Day 3 - The Sun Arrives
For the next two days we are off to explore the Luberon Valley.
Patti ready to go in the beautiful sunshine
The Luberon valley is an intriguing area of Provence. It’s a place where time has seemingly stood still for centuries and you can still sample the alluring Provençal charm that has captivated countless visitors throughout the years It’s an area of France that deserves to be savoured.
The Luberon spans over 600 square kilometres and is home to several stunning villages – 5 of which have been officially classed as ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’ (The Most Beautiful Villages of France).
Thi is the area of France made famous by Peter Mayle’s “A Year in Provence” and showcased in the movie “A Good Year”. In fact, one of our stops today will be in Menerbes, the town in which Mayle lived and wrote.
Peter Mayle and wife in front of their home in Menerbes (Note he died in 2018 so this is not a picture I took)
We left the hotel and passed through the beautiful vineyards we had admired from our balcony.
Leaving the hotel, we travel down into a gorgeous valley
More beautiful scenery
As we coasted downhill from our hotel perch, we knew that some tough cycling was in store. You see, the Luberon is an area made up of three mountain ranges. The Petit Luberon, the Grand Luberon and the Luberon Oriental.
Most people when they hear the term “charming hillside town”, they focus on the warm implications of the word “charming”. When a bicyclist hears those same word, he or she may well focus on “hillside”. That is especially the case in Luberon.
Over the next several days we would face many steep hills, some as long as 3 miles. However, thanks to the wonderful “e-bikes” that we are riding, the climbs, while still challenging, are doable. The e-bike is a specially designed bike with 5 gears and a small electrical motor buildt into the crankcase to give you some assistance on hills. \240Almost everyone on our trip uses an e-bike because it allows everyone to stay together. You still get a great workout but you can traverse more difficult terrain and go longer distances which allow you to enjoy more places. It also allows you to avoid afternoon naps and makes for later evenings - all good things on vacation. The other great device is the tablet attached to each bike with that day’s route on its GPS. \240The little roads on which we travel are not well marked and having the GPS talk to you is a lifesaver.
To make this point, look at the picture below. \240It is the view we encountered as we headed to our first stop that morning, the village of Bonnieux.
Bonnieux is one of the many historic "hill villages" in the region. Dating back to Roman times, it rests on top of the Luberon hills casting a watchful gaze across the rest of the valley. Next to the village is a cedar forest that began with trees imported from North Africa during the Napoleonic era. It sits opposite Mont Ventoux, the tallest mountain in this area of France and home to one of the most famous legs of the Tour De France bike race. More on Mont Ventoux later.
The region has been occupied since neolithic times, with evidence scattered throughout the Luberon.
Our morning stop in Bonnieux
A view over the Luberon Valley. Yes we biked up that hill!
Beautiful church dates from the 6th century
See the town in the distance? That’s Lacoste, our next stop. More hills to climb
After some refreshments, we were off to Lacoste. Lacoste is best known for its most notorious resident, Donatien Alphonse Francois comte de Sade, commonly referred to as the Marquis de Sade, who in the 18th century lived in the castle, Château de Lacoste, overlooking the village. He wrote sexually explicit novels that featured graphic descriptions of macabre sexual practices. \240Following a series of incidents involving the abduction of local women who were subjected to his perverse sexual proclivities, he was sought as a criminal but fled the country. He was eventually captured and altogether spent 30 years in prison. His name lives on infamously as the root of the word “sadism”. \240His castle was partially destroyed in an uprising in 1779 and was later looted and plundered by locals. It is now owned by fashion designer Pierre Cardin, who has partially restored it and holds cultural events there.
After riding through the village of Lacoste, we climbed the steep hill to the castle and explored the grounds and enjoyed the breathtaking views.
At the Chateaux Lacoste (or the Castle of the Marquis de Sade)
Clowning around at the castle. I am actually surprised I could lift my arms after the climb
The path to the occcupied part of the castle owned by Pierre Cardin
I tried to stop in and say hello to Pierre but no one answered my knock
One of many blue doors throughout France
We left Lacoste and headed to Menerbes, the actual town featured in the book, A Year in Provence. As you can see from the picture below, it was a steep climb up to the ancient walled city.
Ruins of a former castle that protected Menerbes
Everybody checking cellphones.
After checking out the town, we rode about a mile to where we were having lunch at the winery of Domaine Ruffinato, which happens to be owned by the Mayor of Menerbes. \240Our guides had arranged for Kelly McAuliffe, a famous Sommelier to talk to us about wines from Provence. Kelly is a well know American sommelier who worked at several of Alain Ducasse’s famous restuarants including the Rivea in Las Vegas. He moved to Provence 12 years ago with his wife.
The meal was served family style with cheese, fresh and grilled vegetables, salad, local meats and potatoes. So simple but so delicious.
Enjoying a nice lunch at the winery
Kelly McAuliffe shared his knowledge of the wines of Provence
Enjoying a wonderful lunch of fresh traditional dishes of Provence - delicious
Checking our GPS and getting ready to roll
The afternoon was a 10 mile ride back to the La Coquillade Hotel. \240Mike and I headed to our rooms to catch up on emails. Patti and Joan never made it farther than the pool where they stopped for a glass of wine. \240I can’t say that I blame them. In fact, it didn’t take too much arm twisting (just a quick call from Patti) for me to give up my work and join them for a delightful G & T by the pool.
The pool at the La Coquillade Hotel
The view from our hotel room (Room 22) at the La Coquillade Hotel
Dinner that night was in the nearby town of Roussillon, another of the beautiful hill towns of the Luberon. \240The town is called “Little Colorado” with its ochre colored (reddish / orange) tinted stone buildings contrasting with the bright green pine trees. All of the stone in the area is ochre in color and is visually stunning. But, the question is: what makes the stone that unique color?
There seem to be two explanations. The local legend is that in the Middle Ages a young damsel named Sermonde was married to Raymond d'Avignon, who was the lord of Roussillon. Raymond spent most of his time hunting, and in the long interludes Sermonde fell in love with a local troubadour. When Raymond found out about this, he did what anyone would do - he cut the troubadour's heart out and served it to Sermonde for dinner without telling her. When Sermonde learned of her husband’s deed, she threw herself from the top of Roussillon to the rocks below. The result was that the earth turned red with her blood for all time.
The second, and probably real reason for the color, is much less interesting. It all goes back to the sea which once covered the area right before the dinosaurs (which is true). When the sea dried up several million years ago, pouring rain slowly transformed the accumulated layers of limestone exposing very chemical compounds to air and light for the first time. The chemical reaction that resulted (much like rust being caused by oxidation) created the ochre-bearing sands.
Ochre was first used as a natural paint in the painted caves that prehistoric man embellished. It was later rediscovered at the time of the French Revolution, and was sold throughout the world for over a century making Roussillon a very prosperous area. Ochre is a natural pigment with indelible color.
After falling into disuse for 50 years, it is now enjoying a much-deserved revival. Its natural components, its vibrant and long-lasting colors make ochre a wonderful material to use in home decoration, but also in painting and ceramics. Places such as the Ochre Conservatory in Roussillon offer a vast selection of training workshops to learn how to use them.
Patti and our guide, Denis, overlooking cliffs in Roussillon
Beautiful colors at sunset
Little Colorado st its best
View from top of Roussillon
Lovely sunset in Provence
Dinner in Roussillon
After dinner we headed back to the hotel. We couldn’t resist one nightcap on the beautiful terrace. We had to get up early in the morning to pack because we were moving on.