Little Molas Lake

After dinner I decided to walk on the Trail a bit in the quiet early evening. \240The trail brought me through meadows and pockets of spruce trees. \240I could feel the altitude if 11,000 feet. \240I stopped to examine a limestone outcrop that was chock full of crinoid sea-lilies and snails! \240Awesome! \240

In the still, fading light I saw some kind of grouse quietly stalking by. \240I’m guessing it was a Dusky Grouse. \240A few moments later there was some kind of mammal that looked a bit like an ermine with a coppery yellow coat, big ears, and a black tipped tail making its way across the rocks. \240It was a long tailed weasel! \240Trail magic indeed.

(Photo from Wikipedia)

(Silverton in the valley)

I found the visitor’s center right away and set up where to leave my car. \240Just had to leave my name and number and date of return at the desk. \240Afterward I strolled around town a bit imagining myself living in the 1800s and riding a rickety gondola at ridiculous heights to get to a mine up on a cliff. \240I wandered through the old Red-light district imagining my life as a bar maid or prostitute. \240Yuck.

Just then I realized my money was gone and I had no way of paying for a train ticket home. I was alone on the western frontier and I had no choice but to give my services for the evening at the Shady Lady Saloon. \240Just kidding!

The old housing from the miners’ families are colorfully painted and are now occupied by artisans and locals. \240Most of the old saloons are now bars, restaurants, or hotels. \240There is no shortage of fudge shops, ice cream parlors, and trinket shops. \240I did buy a T-shirt and continued to wander in and out of the shops and galleries.

Storm clouds were gathering as I made my way to the Durango/Silverton train stop. \240I feel a bit like Katniss Everdeen boarding the train from Disteict 12 heading into the Hunger Games arena. \240It is an un-nerving feeling to abandon you car and walk away from it with only your pack. \240I picked up a sandwich and soda from a grocery store but could only eat half of it. \240My nerves and anxiety are messing with my stomach. A half hour until departure. \240One of the workers stowed my pack in the box car and I was left to sit in the open-air gondola with only my nerves and my imagination running wild.

What a gorgeous ride! \240The last time I was on something like this I took the White Pass rail through Yukon in the early 2000s. The Animas River rushed by below the track. \240The train swayed right and left past tumbled down mines from the 1800s. \240Rocks jutted up from the other side of the river towering above the gorge. \240With in a half hour one of the conductors told me the train was slowing down and it was time for me to get off. \240I stepped off of the train and was handed my pack. \240I was the only one to get off. \240The train picked up speed and the passengers bound for Durango waved to me. \240One guy said, “Do you have enough food?” My pack was only half packed with essentials and my huge, heavy bear can stayed behind at Little Molas Lake.

The train was gone. \240I was completely alone and there were \240no trail in site. \240Which way do I go? I sat down on a rickety log bench to check my map. \240Looks like I was dropped off about a mile from where I needed to get the trail. \240I followed the train tracks north until finally I saw a comforting sign marking the CT. \240I crossed a bridge to the other side of the river. \240The trail began to climb up and up out of the gorge.

I kept climbing through Aspen and spruce. \240Molas Pass now behind me, The trail made a turn leading through an expanse of a meadow. \240Storm clouds had gathered right in the direction I needed to go. \240Thunder grumbled in the distance but lucky for me the storms were getting sheared off and did not build much. \240I made it back to my camp and the relative safety of my hammock. \240Thus ends day 1. \240Tomorrow is a full day with a full pack and digging cat holes. \240

(hiking toward Molas Lake)

(Little Molas Lake)

Home, Sweet Home!

The moon rose full and bright over the lake. \240All was still and silent except for some nearby campers and my trusty brook flowing near my hammock. \240I sat in my chair for a while with a perfect view of the full moon over the lake. \240I’m pretty sure I have the best camping spot here. \240Trail Magic eeek!!

Gorgeous sunny morning and already the climbing had begun. \240My pack felt pretty good except for the constant weight on my shoulders. \240That’s the way it is with ultralight backpacks. \240No load lifters. \240I made it 5 miles before I had to take it off and get a break. I was feeling hangry and the constant parade of mountain bikers wasn’t helping. \240The CT is also used by bike packers. \240I think it’s fantastic, I only wish they used a bell to let me know they are coming. \240I don’t hear them until they are right on top of me. \240I must have had to clear the trail for about 20 of them today. \240I heard one guy say to his buddy, “No conversation.” He meant from me. \240I think I might have heard him ask me where I was going. \240What was I supposed to do? \240Shout out my destination as he went wizzing by? \240Sheesh.

The trail climbed up above the tree line and I could see clouds just barely forming in the distance. \240I bet in a couple of hours they’ll grow enough to cause a bit of concern. \240I was hiking mile after mile through high alpine meadows full of clover, daisys, yarrow, and aster. \240I felt pretty good until around mile 8. \240The pack was really starting to dig into my shoulders and I was really starting to slow down. \240The altitude was taking its toll. \240I had to keep going though. \240I stopped several times for food and to filter water. \240Nine miles and then ten miles. \240I was dragging. \240A couple of thru hikers breezed past me. \240They said they were on day 23 and almost done with their 500 mile hike. \240All I could do was feel a bit jealous and then had to remind myself that at least I’m out here trying.

It looked leaden and threatening in the distance but I heard no thunder. \240I finally made it through the barren mountain pass and began the descent down to Cascade Creek. \240The terrain was steep but I was glad to see some trees again. \240After 13 miles I came upon a small camp area near a stream buried under the spruce trees. \240I decided to take it for the night. No sooner had I put my pack down, \240it started to rain. \240I put up my hammock and tied it to the side so that I could sit under the rainfly. \240Darn. \240I was just about to bathe. \240I stink pretty bad but won’t do anything about it tonight. \240I huddled under the rainfly as rain and hail came pouring down. \240I hope this rainfly holds. \240Cold and wet. \240Time for some dinner and an early night.

It’s a little after 8 and I’m still sitting here finishing up some gloppy biscuits and gravy. \240I’m not looking forward to putting on my stinky clothes. \240Should have brought \240a wool T shirt. \240Wool is a natural anti microbial. \240

By 9 I was finally on my way. \240I was glad to be back on the trail and out from under the dank trees. \240Clouds were already building and it was looking like storms were gathering already. \240I always take these treks in August, \240No snowy passes to contend with, No dangerous stream crossings, and no biting flies. \240Thunderstorms…LOTS of them. \240I never know what they will do. \240Downpour? \240Hail? Lightening? Or maybe just a dark, threatening sky that moves off elsewhere.

The first bit of the trail today was an incredible treat of waterfalls through Cascade Creek area. \240So much moisture and lush greenery.

I came across a placard in remembrance of a woman who spent a lot of time on this trail. \240I thanked her for her time here.

I hiked on. \240The trail was a narrow shelf hugging the verdant slope dotted with spruce and fir trees. \240

Gorgeous wildflowers were scattered everywhere and the views were stunning. \240

I enjoyed the warm sunshine while it lasted. \240By noon it had started to drizzle. \240I pressed on and nearly got stung by a swarm of ground bees that had their nest right alongside the trail. \240I ran and they didn’t come after me. \240I climbed up over Balsam Pass thankful the storms were not yet strong. \240

The trail emptied out onto a 4-wheeler road and I followed it until Celebration Lake. \240Although I had only come 6.5 miles, this was supposed to be my stopping point. \240It was raining so I put up my rainfly and got settled in. \240Might as well stay. \240I had a nice camp area and a good view of the pond. \240After the rain stopped I wiped myself down and bathed and then took a walk. \240Several 4-wheelers drove by and I wondered if it would be wise to stay here tonight. \240I scouted out the lake and then walked back into the trees when I heard another vehicle approaching. \240It was playing loud music and I dove deeper into the woods. \240Guys had gotten out at the lake and seemed like they were getting ready to party. \240I bush whacked to get back to my camp and decided to pack up and leave. \240I knew I’d feel safer if I moved on.

So long Celebration Lake. \240The trail climbed higher and thunder growled. \240I was above tree line and the trail was a narrow ledge on an extremely steep slope. \240There was absolutely no place to camp. \240I really hoped the storm wouldn’t unleash itself on me. \240I was the tallest thing around. \240On I pressed. \240No change, \240I got out my map and saw that it looked like the contour lines spread out a little farther up. \240Sure enough I crossed over a saddle and descended into a meadow. \240There were copses of trees and a small stream where I could get water. \240I found a nice spot in the trees at the edge of the meadow and near a mountain that is shear rock and loose talus. \240It looked as if a giant bulldozer just dumped a 1000 foot high jumbled up piles of rock here and then left it for more destruction elsewhere. \240I got my shelter up and then the rain started. \240I was expecting it to be a deluge but I was pleasantly surprised that the very dark clouds soon moved elsewhere. \240The rain stopped and I took a walk up the trail a ways. \240I’m glad I stopped where I did. \240I wasn’t feeling hungry yet so I decided to try to start a fire in a fire ring that someone else had established. Things were damp so I tried to gather up what dry starter and sticks I could find. \240I brought out my flint/steel sparker and tried to lay a spark in a small nest of dry, decomposed tree shavings. \240No dice. \240Next I tried my lighter. \240All it did was smoke. \240I moved to my emergency tea light candle to light small sticks on fire. \240That didn’t work either. \240I spent an hour trying and pretty much burned through my lighter. \240Feeling very frustrated I walked away and cried. \240I SUCK at starting fires. \240I can’t do it and if I had to depend on one for my life I’d die out here. \240I gave myself 5 minutes and tried again. I even tried with my paper map from day 1. Failed. \240I gave up and felt totally inadequate and defeated. \240I’m useless. \240If James were here he’d have a nice, toasty fire going. \240I sat for a while and then decided to collect dead, dry plants and seed heads. \240I tried the fire thing again. \240All I managed to do was watch a very quick flame that immediately went out. \240Totally done. \240Not trying anymore. \240SO frustrated with myself. \240Instead of enjoying my dinner next to a warm fire I sat in my chair shivering. \240I’ll warm up when I have to fetch water. \240The view from my campsite is wonderful so that is something.

I heard some rocks falling from the talus slopes. \240I never found out what it was. \240Could have been a big horn sheep, or another critter that set the rocks loose. \240It seems like it is going to be a quiet night. \240The storms have dissipated. \240It’s quiet…too quiet. \240The kind of quiet that keeps me up listening. \240It might be an ear plug night. \240

The trail skirted around the foot of the talus slope. \240I surveyed the marshy meadow below. \240I’m surprised that I haven’t seen much wildlife out here. \240I’ve seen a couple of deer, birds, a long tailed weasel, \240marmots and a cute little rodent that looks like an oversized hamster with out a tail. \240 This little guy, called the American Pica keeps popping out of the rocks yelling, “Meek!” \240I’ve seen lots of elk tracks but no elk.

It’s a mountain bluebird sky type of day. \240I love starting out in the morning. \240Nothing hurts yet and everything is fresh and new.

I climbed up and stopped at a place called Section Point. \240I was treated to 360 degree views of the surrounding mountains. \240Stunning. \240

From there the trail tucked back into the trees and then brought me over a ridge. \240In front of me a wonderful valley opened up. \240I was starting to feel a bit low on energy so I stopped for a lengthy lunch break along Silver Creek. \240

I’m not sure how far I will go today. \240I’m approaching one of the last reliable sources of water for the next 14-20 miles and then I’ll need to make a decision if I want to haul water in order to go further tonight. After lunch I had a nasty little bugger of a climb to get up and over Blackhawk Pass. My legs felt like lead.

I reached Straight Creek early in the afternoon. \240There wasn’t any \240place to camp and I didn’t really want to settle in for the night yet. \240Since this is the last water source I filled up my extra 2 liter water pouch plus my liter bottles. \240Now my pack was a miserable 10 pounds heavier. \240I should have filled up more of my containers because for the next 20 miles there may not be any reliable water sources. \240I moved on from there thinking I’d aim for Hotel Draw \240another couple of miles ahead. \240When I looked at the map though I saw 4-wheeler roads intersecting in that area. \240Could be noisy. \240I’ll try to \240find something before I get there. \240The elevation was dropping and in sunny locations the Aspen were coming in. \240So nice to see them. I saw one site that would have worked but it was still early so I pressed on. I came through a meadow with a stand of spruce trees and a nice view of the mountains across the valley. \240I decided to stay put. \240My neck was bothering me and I had a blazing headache. I was less than a mile from the dirt road and decided that was close enough. \240The only issue was that the campsite was only feet from the trail. I did experience some trail magic though! \240Fresh wild strawberries right on my site. \240I set up my camp and wondered if it would rain. \240There was a thunderstorm across the valley. \240I thought I heard water in the small depression in the nearby meadow so I walked through the wildflowers to check it out. \240No water and suddenly I felt a stinging, searing \240pain in my lower left calf followed by another in my right bicep. \240I ran to get away. \240Stinging pulsating pain for about 5 minutes! \240I hoped this wouldn’t be the one time I became allergic. \240I didn’t see any stinger so assumed it was a wasp or hornet. \240I just got stung a few weeks ago while at a farm for work and it felt and looked the same. \240That time I was stung the pain totally went away come evening. \240A day or so later though I had a large, itchy localized reaction that lasted about a week. \240I don’t even have any hydrocortisone cream so I’m just going to have to deal with it. \240There is a lot of fly and bee activity here. \240All I here all around me is buzzzzzzzz. \240The bees are attracted to my purple hat and orange chair.

The storm moved off so no issues as of yet. \240I sat down to study my map. \240I’m worried about my water situation. \240I think I’ll be okay as most of the seasonal drainages have been flowing. \240If that is the case then it’s 14 miles to the next water source. \240Another bit of trail magic appeared. \240A mountain biker stopped to say hello and I mentioned that I was worried about my water quantity. \240He gave me nearly a liter! \240I’m still worried but not as much. \240Tomorrow is going to be a long day with lots of climbing and a heavy pack due to the extra water. \240I hope I have more enery than I did today. After dinner it was time to graze for strawberries. \240Ah strawberries and Nutella! \240Yum!

Blackhawk Pass

(That’s my shoe print above the bear print)

I was glad when the trail opened up and crossed the flank of huge, sloping meadows. \240The trail wound in and out of the forest only to pop back out again in the sunny meadow with a spectacular view of the valley below.

My pack felt heavy today with the little extra water I was carrying. \240I drank only when I felt thirsty to try to conserve it. \240I had to hike 14 miles today to get to water and I was nervous it would be dried up. \240I took several breaks throughout the day to give my aching shoulders a rest. \240I think for my next hike I’ll invest in a new pack. This one just sits right on my shoulders. \240Might try an Osprey pack next time. \240They certainly aren’t ultralight but if I’m more comfortable I might be able to hike more miles without constant shoulder and neck aches. \240I didn’t see too many people today. \240Just a few mountain bikers and about 4 hikers. \240At one point there was a girl behind me and I let her go past. \240She said she was covering 23 miles today. \240Ah to be in your 20s. \240I felt bad about myself and just felt that I’m not a real thru-hiker because I can’t do a 500 mile trail like this in a month. \240The John Muir took me just under 6 weeks and that was barely 300 miles. \240I was feeling pretty downcast when about 20 minutes later I saw 2 women up ahead talking. \240One was the girl I had just met and the other was an older woman. \240The twenty something moved on. \240The older woman stayed to chat a few minutes. \240She’s doing the whole trail at age 66! \240She told me to not even bother worrying about the young punks packing in 25 miles per day. \240She said to me, “Are they on my hike? \240Do I have to worry about keeping up?” “No! I’m by myself out here so I can go my own pace”. \240She also said that her trail name is Mother Turtle because she’s slow and steady. \240I really needed to hear that! \240I felt so uplifted after talking to her. \240I went on my way and she in the opposite direction. \240I soon had to stop again. \240My shoulders and neck!!!! I pressed on. \240Unfortunately the last bit of my day was an ass kicker of a climb for me. \240I was so sore and tired! \240I could hardly put one foot in front of the other. \24013 miles in and I reached Deer Creek. \240It was a mud puddle. \240Mother Turtle told me to go another mile and I’d come to a small stream. \240On I climbed. \240Then finally I heard it! \240Glorious, life-giving water!!!! It was a trickling stream but that was all I needed. \240I filtered 4.5 liters and then headed back down to where I saw a nice camp. \240It’s been a long, dry day. \240It’s not that this 14 mile stretch is a desert, there is certainly plenty of lush vegetation here but you are hiking on top of a ridge all day. \240This camp has a trail called Scenic Overview that I’ll poke around and check out the sunset later this evening.

After dinner I stowed my bear can and started exploring. \240One of my favorite things to do at an interesting camp area is to wander around and see what I can find. \240Sometimes the trail gives you little gifts. \240I may get a beautiful moonrise or sunset, a cool rock, some lovely flowers or fresh wild strawberries. \240Earlier on my hike today I hiked through some gorgeous petrified wood pieces. \240In my wandering this evening I found a beautiful full indigenous arrowhead! \240It was just lying in the middle of the trail. \240Surely one of the thru hikers dropped it. \240Maybe they carried it as a talisman. \240I picked it up. \240It was dirty but beautiful. \240I kept my eyes glued to the ground and found another small piece of rock that looked like it had been worked on. \240Maybe the arrowhead eroded out of the ground during a rain event and I just happened to find it. I hope I didn’t just pull a Bilbo and pick up the Ring of Power. \240Sometimes the trail can be a harsh place too. \240Getting stung by wasps, feeling so tired you can hardly walk, or smelling like a sewer. \240We’ll see what tomorrow brings. \240I hope it’s more gifts.

Indian Ridge continued to climb through the forests with the occasional view of the valley and distant peaks. \240Things began to change. \240Remember what I said about this trail compared to the JMT? \240Well now I had a major climb up to over 12,000 feet and it was steep and very rocky over talus piles and ankle twisters. \240Every time I thought I was near the top it kept going. \240I had to stop to collect my breath a lot. \240I’m still not quite acclimated. \240After 6 miles I finally reached the top of what I call “Lead-leg Mountain”. \240Next was a section over talus across a razor ridge. \240Good Lord this is like a daily occurrence on the JMT! \240

The views were amazing but I was glad when The descent began. It was slow going picking my way down rubble but it helped to see my lunch spot (Taylor Lake) up ahead.

Ahh! \240I set up my chair at water’s edge and enjoyed a relaxing long break.

I re-filled my water and checked out the map. \240I still had another 7 miles to go but it was mostly a descent. Easy right?

I hit the trail again and for a short while the trail was buttery smooth. \240I came to a dirt road and trailhead parking lot. I quickly found the CT from there and noticed the trail went uphill. \240What? \240No! \240I really didn’t want to climb anymore. \240I’m still not adjusted to hiking with a pack at 12,000 feet and even up this little hill I had to stop. \240The trail lead on and I crossed a small saddle. \240Up ahead of me, high on a cliff overlooking the plunging valley below was a small cabin and a trail leading up a steep hill toward it. \240What?? No!!! No more climbing for me today! \240Just when I was summoning up my courage the trail took a sharp turn to the left and started a harrowing descent. I just crossed over Kennebec Pass and the trail took a nose dive. I lengthened my poles to help with the rocky, steep descent. \240Up ahead was a steep talus slope and the trail went right through it. \240All of the rocks were loose so I had to take it super slowly. \240One slip and yikes! \240I was very glad to get on more stable footing. \240This really is like the JMT!

The trail tucked into the trees. \240I looked back and saw a mountain biker gingerly riding through the talus. \240When he passed me I said, “Man your brave! \240I was scared and glad to be off of it!” \240The trail continued to plummet. \240I was up over 12,000 and my destination was at 9500. \240Down, down, down I went. \240At one point I stepped off of the trail to let a family climb the trail in the opposite direction. \240The guy had a chubby toddler in a kid pack, an older man was with them, and the mom was hiking with a very young little girl. \240Damn! \240I told them how amazing it was to see them out here on a trail like this with youngsters. \240I suggested they turn around before the talus slope. \240Down, down, down. \240The trail went through a rainforest of greenery and wet seeps. \240It looked perfect for bear and I saw scat. \240Time to talk to myself and sing a song. \240By mile 13 I was feeling whooped. \240A couple of guys passed me as if I were standing still. \240Somehow the almond butter I ate finally kicked in and I moved a bit faster. \240The trail continued to descend. \240I didn’t want to climb or descend! \240I looked out and noticed a huge gorge that still looked hundreds of feet lower. \240I think that is Gains Gulch where I plan to camp. \240The trail lead me deep into a narrow gorge. \240There was a nice stream, but no place to camp! \240I had to just keep going. \240Finally at mile 14 another hiker came in the opposite direction. \240I asked if there was any place to camp within a few miles and he said, “Yes, right over there.” \240Not even 100 feet more and there tucked away under a tree was a small streamside campsite. \240I’ll take it!!! I didn’t want to run the risk of hiking more only to find other spots already taken.

I set up camp and felt a bit nervous about flash floods. \240I doubt I’ll need to worry about bear down here or lightening but definitely floods. \240Probably be fine but it is a concern. \240Thunder roared in the canyon and it sounded like cannon fire. \240It rained a little but soon moved off. \240Tomorrow is another 14 mile day. \240I bet if I were out here another week I’d be doing 15-20 mile days. \240It takes the body time to adjust to altitude and being on your feet all day with a heavy pack. Right now I’m comfortable with 10 miles. \240The dang bear can is a bear. \240I could have gone much lighter carrying an Ursak but I opted for that stinking can.

Gimme Shelter!

After dinner I went out for dessert. \240I found fresh red raspberries on my walk! \240Really delicious. \240It’s like a rain forest down here. \240

Tomorrow will be here soon. \240I hope this little spruce tree can hold me up for the night. \240It’s slouching a lot!

I passed the last of the campsites just before a footbridge.

The mist was rising out of the gorge swirling around the Aspen trees across the gorge. \240

The trail started climbing out of the gorge. \240It was a vigorous 2 mile climb. \240I felt pretty good as my pack has only one more day worth of food and I was at a much lower elevation. \240Still, it was steep and I had to take a few breathers, \240after 2 miles the trail still continued to climb but not as steeply. \240I stopped for water and a snack break. \240I sat on a log and noticed a skunky-wet dog smell. \240I thought it was a nearby plant but then I realized it was me! \240No more nylon shirts! \240Next time I go with wool even though they are heavier.

I found a feather on the trail so I rigged out my hat, because why the heck not?

The trail kept climbing until mile 5. \240I was treated to a wonderful overlook. It would have been a great place for lunch but I wasn’t ready to stop yet.

I’d better get a move-on. \240I had been hiking less than 2 miles per hour because I kept stopping to take pictures of berries and plants in hopes of identifying them later. \240Isn’t it amazing that there is a berry season in August? \240

I only ate the raspberries because I’m not 100% sure of what everything else is.

The trail went through some lovely Aspen groves. \240Aspen are my favorite! \240Aren’t they gorgeous? \240Light green, heart-shaped leaves waving “hello” with bright white bark! \240

I stopped for lunch, spread out my rainfly to dry and had a picnic lunch. \240A solo woman they hiker came by to chat. \240Her trail name is Cupcake and she’s been on the CT for a month. \240She finishes tomorrow. \240I asked her how many miles she’s been doing and she said it’s varied between 12-25 per day. \240That sounds doable once you get your trail legs. \240(Umm maybe not 25 miles.) My trail legs are just arriving and I finish tomorrow! \240Boo!

I spent 40 minutes on my lunch break. \240I started on the trail again and moments later there was Cupcake drying out her tent. \240I couldn’t help but ask her how she uses only a 45 liter pack. \240She takes minimal clothes, sleeps in what she hikes in (or nothing) and uses 14oz Zpack tent. \240I’ve been looking at those Zpack tents but not sure I want to invest in one. \240James gave me my Kammock Hammock and it weighs in at 2 pounds. \240It’s just so darn comfortable put together with my thermorest air pad! \240It’s also nice to hang out under the rainfly in my chair during rain and not have to sequester myself in a tent. \240I don’t want to sleep in my hike clothes either. \240I have been hiking in my wool long sleeve shirt and sometimes sleeping in that but it doesn’t stink so bad. \240I don’ t like bare, grungy skin bare in my sleeping bag or butt cheese rot loose in the bag. \240 So you see, I’m particular.

I continued on my way wondering when Cupcake would pass me. \240She passed me a few miles later. Damn I’m slow and I thought I was trucking along!

The ecology changed. \240After a morning full of Aspen it became sandier and drier and looked much more like the lower elevation Sandias at home with ponderosa and gamble oak. \240Sometimes the trail would take a turn through a wetter area and I’d be back in Aspen again.

The trail was about to dive down to Junction Creek. \240That’s where I planned to camp. \240Right before I started the switchbacks there was Cupcake taking a short rest. \240I made it to the bottom and was so excited to see a wonderful stream. \240I quickly found two trees for a hammock. \240I dumped all of my stuff, put on my crocks and wadded in the chilling water. \240Ahhh! \240I had myself a little bath and felt quite refreshed. \240Cupcake decided to press on to the end of the trail. \240“Maybe I’ll see you on the train Squirrel!”, she said as she continued on her way. \240(Squirrel is my trail name)

I put up my hammock but soon realized that thru hikers don’t camp here. \240The end of the CT is a scant 2.5 miles from here so they just push on through. \240Why would you camp only a couple of miles from the end? \240Well, for me it would have been an 18.5 mile day and I wasn’t sure I’d handle that very well and my hotel reservations are for tomorrow night. \240Truth be told I think I could have done it, but I would have been pretty miserable. \240Right now i’m still a 10-15 mile hiker. \240The 13 miles I did today were enough. \240It’s lovely being set up down here along Junction Creek but there are a lot of local folks Mt biking, running and day hiking. \240I feel awfully vulnerable so close to civilization. \240At least it doesn’t have a trashy, graffiti feel. \240As a matter of fact I saw almost no garbage left behind on the entire trek. \240So refreshing compared to Albuquerque where there’s garbage everywhere and I’d never camp in the Bosque along the Rio Grande even if you paid me. \240I’m still pretty nervous here though and sort of wish I just pushed on through. Sucks that humans worry me more than anything else.

Beautiful spot for my last night though! \240This week has gone by so fast. \240I’m not really ready to be done, but that’s all the time I’ve allowed myself. \240I think I probably could have completed this trek a day or two earlier but I felt that my first 3 days needed to be lower mileage. \240

Today I hike into Durango. \240I can’t get into my hotel room until 3 or 4 so I guess I’ll take my time, explore and walk around Durango. \240Want to hear something stupid that I did? \240I neatly packed a small overnight bag with clean clothes, razor, shampoo and conditioner thinking I’d have it for Durango. \240Hullo!!! Duh!!! Not lugging that around in a backpack for a week. \240It’s in my car in Silverton. \240At least I’ll have clean clothes for the drive home.

I picked up the rest of my camp and finally left around 11. \240I can’t believe how heavy my pack still is! \240During my hike out I started thinking about the trek I want to do next summer. \240How will I lighten my load for the 165 mile Tahoe Rim Trail? \240No chair, possibly have to bite the bullet and invest in an expensive UL tent (boo). Only one pair of shorts. \240No bear can.

I stopped by a wonderful place along the stream and decided to take a dunk, \240Yow that was cold but so refreshing on a hot day!

Oh this is a cute little sign. \240Mountain lions active in the area. \240This is why I never start hiking at the crack of dawn like so many others do. \240Nope! \240I start my hiking after 7:30 with the hopes that if a mountain lion can’t find a good deer there are plenty of early bird thru hikers to feast on. \240Just kidding. \240

I continued to poke along the trail until just 2 miles later I reached the end. \240Just like that I was done. \240A couple of day hikers gave me the congratulatory gift of taking my picture near the sign. \240Wahoo! \240

I took off my pack and hit the pit toilet. \240Then I threw out all of my garbage and leftover food. \240The inside of my bear can was wet and smelled like vomit. \240As I was sitting on a rock looking at my map for how to get to Durango, a guy came over to chat. \240His trail name was Arizona and he was getting ready to hike the CT from here to Silverton. \240He offered me a ride to Durango but I declined. \240I’d only hiked a few miles and I wanted to enjoy the Dalla Mountain open Space Trails to get to town. \240He gave me a whole cucumber! \240Oh it was so crisp and fresh!!! Crunch! \240I donned my pack and started hiking the road in the direction of the trail system. \240My cucumber was grasped in my hand like a turkey leg and I sounded like Bugs Bunny as I wandered along the roadside. \240Man the houses! \240Every single one of them was a pipe dream to me. \240Small to extravagant homes with real grass that grows unassisted, aspens, ponderosa, and a creek through their properties. \240AND only a mile from a fresh creek dip! \240I’d have to drive 2 hours to find that! \240Guessing even the modest homes were well over a million. \240Sigh.

I picked up the Junction trail. \240The Dalla Mountain trail system reminded me a lot of Gutierrez Canyon by us. \240No way could I take my mountain bike on it. \240It was way too steep and rocky for my abilities.

Durango lay nestled in the valley below. \240A few miles later I was finished with the trails and hiking toward my hotel.

6.5 miles later I arrived at the Caboose Motel only to find there is no one at the desk until check-in time at 4. \240Darn. \240I had an hour and a half to kill and was hoping to ditch my pack. \240I turned around and hoofed it with my pack a half mile down the road to a pizza place. \240I ordered a pint and got to talk to Liam while I waited for my pizza. \240It tasted so good! \240The crust was flavorful and doughy. \240Yum!

It started to rain so I moved to a table inside. \240Good thing too because I had left my poles by the bar! \240After stuffing my face I went back to the motel and sat on the steps until it was time to check in. \240Imagine my surprise when the girl told me that my reservation was for tomorrow night! \240I don’t even know what day it is and I either booked for the incorrect date or completed my hike a day early. \240Luckily she was able to cancel that and change it for tonight.

The motel is sort of a no-frills funky 1960’s feel little bungalow place. \240It has all of the things that I found necessary; a shower, coffee pot, microwave, and mini-fridge. Back in the day a place like this would be $50 per night. \240I had to shell out $136. \240 Right away I pulled out my reservation for my train back to Silverton. \240Sure enough it was booked for the 19th not the 18th. \240I called and explained the situation and got it changed to tomorrow. Phew.

Next item on my agenda was to dump my pack and walk to the grocery store to buy shampoo, conditioner, a razor, breakfast for tomorrow, and snacks for the train ride. \240I paid .50 to choose the cash back option just so that I could have a dollar for the trolley tomorrow. \240Oh well. \240I carried my bag of loot back to my room and took a long shower. \240The contents of my pack are scattered all over as I have to re-pack everything and lug 2 large shampoo/conditioner bottles as travel size was not an option for purchase.

After my shower I cleaned out my nasty bear can and repacked my bag.

Yup, it’s only 7pm and I’m laying in bed relaxing and it is still raining here! \240So much more moisture up here than in Arrakis, the planet Dune where I live where I wonder when we will have to recycle the water from the towels \240mopped off of our bodies after a shower. \240I’m tired and we’ll fed. \240Good night!

I went up to a man dressed in railroad 1800s garb and showed him my ticket. \240“Oh your going all the way to Silverton? Hmm most folks with backpacks all get off for Chicago Basin. \240Not sure how they’ll handle that.” \240Huh??? What does that mean? \240The woman on the phone whom I booked the ticket through also seemed confused. \240I guess my way of doing thing is unconventional. \240Nonetheless it worked out just fine. \240The conductor in charge of the box car where backpacks are stowed for travel knew exactly what to do. \240The air was filled with western high adventure action music. \240Tourists wandered the sidewalk in front of the train taking pictures and finding their seats. \240I got myself settled in the open air gondola.

The train departed precisely at 8:15 and we were rolling through Durango. \240Local and tourists alike stopped what they were doing and waved as we passed by. \240The town of Durango drifted by and soon we were in rural farmland. \240The scenery began to have a more rugged feel with rocky cliffs and ponderosa trees clinging to the crevasses between the rocks. \240The sky was a cerulean blue with big puffy white clouds. \240It was a fine Colorado morning. \240I stood up and breathed the fresh air. \240Just then an older couple asked if there was room for two right next to me. \240There really wasn’t and I didn’t have much of a seat if I chose to sit. \240I wasn’t planning on sitting anyway because after this I’d have a 5 hour drive home. \240They kept trying to scooch down knowing they were encroaching on my seat. \240At one point the husband put his arms around his wife and I smiled down at them. \240Somehow conversation got stated and they were a wonderful retired couple from Dallas on vacation and on their way up to Denver to visit their son. \240On the other side of the gondola were 7 guys no more than a year or two older than Liam. \240I overheard one of them tell another passenger that they all went to high school together and now they are in college in Utah. \240They were headed out to Chicago Basin for a 50 mile trek together. \240How cool! \240My poor kid has just started his senior year in high school and is working too. \240He gets home at around 7! \240I hope he is able to have experiences like this.

The diesel chugged up a steep incline and we were floating at the edge of a huge gorge.

The man from Dallas kept commenting on where he would fly fish in the river. \240I told him I am a perfectly lousy fisher woman but I’m learning. \240I asked him quite a few fishing questions and learned a thing or two.

The train kept ticking along. \240Suddenly the blue sky turned a charcoal grey. \240The temperature dropped by 30 degrees and ice started forming on the windows. \240The lights flickered and went off. \240“Why are we stopping?”, the concerned passengers asked in whispered tones. \240A black shadow entered the train and I fainted. \240Just kidding!!! We stopped to let some backpackers off for their adventure.

Another stop brought me full circle. \240We had quickly stopped at Elk Park and I saw the little bench where I sat down to figure out how to find the trail. \240I can’t believe it’s been a week! \240A half hour later we reached Silverton. \240

I got off the train and picked up my pack. \240I started to walk toward Blair Street and decided on High Noon Burgers for lunch. \240I ordered a green chili cheeseburger, onion rings and a small soda. \240Twentfive bucks and it was very average. \240Next I spent $6 on a single scoop ice cream cone of rather flavorless cookies and cream. \240Geez. \240I’m done greasing out with food. \240After lunch I wandered around the shops and picked up a Silverton sticker for my bear can.

I got to my car and began the journey home. \240This was a wonderful experience and has me excited for next summer. \240I’ll either do another section of the CT or the Tahoe Rim Trail. \240Either way, it will take a bit more logistical planning than this trek did. \240The mountains are calling and I must go!