch beachside while sipping on a Mojito.

And of course they have a station for espresso.

Now to dip our toes in the sea and catch a few zzz’s and enjoy the afternoon in paradise.

Good night from the Mediterranean.

13
Lindos Acropolis

Today was another amazing day!

We said again today several times, we would hate to be doing this tour in the summer time. The days are very hot for us as it is and riding in that heat of summer has to be unbearable.

We enjoyed a wonderful buffet breakfast at our restaurant before a final walk along the beach. Once packed we headed for the first town on our route today, Lindos. I had read that this was a unique town with a medieval castle. and from our first vantage point it didn’t appear that special, boy were we wrong!

We took a road that headed into the small alley ways of street paths. They were so narrow we had to stop and walk our bikes. It wasn’t long before we came to an abundance of “street vendors” and a sign for the Acropolis. We found a place to park our bikes in the square and headed back into the alley ways to explore.

From afar, the climb looked treacherous, but there were several plateaus along the way so it wasn’t too bad. The view from the top was amazing and totally worth the climb and the 6€ admission. What an amazing Acropolis.

“The acropolis of a city was used in many ways, with regards to ancient times and through references. Because an acropolis was built on the highest part of a city, it served as a highly functional form of protection, a fortress, and was as well a home to the Royal of a city and a centre for religion through the worshipping of different gods”

Our quick stop in Lindos ended up taking us about 3 hours, and it was worth every minute.

From here we only had another 25 km to go as this was a shorter day. We travelled through 2 towns Masari and Malona the last being a very quaint sea side village!

One of the questions we still haven’t figured out is where is everyone going and why? Some of the resort areas we passed through are like abandoned beach towns, all closed for the season. With weather this good and they don’t have a concern about winter, why the hurry to close up and go where?

We ended our journey today at Ros Mari in the town of Archangelo. It is the 2nd largest town on the Island. Here is one of the only hotels that does not have dinner included, so we will be venturing down to the main square to see what we can find.

The Lindos Acropolis from our arrival.

Heading in the streets began to narrow.

Stopping for our morning espresso.

We found a bit of an out of the way place to enjoy our espresso with the locals.

It was easy to find the Acropolis once we figured out just to follow the shops through the maze of streets.

The pictures just do not do it justice.

We could have posted so many pictures, but here are just a few.

The view is spectacular!

Yes, we agree with this!

Taking a final look back at the Lindos Acropolis!

We have passed many river beds that are completely dried up. One gal said they haven’t had but 1 day of rain since September. The ground is so hard we can only imagine what it will be like in the rainy season.

A must have on our travels to rinse things out at the end of a sweaty day.

Our home for the night.

A \240beautiful hilltop view to end our day.

14
Maistrali Hotel & Restaurant

Update in progress!

We started our day with another delicious breakfast only for us! Once again we are the last guests of the season. The hostess put out a spread of her homemade marmalades and homemade juices as well.

Fueled, we headed away from the busy city of Archangellos to make our way back to the northwest side of the Island.

Our fist stop was at Epta Piges which means Seven Springs. Here the peacocks roam like the cat’s strutting around and checking out all of the visitors. There was a short walk to an interesting (but rather small) tunnel that goes underground to a lake. We weren’t feeling too adventurous on this one to walk in the dark with our feet in cold water so we took a pass on it.

Our next stop was at the Monastery of Agios Nektarios. This beautiful church gave us a bit of a rest from our climb. There was also a hallow tree and natural spring water.

We rode through the town of Eleousa. From 1912 until WWII Rhodes was under Italian rule. The Italians built this village, called Campochiaro. In 1948 the village became under Greek rule and was renamed to Eleousa. It was a station of the Italian Army and from 1950-1970 the buildings were used as a sanitarium for tuberculosis patients.

Unfortunately, since 1970 the buildings are abandoned and are decaying slowly.

Our journey continued uphill. At one point we had 3 km at about a 12% grade to climb! The journey was shaded by many tall pine trees. In total we climbed about 27 km! Our decent was very quick and steep and was only about 3 km. Very glad our brakes held up.

We had a couple more church stops before we made our way back to sea level. From here we were in familiar territory as we made our way back to our starting point in Kalavarda.

As we returned to our hotel where we started they greeted us with a warm “Welcome Back!”

We are very grateful for the .gpx files provided by the tour company which allowed us to navigate our trip around this beautiful island. Without them we would have been following paper routes and still may be trying to find our way.

It is bitter sweet as we return here. Glad to be back to a familiar place, but sad that our bike journey has come to an end. We really enjoyed cycling here and the weather has been absolutely supreme for us. Tomorrow we move on and begin to explore a different part of this island.

This spread was all for us!

We figured we would qualify as motor bike parking.

Goats, Goats, everywhere. I think we saw more goats than cats today!

Beautiful tree lined roads.

The peacocks checking out our ride.

Not feeling the need to walk barefoot through this 150 meter tunnel!

There was an aqua duct system that ran along the road for many kilometres.

Monastery of Agios Nektarios

Inside the Monastery chapel.

Look a hobbit house!

The chapel in Eleousa

Abandoned buildings in Eleousa which is such a shame as they have beautiful architecture!

The long and winding uphill climb today.

The local fire services!

The chapel of Agios Nikolaos Fountoukli- beautiful colourful frescos built in the 14th century.

The Monastery of Agios Silas in the center of a very large park. I am sure this place is packed in the summer time.

Inside the chapel fresh spring water runs from this cistern.

We stopped along the beach for one last look at the sea from Kalavarda.

We did a walk about the village of Kalvarda \240and Ed was going to get to work helping them keep up with the white painting.

We stopped at the local mini mart and picked up beverages to enjoy on our patio for our final night here.

15
Helios Garden boutique apartments

We have stepped back in time today!

After a hearty omelette breakfast made by Maekala, we were picked up by Ineke one of our tour operators to be taken to our next destination only about 40 km away in the Old Town of Rhodes. We had to be dropped off at a church where our hosts would come and get us as no cars are allowed in the Old Town.

In the new “Modern” Rhodes there are many large hotel chains, but in the Old Town, with cobble stone streets it is a walking paradise. Our home for the next 3 nights is Helios Garden with our hosts Jay and Meike Kroon. They both came to meet us at the Old Town Gates, and the Meike walked in with us giving us some history and information as we walked in. Once here, they served us fresh apple muffins in their beautiful gardens, water with ice cubes with frozen lemon pieces and mint. (Ed said, I guess we need to step up our game at our Airbnb).

We took a few minutes to settle in and then Jay set off with us to help us to navigate the maze of streets and to point out good places to eat along the way.

It was our intention to just check things out a bit today and then return to take it easy today, however, we found the Museum of Archaeology and at the entrance the cashier said all museums are free today because it is the first Sunday of the month. Well who doesn’t love free?

So after this it was off to the Palace of the Grand Master and then to the Church of Our Lady of the Castle. Of course they were free too!

We managed to find the supermarket that Jay had pointed out earlier and find our way back to our accommodations so we were quite pleased.

More interesting facts about Old Rhodes Town;

It was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1988. It is a mixture of different architectures from various historical periods dominated by the period when The Order of St John of Jerusalem who occupied Rhodes and the Ottoman period. It is a very well preserved city and it is the focal point of interest of all visitors of the island and offers the best services in the sectors of trade, food, and entertainment.

Mediaeval buildings, reminiscent of castles narrow streets, houses, mosques, fountains, quiet squares, transport visitors to another time. Massive walls, enclose the city and around the walls are gates dating back to the Knights period. A walk along these impressive walls gives one the opportunity to assess the fortification work of the mediaeval city, and to also enjoy the magnificent panoramic view of the old and new city of Rhodes.

So much more to explore, we are very glad we have a few days here to check things out.

Oh, and guess what? As we checked in, Meike said we are their last guest of the season. We keep hearing that!

Saying goodbye to our host in Kalavarda. They really made us feel like family.

We were very glad we didn’t have to navigate the drive to Rhodes City.

Our first experience in the garden at Helios Gardens.

You can tell these plants are well loved.

Our magnificent room for the next 3 sleeps.

We also have a small kitchen and sitting room. The hosts provided a bottle of water, wine, and a filled fruit bowl.

Our first look at the square. (I am sure we will be here a few more times!)

We stepped outside the walls so that we could appreciate the grandeur of this fortress.

Stepping inside the Archeological Museum. Artifacts were there from all over the Greek Islands.

Who needs a shave more?

That’s one very heavy set of armour.

The floor was completely put together with different rocks and tiles to form the masterpiece.

The Museum Gardens.

After working up a sweat we decided Geleto was in order as we navigated the streets to the next museum.

Our first Glympse at the Palace of the Grand Master.

The courtyard in the palace.

That is one long set of stairs!

Everything in these rooms was grand!

Leaving along the stone Knights road.

Our last Museum stop at the Church of our Lady of the Castle. Partially destroyed by earthquakes twice, and rebuilt each time.

Found our way back to our temporary home.

Enjoying the gardens and wine provided by our hosts.

We are really enjoying being back in time. The roads (or passageways) are very quiet so we both had a very sound sleep.

Before breakfast we decided to do a walk around the historic city via the ancient mote. Only a few other early risers were out enjoying this unique walk this early. Around every corner was a different perspective of the walls and Castle.

Our host provide an optional breakfast. When I had booked this place the reviews said it was very good. We decided to partake in it and very good was definitely an understatement. Fresh squeezed orange juice. Freshly made cream cheese, a quiche, freshly made rolls( still warm), Greek yogurt with home made granola. Banana muffins and I am sure I forgot something.And Jay said what ever we don’t eat please take back to the room… so we had a fantastic packed lunch that we could take with us. Definitely a Greek feast to start the day.

Fueled and ready to storm the castle, we set out with no specific mission but to explore.

We found an information center open and he suggested a couple of sites to explore. So off along the beach boardwalk we ventured looking for a church in the rocks. This unique church was built into the side of the sea wall and adorned with candles and many pictures. This was also a great spot to stop and enjoy our packed leftover breakfast lunch!

We then meandered through the streets of New Rhodes making our way back. Once back in the Old Town, we found the Jewish Synagogue Museum. There was a thriving population of Jews here before WWII, and even a Rabbis University. Unfortunately when the Germans invaded during the war many were sent sent to Auschwitz and were never able to return.

We are starting to be able to navigate our way around these narrow streets. Today there were no cruise ships in the port so things were very quiet.

A view from the Moat.

A view from the Moat.

A view from the Moat.

An early morning view from the harbour.

The narrow passage to our home.

What a breakfast!

This church is one of the oldest, just around the corner. It keeps going down and down to the alter.

Even garbage cleanup is done by motorcycle in the old town.

The large iron gates that protected this medieval city in the day.

Enjoying our sea side walk.

The boat \240entrance to the harbour.

A diving platform in the sea! We did not go and try it out.

Video

We found the entrance to the church cave by the sea.

Very unique inside.

Video

Enjoying our breakfast/lunch by the sea.

We found our way back to the Medieval City!

The Jewish Synagogue Museum.

Around every corner there is always something beautiful! (And another cat!)

Not all roads lead to where you think they should here!

We started our day with another walk in the moat, this time going in the opposite direction and heading out to view the windmills along the pier. Everything is very quiet this time of the morning.

After another delicious homemade breakfast by Jay and Meike, we left the protection of the historic walls behind and headed into the “Modern” Rhodes following the suggestion of the man at the information booth yesterday.

Our first mission was to locate the Acropolis of Rhodes. This wasn’t too bad as you just had to keep climbing to the highest point in the city. After viewing Lindos, this one was underwhelming, but admission was free. The day was once again spectacular and we were getting our steps in. The unique thing about this site was the Athletic Stadium and viewing area. You could almost feel what it may have been like in the day with crowds cheering! Ed was going to do a lap around the track, but he didn’t have on the right shoes!

After a delicious coffee at the Acropolis Cafe, which ironically was a happening local hangout, we headed further into the Modern City to find Rhodini Park. Our path took us in commercial areas, residential areas, remote areas, dead end streets, and after about 8 km of walking we decided to call it a day and head back. We turned to head toward the sea as we knew if we stayed along the water we would eventually make our way back… which we did. The beauty of Google maps you can get so many places, the challenge of Google Maps is it isn’t always accurate when you try to get to those places. All in all we are at 25000 steps and it was a great day to explore. At no time on roads have we ever felt unsafe on \240either bike or on foot.

Tonight we must pack our bags and say good bye early tomorrow morning as we start our next adventure.

The town has continued to get quieter each day with many shops and restaurants closing up for the season. Flexible is key, as you may find somewhere that looks good for dinner, but by the time we head back they are closed. We have not gone hungry by any means.

Our morning walk among the windmills.

Looking back from where we had come.

The chapel of St Nicholas along the water.

Spectators stadium at the Acropolis.

The track is in the background behind Ed.

Not sure what this guy was doing, but he had very large mesh traps filled with bread and very large fins.

Loading a ferry bound for one of the other islands.

Looking back from where we had come.

We are always discovering new (old) \240things here.

Seahorse fountain.

Quiet town in the evening.

Bittersweet saying goodbye to Rhodes!

We have had a wonderful time here on this Island. The people are so genuine and friendly. Jay had arranged a taxi to pick us up and take us to the airport. They were also up early to walk us out and had a very special parting gift for us. It is probably something they do for all their guests, but we found it very special. There is a small change purse, made from the same fabrics as the bed coverings and curtains. Some dried Oregano from their garden and mountain tea, an herb Meike has picked and dried herself.

16
Kronos Hotel

We had a direct flight to Crete which are hard to get as many go via Athens this time of the year. We are really liking our new little carry on suitcases that convert to a backpac, because today we had to check them as the plane was full we were told.

After arriving in the capital of Crete, \240Heraklion, it was a quick taxi ride to our accomodation Kronos Hotel. Our location is perfect, right on the sea, and central to many of the sites. Our room was available so we were able to check in early and grab a few nibbles from the morning breakfast buffet before heading out.

Video: View from our room.

Our first mission was to locate the bus station for our plans for the next couple of days which was very easy to find. Then off we headed towards the central Lions square, Morosini Fountain. This is the central hub of the streets which allowed us to get our bearings. What we also found were many American franchised stores, H&M, Starbucks, M.A.C. As we headed to our next destination we did come across a couple of beautiful landmarks. It is interesting to find the new and modern mixed in with the old.

St. Marks, Venetian Loggia which is a very ornate City Hall built around 1628.

The central fountain.

Video of City Hall

From the steps of City Hall

City Hall

Our next distraction along our route was the Parish (church) of Saint Titus. Beautiful from the outside and the inside!

Say what?

You never know what will be found through an open door.

After a few distractions we finally arrived at our destination the museum of Ancient Greek Technology. Ed was in heaven! This museum displayed the Hi- Tech inventions from then and now. On display were many fully functional reconstructions of Ancient Greek inventions. A science and Technology paradise.

Demonstrations too!

We had worked up an appetite with all of the science contraptions so we headed off to find somewhere for a bite to eat. Once again while in search of our destination we came to the Metropolitan Church of Aylos Minas, and with its open door we had to go have a look. ABC=another beautiful church!

We found this little lunch spot on one of the quiet alleyways. Ed enjoyed the Greek dish of Mousakka, it is becoming one of his go to dishes.

Our final stop for the day was at the Museum of Crete. We only had 1 hour here as they close early with the winter season, it was enough, but we could have used more time. Very interesting displays on the different occupations of the island, the occupation during WWII, cultural celebrations and clothing. It will well done and we really enjoyed it.

We wrapped up our first day here in Crete with an after dinner stroll on the streets around the fountain. Very different vibe here than on Rhodes. Very lively, bars and restaurants were busy, shops were still open and there were lights and music everywhere.

Evening stroll by the Morozini Fountain.

Day 2 in Heraklion. This is a very busy city compared to what we have been used to.

The Greeks cross the streets at crosswalks by stepping out and traffic stops. We stand there and wait for what appears to be a break in traffic and then run, \240both work to get you across the street. 😉

Our first adventure of the day was heading to Knossos Palace. It is located only 5 km outside of town so we decided to navigate there on the local city bus system. Our mission was successful and after about a 20 minute ride we arrived.

Knossos is one of the big tourist attractions in this area. It has an area of about 20,000 sq meters which are surrounded by mazes of magnificent buildings, royal palaces, decorated and multi coloured frescos with themes out of the life of the palace, such as bull fights, religious ceremonies, etc.

Walking around you could imagine what it was like to live in this period of time. They provided an app that allowed you to self guide yourself from one display to another. The First Palace was built around 1900 BC. Through wars and weather events the palace was destroyed and rebuilt several times. The frescos are preserved far better than many other areas due to the climate here on Crete.

One of the multi story homes.

The throne room.

Not sure if these were water or wine! 🍷

The road leading into Knossos palace

You may have noticed the puffy jackets are now out. Weather has been different here. It is still between 17-20 degrees, but when you are in the shade with wind it can feel quite cool, and after the sun goes down. We have been layering off and on throughout the day. Today is also the first day we have had some clouds, but still no rain. We are not complaining, but the locals do say it’s desperately dry here.

We choose to get off at a different bus stop on the way back closer to the fountain and grab a quick bite for lunch. Lots of options here and they have street food meat skewers for 2€ which were excellent! We walked a couple of the streets with more tourists shops and then headed back to put our our feet up for a few minutes.

Excellent lunch!

After a brief nap and a shot of espresso. We headed out again to visit the Venetian Marine Fortress of Heraklion.

Fueling up with an espresso.

The Fortress and pier guard the naval entrance to the city. This building was very grand and majestic. It was built upon a natural rocky outcrop. It has 2 stories and the view from the 2nd story was well worth the 2€ admission.

One of many canon rooms.

The view of the sea.

After a walk around the fortress we headed out to walk the rest of the pier. By the time we were at the end, we were very close to the airport and 2.5 km from our start. We were well sheltered from the waves and wind by the break walls.

Video: along the pier

Looking back from where we had come.

Pier art.

Internet is very slow here… update in progress 🤞

We are on the move again!

Today we are heading to Chania, a different area on Crete for the next few nights. We are travelling there on the local KTel bus system. A 2:45 ride which cost us 16€. We are missing the freedom and flexibility of the bicycle but travelling on these roads and realizing how much hillier Crete is, we were glad not to be on them today!

A couple of final shots of our view in Heraklion.

I don’t think I ever really described our new travel bags. They are carry on size, with several pockets both outside and inside.

The back has a zipper cover that when undone becomes a backpack. When done up everything is protected if we do need to check the bag on a flight.

On the uneven cobbled streets, it is much easier to carry the bags on our backs rather than pull them.

Next stop Chania.

17
Casa Leone Hotel

We arrived in Chania and made our way to our hotel for the next few nights at Casa Leone Hotel. Once again there is a new Modern Chania and the Old Venetian Town and we are staying in the traffic free, much quieter old town. The streets are very narrow and filled with so much character and history.

We quickly dropped off our bags and as our room wasn’t yet ready we headed out to grab some lunch before a walking tour that we had scheduled for 3pm.

This tour was special for us as one of our Airbnb guests at home had made a recommendation for this guide. Garry our guide was born in Scotland and then moved here when he was 3. He still has a Scottish accent, but is also fluent in Greek, Spanish, and knows 10 phrases in German.

We learned and heard about a different side of Crete from Garry. Because of the different cultures here, there is a mix of Venetian (Italian), Ottoman (Muslim), Jewish, Christian (Greek Orthodox). You can see how religion has a big part to play in the reining governments.

Some interesting facts we learned;

In the Greek Orthodox churches (Christians) they aren’t allowed to use Stone or Marble to decorate their churches. This is why all of the modern churches are decorated so ornately with wood, metals, and vibrant paintings. The Stone carvings were used by the Greeks to depict their gods so the Christians wanted to have a way to differentiate.

There are many knife stores here. The knives are created to represent where a person is from and are handed down from generation to generation. This comes from the Turkish influence during their occupation of the area. This tradition is still in place today, unfortunately the knives are only for the men in the family and can only be passed from father to son.

The Muslims had very large and intricately decorated buildings and the Christians had very small plain chapels, as the area was ruled by the Muslims.

Chania is very driven by tourism. The population this time of the year is around 100,000. During the peak of the season the population can rise to 2 million. We sure wouldn’t want to be here in the summer, but it is very pleasant to be here now.

The culture and traditions of the current day Crete people have been influenced by the many occupiers of the region and the religions over the past 4000 years.

When we got back to our room, the view did not disappoint.

We finally found our little hotel.

Garry explains about the knife shops.

This shop custom designs knives and sends them all over the world.

Muslim homes had wooden facades built for added privacy so that the woman of the household would not be seen.

This church was a mosque and later converted to a Christian Greek Orthodox. You can see both the church tower of the Christian and the mareitt of the Muslim tower from where the faithful would be called to prayer each day.

Inside the former Mosque. No windows which was typical.

Enjoying our first taste of Raki. A liquor made with cinnamon and honey.

The sun was setting as our tour ended and we were heading back.

Our room and view of the Venetian Harbour.

So good to be on the water! \240

Update in progress…struggling with wifi here!

It’s been a very nautical day so far!

We started our day with an early morning walk along the harbour. Stopping for a coffee (and wifi access) at the yacht club cafe. This cafe was built in one of the unfinished ship building houses giving it a mix of old and new architecture.

We then took a stroll through the local Saturday morning market. It was buzzing with activity, loud conversations, and so many delicious sights and smells.

Fruits, nuts, olive oils, herbs, vegetables, meats, cheese to name a few.

Who cut the cheese?

We then headed back to our hotel where our breakfast was ready. We try to find places where this start to the day is included. So far we have not been disappointed.

After fueling up we headed west out of town to explore the shoreline, shops and beaches. Most shops and hotels out of the main area are now closed for the season.

Not too many people in the water, but there were a few. They say the water temp is around 20 degrees.

We did come across a nice 50 meter swimming pool right by the sea.

They appear to have 3 activities at the pool, lane swimming, water polo, and finswimmimg? This is done with a very large mermaid like fin which both feet are strapped into. There was a group of young girls just out of the pool and they all had large cases about the right shape, we are sorry we missed seeing this in action!

Video: pool side

Google it, it’s pretty cool.

We then went to the Crete Marine Museum. The country and Islands are so dependent on the water for many things, the museum talked about the roll the Greek Navy played in so many historical battles, including WWII and with the Turks. So many miniature models that you could tell took 100s of hours to create. There was one room that made you feel like you were in the control center of a battleship, working telegraph machine included.

Our nautical day was not finished yet, we headed back over to the ship yard (where we had our morning cafe) as one of the buildings was also now a museum.

The interesting thing about these buildings, was they would dam the harbour to raise the water level of the entire harbour so that they could get large vessels inside these buildings to dry dock them and do repairs.

More to come later.. a little rest and we are off again shortly for more exploring.

We have learned travelling in the off season that plans don’t always go as anticipated.

We had signed up for a free walking tour tonight at 5. We went to the meeting spot, but unfortunately no guide showed up. We did a pivot and we were able to find an audio self guided tour instead and it actually had the same starting point!!

The beauty of the self guided tour is you can start and stop at any time it’s based on your schedule.

Waiting for our guide to show up.

We were at the Market Building, currently under reconstruction. It is a very large T shaped buildings. In the day it was filled with shops and vendors.

The tour took us down what is known as “Leather Street”. Many of the shops and craftspeople on this street specialize in making many different leather goods. You can smell the aroma of fresh leather in the air. Unfortunately as with many of these skilled trades, the younger generations are not carrying on the business so there are less vendors each year.

We stopped at the Chuch of Trimartryi. There was actually a wedding taking place during our tour.

We decided to pause our tour here for the evening and we will resume our tour on Monday.

Things are a bit crazy and loud in the old town tonight. There is a US Naval base near here and we think most of them are on leave for the night! Needless to say, many of the bars and restaurants are enjoying this influx of patrons in their slower winter season. I guess this is also a fitting end to our nautical day.

Today was a pivot day!

We planned to get out of the city today and rent a car. Our first stop was to be the Ancient Olive Tree of Vouves. This tree is very special as it is only groomed when the Olympics are on. The branches of this tree are used to make the official Olympic wreath.

Our next stop was to be the Botanical Gardens of Crete on the way up White Mountain. Here there is both natural plants and animals of the Island. They also have a superb restaurant using many of the local grown herbs and vegetables.

Our third stop was higher up White Mountain at the start of the Samaria Gorge National Park. Unfortunately the trail is now closed for the winter season, so you can no longer hike down to the water, but the view from the lookout we are told is spectacular.

However our plans changed when we woke up and Ed had a stomach bug, so we were sticking close to home today. Seems that it is a common ailment with tourists around here.

I went out exploring on foot, with intermittent trips back to check on things. So today will be a bit random of my discoveries.

The original Market from a different angle. I think this one better depicts the vastness of this structure.

This is the central fountain by the pier and our landmark to find our way around the streets.

The waves were really crashing on shore today, and yet several skillled sailboats left the safety of the harbour to enjoy a Sunday sail.

I decided to venture out along the long pier that protects this harbour. It was about 1.5 km to the lighthouse.

If you look closely you can see a sailboat though this canon embrasures (holes).

Made it to the lighthouse.

There are a couple of these fishing shops in the harbour if you are looking for sea sponge, shells and other trinkets.

This sail boat just returned to the safety of the harbour and it was almost laying on its side as it came through.

The museums are closed here on Sunday so feeling grateful we did them yesterday.

The patient is feeling better tonight and we were just out for an evening stroll.

We have one more day planned here in Crete before we are on the move. Let’s hope things go as planned tomorrow. 🤞

Update in progress! Stay tuned more to come today.

Ed is back up and going today!!

We headed out for a short walk before breakfast to test the waters so to speak and all is good!!

After a hearty breakfast we then headed out for a longer walk to finish up the Self Guided tour we had started the other day. One of the things we love about these tours is you set the pace and distractions. Sometimes you want to enter a building, and sometimes you want to stop for a cafe, all is acceptable.

So many cute little streets/alleys. A town rich in so much history from many different cultural influences.

Another beautiful alley.

Back at the church from where we had ended.

From the courtyard of the Christian Greek Orthodox, when you turn around you can see the small blue steeple of the Catholic Church which is actually hidden down a very small passageway. It is kind of like David \240and Goliath here.

Video: can you find the Catholic Church.

It must have been morning pigeon bathing time at the fountain.

Another beautiful street.

Another beautiful street.

Vehicle traffic is only allowed on the Old Town streets from 7-9 am. If shops are not open then the delivery driver simply leaves items by the door, including cases of alcohol! It must be a safe town.

The ruins of this Mosque Temple have been turned into a unique shop. We were fortunate that it was open as there was more to be found inside.

This was previously the mosque tower, since destroyed on the exterior, but still exists inside.

So many excavation sites on many of the side streets.

Sorry loved this cat shot!

Our tour ended at the Mosque on the pier. In the day when Chania was under Muslim rule, having the Mosque right at the pier, kept Christians and women from coming ashore.

Back at our room to put our feet up and get ready for the afternoon adventures.

Stay tuned.. more to come

With Ed feeling better we decided to continue with our plans for Cretan cooking experience.

Our excursion started with a 40 minute drive around Souda Bay and up into the mountains.

We were then put to work chopping, grating, rolling in order to prepare our dinner.

Between preparations we explored the farm, beautiful landscape, they also \240had a small family museum.

Our driver and guide Janas

Learning some of the history of Crete with wine & cheese..

Video: olive oil goes in everything.

Sitting down to enjoy our feast.

18
Nissos Thira Hotel

Travel day!

We are on our way from Chania to Santorini. Our original plan was to ferry to this beautiful island, but unfortunately with the change in schedules Nov 1, the ferry to Santorini only goes Friday and Sunday.

The blog might be quieter than normal today, as I have caught the bug that Ed had. Feeling much better than I was in the wee hours of the morning.

All part of a travel adventure. 😉

We have arrived in beautiful Santorini and and after a brief nap, we were able to take in an amazing sunset.

It truly is an engineering marvel how all these homes are built on rock on the side of a cliff.

Early to bed as we have lots to explore tomorrow!

Update in progress! There is lots to update today!

Today was an incredibly full day. We booked a 5 hour small group tour of the island last night (one of the advantages of off season travel is last minute booking) our van picked us up at our hotel at 9:30 and we were a small party of 5.

We are staying in Fira which is in the center and is the capital of this small island which is only 32 km end to end.

Our guide was Vanos and she was very knowledgeable and entertaining.

Our first stop was the highest point of the Island. From here we had a great vantage point of the Cauldara and the small volcano island in the center. Santorini is actually made up of a ring of 3 islands.

The narrow winding roads to the summit were skillfully navigated by our smaller bus driver. While we were there, one large bus arrived, and as it was struggling to get turned around I mentioned this to Vanos and she said in the summer one day there were 15 buses here at the same time… impossible!

Our next stop was the village of Megalochori. We walked through the narrow streets with our guide and visited one of the cave houses that people used to live in. It would be cool in the summer, but I am sure very damp and cold this time of the year.

Inside a cave house.

Many buildings have domed roof and small windows as they felt this helped to keep them cool.

Years ago they used whitewash to paint the houses which contained lye which was supposed to help slow the decay pf the surfaces and repel bugs. The white they thought also helped to reflect the heat. Today they mainly use white paint. The blue accent on the doors and domes is symbolic of the Greek flag 🇬🇷.

Santorini is known for its wine production. The vines are trained to grow in a circular almost basket formation on the ground. The harvest unfortunately has suffered the last couple of years due to the severe droughts. They are trying to find a way to irrigate the plants, but don’t want to change the flavour of the wines

A grape vine.

A quick stop at Firostefani, the Honeymoon center of the island.

Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Catholic Church

This rock formation used to be the home of a small village. Unfortunately during one of the earthquakes it was destroyed. You can still do the steep climb up to the top for amazing views.

Skaros, apparently at one time there was a suspension bridge from the Island to the main island.

Beautiful well cared for homes along the winding streets.

Next we were on to Oia. This is the tourist highlight for all visitors.

At this point people can spend 2 hours in the summer waiting to get a picture. We spend 2 minutes 😃

Our guide described Santorini as the Disney of Greece. Very much alive because of tourism. It is both a blessing and a curse for the island. Last summer there were so many tourists from cruise ships they asked the locals to stay off the roads.

Stay tuned, there is more to come.

After dinner was adventure time! Cruise ships that visit Santorini dock just offshore and passengers are tendered via smaller vessels to the dock at the foot of the caldera wall. The climb to the top is 200 m (722 feet) \240and one has three options to get to the village of Fira at the top from the dock. Walk the 500+ steps, which can take approximately 1.5 hours, a donkey ride for €10, or the cable car 6€.

Since we were starting in Fira at the top, we walked down the steps along the winding path which took about 40 minutes. The vistas were spectacular, especially with the sun setting into the horizon! Although there were no donkeys on the steps when we were on the way down, there were certainly a lot of “signs “they were there earlier in the day.

When we arrived at the sea, the cable car was waiting for us for the journey back up. Maybe next time we will climb up the steps instead!

Video: from the dock.

Caldera Rim Hike from Fira to Oia.

Hiking the caldera rim from Fira to Oia is one of Santorini‘s top experiences. It explores the towns of Fira, \240Firostefani, Imerovigli, Oia with stunning views of the islands and the caldera all along the route.

The total distance hiked was just over 10 km about 6 miles. The walking path is a mix of paved pedestrian walkways, cobblestones, dirt trails, lava rocks, and many more. It’s a hilly walk with little shade, so we were glad we started early in the day to beat the heat of the afternoon.

Along the way, you also have the option to make a detour out to Skaros rock. This is an outcropping of rock located near Imerovigli. If you add this on to the walk it would add another 45 to 60 minutes to the hike. We took a look at the path that is very narrow and has no border on it and my fear of heights was making me feel uneasy, so we carried on.

What a wonderful way to explore the area and enjoy the continuously changing vistas along the way! Sorry for all the photos, but it’s only a few of the many that we seem to have taken in Santorini.

Once we arrived in Oia, we grabbed a quick bite to eat and caught the public bus for a ride back to Fira.

Once again we we blessed with another amazing sunset to end our day.

Heading out of Fira along the path.

The alternate route at Skaros… maybe next time.

Pictures just don’t describe it.

At the crest of the first hill we met this man who’s family has owned and maintained this chapel for many many years.

You can see Oia in the distance.

We felt very much like we were back on the Camino today.

We have arrived safely in Athens from Santorini. Our last inter island flight on Aegean.

We successfully navigated the Athens Metro system, and we’re able to find our little Airbnb right downtown in the heart of all of the history. We are steps from the Acropolis Museum, the Acropolis, restaurants, shops, and so much more.

We arrived at our B&B, put her feet up for about 15 minutes and then headed out for a free walking tour.

Video: our Bnb for the next 3 nights.plus a rooftop terrace we have yet to check out!

Confession time: we brought with us from home one extra suitcase that we had put in storage when we arrived in Athens. It was a very easy service to drop off and pick up the extra luggage just outside arrivals. We will need the extra supplies we brought for the next and final leg of our adventure. 😉 Having to navigate public transportation with this extra suitcase did make us appreciate the flexible of only having our backpacks.

Lunch on the go.

We met our guide at Thisseos fountain square on the other side of the Acropolis about a 22 minute walk. This was our first day of rain, but it looked like the sky might clear.

We walked around the Agora Athens, which today is a park, but was the vital Market area in Ancient Greek Times. As we came to the Greek Market building (the first shopping center) we also had spectacular views of the Acropolis high on the hill.

The first Shopping mall!

Acropolis

Hadrian’s Library - once a university

Stopping for a word of explanation

The Roman Agora with a nighttime view of the Acropolis

This was a clock tower, using a water clock fed by a spring through an aqueduct system. It also had a sundial as a back up. Amazing engineering.

We strolled through Plaka with its narrow streets, shops & many many restaurants. Our group consisted of 10 people from England, Scotland, Turkey, Germany all of whom had just flown into Athens for a weekend getaway.

The tour ended near the Acropolis Museum and our Bnb. Our guide recommended to us a restaurant away from the busy tourist area which is family run and a favourite of the locals and it was amazing. Probably the biggest and best Moussaka Ed has had yet! And prices were very reasonable.

Needless to say, we have leftovers for lunch tomorrow.

Stay tuned, more to come.

Amazing first morning in Athens!

We signed up for an ebike tour to see the historic city and it didn’t disappoint. Our guide who asked us to call him “K” for short, was very very good. He was born in New York and his family moved back home to Athens when he was 9 so his English was impeccable.

After getting everyone fitted to their bikes we were off and cycling. Most areas we travelled were very quiet streets and easy to navigate.

Our first stop after the biggest climb of the day (which wasn’t bad at all especially on the ebike) offered a spectacular view of the Acropolis.

Back down the hill and our next quick stop at one of the older and very ornate Greek Orthodox Churches.

After meandering through the shopping \240streets of Plaka we stopped for a quick break at the Athens largest cathedral. It is one of the younger churches, (only a couple 100 years old) very ornately decorated inside.

Cathedral courtyard

Inside, beautiful wood and metal decorations.

Next door to the Cathedral was one of the oldest churches still remaining, built during the Bysantine period 1000s of years ago. Very much a contrast in style.

Inside the old chapel.

Our guide timed it perfectly so that we could see the marching of the Guards which happens every hour. All men in Greece still have a draft of 12 months. Only certain individuals and size is a factor can become a guard. After the march, they must stand perfectly still without moving for 60 minutes.

The shoes had spikes hidden under the pom poms and weigh 2.5 kg each. A leg workout with every movement.

After the guard does the march, they get into position and then the supervisor does any final adjustments to ensure everything is perfect. They can not communicate. They have a code they use by blinking their eyes.

It is a prestigious honor to be chosen for the guard positions in the army.

Video 1

Video 2

Video 3

Final inspection.

Our final stop was at the Zappion building, a conference center that has continued to be maintained in the traditional Greek style. One last opportunity for a photo stop.

Back at the bike shop, sad to have the tour end.

Our guide pointed out a famous Greek “donut” made with honey and cinnamon that we took a detour to \240on our way back to our BnB for lunch (and another load of laundry).

This afternoon we spent at the Acropolis Museum. It was built in 2009 over top of the ruins of the ancient city. Many of the floors are built with glass so you can see the ancient rooms as you traverse the ground floor.

Inside the museum offered free wifi and an audio tour that you could follow along using your cell phone. All artifact have been found on the Athens Acropolis site.

The main floor of statues, we were unable to take photos directly, but I was able to get this photo from above.

The incredible detail in these statues was breathtaking. The muscles, clothing, expressions, movement and textures. One statue, it almost appeared that the clothing was translucent which is hard to describe from something carved from marble. Each statue is almost like a news article representing a victory of war, an offering to a god, a statement about an event that may have taken place.

Many of the statues were originally painted in bright and vibrant colours and were not all the stark white as we see them today.

The Parthenon which is the large building on the top of the hill has always been a religious temple however under different periods it has changed based on the ruling government. It was originally built 25 centuries ago! All around this building in a continuous formation were stories carved in the stone. On each gable end, there was a depiction of the birth of Athena, the Goddess of Athens. Originally in one of the rooms there was a statue of her that was \24013 meters tall!

These statues adorned the main courtyard.

Walking through the building the glass give you a complete view of the Acropolis above.

This was a continuous story of 92 panels that depicted a festival in Athens. From offerings, to games, to celebrations.

As we left the Museum, we had another incredible evening view.

We weren’t ready to head in for dinner so we decided to take a Stroll through the Plaka shopping district and to visit Hadrians Arch, with a view of the Acropolis in the background.

Hadrian was a Roman ruler who had a fondness for the Greeks. They actually had a nickname for him called “the little Greek”, but I am not going to try to type the Greek translation of that.

We have had no issues getting around in Athens. Many of the streets in our area are pedestrian only, or one way, so very easy to navigate on foot. We would not however, want to be trying to drive here.

We started our last day here in Athens very early as we headed out for our 8 am timeslot at the Acropolis when it opened. We had read and our guide said to go early to get there before the buses and crowds arrive.

After entering the gates our first stop was at the huge theatre the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Today they still use this space for several outdoor concerts through the summer season. Can you imaging hearing Andrea Bocelli performing a concert here? That would be a dream.

Then we continued climbing the South Slope and through the gates of the Propylaea. What a majestic welcome this structure would make for any guest.

This vantage point also offered a spectacular view of the city and the harbour.

What an entrance!

After entering the gates it was off to the west side to the Old Temple of Athena and the Erechtheum.

And then for the most majestic piece the Parthenon. They are doing great work to restore this building. They say it may take longer to do the restorations than it did to actually build it. It’s like putting a jigsaw together with the millions of fragments they are working with. So many pictures, but here are a few.

This is a great picture of the continuous story telling.

We also had a very special interaction today with the Army guards. (Which we will add to later). As we were waiting for the gates to open a bus arrived and several guards unloaded, and entered the Acropolis. Just as we were heading in they were exciting so we got an up close and personal view. They were wearing the special Sunday uniforms reserved for special occasions and events. One of the unique things is the skirt has 400 pleats. This is to represent the 400 years of the Turkish rule until they were able to reclaim their land and Greek identity.

Note: I was taking a picture of the pleats, not up the skirt! If you look you can see all the layers.

As we started to descend on the North Slope we did run into a bit of rain, however we can’t complain as it’s the only rain we have had since we arrived 3 weeks ago!

We visited the Theatre of Dionysus, who was the first playwrite. Many plays and dances would be performed in this smaller theatre.

Can you imagine sitting for hours in this comfy chair?

After exciting we hit a coffee shop (with heaters) to dry out and warm up before our next adventure.

Each Sunday morning at 11 am there is a special changing of the guard ceremony and parade. We headed off to the Parliament buildings to witness this event. When we arrived spectators were about 3 rows deep and unfortunately the rain was still coming down in a steady drizzle. At 10:50 they announced there would not be a parade today due to the rain. The guards did a quick change, but not much on this hour.

Waiting for the parade.

Parliament Buildings.

Video: not much of a show today.

Of course the rain stopped as we left the Parliament buildings and we then passed through the beautiful Botanical Gardens headed for our next stop.

Our next stop the Panathenaic Stadium. It is one of the only stadiums made entirely of marble. It was built for the modern Olympic Games in 1896. Originally constructed in 330 BCE for the Panathenaea, it was later renovated by Herodes Atticus, giving it a horseshoe shape and marble stands for spectators. The stadium remains a popular tourist attraction and a UNESCO world heritage site.

Today it is used annually as the finish point for the Athens Marathon each year. (Which was last weekend). We had looked into it as they offer a 10 k but it was full from runners from around the world.

From the road/entrance side with flags flying.

We decided to climb to the top for a different vantage point,

Amazing view! Can you imagine thousands of fans cheering the athletes?

At the one side there was a tunnel that led to the change rooms. Today these are a small museum and gift shop. One of the really neat things was many of the Olympic torches were on display on the walls. Made us proud to see the Canadian ones.

Montreal 1976

Calgary 1988

Vancouver 2010

The altar from which the high priestness lights the torch as it begins its journey to the receiving country.

As we left the Stadium we had the opportunity to feel like “Winners”. Well I guess we feel like that every day!

On our walk back we came through Hadrians Arch once again, so we took the opportunity to add a day time picture.

One of these is not like the others!

For those of you looking for a guessing game challenge I have added something into the blog today that is different from the rest.

Can you identify it?

WhatsApp us if you can.

Today we leave Athens. I was here for a day in 2013 and did not really enjoy the city. It was very busy, dirty, crowded, and unfriendly. However being here for the past few days has completely changed my perspective. Walking around the streets has been very safe and comfortable. We were able to spend time exploring the many sights, and sometimes just sitting and taking in the sounds.

Thank you for following along with us on this crazy journey. Today we start a new adventure for us as we embark on a Mediterranean Cruise out of the port of Athens for the next week. \240We are not normally “cruisers” but the off season price was one we couldn’t pass up and a great way to stay in one room, but continue to explore different places.

We are planning to try out a new blog format for this next leg of the journey. If you still want to continue to follow us, send us a note and we will send you the link.