Travel Day!

Leaving the house is always stressful but we made it to the airport with plenty of time to spare and got to hang out in the United Polaris lounge since we are flying business class. One of the nicer lounges we’ve been to!

Polaris was a really lovely experience. Lie flat seats were great. Food was delightful and I watched 3/4 of a newer Jurassic World and laughed my ass off. Bonus was watching a mom try to switch seats with a couple because of the stacked configuration. “My 8 year old will cry all the way to France” “let her cry, you are trying to make me out to be a villain” …people are entitled and the kid was fine! An 8 year old flying business class is ahead of the curve…here we go Paris!

We made it…

Flight landed and we breezed through immigration and decided to take the train in since traffic was not great. I love the Paris trains. They are relatively easy to navigate and come frequently. On the way in I saw strangers helping people on stairs with luggage or baby carriages twice within 20 minutes. We stumbled into the hotel after about an hour after leaving the airport drenched in sweat. It looked like it was going to be colder than it feels (very muggy). The hotel is beautiful and we sat at the bar for a bit before our room was ready. I was thrilled to lie down after many hours of travel. Cody said don’t fall asleep but of course I did. After a nap, we went on a walk around this new neighborhood that we are in. I love watching the people! Lots of hilarious little French children and dogs everywhere.

We decided to have dinner at the hotel because we were so wiped out and our brains stopped functioning. It was all very tasty and now it’s time to crash and hopefully be adjusted to this time zone by the morning!

Thursday is our first real day and we did a pretty good job with the jet lag. Slept in, but eventually got moving for some breakfast from a delicious spot nearby \240(quiche Lorraine, coffee eclair, earl gray tea).

With our bellies filled we thought it might be a good day to hit up the Picasso museum nearby but found that it was in the middle of a cultural strike so decided to avoid museums and not cross the line.

Looking down a street there was a giant and beautiful church so we popped in and it did not disappoint. My desire to see old European churches continues. Incredible art and that old church smell…

Next up was a walk over to the plant gardens, full of tiny children, but also lovely. We made the hilarious mistake of going into a greenhouse where the humidity was insane. So sweaty! We are going through clothes like mad, but the experience was still really beautiful and unique. Sometimes Paris feels very wild and abandoned with the foliage.

We were ready to try out the hotel pool so we walked back. Thankfully no one else was down there that time of day and we splashed around and rotated between the pool and the sauna. Very refreshing!

It was time to meet up with Gaelle so we moseyed over to her neighborhood and had a lovely walk around (another church, a charming row of houses, the area with an amazing view of the city we saw at night last time, an attempt to find a place to grab a drink before dinner). This is an incredible walking city and it feels good to be back. It’s always easier the second time you visit a place and you get to see and understand it differently. Paris feels organized and intentional. Giant, sprawling, busy, but clean and well kept. 2000 years of development and process improvement.

Later we met up with Baptist and went to dinner at a delightful spot in their neighborhood with small plates and wine. No such thing as a quick meal in this country, which I really do enjoy.

We said goodbye and took the metro back to crash. Wonderful day!

Last full day in Paris!

Yesterday we walked 9+ miles and our feet were aching this morning. We treated ourselves to a very slow morning of sleeping in and a dip in the pool/sauna. Once we were rested enough we took Gaelle’s recommendation of a cute vegan cafe in the neighborhood since we were craving vegetables. It was busy and I was hungry. In the midst of my panic the kind Parisian couple next to us reassured us to wave the waitress down (it was not rude). Sometimes when you’re traveling a thumbs up from the locals that you’re doing the right thing really goes a long way.

After fueling up we headed towards the northern suburb of Paris to meet Gaelle and see the Basilica of Saint Denis, a 12th century gothic beauty. It was really stunning and haunted…a section in the crypt really gave me the hebie jeebies! All the kings and Marie Antoinette are buried there. Some of the marble statues were covered in 17th century graffiti (humans really haven’t changed much). Denis was a 3rd century martyr and saint who was beheaded. This church is thought to be the first structure to employ all elements of gothic design.

Once we got our fill of creepy, we headed back into Paris to wander around and watch/gawk at Fete de la musique (world music day) which originated in Paris. As described by Gaelle, every June 21st every amateur musician takes to the street. What a thing to witness! The music was not very good but it was a treat to watch the celebration with local teens (literally everywhere), tourists, and Parisians of all ages. The three of us pushed through the crowds after having a crepe dinner (cody had a crepe with some very advanced meat - andouille de Guemene). We also tried a sour beer at a rare brewery in Paris. We said goodbye to Gaelle and went back to our neighborhood to pack (aka furiously stuff it all back into our very full bags). We took one last stroll around to see a few more bands play before calling it a night!

Only 5.26 miles today walked! Our feet were thankful.

Travel day! Our train left at 10:38am from a close by station so we grabbed a quick breakfast, strapped all of our luggage to ourselves and got moving. It was a quiet Saturday morning in Paris and while leaving was a little sad, it was exciting to think of the next leg of the trip. The train ride went smoothly (once we’d found the right seats), and I read and enjoyed the scenery on our 3 hour 20 minute jaunt down to Marseille.

Mike and Chloe graciously picked us up from the train station and we headed to Menerbes, which is about 1 hour 30 minutes away in a hilariously sized 9 person van. We had a minorly terrifying time finding the house which included a wrong turn into the actual town which was not suited for a car of our size but Mike navigated well!

The villa we are renting for the next week is beyond amazing! Giant and beautiful, surrounded by olives and grapes growing everywhere. The town is above us and just steep 15 minute walk straight up. We settled in with a tour from the property manager and a bottle of wine while we waited for the other 6 to arrive.

We were treated to an incredible sunset, snacks, and pizza for dinner.

Being here feels like a dream!

Our first real day at the villa was beautiful. We had a light breakfast and headed to a close by market to buy fresh and local produce and snacks. Peaches, olives, cheese, cherries, bread!

After we stocked up we wanted to explore a nearby town up on a beautiful hill. We parked the cars and walked up. It was old and beautiful. We stopped at a cafe for a drink and some snacks before heading back to the cars.

Pool time in the afternoon was also very delightful. My gigantic hat is working well and I haven’t gotten sunburnt yet!

Around 5pm the private chef that we hired (and his son) arrived to cook us dinner, which was enormous and elaborate (and equally delicious). Before dinner we decided to hike up to the actual town we are staying in. It wasn’t quite golden hour, but it was still breathtakingly beautiful.

Around 8:30 after many debacles with the gas, we had a starter course of gaspacho and salad, followed by sea bass with a saffron sauce and vegetables. Then came the cheese course, and finally a flaming ice cream cake. Dinner went until midnight and we were all bursting at the seems! We took a midnight stroll around the property to digest and stargaze to wrap up the day!

Also pictured…more churches that we wandered by and I had to see!

Wine tour day! Bright and early British Paul picked us up in a giant van to learn about and taste the regions wines. We went to three wineries and had a beautiful lunch in a tiny town after the first stop. It was really incredible to learn about the craft that the French are so passionate about. The wine was lovely too. At the first stop we were treated to quite the scene…two British tourists managed to get their car stuck over the lip of this ditch where this large tree was. As we sat and sipped we got to see the long and arduous process of getting them out. With a jack and a lot of planks, the nice winery workers freed them. Needless to say, we helped British Paul back out of all of the spots for the rest of the day.

At home around 6pm we took a dip in the light rain. It felt wonderful after a long hot day in the car. Riley and Lucas cooked us all a giant pasta and salad dinner that we ate outside before crashing.

Last two pictures are our bathroom at the villa that I caught when the light was right tonight. I will now be dreaming of a gigantic bathroom forever…

Today we went to Roussillon, a beautiful town nearby known for it’s ochre deposits. It was crowded but a site to see! We hiked around the natural area before packing up to find a lunch spot. The group split and our crew went to this garden restaurant about 10 minutes from the villa that said the kitchen was closed for lunch and then proceed to serve us a bunch of small plates.

Later we had a chill night at the villa. I started to not feel super great and called it an early night with the intent to relax tomorrow while everyone else went out and explored.

Today was a sick day for me! I felt like crap with a sinus cold/bad headache so we stayed back from the group activity and I convalesced poolside/in bed while Cody oiled himself in the sun. I had to skip out on the fancy dinner we pre paid for and passed out early…here’s to feeling better tomorrow!

It’s Cody’s birthday! Thankfully I feel much better today. All symptoms gone except for a scratchy throat, which I can live with.

Thursday is market day in Menerbes so we headed up the hill to check it out. Not as big as other markets but equally charming and not as crowded. The fruit man upsold is on some melons (delicious) and I found Cody a birthday watermelon! We had a hilarious time with the cheese stall where we bought 8 different types of cheese to work towards our goal of trying 40 different cheeses on Friday for the 40th birthday crew.

For lunch we went to the place in town with the incredible outdoor patio with sweeping views and also subpar food. Potentially our worst meal of the trip, but we survived.

Sweating insanely, it was time for the pool! Wasps had invaded and Cody did a genocide using a strainer and the edge of a cup. The ants happily took them away.

Around 6:30 our private chef arrived to cook dinner, which was incredible! We ate and sang Cody happy birthday. Later we went for a nighttime stroll (poked into the graveyard) before bed. Happy 40th birthday Cody!!!

Friday is our last day at the villa. I woke up and my voice was totally shot from my mystery illness and Cody needed to rest and ice his foot so we took a pass from the morning adventures to nearby towns and organized ourselves instead. Laundry dried quickly since it was almost 90 degrees by mid morning! A gigantic grasshopper took over our bathroom and I eventually worked up the courage to send him back outside. Cody and I ransacked the fridge for lunch (thankful for my fish leftovers from the dinner last night), and we also tried to prep for the 40 cheese celebration that was happening when everyone came back.

For the rest of the day we created ornate cheese platters (along with other snacks since we aren’t insane people) and made our way through the variety that was collected throughout the week. We actually overshot and there were 43 different cheeses! Pool, cheese, and Pétanque games, were rotated until we had consumed as much as we could and had to prepare for our 10am departure the next day.

I also requested a cemetery walk at golden hour (which was a little cloudy/smoggy), but still beautiful.

It was a great way to end the week (except for my lingering throat issues), but I will survive. Deeply grateful for Mike buying an insane amount of French digestive candies that are actually the best cough drops! Saving my life!

To Italy tomorrow! 🇮🇹

Saturday is a travel day for us and we had to be out of the villa by 10, but Fredrick was there earlier starting his clean up duties to usher in the next group. I woke up still with no voice and a sore throat, but pushed on with the promise of a pharmacy soon.

We made sure to say our goodbyes - Riley and Lucas were headed to Spain via the train and then home soon after that. Ian, Lindsay, Pez, and Karen were off to the alps and then Paris before heading home. And me, cody, Mike, and Chloe needed to catch the 7:30pm flight to Catania, so we had some time to kill.

First we headed up the hill to get a tea and small breakfast in Menerbes. The wind was insane and our car was covered in a dried mud, which now we understand why all the cars were so dirty when we got to Marsielle. The winds of Provence are famous and we were experiencing Sirocco from the Saraha Desert!

Cafe du progress has been on our list and we wanted to try them for lunch so we killed some time wandering Menerbes and also found me a pharmacy where we fumbled through my symptoms and they gave me a throat spray which cody said is better than the kind you get in the US (lidocaine!) and it helped immediately.

Promptly at noon we came back to the cafe (the French are prompt about lunch) but it was fully reserved so we got a small snack and headed to the lavender Abby to sightsee and kill time before our 1:45pm reservation we were able to make. Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanqu near Gordes was founded in the 12th century and was really beautiful. We didn’t do the tour because it was very crowded and needed to get back for lunch, which was delicious. See video below of me frolicking through the lavender. We said goodbye to Provence and headed back down to Marsielle to return the rental van and catch our flight. Mike very kindly gave us a quick tour of the nicer waterfront area that we hadn’t seen and we accidentally drove through a weird mall hellscape look for fuel.

By the time we got to the airport we were getting super excited for Italy, and then our flight got delayed. The Marsielle airport was not great—no AC, only restaurant was poke (uh no…), and insanely full. We found a table and waited it out.

Ryan Air is an experience. It’s known as the cheap and quick way to fly around Europe, and has 0 frills. We made the best of it (while managing to pick seats in the same row as Mike and Chloe!) by laughing at the insanity of it all (the flight attendants were selling lotto tickets at one point, and then came by later with a perfume cart).

Rather abruptly we landed and close to the end of the flight I started to feel my right ear refuse to pop, which continued for the rest of the night. Now my voice is gone and I can’t hear out of one ear! Not the best, but continue we must.

Finally we got to the hotel, which has the largest ceiling painting I have ever seen! Time to crash!

Our first real day in Sicily! It’s hot and beautiful and my ear is still clogged and my voice is still shot, but persist we must.

The hotel, while strange, has a nice breakfast that is included!

After breakfast we wandered around the area and I remembered immediately how much I love Italy. Catania is beautiful - old and a little falling apart (and covered in graffiti), but also full of tropical plants and deeply southern Italians. The piazza is huge, there are churches at every turn, and I love all the headless statues.

We went to an old castle turned museum where my ears started to pop for the first time in a day! We also bought the tickets to see the caravaggio exhibit, where we saw the women from the Ryan Air flight literally cry screaming through the 15 paintings and also live streaming. Chloe captured a renaissance photo, to be uploaded.

We also had a lovely lunch at Vermut where there were cold drinks, orange and fennel salads, and loaded potatoes. I am so charmed by Italy.

For dinner we had reservations at a really nice tasting menu restaurant, which wasn’t busy but was very delicious and enjoyable. The highlight was the rock that they cracked at the end of the meal (it had been on the table the whole time), and it turned out to be sugar with candies inside! Off to another Sicilian city tomorrow!

It was time to check out of Catania and head to our final destination before we go home and Mike and Chloe embark on the next half of their month long adventure. We decided to start the morning (after hotel breakfast) with the fish market. We went back to one we had already seen and then walked through a more local market and it was a festival for the eyes. We also had to get a granita which is a Sicilian specialty (semi frozen ice desert that can be paired with bread), which we ate at the entrance to a park with \240opera music playing in the background. It was a very Italian moment.

Then we were off to the rental car facility (Italians are terrifying drivers…), and then a drive to a beautiful winery near mount Etna for a tasting and lunch (and beautiful views!). I am quite pleased at the amount of fish we are getting to eat on this trip!!

Mike drove us around beautiful mount etna for a bit before we came back down the mountain (my poor ear) and headed to Syracuse.

As charming as I found Catania in its decrepit and crumbling state, I am so pleased by Syracuse. It’s right on the Mediterranean and we are staying at a beautiful hotel (our room had a terrace!!). Tropical Italy is more spectacular than I could have imagined.

After a quick refresh we had some wine and watched the sky change to night before we wandered out for dinner. This area really takes your breath away with its beauty. All of a sudden we were in the gigantic piazza with restaurants and music and ancient buildings everywhere.

Since it was 9pm we decided we needed to eat soon and found this hilarious seafood restaurant run by an old man who was brash and slightly scary but eventually warmed up to us by the time we left thanks to Chloe inquiring about his dogs name (Jonathan!) and our general good behavior. Anchovy pasta and a tuna steak covered in pistachios and the fennel and orange salad we’ve been getting everywhere! It was great.

I love Italy.

It’s the last travel day of our trip!

We slept in and had the hotel breakfast with Mike and Chloe which was one of the better continental/italian hotel breakfasts I’ve had. Once we were fueled up our only goal was to roam around the city and enjoy the day.

We went to Castello Maniace first, which is a 13th century citadel right on the water. Beautiful! We also went to the Syracuse Cathedral - a temple at this site is prehistoric, and a Greek temple was officially built in the 6th century. It commemorates St. Lucia. I love Italian churches most of all.

We got gelato and a light lunch (salad!) before siesta. After the worst heat of the day passed, we tried to go to the puppet museum, but it was full so we went to Archimede & Leonardo da Vinci Museum Museo Archimede e Leonardo, which was clearly for kids but was also empty and educational. We met back up with Mike and Chloe, pet the many street cats of Syracuse, and then got another delightful Sicilian treat - Seltz Limone and Sale. We dipped our feet in the Mediterranean, saw some ruins, walked around the waterfront where many gigantic yachts were parked before finding a spot to watch the sunset and drink some wine. It was the perfect way to end the trip!

Ciao Italia, mi amore

Time to go home! One last morning selfie in the warm sun, one last terrifying Italian driver to take us to the airport, one last delicious Italian soda in the tiny airport lounge. We connected through Munich via business class tickets. Catania to Munich was just regular seats but no one in the middle! And a small lunch! Delightful, and I was deeply grateful that my ear cooperated!

Munich to SFO was easy - we ate a few times, had one very short nap, and watched many many movies. Our stewardess was an amazing German woman that I really loved. 25 hours awake, time to crash!

Ciao, Jody