I left Arras early on a quiet Sunday morning, refreshed with clean clothes (sort of). \240Today’s walk will be Arras to Bapaume (approximately 26 km / 17 miles). \240As I left the city I strolled past the re-built church where I earlier visited (NB The Cura d’Ars) and thereafter passed a street named the same.

The walk is only sporadically marked. It came with surprises around many corners: a snail in the path (Fibonacci would be pleased by recognizing his work in nature, eh?), small roadside chapels (most fallen into disarray), a roadside vending machine dispensing local produce, WW1 cemeteries both Allies and German (which ironically mark Jewish soldiers’ graves, with most graves doubled, tripled, quadrupled up), an abandoned basketball hoop(!), a John Deere tractor, and beautiful scenery with robust flower pots in villages and regular dairy farms. \240I found myself off track on two occasions, with the associated penalty of time and foot distance (often there & back).

With the exception of obvious hunting breeds, EVERY dog barks to no ends when I pass by wanting to attack! \240Dogs barking, roosters crowing, and church bells genntly pealing together comprise the background ambiance.

Lunch: yum. Thank you Arras.

Rain. \240I made it to Baupanne (which the Romans had named HELENA), \240late afternoon and searched for the address of the guesthouse to no avail. \240I asked a very helpful local gentleman and he explained I was in the wrong village. \240Another 45 minute walk off track in the rain to the very wee hamlet of Favreuil.

My guesthouse hosts were entertaining. \240They spoke some English but not a lot, which made for some laughs as we struggled with Google translator. \240Peggy’s twin sister Betty was visiting. \240Three children, three dogs, two cats, and laundry spilling out of the dryer. \240They have met very few Americans and said I didn’t look like an American. A quick glance in the mirror and neither Brad Pitt nor Tom Cruise were reflected back, what I saw was the reflection of a strange characture from the likes of a JRR Tolkien tale. \240I was wet, rumpled, and tired.

A beer, magic tricks, the Tour d’France final, a sausage & potatoe dinner, talking the best we could - about WW1 destruction (the story for the film 1917 was near here) and his work keeping bees and produceing honey for a living. \240She had a famly emergency and had to leave to visit a relative. I was the first pilgrim they’ve hosted. \240Off to bed (finally). \240What a day!

Sebastien et Peggy carpentier \24024 rue de l’eglise 62450

The next day’s WhatsApp message: Thank you for sharing with us the story of Bapaume that we did not know. \240Our meeting is definitely extraordinary and rich in exchanges.

😀😀