The longest line ever.
Arrived three hours pre flight to find this snake pit. \240Longest line I have seen in my life.
Sadly, the young counter agents shrugged shoulders were no reassurance we’d make our flight. \240Gladly her older and wiser supervisor said, see you at the gate, you’ll make it.
And, by make it - did she mean dinner at Whalburgers??
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Exploring During Nap Time
After a long flight, it’s either stay up or nap for a few hours. \240I decided to explore. \240
The Castell is a human tower performed by Catalans during festive days - its was quite a spectacle. \240Proud culture!
Video!
Children climb to the very top!
Serious skillz!!
Amazing climbing!!
After a quick beer, off to Can Paixo - glad I waited in line it was worth it. A glass of Cava (or two) did the job along with a pork cheese and pepper sandwich. $7.
Drinking in the street. \240Not frowned upon.
Ay carumba, La policia!!
Cava rosado.
Pork sandwich with melty cheese, pepper and onions.
First meal in Spain. \240Delicious.
Always a protester!
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Post Nap. Afternoon and evening of our first day. \240
Rooftop garden of our hotel. \240
Garden tour.
Here’s a little video walkabout.
Smile powered by vermouth and snacks.
House of the dragons
Some fancy architecture.
A pretty lady exiting the knife shop.
I’d you weren’t happy, here’s the answer.
Backside of Barcelona cathedral.
Music is seemingly everywhere.
Video! Some sweet strumming.
We are here during la Merce festival, so all sorts of celebrations are happening!!
Dancing in the streets! \240They all seem
To know the steps.
Heading down to the barcelonetta harbor, the yachts gave Nantucket a run for their money. I’d say the nod goes to Barcelona, given the Walmart yacht.
Walmart heiress yacht. \240Purchase price $300 million
Dinner time! \240Our super power is finding a bar seat in a crowded bar. \240
Bar action.
Giant mounds of tuna.
Ensalada Russa. \240Trick is to order at a place that does lots of covers. \240It’s amazing.
White anchovies in vinegar. \240I could eat this everyday.
Sirloin with Foie gras. Gawd.
What a great first day in Barcelona. \240We ended the night with a 1/2 pint at a local craft brewery, and \240nice stroll home on my newly blistered toe. \240
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Exploring Barcelona, our first night. \240
After Suz’s quick nap, first stop Vermouth! \240Had to stumble about 50’ from the hotel. \240
Vermouth and some snacky things. \240Including Gilda!
Our hotel has a rooftop garden!
Dragon!
Fancy architecture!
Really cool knife shop, and a cool lady walking out.
Don’t need these, doing fine on my own.
Cathedral of Barcelona (I think).
This is one of the Walmart daughters yacht. \240Could be yours for $300 million.
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Visit to Parc Guell
Started the day off fairly early, caught a cab to Parc Guell. \240Really an amazing wonder. \240Themes of the natural environment are present in all of Gaudi’s work. \240References to swans in the weight iron, octopuses in the tile work, lizards and more. \240The Parc was home to families of adorable litttle green parrots. \240And, we caught a little impromptu flamenco action! \240
Portrait mode does the trick!
Swans
Lilly pad flowers
Video! \240Lizard fountain.
Video! \240Senor dancing the flamenco. \240Muy dramatico!
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Boqueria Market Cerrado!!
One of the handful of Spanish words Susie has mastered is cerrado - closed! \240Which is what we found out today about our second activity today - the famous boqueria market is closed on Sundays. \240Of course it couldn’t have worked out better because we just happened to be in the exact right place at the right time to see the procession of giants - part of the festival La Merce.
Video of the giants!
Festive video!
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Casa Batlo - the Sistine Chapel of the modernist movement. \240Batlo truly shows Gaudis genius. \240The whole house is a nod to the Mediterranean, curved wood evocing the ocean, doors carved to resemble waves, blue tile arranged to mimic the way the ocean reaches to the sky.
Casa Batlo
Light streaming in.
Gaudi intended to manage the light of the home and did so with various sized windows. \240
Curvy! \240
I’m sure some children slid down this banister!
Wave stairs.
Like a turtle shell.
Curved woodwork like this is the highest level of difficulty.
Stained glass everywhere.
Love seat?
Entryway to the patio.
Patio tile work.
Tiles used recycled broken glass, artfully arranged.
Desk. \240Priceless.
A lovely fern.
Bromeliad? \240
I’d like to find this plant stand at a flea market.
Emerald green and gorgeous red. \240
My grandmother had one of these plants.
Interior of the house.
The tile interior went from shades of light blue to dark, like sky to ocean.
Each of the doors, had insignias carved over to indicate whose room it was.
The wood elevator was amazing. I was discouraged from tying to ride it myself (door was open). \240
Elevator.
So tempting.
Rooftop chimneys.
View from the rooftop bar across the street, that I sussed out for a post visit cocktail. \240
Pastrami sandwhich and a smile.
Oh. Before Casa Batlo we had lunch at Craft 19. \240Owned and operated by a former New Yorker who now lives in Barcelona, he has a restaurant serving 3 things - beer, burgers, and pastrami. \240He’s been in Spain for 20 years. \240Good call.
After Batlo we decided to walk home even though we’d been walking all day. \240Saw a few cool things on the way back, including an old art deco doorway past it’s hey day. \240
Agua de griffo.
Free fill ups!
Enjoying in the square.
Wigs.
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Besta - One of the best meals we’ve ever eaten - Bedouin Jam bands, and graffiti art.
After an 8+ mile day of walking and exploring, it became clear that we needed some extra rest before our 7:30 reservation at Besta, a seafood restaurant in the Eixample neighborhood. \240Having been difficult to secure the Rez, I was a little concerned about moving it so we could get much needed rest. \240The restaurants email reply was a reassuring - sim problema - no problem, we already moved your reservation because we don’t open our doors until 8pm.
Upon arrival we were greeted with warmth and hospitality from a laid back crew. The service here was exceptional. \240Three different servers checked in, explained the dishes, answered questions. \240Carlos the chef came to our table with a few dishes and answers questions in a way that showed he really cared about his diners. \240Thirteen courses, $75E was a big value, and $25 for 4 drinks (we walked home) a cocktail, 2 glasses of Albariño, and a gorgeous sherry (did they make a mistake??). \240Here’s the meal…Bedouin jam band and graffiti to follow.
Cucumber infused Negroni
Gotta up my infusion game.
Gin based clam with sorrel
Razor clam with seaweed emulsion
I’ve only had one razor clam (didn’t like). This changed my mind - sweet and delicious.
Blow torched tuna with basil emulsion and kholrabi
Beef tartar with egg yolk and caviar.
Amberjack, parsely juice, eggplant. Black sesame sorbet.
The sorbet was cooling and fantastic. \240The little seeds, \240coriander.
Slightly smoked Horse mackerel. \240Red pepper consome, red pepper oil and creme fraiche.
I thought this dish had smoked paprika, but it didn’t. \240That same flavor was actually the smokiness of the fish and the red pepper. \240This was one of my top three dishes of the eve.
Barcelona prawns, tomatoes, egg yolk, prawn broth. \240
This dish also in my top three of the eve. \240The prawn broth tastes of the sea, deep flavor. \240The tomatoes Candy sweet. \240The chef explained the egg yolk is cr reared by a yolk emulsion that is sous vide, the. Piped out into little jammy yolks.
Bread.
Seaweed butter
I could eat this everyday.
Cod loin, pig ear stew, spinach, pig skin
The pig ear stew was really the best thing ever. \240And, probably, the reason they brought bread prior.
Missed a picture of a dish: \240Pumpkin, pumpkin purée, white prawn, chicken skin, chicken jus. \240
Veal sweetbreads, wild mushrooms and smoked eel mouse
This was my favorite dish of the evening. \240I considered asking for another portion. \240Really amazing.
Fantastic sherry.
We will be on a mission to find this and bring some home!
Desserts not shown:
Basil infused sorbet with apple and gin
Passion berry pepper ice cream.
Dark chocolate pecans toffee.
Just wow. \240The only thing that could have made this better would be to have shared this with family and friends. \240We found ourselves many times saying, “you know who would love this?”
After dinner we walked home, a bit of a ramble stopping here and there. \240Saw some cool stuff.
Casa Batlo all lit up.
The stained glass is magical, and so enchanting.
Video! \240Bedouin Jam Band
They were pretty tight. \240But jam bands are kinda annoying….get on to the next song FFS.
One side street had graffiti art on all of the doors.
Finally got home after midnight, still throngs of people out and about enjoying the evening. \240Does anyone sleep here??
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La Sagrada Familia - a History tour of \240the Gothic Quarter - Flaming Marrow Bones.
La Sagrada Famila was a deeply emotional experience for me. \240On a level I just didn’t expect. \240Beauty strikes you over the course of our lives - \240and you take in moments little by little - a gorgeous sunset, golden hour over a field, a mossy Forrest floor, \240a deep blue sea, a sunrise of orange, staring into a campfire, a flowing clear river, beautiful tall green trees and the leaves of autumn. We enjoy these moments over the course of a lifetime. \240 Now imagine seeing all of those highlights all at once, like an unstoppable flood, \240in the form of pure \240light. \240That is Sagrada. \240An intense beauty that overwhelms all at once - that is the light of Sagrada. I was instantly filled with emotion and a sense of joy and pure peace I’ve only experienced in the natural world. Yet the light of Sagrada is man made, by a genius who understood where God is, all around us in the natural world. \240Sagrada has deepened my gratitude for being in nature and savoring the moments of beauty, the light of everyday.
History Tour of the Gothic Quarter
Over the course of three hours we learned about the history of Barcelona, and the Catalan people. The people here have their own identity, language, and unique history of being independent and stubborn. \240Their National symbol - the Donkey! \240
200 year old shop.
The city gives out plaques for shops that have stood the rest of time (usually at least 100 years)
Victim of COVID
Many of the old shops didn’t make it during COVID. \240This one opened in 1838 and is sadly now closed.
Square of the unknown malitia
Unknown refers to those who stood up against the Fascists of Franco, trying to preserve Catalan culture and worker rights.
Church of Pi
Pi is a pine tree, and this on was planted by locals who replaced a tree cut down by Napoleons army.
Mustafah the giant.
Where the aqueduct entered the Roman city of Barcelona
This aqueduct is a reproduction built in the 50’s, whowing where they thing the Toman aqueduct was. \240
Catalonian banner flag hung for Mercè festival.
The flag itself is a representation of a hand dipped in blood, and the fingers making a streak down a fallen kings chest. \240Wolfed the Hairy fell in battle (one that was not his fight, he came to the aid of Charles the Bold). It is said that Charles dipped his hand in Wilfred’s blood and made this symbol on his chest. \240The mural shows the giants of Catalonia - by Picasso.
Stick dancers.
All form of Catalan culture was banned by Franco. \240Now, during festivals the Catalan ways are on full display.
Bomb damage form the civil war.
42 children were killed by bombs in this square during the civil war. \240The damage from the bombs was never repaired as a reminder.
Representative of the giants, under control of Fascism
The Catalan Flag
Hand streaking blood, making the Catalan flag.
Memorial of 1714
Here lays the remains of those slain during Sept 11, 1714, by foreign (Bourbon?) occupiers. \240 Again the language and culture was outlawed. \240At the time clock 17:14 Barca fans shout - Independence!!
Entrance to the Jewish Quarter.
One of the events that led to the expulsion of the Jews was Queen Isabella’s debt. \240She financed Christopher Columbus’ journey by borrowing money. So naturally, expell the Jews, no need to pay.
Flaming Marrow Bones
When Chef lights something on frire, anything, that is what you order. \240Especially if it’s a marrow bone topped with tuna tartare, mayo, and bonito flakes.
Video! \240Fire at the bar area. He was having a great time lighting food on fire. \240
This dish threw us over the top. \240Lunch around 2pm, no need for dinner. Arrived smoking at the table.
Sea bass, grilled to perfection. We are every bit of skin, so crispy!
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A Day of Wandering - 100+ Year Elevators - Tresspasing in the Name of architecture
A couple of notable stops, Santa Catarina Market is the Boqueria Market’s non touristy cousin. \240Primary destination was bar Joan and to do some food shopping. \240After we dropped the goods at our hotel and visited Can Paixo, a standing only bar specializing in Cava (a type of champagne). \240After we ventured into Eixample (high rent district) and did a little exploring way off the beaten path. \240Got kicked out of Casa Sayrach!
Snacky bits with anchovies, octopus.
Glistening fish.
Bar Joan
Meatballs and Cod fritters
Cava Rosado at Can Paixo, mixed sausage plate.
Cured tuna. \240
Spoke to the host, it’s just tuna and smoke. \240Going to try to make this. \240Good olive oil to serve.
Video! \240Casa Comlat!
Casa Comlat
Round door ground floor casa Comlat
Riding a 100+ Year old elevator Casa Comlat
At first we could figure out how to operate, and the last thing we wanted to do was break it. \240Luckily and adjacent door to an office was ajar and a bored looking receptionist was happy to help. \240
Video! \240Casa Sayrach
After riding the elevator we hung out and rested on a velvet couch in the lobby. \240We were asked to leave. \240Sir. Sir. \240Sir.
Lobby of Casa Sayrach
Didn’t go here.
I would have tried to ride this elevator, but there was a security guard right there.
Video! - Roof top
Drinks with views
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Barcelona, wrapping it up!!
Today is our last day and we are finally in the swing of things, and by that I mean taking a mid day siesta. \240Suz lying down, I am chilling. \240We spent a good portion of the morning soaking up the Mediterranean sun, and neither of us were used to that. \240Definitely spent after our electric bike, electric scooter outing! Yesterday was one of those day that made me very thankful we’d booked a 2 week trip - lost a day to food poisoning - did manage to secure Spanish Peptol Bismol (in convenient one dose packets) and after mostly recovered had a nice bowl of beef Pho!
I’ve always wanted to try an electric scooter!! \240They are great fun on smooth pavement. \240On bumps it kind of feels like your head is a cocktail shaker. \240
Video! \240
Everyone rides these. \240Probably the fastest way to get around the city. \240Very speedy!!
Oligarch Yacht!
Owned by Sergey Chemezov, CEO of Rostec the largest tech and defense conglomerate in Russia. \240Can be rented for $950k a week, plus expense se of approx $55k a week. \240The Meridian A.
Egads!! \240Susie is sick today! \240Very grateful that we at least got to spend the morning together having fun. \240After stocking up on water and ginger ale I was encouraged to go solo. Thankful.
I headed out and checked the last boxes of our trip. \240Went to Jon Ckae \240and got some cheese cake, and visited Casa Vincens. \240When I got there, I FaceTimed with Suz so I could give her a live tour from her sick bed :( \240 Also made a tour video.
This is Casa Vincens, Gaudi’s first house.
Video Tour of the house!!
Fried Chicken sandwich for dinner!!
Famous Jon Cake
Hope Susie is feeling better tomorrow so she can enjoy her slice!!
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Off to Rupit. \240About an hour and half north of Barcelona lies Rupit, a small little medieval town in the mountains south of the Pyrenees. \240After securing our rental car, we first drive to Girona for a quick lunch and a walk about. \240We saw one of the primary filming locations for Game of Thrones, a bath house from the 14th century and ate a gelato at “famous” gelateria owned by a Michelin starred chef. \240(Maple creamee just as good). \240After Girona we drove on to Rupit where we are staying for the next theee nights.
Church in Girona
Lunch!
This was yummy, camabert and honey toasted sandwich. \240The bread was light and yummy. \240And a large vermouth!
Video!
Had a little entertainment during our lunch. His instrument was a drum he could site on, and he overalyed a background track. \240We chatted with him for a bit. \240
Jewish store. \240Not oft seen in Spain. \240
Steps leading up to the cathedral.
Game of Thrones!! \240
Tons of scenes were filmed here. \240Shame!!
The Baths
River in Girona
Ramblosec Gelaterria
Vanilla with candied hazelnuts.
Made it to our hotel!! \240Gorgeous ride up to the mountains. \240Wish I got the video of us getting side tracked in the medieval village - google maps took us the wrong way! \240Luckily no people around. \240Had this happened Saturday (town packed) we would have been in big trouble!!
Video of our hotel
Video!
Susie having a nice rest.
View from our veranda. \240
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Lovely day in Rupit. \240After a leisurely coffee and morning of relaxing we headed out on a hike directly from our hotel. \240The route took us through the Forrest and eventually to the town of Rupit where we \240explored and had some lunch.
Even though we had a handy hiking app that showed us exactly where we were, there were several handy sign posts. \240
Spanish bug doing a fly over!
Steep descent from the trail into the upper town.
Lovely planter. \240Too heavy to bring something like this home.
Rupit.
Town square
Yesterday when navigation failed we drove right through this square!!
Catalan flag proudly displayed.
We stumbled upon a shop, the cookie makin machine is 130-140 years old and has been in the shopkeepers family for three generations. \240It ran first on coal, then gas, the current cookie maker has electrified it. \240My Spanish is getting better as I was able to green all of this info in Spanish.
Cookie making machine. \240130+ years old.
Suspension bridge over the river gorge.
Old castle.
Next door neighbors
The donkey is The Catalan national animal. \240Stubborn and strong.
Hotel dinner date.
Susie had a duck cannelloni which she said was the best meal of the trip. \240I had a Catalan beef stew which was fantastic. \240
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Today was a perfect mix of all the good things. \240An adventurous bike ride. \240A walk to town. A pot of tea while taking in the incredible view. \240Being cared for by our host who prepared the perfect upset tummy meal - chicken noodle soup - it tasted like love. \240
Panoramic view during our ride.
Electric bike ride smile
We hung out with a sweet cow.
Video!
Video!
Beautiful wild geraniums.
Happy.
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Off to Cadaques. \240Half way we stopped at Basalau, a medieval town that dates from 900. \240Home to a famous bridge, that was first built by the Visigoth’s. \240Near the bridge was a Mikveh (Jewish ritual bath). The towns mayor during the civil war was a fierce republican who wound up escaping from a concentration camp, and wound up in hiding in Barcelona. \240Cadaques is on Cape de Ceus, jutting out into the Med. \240so far so good. \240First night got settled in - a few Vermouths and enjoyed some tapas on the patio enjoying the view.
Meat vending machine!!
Just in case you need a little sausage or something.
Driving into Cadaques
Video!
Stopped for lunch in town.
Jug of vermouth. \240We may have gone overboard.
View from the patio
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Today we hiked out to Cap Creus, a long journey! \240 About five mile of very dry and hot hiking. \240The scenery was magnificent. \240When we finally made it I downed at least a liter of water. \240Susie made friends with a German couple who were walking their dog, vacationing in heir camper. We invited Detleff and Biggie for lunch. \240Amazing how you can click with someone and have so much in common. \240Biggie spent a year abroad in Indiana. All in all a great day, with a lot of walking, almost 9 miles.
Morning view.
On the way to the trail, the local pitch.
Found the trail.
Yacht in a secluded cove.
Olive oil press
Volcanic rock.
Our destination, still a \240ways off!
Tempted to beach it.
Getting closer.
Very steep up.
Made it!
Victory under the Catalonian flag of independence.
Biggie and Detleff
Really nice couple from Düsseldorf. They spoke perfect English. \240I think adventuring keeps them young. \240Biggie is 55. Detlft said they’ve had the caper for 5 years. Can’t imagine driving on the pass here!!
Fun was had by all.
A couple of videos from the top!!
Video
Video
It took awhile to make our way back to town. \240After we re-read the sign, and confirmed no buses running except weekends, we were able to speak with local bar owner who helped us grab a cab.
Back street of Cadaques
Cadaques harbor
Tapas at home.
Susie’s dinner!
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Started out early today for a day trip to France. Our destination the Castel of Peyrepertuse, which is one of 5 Cathar castles in the region. \240A castle has been on this site since the 800s! \240The site is vast and is actually two castles right next to each other. \240
Town in the valley.
Walking up not really an option.
Castle Queribus across the valley.
Trail to the castle
It took about 20 minutes to walk up and about 40 “floors” of elevation.
The chapel.
This is the rain collection storage.
Castle Queribus.
Panoramic view of the Pyrenees.
Lovely Susie.
Here’s a video from the top of the second castle.
Video! \240Sorry about the nose close up. Egads.
The stones all around the castle, the stairs, and on the foot paths are all worn smooth. \240
This is the first keep, the castle itself has two keeps. The second keep is where I’m perched.
Queribus.
We were pretty hungry after the visit, and the options around the castle were slim to none. \240After drivin for about a half hour, Susie managed to find a supermarket where we purchased a little car lunch - rosemary ham, salami, Comte cheeese, a baguette right out of the oven and a big beer to split. \240
After lunch we headed back to Cadaques via the coastal route with a stop at a lovely town in France, \240Colliour, where there was a fortress, and two hill castles. \240We have a strict one castle a day rule, so we had a nice stroll around the town.
Boats flying the Catalan flag. Much like the Basques, the Catalan people split between Spain and France.
Men playing boulle
We saw a few games of Boulle being played. Must be nice to have a group of friends to hang out with and play a leisurely game.
Coastal rout back.
The drive back was spectacular. \240Here’s a video from a rest stop.
Video.
Abandoned border crossing.
No borders with the European Union, definitely some cool decay here.
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Beach day! \240Ventured out to Cap Creus today, early bird gets the deserted beach. The water was crystal clear, lots of pretty fishes swimming around.
About a 20 minute hike down to the beach.
Volcanic rock.
There’s the beach down there!
Beach in view.
Love handles under the water. \240
Post beach beer with an awesome view!
Katsu chicken rice bowl.
Salmon poke bowl.
After lunch we had a nice stroll through Cadaques. \240It’s really such a lovely town.
Cadaques from the other side of town.
A gorgeous paella.
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