1
Winchester

We made it out the door only about 45 minutes behind schedule! The first part of the drive was uneventful and easy - no traffic and the license plate game helped pass the time. With just one quick pit stop, we made our way to Winchester, VA. It’s a cute little town, rich with Civil War history, and apples...lots of apples. In fact, the World’s Largest Apple resides here on the lawn of a women’s clothing boutique!

The 2nd Apple (I’m pretty sure that’s how they refer to it, is less than half a block away) features some Civil War heroes important to the area. We had intentions of having lunch at the Snow White Grill, but they have since closed the doors to the actual eat-in counter and only offer window service now. It was blazing hot, so we skipped it and opted for Brewbaker’s instead.

Brewbaker’s is a Winchester institution, starting out as the White Palace in 1910 and later becoming an assortment of restaurants and dining rooms over the years. Nothing special inside, but the food was good and it served a good enough purpose to get us fed before we headed to the intended destination in Winchester, the home of Patsy Cline.

The house is a small two story, two room home on a quiet residential street on the outer edge of town. It’s still very much a residential neighborhood, nestled between houses. Since the house is not museum-quality climate controlled, much of the original Cline collection is actually housed in Nashville at the Patsy Cline museum, but the trust that manages everything did a wonderful job at recreating the living quarters as close to the way they would have been while she lived there. The docents were really great and knew so much about her and her family - it was clear that they really appreciated her legacy to both Winchester and to music in general.

There were a few “originals” in the home including her mother’s iron and ironing board, some fantastic shoes, and her 8th grade civics textbook!

We left the Kent Street home and headed to Dinosaur Land. This is a kooky little relic outside of Winchester that houses dozens of dinosaur statues. It’s a self-guided tour that took us maybe 20 minutes or so, but the kids thought it was great and honestly, we did too. There are cacti and octopuses and really enormous preying mantis - all just hanging out on the side of a busy road. The gift shop is a hodge podge of dinosaur toys, odds and ends, t-shirts and a startling large collection of Confederate flag gifts...

Onward to our last destination of the day - Staunton, VA. We started down 81 again, but realized that the Skyline Drive was literally on our way, so we hopped off and made our to the first junction in Shenandoah National Park. The views were breathtaking, and the drive was a little terrifying at times, but it was well worth the detour. We made it about 30 miles before we headed back towards 81 and finished up in Staunton.

On recommendation from Retro Roadmap Queen Mod Betty (our pal Beth Lennon), we went back in time to have dinner at Wright’s Dairy-Rite, a genuine 50s carhop drive-in. This place has been family owned since 1952 and they have kept it’s original charm with some key updates like credit cards :) The food was excellent and the kids got a real kick out of the car hop experience. The weather was beautiful so sitting in the car with the windows down was just right.

We finally made our way to the Holiday Inn in Staunton. The kids got a little pool time in before we all crashed for the night. Unfortunately, Cillian is coming down with a cold - hopefully it’s a quick one.

World’s Largest Apple

The Hensley family piano

Her mother’s notes on Patsy’s size

Sketches from dresses made by Hildie Hensley

The family iron and ironing board!

These shoes were so fantastic - purchased at Thom McCann!

Yeah...

Fionnuala ain’t afraid of no giant Preying Mantis

My best Faye Wray

2
Wytheville, VA

Today hasn’t started off quite as planned. Cillian got hit with a nasty stomach bug late last night and is still wiped from a fever. Getting a later start than planned, but hopefully this will leave as quickly as it came.

Bug is still feeling pretty miserable so we just did a drive-by in Wytheville. We DID snag a picture of the World’s Largest Pencil. This was one of the first things we planned to see as we started talking about this trip.

Tennessee state line!

After a wicked storm, we finally landed on the doorstep of our dear friends, Michaelyn & Josh, who graciously had bbq waiting for us. Lots of time relaxing and catching up tonight - off to explore Knoxville tomorrow.

3
Knoxville

Well today started off great! Cillian was feeling better, the weather was perfect, and it was a Saturday in Knoxville! We headed to the city for brunch at Tupelo Honey which was delicious! We poked around a few shops and spent some time at World’s Fair Park.

But then it got less great...Dan headed out to find an urgent care for a lingering sinus infection. When he got back, I noticed that the “sore muscle”’on my thigh was now a Rick hard and red bump. Not good.

So while Michaelyn & Josh treated the kids to an outdoor movie night, Dan drove me to the emergency room. I started getting a bit panicky in the car and passed out which just made the whole night a lot more stressful...

So here I sit waiting on labs to figure out what is going on. This damn well better be nothing - I have a vacation to attend to!

4
Pigeon Forge

Today has to get us back on track! We had a nice, easy Sunday morning with delicious baked oatmeal from Michaelyn and a quick stop for beer and wings for lunch before heading to Pigeon Forge. Dolly, here we come!

We arrived in Pigeon Forge around 3:30 p.m. and headed up a VERY steep hill to our cabin. It’s a great little spot, with incredible views. I’ll take more pics of the actual cabin tomorrow.

They really were having fun....And don’t worry, we didn’t lose the other two...

We didn’t have much time in the cabin before it was time to head out to the Stampede! We had a blast - it was just the right amount of genuine fun and kitsch and I loved every minute. The kids did too!

After the show, we settled back into the cabin for the night. The kids couldn’t resist a dip in the hot tub!

Tomorrow we will explore the mountains a bit. We’ll be on the hunt for bears and Dolly Parton obviously.

5
Gatlinburg

Today was fairly wonderful to say the least! We had a lazy morning and finally got out the door right before lunch time. After some digging, I discovered a new place in Gatlinburg that looked promising so we packed everyone in the car and took the scenic route. Cillian very much enjoyed the travels on Boogertown Road. (Honestly, we all giggled because boogers...)

We decided to explore Anakeesta, a relatively new addition to downtown Gatlinburg. To get there, you have to take the Chondola ride to the top of the mountain. I won’t lie and say I wasn’t terrified the whole way, but we DID see a bear, and the views were pretty spectacular. Once at the top, we decided to have lunch at the Cliff Top Cafe. The outdoor deck area overlooks a gorgeous view and the weather was perfect if you could shield yourself from the sun.

The food was actually really great and some local beers from Yee Haw Brewing hit the spot. The kids even had their first Moon Pies!

After lunch, we headed further into the park to check out the tree canopy walk. This was a series of rope bridges through the forest. Typically, you can see bears in the trees as well, but we had no luck. We did see one on the way up, so all was not lost!

There is also a cool treehouse playground, another restaurant, some shops, and ziplining. They are currently working on building a mountain coaster as well. The views are just really gorgeous too. Lots of great photo opportunities!

We headed back down to town to explore, stopping first at Ole Smoky Distillery for a tasting. We worked our way through town, checking out some of the attractions along the way.

This was all in blazing hot sun, so a stop at Smoky Mountain Brewing was welcomed, although the kids took the “break” thing pretty seriously.

Dinner, drinks, and AC pepped everyone back up so we headed back through town. Many years ago, Dan and I and Josh & Michaelyn got an old-timey photo taken in Gatlinburg, so we decided to have the kids recreate it this time.

Classic.

More meandering up the street...

Daisy & Luke Duke

We even tried dragons’ breath ice cream which isn’t really ice cream at all, but still mildly entertaining for a few minutes...

Our last plan for the evening was supposed to be Hillbilly Mini Golf, but the wait time was 45 minutes to even buy tickets so we scrapped it and decided to head back up the hill to see Anakeesta at night. I was much less scared at night and it was actually kind of relaxing with a cool breeze. We did the treetop walk again at night - still no bears and finished off the night with ice cream and beer.

6
1710 Mountain View Ct, Sevierville, TN 37876, USA

We headed back into Gatlinburg today to hit some promised attractions for the kids. On our way there, we decided to grab lunch first. Mel’s Diner was our first choice, but it was pretty packed, so we headed down the road to JT Hannah’s instead. This place is named for a famous Tennessee whiskey baron and it was pretty delicious. The kids really dug it too.

After lunch we headed into town for a visit to the Guinness Book of World Records. The museum was fun with lots of interactive experiences - lots of opportunities to challenge world records.

And they even had Pac Man....

Next, Michaelyn, Dan, and I did the tasting at Sugarland’s Distillery. Really good stuff and a lot of fun - the kids were so tired they just hung out in the corner. Cillian fell asleep sitting up. It revived them enough to gather up enough energy for one last hurrah in Gatlinburg....

Hillbilly Minigolf! Dan and I have wanted to do this since we here 15 years ago, so tonight was the night! The course is built on the side of a mountain and you have to take a mountain car up to get there.

The course is full of “mountain obstacles” including having to run down several flights of stairs if your ball goes over the wall (Fionnuala....) It was still pretty good and all of the adults managed a hole in one!

We finished the night up with dinner at the cabin and a dip in the hot tub. The Smokies are beautiful and the perfect combination of fun and relaxation. Tomorrow morning we say goodbye to the Elders for a few days as we had to Nashville!

7
Nashville

We said goodbye to our sweet little cabin in the Smokies and honestly, we were all a little sad. While I could do without a whole lot more of Gatlinburg’s craziness, I would go back to that cabin in a heartbeat to soak up the beauty and quiet (who am I kidding - we had four kids there - it was never quiet...but you get the idea!)

We also said goodbye to the Elders (just for a few days!) and headed to Nashville. But first, we had a very important stop...

Fionnuala and I made our pilgrimage to Dolly. She’s been wanting to give her a hug for months now (me too) and this was the closest we could get. I’ll take it :)

We arrived in Nashville around lunchtime so we decided to check out the neighborhood where we are staying (Five Points/East Nashville). We settled on lunch at Mas Tacos - it was amazing. I love this place and wanted to bring it home with me!

After lunch and a quick trip to the grocery store and liquor store (it’s our vacation too), we headed to the apartment. It is absolutely adorable and such a nice change from a hotel.

We had tickets for the Hatch Show Print tour, so we headed into the city. I was super excited about this - it’s got three of my favorite things: great design, music, and old fashioned letterpress printing. My dad owned a print shop for forever and still used letterpress for years. I have always been fascinated by this process - it’s truly an art and produces such incredibly cool work. I LOVE that Hatch is still doing the thing. I was a little geeky during this tour and was so happy to see my kids getting their hands on a little bit of both family and music history. And the prints...gawd.

After Hatch, we went for full immersion and wandered down Broadway. Cillian was pretty amazed at the amount of live music. We even hovered outside a bar to hear a pretty damn good cover of “Brandy” - one of his favorites. Next stop was Ernest Tubb’s Records. We didn’t buy any records, but the kids picked out their first real cowboy hats. They look damn good if I do say so myself.

We decided to have dinner at the George Jones. Again, live music inside and outside and country music history all over the damn place. Cillian even tried out Possum’s lanwmower. The resemblance is uncanny...

On the way home, we drove through Music Row. It was so so cool to see all of the publishing companies and labels and even ASCAP!

It was HOT, so we headed back to Five Points for ice cream at the Pied Piper. This place is hilarious. The ice cream flavors alone are worth the trip: Oreo Speedwagon, Red Velvet Elvis, Are You There God It’s Me Margarita, Ziggy Starcrunch...And there’s a Tom Selleck altar.

We have a long day ahead of us tomorrow, so we headed back to the house to relax. It’s so nice having such a great space. The kids watched a movie while we sipped cocktails on the front porch. Now we enjoy some bourbon and a comfy couch. Johnny Cash and record shopping tomorrow!

8
Nashville

We slept in a bit today as all the fun caught up to us. But after some coffee and breakfast, we headed in to begin our day at the Johnny Cash Museum. This is a great collection, chock full of cool memorabilia, interactive listening stations, and tons of information. Cillian even posed for a pic with the Man in Black!

We were all starving by the time we got down there so we headed to Acme Feed & Seed for lunch. We got too much food all around, but it was a cool place nonetheless.

Next stop was the tour of the Ryman Auditorium. We did the self-guided option since the guided tour was not being offered today. It starts out with this amazing video experience of the history of the Ryman. Very cool. We then got to walk around the balcony and even got to go on stage. Again- so much history here. They have a ton of great exhibits placed around the building. It was mostly just cool to sit in the seats and imagine all of the incredible music history that happened on that stage.

We had some free time so we opted for a visit to Robert’s Western World. We had a blast listening to Eileen & the Silver Threads and enjoying beer and moon pies :) Fionnuala and I even hit the dance floor.

After Robert’s, we met up with a former colleague and his wife for dinner at The Pharmacy. Very cool little place with a backyard garden - and although it was steamy, the food was great.

9
Nashville

First up today was a visit to Third Man Records. In true Jack White fashion, the whole place follows a tight design scheme and I loved it! Not a detail is missed inside (although I didn’t take any pics in there - just trust me). We did get some cool stuff. Worth the venture out of downtown for sure.

Yesterday, the kids had so much fun at Robert’s Western World, that they begged to go back today. We had an awful lot of fun there too, so we obliged. Fionnuala couldn’t contain herself on the dance floor and her brother impressed by the band by requesting a slew of old country classics - he was especially puffed up when the other kids there asked for Carrie Underwood and Justin Bieber and the band said no!

But all that dancing and toe tapping tired this cowboy out...

After Cillian took his “nap” we walked back over to the Country Music Hall of Fame for the RCA Studio B tour. We hopped a bus for a short ride out to the studio. While the tour itself was short, it was really amazing to stand on the same floor that held countless legacy artists. It gave me chills. And the kids got to pose with the famous Steinway!

We got dropped back at the Hall of Fame, and entered the museum. I could have spent hours more in there. The first stop was an excellent Loretta Lynn exhibit. She’s been a favorite of mine since I was a kid, so I was pretty jazzed to see her honored like this.

The rest of the museum was pretty spectacular as well. There was a LOT of stuff in that museum and especially in the Outlaws & Armadillos exhibit on 70s country. Really great exhibit. It was so cool to see all of these guitars and stage costumes and boots and diaries - all laid out to soak up. And music - there was so much music.

Cillian got these three things to use as inspiration for a song.

We were all getting a bit hungry so we took up a recommendation to hit the White Horse Saloon. We had heard that it was a great place for music and dancing, but it didn’t exactly deliver. We DID get a brief line dance lesson, but after it was over, there was a long lag between the next set and the artist wasn’t really a dancing kind of gal. The food was good though and the kids got ridiculously large boots full of lemonade so there’s that.

After dinner, we headed back to Five Points and popped into the local record shop. The Groove is a great little shop - I found lots of cool stuff including some Christmas records!

To wind down, we all watched the first episode of Hee Haw (Loretta Lynn and Charley Pride were the musical guests). Cillian LOVED it! I miss that show...

And I will miss Nashville. This part of the trip went by way too fast and I can’t wait to come back here again. Cillian already said he wants to move here after college :)

Until next time Nashville!

10
Hodgenville

We couldn’t resist squeezing in one more chance for biscuits and live music this morning, so we started the day with brunch at The Sutler Saloon. They had live bluegrass music all morning and the food was great too. The Sutler is an up and coming neighborhood and part of what used to be the Melrose theater building. It’s pretty cool inside and the use of old boots to provide decor was an extra added touch to the already lively atmosphere.

After brunch, we said farewell to Nashville and barreled on to Kentucky. We arrived there around 2:30 p.m., losing an hour because of the time change. We met up with the Elders again at the Lincoln Memorial in Hodgenville and visited the cabin that isn’t really the cabin :) There was also a cool natural spring on site. There isn’t much else at the park, so we opted to check in to the hotel and drop our stuff of before dinner. We are staying at the Wingfield Inn and Suites in Elizabethtown and while it’s perfectly fine, I’m already missing the adorable little cottage in Nashville.

There are not a lot of options to eat around here, but we settled on a little place in Elizabethtown called Roxie’s. It’s not much to brag about (in just about every way), but the service was nice enough and the cocktails were only $1.99! The place is named for Roxanne Kelly, a lawyer who works at the adjoining courthouse, and also leaves her business cards between the ketchup and mustard.

We finished up our dinners and headed back to Hodgenville to see the Lincoln Jamboree. We have been wanting to do this since we started planning this road trip, so needless to say, I was pretty excited! The building itself is a bit dusty and old, but it’s also sweet and charming. Joel Ray Sprowls has been hosting this variety show for 64 years, and even after several strokes and a few broken bones, he is still at it! He’s 91 and can’t walk much, but he still managed to introduce the acts and tell a few jokes. The musicians were really great and ranged from folks who have been doing the show for 59 of the 64 years to a few young teenagers. It was THREE hours long and only cost $10 and was a true gem. I’m glad we got to go here before Sprowls passes - it’s a definite piece of history for sure.

Tomorrow is gonna be a long one - mostly spent in the car...Pittsburgh, here we come!

11
Cincinnati

Today was spent mostly in the car. There isn’t much open between Kentucky and Pennsylvania on a Sunday, so we put our heads down and pushed through.

We did stop in Cincinnati for lunch at Jefferson Social. This spot was right downtown and in the midst of the World Cup Viewing Party that was being held on the street. We missed the game, but got to see lots of France fans reveling in the streets.

We also took the opportunity to take a trip to the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center. The exhibit is incredible and moving and absolutely worth a stop if you are ever in the area. It was intense though and some things were really overwhelming for the kids. I was moved to tears at least twice. I’ve never been in a museum that is so quiet before. Everyone there was contemplative and respectful. They have an original slave pen that was moved from its original site and rebuilt inside the museum. The building held at least 32 slaves. There is nothing inside the building anymore except a small box in the back corner that is filled with shackles and chains. I left there determined to see a better future for this country. While it was a lot to swallow for the kids, I’m hopeful that they know we can never go back to that and that they will do better.

Onward to Pittsburgh. We didn’t stop again despite a few bathroom breaks and a quick dinner in Triadelphia. We arrived at the top of Mt. Washington to our Air BnB to be greeted by the owner Harry. He and his wife are really sweet and welcomed us in. This place isn’t quite as adorable as the one in Nashville, but it does the trick for the two short nights we are here. Not to mention, the view is incredible!

12
Pittsburgh

Our first full day in Pittsburgh started off in Church. We headed to Church Brew Works for lunch - the best kind of church around. The kids loved having pierogies on the menu and we stuffed ourselves with pepperoni roll and beer.

After lunch, we visited the Heinz History Center. This is a great museum - lots of Pittsburgh history and hands on exhibits. The kids loved it and I really enjoyed the Mr. Rogers exhibits.

Next up was RandyLand. This place is amazing and so much fun! And god - the pictures...

By this time, we were all hot and hungry so we popped over to Penn Brewery for dinner.

Dan found a cool river cruise about “Weird Pittsburgh” - right up Cillian’s alley and we managed to find discount tickets for the last cruise of the day. We parked out car back at the apartment and decided to take the Incline down to the dock.

The cruise was a lot of fun (and there was a bar!). Cillian was in stitches over Pittsburghese and loved all of the weird trivia he learned from the guide. Even better, the city looked stunning at night.

13
Pittsburgh

We packed up the apartment and the car and headed out for our last hurrah on this trip. First stop was the The Warhol. I’ve been wanting to visit here for years and both of the kids are learning about Warhol in some capacity or another, so they were excited too. It did NOT disappoint, although I thought it was odd how somber of a museum it is. Seems to be the anti-thesis of Warhol to have a stuffy museum of his work, but it was a great collection nonetheless.

After the museum, we headed to the area around PNC Park for lunch at Steel Cactus. It was absolutely beautiful so we sat outside and enjoyed the day before we piled back in the car.

This trip was the absolute best vacation we’ve ever taken. We saw so many cool places, met great people, ate lots of amazing food, spent time with some of our oldest and best friends and checked 7 states off the “visited” list. We are already planning the next one...

The kids will surely have a pretty great “what I did on my summer vacation” story in September :)