I got up “before breakfast” to a beautiful sunrise. \240I was walking by 6:15 am. \240Cool morning and more rolling agriculture country side. \240Around 10:30 I stopped at a butcher shop in Therouanne and purchased a slice of ham a some cheese. \240The butcher was looking at me askance - wow, I must look like a real piece of work!
It was very warm walking through harvested wheat / hay fields and I drained my water badder (which I had forgotten to top off at the Abby before leaving). \240Water and a charged phone are necessities!!
Around 12:30 I veered off trail and located a roadside cafe. \240Water! \240But Jean Pierre (living in Lille) and his employee insisted they buy me a beer (he had walked the Compestella in Spain). \240Then we went to his parents’ nearby house that he’s remodeling to “enjoy a cafe au latte!” Okay. \240And there just next to the house is the Via F. - an EU Commission had just been here on June24th to recognize the VF!
Interestingly, Jean Pierre claimed that in 990 Sigeric walked the Via in part out of concern for the then-approaching millennium change (like the over-done predictions for 1999-2000).
Jean Pierre says, in his opinion, the French folks in the northern districts are much more hospitable than other areas, learning to go along to get along due to the centuries of many occupations — the Romans, English, Spanish, Germans, etc.; the lesson is for me is to get ready for a change the closer I come towards the Swiss border! 😀
Back on the trail after a 2 1/2 mid-day break. \240Beautiful scenery with roosters crowing and the frequent sound of distant church bells gently \240pealing.
When I made it to the village of Achuey — around 5:30 pm — there are NO accommodations. \240Bought a slice of ham, some chips, and orange juice then leaned forward because it was the only option. Another 10 km to the next village center, \240then about 3km more to a booking.com vacancy. \240Lesson learned (and hopefully not repeated): plan ahead for sleeping arrangements.
I have serious hot spots but no blisters!