The travellers
Farewelled by Doug
Here we are - ready to go, and
Our adventure is about to begin ....
The day dawned very wet but our enthusiasm was not dampened!
John picked us up as arranged and a very uneventful trip to the airport. First in line for check-in with plenty of time for coffee and refreshments before saying our goodbyes.
The travellers
Farewelled by Doug
Here we are - ready to go, and
Our adventure is about to begin ....
Left Hong almost on time and an uneventful flight to Tel Aviv, arriving to an almost empty airport due to it being a Saturday (the Sabbath).
We Lo aded our gear into a sherut and waited and waited and waited for a full carload before leaving for the hours drive to Jerusalem, arriving at St Georges around 9.45am. It seemed like we had already been up and about for ever.
We appear to be the first students to have arrived. \240We were shown to our rooms and after showers regrouped for finding somewhere for lunch.
Stuart and Jo are excellent tour guides having been to Jerusalem (and the College) before and so our adventures began.
We started with a very short explore of the Cathedral and environs so we would know where to find breakfast in the morning.
Then off we went, down to the old city entering through the \240Damascas Gate. \240We wandered the maze of tiny laneways and streets all crammed with various market goods. \240Lunch of hommus and falafel with flatbread was excellent at Abu Shukri Restuarant. Down past The Holy Sepulchre to the very bottom of the Old City wandering through more laneways and eventually coming to the Western Wall, formerly the Wailing Wall. \240After a security check we were in the square but no photos were permitted though Jacqui had managed one before we realised. \240Beck was wearing shorts and required a wrap-around skirt to enter the ladies section. \240Normally the square is a heaving mass of humanity but today, being the Sabbbath it was very quiet.
We then began wending our way back up the hill to the College via the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which is considered to be the site of the burial and crucifixion of Jesus. \240There were many people touching and kissing a piece of marble at the entrance, believing it would heal them. \240It is thought that Jesus was laid on a similar marble slab when he was brought from the cross and before burial. \240 There are a number of smaller chapels within, one of which was a centuries old burnt alter that no one has thought to restore. \240In another chapel there was a tiny entrance in the wall where, if you went down some very old stairs you would find two tombs. \240The Crusaders also have their cross in one chapel and there are wall markings believed to have been made by the Crusaders.
It was quite a hot day, so freshly squeezed pomegranate juice revived bodies considerably. \240Finally the weary travellers made it back to College for a well-deserved rest.
We headed out for dinner, first stopping for drinks at The American Colony Hotel, and then on to the Azzahra Restaurant for a Palestinian \240feast. \240So far we have shared all plates at meals and tonight we shared a \240chicken dish, a lamb dish, a mixed grill and halloumi salad. \240All were wonderful. A dish of sliced watermelon refreshed our palates wonderfully.
Footsore and weary we returned to the College for a well earned rest.
Sunset coming in to Hong Kong
Our plane being loaded
Coming in to Tel Aviv airport
Inside the terminal
We have arrived.
We woke to another sunny and hot Jerusalem day. \240Today in Australia it is Father's Day whilst in Jerusalem it is Jo's birthday. \240Breakfast comprised cereals, raw vegetables, yoghurt, slabs of feta cheese, boiled eggs, hot mixed vegetables, dates and many other lovely things.
At 10am the Australian contingent joined in the celebration of the Eucharist at St George's Cathedral with our fellow Arabic Christians. \240The service was conducted in both languages - sometimes singly and sometimes together. \240All hymns were sung in both languages simultaneously, the sermon presented in it's entirety in English first followed by the Arabic version. \240The Creed and Gloria were both spoken simultaneously and Lord's Prayer and The Sanctus sung in Arabic. \240A very moving experience.
As the course had not yet commenced \240we caught the tram to Mahane Yehuda, the North Jerusalem markets. \240These were a lot cleaner and more spacious than those in the old city where we were yesterday. \240We found the Azzahra restaurant where we celebrated Jo's birthday. This restaurant is known for the best hommus in Jerusalem and it was excellent. We enjoyed the meal immensely.
Again we wandered through the markets admiring the spices and various fresh ingredients for teas in particular, and marvelled at the varieties of havla. \240We then walked downhill to the King David Hotel, where, hot and bothered we found a table in the garden for afternoon tea. \240Apple strudel had been recommended and Stuart thought that could be Jo's 'birthday cake'. \240However ..... the afternoon tea pastries and desserts on offer were rather scant and there was no strudel. \240After some discussion we decided to move on and came back up to the old city through the New Gate to the Austrian Hospice. \240Entry is by knocking on a door which, after opening reveals three flights of stairs onto a lovely courtyard. \240We enjoyed well-earned cold drinks and apple strudel and sang Happy Birthday.
Once refreshed we wended our way back up through the Muslim \240Quarter to the Damascas Gate and back to the college.
At 6pm we, together with the other course participants attended the Opening Eucharist at St George's Cathedral, this time entirely in English. \240One US group had only just arrived, so joined us later for drinks before going through for dinner in the Guest House courtyard. \240There appears to be a fair sprinkling of clergy in the group!
Slept well after a long day!
Breakfast this morning was very similar to the previous day and already we are becoming familiar with what we wish to have. \240At every meal there have been two large bowls of olives - one green and one black. These olives are from the trees in the St George compound and are wonderful. \240They all come from the same tree - the green being less ripe and the black are the ripened fruit! \240In a few weeks time the new crop will be harvested and pickled ready for the following courses to enjoy.
We then had our Course Photo taken in the area outside the College door. In the lecture room we learnt the about procedures and protocols to follow while in Israel as well as having a geo-historical introduction to Jerusalem to assist with understanding some of the bible stories eg the man who was healed by Jesus at the Bethesda pool.
We boarded the bus and visited two lookouts at the Mount of Olives. The first we faced east and looked out over the dessert waste land across Bethany towards the Jordan River and beyond as far as Jericho. \240The hills in the distance were covered in a heat haze and the topography was very barren. \240At the second lookout we looked out over Jerusalem. \240Wow! \240The Dome of the Rock on Temple Mount makes quite the statement. \240We looked out over the Jewish burial grounds to the Kedron Valley, past the Muslim burial grounds and then up to the Dome of the Rock on Mt Moriah. \240Mt Zion was off to our left. \240The old city walls are absolutely immense.
Lunch was at the College before walking down to the old city through Herod's Gate into the Muslim Quarter. \240The Pools of Bethesda are at the bottom of the hill where the water coming through the ravines in Biblical times would fill the pools. \240They were extraordinaryly deep - at least 150 feet. \240There appears to be quite a lot of excavation, particularly regarding a church badly built by the Crusaders over the Pools.
We conducted our own healing liturgy at the very new Pilgrims' Chapel before going in to St Anne's to sing two hymns unaccompanied.
Back to the College for dinner - tonight salmon and mashed potato and the usual olives etc.
We seemed to be a little more organised this morning and again enjoyed our new normal breakfast. \240A new chef started at the College yesterday and they are hoping for great things - he is the former chef of the French Embassy. \240We have not yet noticed any changes.
A short briefing in the lecture room before traveling by bus out past the beautiful Notre Dame of Jerusalem Centre Hotel on our way to Ein Kerem and The Church of the Visitation. \240Ein Kerem is believed to be the birthplace of John the Baptist and is situated in the hills of Judea just outside Jerusalem. \240Mary's Spring is still providing water as it has done for hundreds of years. \240The valleys are so very deep and there is much more vegetation. \240The climb up the hill to The Church of the Visitation is quite lengthy and challenging in the heat. \240There is a beautiful mosaic of Mary riding a donkey to visit Elizabeth. \240The word MAGNIFIC is inlaid into the entrance floor and opposite are 42 large ceramic tablets bearing the verses of the Magnificat in as many different languages.
The lower church has a well in the crypt which celebrates where Elizabeth and her infant drank. There are three beautiful frescoes showing Gabriel announcing to Zachary that he us going to have a son, the next depicts Elizabeth and Mary and the third Elizabeth hiding the baby John the Baptist during the murder of the young boys. There is also a cleft in a rock where it is believed Elizabeth hid with the baby to avoid him being slaughtered.
The upper church is dedicated to Mary and many paintings depict various scenes honouring her.
We wound our way back down the steps, onto the bus and off to Beit Sahour to visit a wonderful Christian Palestinian craft shop before arriving at the Tent Restaurant in Beit Sahour for lunch. \240Food was wonderful, no meat but many salads, hommus, babaganoush, falafels etc. \240Very good!
The very nature of being a pilgrim in Israel means that you visit a lot of churches. \240So to Bethlehem we go. \240I was surprised that the original Bethlehem village was at the top of a hill and we learnt that in Jesus' day probably about 300 to 400 people lived there. \240It was very easy to visualise shepherds on the hillsides even though today 3 large cities cover the same hills.
Bethlehem Church of the Nativity Chapel and Tomb of St Jerome was very busy with many large groups visiting. \240We wound our way down ancient stairs to one of many caves to view the 'actual' spot where it is believed Jesus was born. \240It is marked by a star and people kneel down to touch and kiss the star. \240In a grotto at the side is an alter celebrating the nativity. \240We were fortunate to be there when crowds were less than usual but it was still quite crowded in a very tiny area. \240The church has been extensively restored and the original columns have been cleaned for the first time in hundreds of years. \240They have just discovered a baptisminal font from the 4th century, not yet on display. \240There are wonderful mosaic tapestries and friezes.
Of the side of Manger Square is St Catherine's Church and again there are many many caves under the church. \240The chapel of St Jerome is a large cave which is now a chapel. \240We were all settled to hold a liturgy when some monks arrived for mass, so we moved outside to the square and had a short service and sang Christmas carols. There is a wonderful sculpture of St George as you leave the church.
Our final destination for the day was The Walled Off Hotel, still in Bethlehem. \240It is a quirky Banksy designed boutique hotel at the Israeli West Bank barrier which has a museum and gallery. \240The hotel is opposite The Wall of Separation where the Israelis have allowed many protest banners to remain painted on the wall.
Back to the Guest House for our evening meal.
An early departure as today we were going into the silence of the Judean wilderness. However, just on the outskirts of Jerusalem our almost brand new bus blew a water hose! \240Our driver was fantastic and after driving to one garage that didn't have the required hose, then to another with the same outcome we finally arrived at a huge truck/bus repair place and were once again on our way.
Mary June then rearranged our program so as to not crisscross quite so much. Rather than going into the wilderness in the cool of the morning we went straight to the Jordan River.
We arrived at Kasr al Yahud, the site of Jesus' baptism on the Jordan. \240Today the river is only about 10 metres wide at this point, whilst it is believed to have been around 100 metres wide when John baptised Jesus. \240Two of our number were baptised, a number of us renewed our baptismal vows while others simply put their feet in the river. \240We sat quietly and participated in a Liturgy of Renewal of Baptism Vows at the side of the river.
From Jordan you can also access the river directly opposite where we were.
And so our Dead Sea adventure then began. \240We drove to a kibbutz called Neve Midbar where there is a beach that you can walk down and into the water. \240All the Aussie girls went into the water together with bishop Peter who can be a lot of fun. \240We dutifully covered ourselves with mud and washed it off again. \240Peter's psoriasis was significantly improved! \240This is the lowest place on earth, and quite a lot of the valley is also below sea level. \240The Dead Sea used to be lots bigger and there is concern that it will completely be dry in the not too distant future as no water now flows into it.
We lunched in Jericho at the Sultana Restaurant along with other pilgrims.
After lunch we travelled out into the wilderness of the Judean Dessert in the West Bank. \240Here we visited the excavations of the Qumran where once a whole community of monks - the Essenes - wrote what we now know as the Dead Sea Scrolls. They were written 2,000 years ago. It is believed that no women lived there. \240There are many caves and it is in these that the scrolls were found. Using modern technology it is now understood that all the scrolls have been recovered. \240Cave 4 was pointed out to us as a significant cave where many scrolls were found. \240These caves don't appear to have been used for dwellings.
In the Judean wilderness is Wadi Qelt, a very deep ravine in the West Bank originating near Jerusalem and running into the Jordan river near Jericho. \240We followed this ravine for quite some distance, climbing high up into the wilderness. \240A short walk along the hillside and we were opposite the Monastery of St George Kosiba. \240It hangs onto cliff and has been inhabited since around AD 500. \240Today 6 Greek Orthodox monks call it home. \240It is quite astonishing. We ended our day with prayer at the lookout but didn't stay too long as Mary June was worried about the heat - it was very, very hot! \240We all imagined ourselves being in that dessert region for 40 days and no-one wanted to do that!
Another evening meal was enjoyed in the gardens of the Guest House.
Today we headed out of Jerusalem early on our way to the Sea of Galilee. We followed the Jordan Valley through Jericho and on to Capernaum. \240We saw several shepherds leading their herds out onto the mountains for the day, some walking, one on a camel and another on a donkey. \240We also saw many Bedouin villages on the hillsides. VThe valley is very fertile and we passed date plantations, orchards of mango, stoned fruits and citrus, banana plantations grown by both the Jordanians and Israelis. \240The arid conditions have been creatively used and irrigated from the Jordan river which is leading to issues of water usage in the future. We passed the hillside where Jesus drove out the evil spirits into a herd of pigs and into the sea.
The sea is fresh water, and in Jesus' time was a lot bigger as it too has become smaller over time. \240It is still a very impressive body of water. \240In the days when Jesus was here there were 14 quite sizeable towns scattered around the edge of the Sea and in any given day it is estimated there would have been 3,000 vessels on the water! \240Capernaum was a large developed border town of say 2000 people. \240It is believed that there was quite a wide variation in incomes and that it was not a dirt poor town as it had an ample water supply.
The deciples Peter, Andrew, James, John and Matthew all came from Capernaum. It is in the synagogue in Capernaum that Jesus 'read' from the scriptures. \240We visited a late 4th century synagogue believed to have been built on the remains of the 'Synagogue of Jesus'. \240The base is Capernaum basalt rock but the top layers are white Jerusalem rock which makes it a bit of a mystery as to who funded and built the new synagogue. Perhaps the Christians? \240Immediately beside this structure we can see the layout of how many families lived in groups - there are perhaps 6 dwellings here.
We then came to what archeologists believe is Peter's house. \240It is almost certain that Jesus would have stayed at Peter's house when in Capernaum. \240Today there is a modern worship space built over the ruins which we were unable to enter as mass was in progress.
In the courtyard outside there are many pieces of stone from the original synagogue displayed, together with other ancient building blocks.
We then boarded the bus and made our way to the Church of the Multiplication in Tabgha. This church, also known as the Church of Heptapegon, marks the place where it is believed Jesus fed the 5,000 with the five loaves and two fishes. \240There is a large baptisminal font just before you enter the church and Beck helped Mary-June explain how it would have been used. \240There are some very old preserved mosaic tiles in a very modern but beautiful church. \240The way the various churches have been built on top of each other was fascinating.
Our next stop was St Peter's Primacy / Mensa Christi on the shore of the Lake. \240Each new Pope visits this church and is blessed next to a large rock. \240This is where, after the resurrection Peter came to Jesus across the water to have the breakfast that Jesus had prepared on the beach. \240The College traditionally blesses any Bishop who is on a course at this rock, and so William prayed over Peter. \240Many of us then walked down that same beach and paddled in the water. \240Most of the Aussies in the group put their feet in the water unaware that they were shaded by a gum tree!
Lunch at Beatitudes Guest House, almost at the very top of the Mt of Beatitudes. \240We could choose between chicken schnitzel or whole Peter fish for lunch. \240We then had a time of quiet reflection at the lookout overlooking the Sea of Galilee.
Our last experience for the day was a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee. \240Our boat was called Matthew. \240Very recently someone found something poking up from the thick, sticky muck under the sea. \240Further investigation uncovered a complete wooden single masted boat from the first century. \240The sea was very low at the time and the thick muck had prevented oxygen getting through and thus the boat was preserved. \240It was too late in the day for us to see it.
We were caught in an awful traffic jam between Cana and Nazareth, only a few miles apart, and were late getting in to the hotel in Nazareth where we stayed for 2 nights. \240After dinner we all met and talked about what we have seen and thought over the past few days.
After breakfast at the hotel we set out for Mount Tabor also known as The Mount of the Configuration.
We passed through the Jezreel Valley where the prophet Deborah defeated the army of the Canaanites even though they had chariots! \240This valley today is Israel's main agricultural food bowl and it is absolutely beautiful. \240100% of grain grown today is returned compared to only 10% in ancient times. As always water is the key in this dry land. Many springs form at the base of the mountains, and together with run-off has allowed the valley to be so furtile.
Mount Tabor rises at the end of the valley and we saw many hang-gliders in the sky. \240The road is too narrow and steep for our bus so we transferred into smaller vans which wound up the mountain.
The Franciscan Church of the Transfiguration is quite modern and stunningly beautiful. Above the alter on the upper level is a wonderful mosaic depicting the transfiguration.
Bishop Peter led us in a Eucharist in a beautiful modern side chapel. \240Our Nepalese friends sang a song in their language and Stuart gave the sermon. \240At all services we sing from The Geoges College hymnal which is a collection of various hymns - some known and some unknown. \240Our chaplain usually leads, as does the Dean if he happens to be part of the group.
After lunch at Mount Tabor we visited excavation sites in Sepphoris (Zippori) National Park. Sepphoris was a prosperous village about 5 miles from Nazareth and it is highly likely that Jesus and his disciples visited and were known there. \240It was a highly developed 3rd century Roman city and Mary June was the archeologist in-charge of a dig that discovered 'the beautiful woman' in the Dionysus House mosaic. \240Our first stopping point was in the lower section of the excavated city to view a very large pagan villa with the most wonderful mosaics - the owner had to have had considerable wealth and influence. \240We walked on the two main Roman streets of the old city and could make out ruts left from the steel wheels of wagon carts. Several paving stones also had games scratched into them - we have subsequently seen many of these stones. We walked up to the higher level, passing an amphitheater which seated 4,500 people on our way to see the amazing mosaics in the Dionysus House. Then down past a prickly pear forest to sit in a 5th century synagogue.
Back to our hotel in Nazareth for dinner and reflections.
Today after breakfast we walked in to the Old City of Nazareth to visit the excavations under the courtyard of the Sisters of Nazareth. \240Some archaeological findings have been dated to the first century. \240There are underground rooms and tombs and a well which has been named Mary's well. It may well have been the home of Mary and Joseph and baby Jesus. There is a beautiful statue of the Holy Family in the courtyard. \240The whole complex is in \240celebration of motherhood, especially Mary.
Almost next door is the Basilica of the Annunciation, established over the site which the Catholic tradition believes to be the house of the Virgin Mary, and where the Angel Gabriel appeared to Mary. The fourth church in the same place, this time a Basilica, was completed in 1969 and many nations of the world donated mosiac wall panels in celebration of Gabriel's visit to Mary. \240The church is a beautiful large space with lovely panelled floors. The lower level contains the Grotto of the Annunciation, believed by many to be the childhood home of Mary.
Our walk through Nazareth brought us to St Gabriel's (Greek) Orthodox Church, which is quite tiny. The church has many wall paintings, statues and chandeliers. The sound of running water from Mary's Spring, together with the warm, bold colours of all the banners etc makes it quite a special place.
We visited a local spice shop on our way to lunch at The Mill Restaurant, still in Nazareth.
The bus journey back to Jerusalem was uneventful with very little traffic as it was still the Sabbath.
Another early start with the bus taking us to Dung Gate so we could visit the Muslim Haram Al-Sharif (The Noble Santurary) - The Temple Mount. \240Unfortunately we did not receive permission to enter the Haram buildings. \240The whole area covers some 37 acres and is owned by the Muslim community. Mary June pointed out many of the architectural features of various buildings. Herod the Great built the huge surrounding retaining walls that still exist today. \240The very first Temple was built by King Solomon in 957BC and recent excavations have revealed two of his walls. \240It is possible to stand on the top of Solomon's wall! \240The Dome of the Rock is an extraordinary building with wonderful mosaics, completed in 692 and it is understood to be very close to the area where the Holy Temple first stood.
We then wound our way down to the Western Wall (formerly Wailing Wall) and today photos were allowed.
Before visiting the excavations south and west of the Temple Mount, we watched a short video on the rituals required before presenting a sacrifice at the temple in Jesus' time. \240We made our way to the excavations and saw many of King Herod's building features that have been revealed during various digs. A ritual bath has been uncovered as well as the remains of where Robinson's arch joined with the court system. \240We sat on the temple steps that Jesus and his disciples would have walked and had a devotional.
It was our first free afternoon and we were each given 50 shekels to purchase lunch. \240About 8 or so of us decided to return to Abu Shukri restaurant as lunch there was so good. \240It was very hot and thought a taxi from Dung gate to the Damascas Gate would be sensible. \2405 of us were installed into a taxi and then we sat for a good 10-15 minutes. \240The poor driver had apparently been at the stand for too long and was booked! \240He said some days, like this day, you are booked if you are there longer than 5 minutes and other days you can be there all day and all is good. \240This is Jerusalem.
After lunch we came out of the old city through Herod's Gate and visited the Rockefeller Museum. \240Quite interesting but seemed not to be in any sequential order. \240There was a lovely statue of a shepherd boy carrying a sheep on his shoulders.
We stopped for refreshing drinks at The American Colony Hotel on the way back to the College for dinner.
After dinner we had a briefing in the lecture room about what to expect when we went The Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
A nightcap at The American Colony Hotel seemed appropriate at the end of a very hot day.
Today was a day when we saw and learnt about a number of quite sad episodes.
Our first stop was to visit the Princess Basma Centre which is predominately a rehabilitation centre for disabled children and is supported by the Diocese of Jerusalem. \240They work with each child on an individual basis so that they can be integrated into the community. \240To assist with this they have established a normal school on the premises of which about 38% are children with special needs. \240They are doing a marvellous job. \240The great sadness is that the predominate disability is Cystic Fibrosis mostly caused by lack of oxygen during the birth process. \240Giving birth as an Israeli allows you the very best of medical care, however if you are a Palastinian the same does not apply!
We then began our 'Palm Sunday' walk from Bethphage Church on the Mount of Olives. \240There is a large decorated rock in the church which is supposed to be the rock Jesus stood on to mount the donkey. \240We all thought it must have been rather a tall donkey! \240Bethphage and Bethany abut each other but the Wall of Separation comes right between the two! \240We stopped several times for readings and reflections on our walk down. \240Unfortunately we were unable to enter the Church of Dominicus Flevit - the Lord Wept - as the crowds were too large.
At the bottom of the Mount of Olives and before crossing the Kedron Valley to climb up to Jerusalem is the Garden of Gethsemane and Church of all Nations. The Garden is particularly quiet and reflective, as is the Church. It has beautiful purple stained glass windows the are quite poignant and calming.
We returned to the Guest House for lunch before heading to Yad vaShem (Holocaust Memorial).
The Museum is stunning, a large long triangular building where you criss-cross from side to side to view the harrowing exhibits. \240As we exited Dean Richard led us to both the Hall of Remembrance and the Children's Memorial. \240A very tastefull reflection of the most horrifying world event.
After dinner we participated in reflections concluding with Compline.
Today started with breakfast at 7 and we have only now come back to our room. It is 10pm!
We left the College at 7.45, walking down to the old city through the Damascas Gate to walk the 14 Stations of the Cross, taking turns to carry a large wooden cross. \240We were asked not to speak or take photos. At each station we read a relevant passage and sang a hymn that I didn't know. It was quite a powerful experience.
The final stations are at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre which are believed with some certainty to be the sites of both Jesus' tomb and Calvary. It was extraordinarily crowded, and we lined up early in order to visit Jesus' tomb. It was quite a long wait, and only three or four were allowed in at the same time. The guard on duty made sure that phones and cameras were put away and thumped quite forcefully on the wall when your time was up.
Today we had our only mid-morning tea/coffee break where we spread ourselves over a number of small cafes. A rather large pet parrot who was perched at the end of a counter gave me a peck on my side as apparently I got too close to him!
We were expected at the Maronite Convent inside Jaffa gate at 12.30 for lunch and ran out of time to visit Calvary. \240It was our second free afternoon and Mary June offered to take people back after lunch, but most of us couldn't face the crowds again as it was extremely hot and humid!
A number chose to go back to the college via The Garden Tomb - once thought the be Christ's burial place. It gives a more authentic idea of what the tomb may have looked like. We dumped our 'day bags - read backpacks' - in our room, I went up and unpegged our washing, and then off we went again to the pottery and souvenir shops. We stopped at the American Colony Hotel for coffee before arriving back at the College in time for Evening Prayer and dinner.
After dinner Stuart was happy to take anyone who wanted to go back to the Holy Sepulchre to visit Calvary. We had to really scoot as the church closed at 8pm. I am so pleased that I went with him - it seemed so unfinished not to do so.
The American colony hotel is just down the street and it is a very pleasant place to have a drink. Those of our group who didn't head back into the city had gone across there, so we joined them on our return.
It was a leasurly start to the day. \240We were given time to pack and generally tidy up loose bits and pieces before climbing aboard the bus for our last day.
Today we are visiting the Israel Museum. \240It is a wonderful complex of many different structures and buildings. \240We started by looking at a model of Jerusalem which somehow helped to piece together all the places we had been to and seen. \240Parts of the model are now inaccurate but that didn't matter at all. \240We then ventured inside to the Dead Sea Scrolls - they are truly amazing.
We could then either stay with Mary June or do your own thing, meeting in the Mansfield Cafeteria for lunch. \240Jacqui and I went with Mary June and saw many treasures from very ancient times. An old Canaanite alter, Copper and Stone Age items, Canaanite items from before Isaac and Jacob, a recently discovered head made of some form of glass which has been dated back to around 600BC, ivory from Jezebell's palace and much more. \240There was a silver plaque inscribed with a verse which dated back to 600BC and is the oldest known written verse. \240There were many items from very early New Testament times including bone boxes etc.
Lunch was well deserved and was magnificent. \240It was a 'dairy' cafe which translates as vegetarian. \240Beautiful salads, pasta, quiches, breads and drinks. \240When we were all completely satisfied, out came the desserts! \240And they were sensational. Little treats of every kind imaginable.
Once back at the College we assembled in the lecture room to debrief and talk about the time we had spent together. The Dean presented each one of us with a Certificate, together with a College year tile. \240We were then served drinks and nibbles at the College entrance before moving across for our last meal together. \240
A number of us also visited the American Colony again before retiring for the night.
Breakfast seemed quite different this morning as many people had started their homeward journey from very early in the morning.
The 6 Sydneysiders set out fairly early for our last foray in the Old City. We decided to walk around the outside of the old city walls until we ran out of time, starting at Damascus Gate. Down and down and down the hill we went and in to the valley, and back up again, coming back in to the city at Zion Gate. David's tomb was there but it was a bit icky, so we meandered up through the Jewish quarter and back to our favourite place for lunch. There were not many people there when we arrived but by the time we had finished it was quite the problem squeezing back out again. The main offender, a big arrogant man who had calmly squished me in had already knocked a bottle of water all over one of his own party! He also casually manhandled my water bottle, so that was our cue to leave!
Some last minute shopping was done on the way back at the College. \240Beck was leaving Jerusalem at 1.30 to catch her flight to Edinburgh, hence our morning excursion.
We were settling down for a rest when Jo accidentally dropped and smashed a little pottery dish that she was taking home for Beck. \240I accompanied her back to the store in the old city where it was bought. \240We unfortunately couldn't find another blue bowl so settled on a green in the same design instead.
Last night we discovered that the American Colony Hotel was established by the Spaffords. Horatio Spafford was the American man whose four daughters perished when their boat was rammed as they were crossing the Atlantic. \240When he undertook the same voyage to bring his rescued wife home the Captain pointed out the spot where the accident happened. \240Horatio penned the words to the hymn 'Be Still My Soul' over the place where his family had drowned. \240Before going to dinner we dropped in to the hotel and found framed newspaper articles describing the accident and how the Spaffords moved to Jerusalem and established what is now the American Colony Hotel.
Stuart had booked us in for a cheese platter on the rooftop of Notre Dame Hotel for dinner. \240It was quite a pleasant walk across to East Jerusalem and we enjoyed meat and dessert platters as well. \240A lovely rose complimented the meal wonderfully. It was quite magical looking over the city at sunset and watching all the lights come on.
We had eaten outside in the college courtyard every night - the nights are so balmy it is very pleasant.
After our last breakfast at the College we packed our bags, enjoyed one last coffee from Stuart's coffee bar and waited for our sherut. \240William and Richard both farewelled us, which was lovely.
Today begins our adventures in Tel Aviv. \240We arrived at the hotel around midday and then walked towards the beach to find somewhere for lunch and to orientate ourselves. \240We lunched at Greg Cafe and walked across to the beach. \240The area has a similar feel to the Bondi area of Sydney. There are many jewellery and high fashion stores in this part of Tel Aviv with mopeds and bicycles charging along the streets. \240The most popular store however was the ice cream parlour!
Back to Hotel Rothschild 22 for checking in and a restful afternoon. Our hotel is in the very centre of the city and is really quite swanky. Press button light switches, shower head as big as a dinner plate and a mini expresso coffee machine. Our key is required to operate the lift where from the lobby you select the floor number and are then directed to a particular lift - no buttons whatsoever in the lift itself. The room is quite compact with nowhere really to place suitcases, but very comfortable.
We happily returned to our hotel after eating at a 'fine dining' restaurant called Claro. The food scene here is quite something. The others all had Spanish Mackerel and I had sea fish that was somehow smoked and had a mustardy flavour. You nominate the weight of the fish you wish to eat and you are charged accordingly. \240The restaurant has a philosophy of local paddock to plate food, was wonderful and we shared two desserts - a bread and butter pudding and a pomegranate light as air dessert.
Breakfast at The Rothschild Hotel is wonderful! \240The array of foods is totally mind-blowing - there is even a section of Russian delicacies! Dried, real and preserved fruits, cold meats, salmon, tuna many ways, an enormous selection of cheeses, eggs at least 4 different ways, cereals, breads and pastries, juices, teas, coffees, the usual array of fresh and cooked vegetables plus hummus and yoghurt.
Not exactly sure what the plans are for today as a lot of places are closed because it is the Sabbath. We thought that we would go to the old port city of Jaffa as it is a tourist attraction, should be open and we can walk there.
We farewelled Mary a little after 10 and then followed a self-guided walking tour we found on Jacqui's phone through the port city of Old Jaffa. Old Jaffa is on a headland with wonderful views over the beaches and port. \240The buildings and alleyways are quite lovely, though not all are significantly old, many being built after 1800. \240We found the remains of an ancient Egyptian monumental gate dating back to Ramessess II (13th century BC) as well as a 'Statue of Faith' which celebrates Jacobs Dream, The Sacrifice of Isaac and The Fall of Jericho. \240Jaffa oranges started to be exported in the mid 19th century and there is a suspended orange tree in celebration. \240The house of Simon the Tanner still stands, though you cannot enter it. \240Peter the apostle is believed to have raised Tabitha from the dead here as well as seeing his vision regarding eating unclean animals.
Throughout the whole trip I have been surprised where towns and villages actually were and again I was surprised as I thought Jaffa was a good 20 or 30 miles further north.
We watched the boats on the harbour for a little while before a late lunch of two Pastie type things which we shared between the four of us. \240
Jacqui and I had a short rest in the afternoon as we are finding Tel Aviv more humid than Jerusalem and again quite hot.
Tonight we ate with the locals at a place called Suzana which was not so expensive. \240Stuart and Jo are quite generous and insisted on shouting us! \240They are enjoying being able to walk to the beach for a swim without being recognised.
To us, this city seems much more cosmopolitan that Jerusalem with many more Asian and European influences. \240It is a young and vibrant city with lots of young families. \240There seems to be more nationalities here with apparently 15% of the population being Russian. A lot more flesh is also on display with very few women fully veiled.
We met at 8.30 for breakfast - the same amazing spread as yesterday. \240We decided to explore a different area of Tel Aviv and headed out to Carmel Markets and then on to look at the various architectural style of buildings, particularly those of the 'White City' as Tel Aviv has the largest concentration in the world of International Style (Bauhaus) buildings located in the historic downtown area. \240It has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. \240A number of these buildings house museums of one kind or another but all were closed on Sundays.
Not far from our hotel we found the Library - well the building. \240We think the books must be on higher levels, however there was an amazing photographic display of Tel Aviv in the early 1900's. \240Also at the entry level were beautiful mosaics including a depiction of Jonah and the Whale. \240Carmel Markets were very busy with a wonderful array of fresh produce and spices. \240From there we headed to Bialik Square admiring selected buildings on the way. \240Tsina Dizengoff Square is the world's only 'Bauhaus Piazza' - it is strikingly simple - \240a round space with a pond in the centre surrounded by nearly identical buildings, each featuring curvilinear horizontal split balconies. \240Lunch in a nearby shopping mall was a welcome relief from the heat.
We meandered back to the hotel for a short rest. \240Jo and Stuart went back to the beach for a swim and Jacqui and I wandered up Rothschild Boulevard, stopping for hot chocolate and milk shakes.
Pre dinner drinks on the 10th floor, and then to Yashka for kebabs for an easy meal. \240After dinner drinks at a bar across the road also called Rothschild 22 - the name of our hotel - ended a very pleasant day.
Today is a travelling day. \240After breakfast we met up in the hotel lobby for a taxi to the airport. \240We had been advised to allow plenty of time as one never quite knew what to expect. \240We had been thoroughly prepared as to what might or might not happen - sometimes there is quite an interrogation regarding your visit to Israel - where were you staying, why did you come, are you in a group (the answer is always no apparently) how long were you here, who did you meet - and so forth. \240We passed security with no issues other than I made the alarms rings for some strange reason. \240But it was a long day of just hanging around as our flight didn't leave until around 3pm.
An uneventful flight but not pleasant regarding timing. \240We were served drinks and nibbles a little way into the flight, then lunch (by then it was about 5.30pm or so Tel Aviv time). The aircraft was darkened as they do for sleeping, but hang on! It was only 7pm. Most settled in for some screen stuff before settling down for the night but breakfast was then served 2 hours out of Hong Kong (in reality 10 pm Tel Aviv time). We landed just after 5am Hong Kong time (just after midnight Tel Aviv time) so we really missed a sleeping night.
We landed in Hong Kong just after 5am after very little sleep. We caught the Airport Express train to Hong Kong and a taxi to the hotel, arriving around 7am. \240Of course our room was not ready given check in time is 3pm. Full credit to them, they told us to come back at 10.30 and our room would be available. \240We sat for a while, wandered around a bit to get our bearings, found a Pret A Manger where we lingered over coffee and came back to the hotel. We hit the room, made contact with Stuart and Jo and said we needed to sleep and fell asleep for a few hours.
We were not sure what they wanted to do but we decided to not try and link up as we were all a bit crabby.
After our sleep Jacqui and I walked down to the metro and caught the train to the main waterfront area, reminiscent of Circular Quay. We did 3 circuits of the Observation Wheel (London Eye) and then checked out the Maritime Museum. \240We decided to have dinner at our hotel and had a buffet meal which was particularly lovely. \240A lot of seafood, some of which we had no idea what it was, many Asian meats, buns and rice etc. \240No hummus! \240As we neared the end of our meal we felt excitement brewing and queues forming. \240The chef appeared at a specially set up table and started carving an enormous Beef Wellington. \240As we were leaving there was a repeat performance, this time for Peking Duck!
We have felt perfectly safe - no police or army bearing arms like in both Jerusalem and Tel Aviv - and we seem to have managed the public transport system well. \240People are very friendly and helpful, and it is a very clean city. \240A lot of green areas, very mountainous, hot and humid.
Breakfast was not as sumptuous as Tel Aviv but quite OK. Jacqui found the Egg Station and the chef fried her an egg on demand. Tomorrow she is intending to demand an omelet!
We met up with Jo and Stuart at Ocean Park Marine World, a theme park with animal exhibits and park rides. We spent a lot of time watching pandas, both the big black and white panda and the red panda. \240We enjoyed all the cold climate animals including Arctic foxes which were particularly cute and then caught the gondola up to the rides and more exhibits. The gondola was a ride and a half in itself, up up,up and over one mountain and on to the top of the next! I found it quite scary going up but ok coming back - I think it was because I was facing backwards and couldn't see where we were going. There were two roller coaster rides that were awful and neither Jacs or I were at all interested. \240Jo and Stuart went on the most challenging one. We all went on the water raft/rapids as we were so hot we knew we would get wet - drenched is the proper description. It was so good....
We parted ways for a few hours and met up again to get the tram to the Peak. \240Again it was an up, up up experience though strangely you didn't notice the incline. We were told it was the place to be at sunset, which we were but Hong Kong was shrouded in mist and heat haze and tiny raindrops so no ooooahhhhh moment.
We enjoyed dinner at the Bubba Gump Shrimp Co at the peak. \240We shared a starter of onion rings which were wonderful, then Stuart and Jo shared ribs and shrimps and Jacqui and I shrimps four ways. \240When we came back down we walked through the CBD to the ferry terminal to catch the Star ferry across the harbour to Kowloon and back to see the Hong Kong lights. A long day but good.
Today is our last day in Hong Kong before our flight home. \240We decided to do our own thing and meet at Central Station prior to catching the train to the airport.
After breakfast where Jacqui ordered and enjoyed her omelette, and Jacqui and I noticed that there was a temple relatively close to where we were staying. \240It was the Tin Hau Temple and we found this wonderfully quiet and green space in the middle of a very busy city. \240We were amazed at the many high rise buildings and the tiny spaces that trees could find to grow in. \240Scaffolding made from bamboo fascinated us as did the cliff faces, all of which were numbered.
Tai Hang Temple also provided a place of rest and quiet in the middle of busyness. A little further on we passed Hong Kong Central Library but did not enter. It was very near Victoria Park where numbers of school children were participating in various sporting activities.
We walked back to North Point for a late lunch at The Hungry Elephant. We collected our luggage from the hotel and caught the shuttle bus to Central Station to meet Jo and Stuart. \240At the station you could check in your luggage and have your boarding pass printed which was marvellous. \240
ConcessionHok has been awarded 3 stars for their Baked BBQ Pork buns, which we enjoyed before boarding the train to the airport. \240
Flight left on time without incident.
We arrived in Sydney about 8.30 am, collected our luggage and caught the train home where Doug met us at Turramurra station. \240
We were tired but elated and full of stories to tell and retell to anyone who has the patience and time to listen to our adventures.