
Look how happy they look!
They were until they arrived at the airport and found out their flight was delayed for 2 hours causing them to miss their connection to Montenegro. \240Boo Hoo!
On the 102 bus heading to the airport
Look how happy they look!
They were until they arrived at the airport and found out their flight was delayed for 2 hours causing them to miss their connection to Montenegro. \240Boo Hoo!
Off to Montenegro. \240It was rainy in Houston but we took the 102 bus to the airport.
Don’t they look like a happy couple!
That’s because they haven’t found out that their flight was delayed 2 hours and they have missed their connection to Montenegro.
Finally on the plane to Istanbul
Still looking happy but……..
Wondering what they will do with us in Istanbul as there is no flight until Nov. 14 to Montenegro.
After arriving there at 8 pm their time we walked it seemed like miles in their huge but gorgeous airport terminal looking for the Turkish Air transfer desk, then on to the hotel desk for where they would put us up for the night then trying to go through customs and finding out we had to have a visa to spend the night in Turkey. So more walking to find that place. \240When we get there we find out that it is cash only and we have no Turkish money. \240We are really tired at this point but one of those incredible moments happened at this counter. \240There was a man and his son having to do the same as us and when he heard our predicament he handed us 60 US dollars and said he was happy to help us. \240He was from Memphis, Tenn. \240Isn’t is wonderful to know there are still good people in the world ready to help a total stranger.
Finally we are on the plane to Podgorica and we are hoping our rental car is still available. It is a smaller airport that Hobby only one very small terminal. \240The nicest young man helped us with the car, no problem being a day late and Turkish Air will pay for that day!
\240 A baby Skoda Citigo
Off we went Virpazar and the first thing we realized is how close everything is.
Now we are two hours earlier than Instanbul and who knows how many hours from Houston. \240Our bodies cannot figure out what time it is. \240We have already had two breakfasts. \240One in the Turkish Air lounge, one on the plane and now thinking we will have lunch in Virpazar we find that they are still only serving breakfast!!!
We are too early for our apartment so we have our 3rd breakfast. \240Beer and fritters, donuts with no sugar. \240Honey and a local cheese served with them.
Besac Heritage Retreat
Winery & Restaurant
We find out there is a beautiful old fortress near by that we can walk to. \240It is now a winery and restaurant. \240It sure felt good to walk.
Virpazar, Montenegro pop. 87 really
Such a tiny little place right beside Lake Skadar, the 2nd largest lake in Europe. Our host Zoran Dejic is delightful and we are staying in the apartment above his.
View from our balcony
Mostly in this tiny town are restaurants and people wanting to take you for a tour on Lake Skadar.
Believe it or not after 3 breakfasts and suffering greatly from jet lag we still managed to eat supper at another one of the many places to eat in Virpazar.
This restaurant specialized in domestic food of this region. \240Fish from the lake and local delicacies. \240We tried black rissoto (squid ink) fabulous, trout with what they called potato salad but was just boiled potatoes. \240David tried carp but we agreed the trout was the best and so much wine here. \240The owner served us the red wine he makes. \240The beautiful house in which we ate belonged to his grandfather. And much of the furniture was hand made by him and his brother with local wood. Amazing!
Rustic furniture
We were the only guests and the owner Darko Dabovic, who spoke very good English entertained us for the whole meal
Quite the woodworker is Darko
This is one of his wines St. Thomas a lovely red.
Virpazar, Montenegro Lake Skadar
Today is a hiking day. \240We are hiking about 4 miles to another little village called Dupilo which has some beautiful waterfalls. \240These are not 4 flat miles but mostly uphill. \240Two of the town dogs followed us the whole way.
When we got there we were treated to a local lunch at Country House Dajkovic. \240Waaaay more food than any two people could eat. \240Most of the food including her homemade red wine and two different liqueurs lemon/sage and walnut. \240Tanya Dajkovic was our host and grew and made most of the things we ate.
We ate on the terrace with a panoramic view of the mountains and above us was a kiwi tree with literally 100’s of the fruit hanging there. \240Vineyards are all around and we passed an olive grove on the way up. Such a perfect day!
Made it to the waterfall
The Kiwi Tree
Tanya said the tree was 36 years old and she makes kiwi marmalade from all this fruit.
The Wine C
Today was a hiking day to the Dupilo water falls. \240It was about 4 miles from Virpazar to Dupilo and definitely not Houston flat.
We were hiking to Country House Dajkovic where we would be treated to local cuisine, homemade wine and lemon and walnut liqueurs. \240Stuffed cabbage rolls, homemade prosciutto, local cheese, brownie Montenegro and wild boar goulash plus potatoes and stuffed peppers and cucumber and tomato salad. \240Waaaay more than two people could eat! We sat on the terrace with a gorgeous view of mountains.
Country House Dajkovic
After lunch we hiked to the waterfalls. \240half mile there and back which felt like 10 miles with the ups and downs.
Dupilo Falls
We had actually read about this hike before coming to Montenegro. In a village this small everyone knows or is related to everyone. Zoran our host helped us with the organization. \240It was hard hiking but the views and food were well worth the effort.
Boat tour of Lake Skadar today
Private boat tour Lake Skadar
LakeSkadar is part of a National Park in Montenegro and Virpazar is located on this lake. \240Our host Zoran arranged this private boat tour for us. \240It was absolutely amazing. \240So many different water fowl and we visited the Kom Monastery which is on one of the islands in the lake. \240There is one monk who lives there full time.
Gate to Kom Monastery
We walked around the grounds of the monastery and were able to go into the very old (1427) chapel complete with frescos.
Serbian Orthodox
Kom Monastery frescos and even outside the walls were beautifully painted.
Old frescos inside the chapel
Outer wall of the chapel.
End of Lake Skadar tour
Tomorrow we continue on to Bar, Montenegro. \240This place has been magical. \240Can’t wait to see what will be next!!
We have arrived in Bar, which is about a 30 minute drive from Virpazar. \240It is a much larger city beside the Adriatic Sea. \240We were quite lost trying to find our apartment but thankfully Google maps got us there. \240Our host had tried to make a video of her driving, we hope someone else holding the camera but we became hopelessly lost trying to use that. \240
Balcony view of mountain side of Bar
I hope to get better photos of the Adriatic Sea on another day. \240Our neighbor straight ahead has an orange grove in their backyard. \240Many orange trees here in Bar. Our first goal was to get breakfast food at the local market Idea which we can walk to.
After David’s nap it was time for supper. \240It starts getting dark around 4 pm but we found a restaurant within walking distance called Berlin. \240It was like visiting a junk store of every kind of antique tools, plows, pots and pans, fishing nets etc. \240they did have a nice outdoor eating area and we were the only customers except for 4 old gentlemen who obviously were regular drinkers.
Entrance to Berlin
Really nice outside and the owner brought us each a tiny glass of liqueur made from quince fruit which is mostly grown in Turkey.
Outside garden at Berlin
Quince Schnapps
Very strong similar to what we were served in Dupilo.
Cepavi
Sorry to have this twice. \240Scroll on by.
This is a traditional Montenegrin dish with sausages, French fries and onion. \240We saved some for breakfast.
We also passed a little bakery on our way back to the apartment and purchased a Burek. \240A Montenegrin pastry that is a fast breakfast with meat or cheese. \240We are trying every food that we read about before coming. \240We are now near the sea so mussels are on the horizon.
Bedroom, living room, breakfast room and kitchen all in one space.
This apartment is new but it is like living in an IKEA display plus small bathroom BUT it does have a washing machine. \240Yea for clean clothes. \240David measured 260 sq ft. Ha ha. Very cozy!
After breakfast we got ready to make the trek uphill to Stari Bar or Old Town Bar. \240There so many beautiful vistas on the way up that you honestly didn’t feel that you had walked that far. 53 minutes!
It was an amazing place.
Pedestrian Street Stari Bar
We found this wonderful restaurant that we had read about before coming. It said it one of the best in the old town. \240Now we are in olive oil country with olive groves everywhere and orange and pomegranate trees. \240Fresh juice squeezed right on the street.
Home of grilled octopus and squid
Started with tomato bruschetta
The restaurant makes their own olive oil and wine. \240This was outstanding with fabulous bsalmic vinegar.
We chose the Seafood mix
It was accompanied by a pesto risotto and eggplant and tomato plus grilled peppers and zucchini.
Olive garlic pesto
This was so very good with their home baked bread. \240This is a lot of food pictures but such an outstanding meal.
A magical moment in the restaurant
This is one of those things that happen to you when you could not have possibly planned it. \240As we are sitting at our table a large group came in and these 4 gentlemen sat near us. \240They were in Montenegro to learn about tourism at a seminar being held in Bar. \240From left to right, Alex whose degree and job is a geographer, Mattis, an electrical engineer, Bekim, an Anthropologist and the guy in white jacket, the bus driver! \240They all work in tourism in their countries.
They were from Serbia, Montenegro and Kosovo. \240Well, believe me, they were more than happy to give us all kinds of good information and all spoke English as well as we do. \240It was a truly delightful and surprising time and now we have another side trip thanks to them.
David standing by the olive presses
This is in the entrance to the Fortress and Citadel that sits atop Stari Bar. \240I have way too many pictures to share but will put a few here.
One of many churches that remain
Many parts of the fortress date back to the 6th century. Next conquered by the Venetians and then the Ottomans. \240It was finally reclaimed in 1877 by the Montenegrins. An earthquake destroyed what was left after an explosion in early 20th century. \240People have moved back and it is thriving again but rather touristy.
Cold and windy at the top
Lots of climbing all over this fortress and places that would probably never be allowed at home.
Bar Aqueduct
This was build during the Ottoman Empire 16th century. \240Served as the water supply for Stari Bar. \240It brought water 3km from Mount Rumija. 17 large arches 18 massive pillarsThe water channel is formed on the upper surface where jointly connected stoneware pipes were placed. \240We think we are so clever now!
Glorious sunset
View walking back to our IKEA display home. \240Actually it is fine but a sofa bed is not that good for old people. Haha
A little bit of a late start this morning but it is a lazy Sunday in Bar, Montenegro and this was our day to go see the sea. \240Another long walk there but beautiful sights all along the way. \240The mountains on one side, the Adriatic on the other.
Bar photo op
A gracious lady agreed to take our picture. The people could not be nicer and actually many speak some English.
By the seaside cafe
We decided to have pizza today. \240We had such wonderful pizza when we went to Croatia we hoped it would be the same. \240It wasn’t but it was yum and we will have again for our supper.
Sideways trees.
Never seen this and it was only in this area of the beach. \240The Adriatic is a beautiful blue (comparing to Galveston). The beaches were mostly empty. \240We saw one brave man swimming!
Orange trees in everyone’s yard
Since orange trees are simply every where we had to stop a get a few for the road. \240David has already tried and said they were very good.
Our orange sale
We tried to visit King Nikola’s Palace which faces the sea but it was closed. \240We will probably try tomorrow before we head on to Kotor.
St. Jovan Vladimir Orthodox Church
Thankfully this church was open and it was unbelievably beautiful. \240I am just including three pics but probably have 50.
Looking inward
This church was built toward the end of the 20th century but St Jovan Vladimir is the most historic of all Serbian saints and is known as the protector of Bar.
Looking back toward entrance
Every square inch was covered in the most beautiful frescos, gorgeous icons, mosaics, marble columns. \240So ornate. No pews so standing church. \240Wish we could have heard a service in there. \240We will try again next Sunday to find a service.
a beautiful Orthodox cross from their gift shop
All in all another perfect day🥰
Off we go to Kotor, the city that began this journey to Montenegro. \240I got something online about this city being a jewel of the Balkans and under the radar for tourists. \240Of course we are traveling during the off season and it has been marvelous. \240The highway from Bar to Kotor, mostly along the Adriatic coastline, is spectacular with mountains and the sea. \240Tiny little villages along the way. \240Our first stop was a sign for a monastery which we just decided to stop and investigate.
Sheep on the hillside as we climbed
It was a beautiful winding walk up the hill to the Monastery and oh so beautiful the view at the top.
Beautiful fountain
David actually drank from the spigot. \240The water is very good here everywhere we go.
The chapel
So lovely inside and they had a little honor system gift shop right inside the door. \240It was such a great stop that we just decided on the spur of the moment to do. \240sometimes those are the best❤️
They also had bee hives and for sale inside beautiful beeswax candles. \240It was really lovely to be there.
No more IKEA
We were so amazed when we opened the door to our apartment in Kotor. \240Wow! \240Nice and spacious and…..
View from our balcony
We overlook the Bay of Kotor. \240Know where we are having our breakfast and coffee every morning! \240there was a cruise ship in the bay when we arrived but they have departed. \240Our host had given us some suggestions for restaurants and we tried one. \240We are high on a hill but were able to walk there and even get back in the dark.
When we arrived at The Galion
This place was amazing and since it was only 3:30 in the afternoon, we were the only guests. \240This was like our private dining room over the water, all glass walls. \240It was the best and the food was excellent.
Still at The Galion
It starts getting dark around 4 pm so we were definitely still there when you could see all the marina lights and the houses around the marina.
Today is a very rainy day, but we bundled up and headed out to old town Kotor which is completely behind fortress walls. \240We decided we would investigate the many churches that are inside the fortress. \240The most important is St. Tryphon, which is a large Roman Catholic cathedral. \240Today it was free they told us because it is city day. \240Good for us because upstairs in this cathedral is an amazing museum of religious artifacts which we were able to enjoy as well.
St. Tryphon Cathedral
Very beautiful but not as much as the Orthodox churches. \240The museum had so many silver relics and many icons.
Many of the artifacts in this museum were from Medieval times. \240The church was from 809.
It was raining so hard when we left the church that we decided to go eat at another place our hosts suggested. The Bastian. \240Sadly today because of the weather no fresh seafood but an interesting place. \240Supposedly the oldest restaurant in Kotor. \240And so it seemed only for men! \240However, we happened upon a group of men in costume eating there, I assumed were traditional dancers. \240After speaking with one of the men, who I found had studied English at Oxford! \240He told me they were the Boka Navy. \240He suggested that I Google it. \240So I did and am including the link for your enjoyment.
They have been in existence for over a 1000 years protecting the Bay and City of Kotor.
https://youtu.be/1mH3UlbRgQ8?feature=shared
We were damp and tired and came home to take a nap.
This is what it looked like at 4 pm.
Getting dark around 4 still rainy
afterwards we went back to the old town to walk around and find a place to eat. \240At least it had stopped raining and we found a nice place down another alley.
Finally got some mussels but we did not think they were as good as the ones on our choir trip in July.
Restaurant in the old town Kotor
Home again tonight and ready for rest. \240Looks like rain again tomorrow so more museums and beautiful churches.
Nothing today but monsoon like rain that kept coming and coming so thankfully we had some left over pizza in the fridge and a bottle of wine our host gave us so we did OK.
Around 3:30 the rain let up and we decided to brave it to the old town and we hoped to enjoy the Maritime Museum but it was not to be so. \240Oh well have to go with the flow. \240We found a great place for supper called Taraca that I had read about before coming. \240It was very cool, right by the river that flows into the bay and plays all 80’s music. \240We just split a hamburger (so so) we do know good hamburgers in Texas, and David at last found an IPA beer. \240The beer is not good here and I have become a rose wine drinker.
Taraca restaurant
If it was summer the awning would be open and all windows.
Candle light burger
They served barbecue sauce with the potatoes and on the burger. really!!!
Montenegro Family Dollar!
On our way to the old town we wanted to grab another umbrella just in case and Lo and behold this store came in our sights. \240Everything 50% off woo hoo! \240Lots of Christmas decorations but lots of other stuff too. \240We may make another run through tomorrow. \240Don’t you love the Mrs. Santa dress! And hat !! Ha ha
We were really hoping that today was not going to be rainy and it did not disappoint. \240Although a bit drizzly early morn by 9 am we headed off to walk the Ladder of Kotor, climbing a mountain with over 30 switchbacks. \240It takes you up right near the fortress walls of the old town but you can’t enter the fortress from this hike.
The hike begins…..
Little did I know how many switchbacks we would take but thankfully they made this climb much less steep.
Every wall is a zig zag
The fortress seemed not that far away but it went on and on it seemed forever.
Shedding layers as we climbed
Thankfully we were able to break down our hiking poles and were we glad to have them. \240Especially me!
So near and yet so far!
Getting near the fortress but never will we reach it haha
Cutest donkey
Someone actually lives up here and has this donkey and a herd of goats which were roaming the mountain side we guess. \240The lady tried to give us water and was very friendly as we passed by. We met several older Montenegrin people on the trail and other hikers mostly younger. \240It was a hard hike in my opinion but I am still kicking at 75 and made it.
Quaint village by Bay of Kotor
As tired as we were after our hike we jumped in our car and drove 7.5 miles to this lovely place called Perast.
Perast clock tower
We knew we had to take advantage of the beautiful day. \240We had to miss our nap but the drive was gorgeous and the place we ate was fabulous. \240Restaurant Conte was our choice.
Right by the water
We are becoming rose wine fans here as the local rose is really good.
Ready for our Thanksgiving seafood
David ordered grilled octopus and I had the sea bass with fried squids. \240It was all so good. \240Their main side dish here is Swiss chard mixed with potato. \240So good. \240Another restaurant called it Dalmatian Stew.
Perast Almond Cake
This is something special from this village and we wanted to try it but I hope to try it at home and try for more moistness. \240They call it cake but it is in a pie crust???
Oh well we tried it and probably won’t again until I make it in Houston haha
Good bye Perast
Such a lovely afternoon and we will be back in our apartment before dark at 4:45 pm
Firemen fishing
This was right across the road from their fire department. \240guess this is what they do when not fighting a fire.
Another rainy day in Kotor and this is what they said about November in Montenegro but no crowds and we never have to wait for anything! \240We have enjoyed being some of the few tourists.
North gate of the fortress
We chose a different path into the old town this morning. \240We were dressed for the rain but luckily it pretty much stopped and we just dealt with puddles.
This river flows into the bay
The water is greenish but very clear. \240Rivers whose names change in different countries it seems are all connected throughout the Balkans. These flow into the Bay of Kotor. \240There have been so many earthquakes in this region that sometimes rivers disappear.
Boka Navy performance patterns
After watching a video on the performance of the Boka Navy, giving one of their 4X per year performances in the Maritime Museum in the old town Kotor, the above picture was hanging on the wall and next to it this music.
Traditional music of the Boka Navy performance
I will attempt to play when I return to Houston. They have a band as well, that plays this continually as they perform.
These specific patterns are reminiscent of my elementary music days and some of the folk song games I played with my children. \240It was beautiful to see and although women are allowed in this organization, only men do this dance. \240these old towns date back to Medieval times and this organization is that old. \240the Maritime Museum told the history of sailing in the Bay of Kotor and all the famous ship captains who were there. \240It was housed in an old palace.
Down every little alley
you will find a restaurant or shop of some sort. \240This one was recommended and it was like entering an underground cave. \240Just a few tables. \240The lady who helped us was so nice and spoke quite good English. \240David had pasta with clams and I had fresh bream from the Bay. \240she gave us a treat at the end of our meal.
Homemade cherry brandy
Here we happily sit for lunch
We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering about the old town going in shops and churches.
Altar of Orthodox St. Nichola’s Church
The angel Gabriel and Mary
Dobrota Lace
The lace on this table in the church is hand made in Dobrota a small town near the old town of Kotor. The lace is considered an intangible cultural treasure. It takes 5-6 hours to make 1-6 cm of lace and the eye end of the needle is used rather than the point. \240sure would love to see someone doing this. \240the women made this intricate lace as they waited for their men to return from the sea.
Notice the time! I am blissfully snoozing while David is out climbing the mountain for the 3rd time this week. \240I made it once, oh well. He took these photos up at the top near the fortress walls.
Remains of St. Juraj Church
A lot of people must have been going to church back in those times.
More remains of St. Juraj Church
David came back home pretty wet as it has started to rain again. \240If it lets up in the afternoon we hope to find St. Eustahije church in Dobrota where many examples of this lace and samples of authentic Middle Ages folk art are kept.
Since it is raining so hard we can hardly see across the Bay we decided a nap was good and maybe the rain would let up. \240It did with a 15 degree drop in temp. \240We found a restaurant to try and it was a 30 minute walk. \240No problem right?
Snow comes early
It was such an Artic blast as we were walking and the waves were splashing over the side walk. \240But we made it and the place was small, warm and snug and the food was wonderful. The waiters spoke English and were so nice and friendly. \240this time we tried a Serbian rose. \240It was excellent too. \240David had grilled shrimp and I had a wonderful homemade pasta with asparagus and hazelnut cream sauce. \240Spectacular!
Fireplace not real but nice touch
The owners of the house have retired to live upstairs and the son runs the small restaurant. \240Another reason to be here in the off season. \240No waiting.
Dobrota lace in their curtains
Tomorrow we leave Kotor for Herceg Novi and hope to stop by the church where the lace patterns are displayed.
My fabulous pasta dish
It was so nice to be in this wonderful warm restaurant. \240At least when we walked back home the wind was at our back.
Packing tonight and saying goodbye to the beautiful town of Kotor in the morning❣️ off to Herceg Novi about an hour drive by the sea.
On our way to Herceg Novi and what a beautiful drive it was hugging the shore of Bay of Kotor, passing through many little villages. \240Our first stop was St. Eustace church which was supposed to have the examples of Dobrota lace but alas as we arrived they were having a service so we did not get to go inside so here is the outside.
St. Eustace bell tower
I peeked in the door and there were actually people worshiping so we had to drive on. \240You win a few and lose a few when it comes to special things.
View of the front St. Eustace
Beautiful cross in the courtyard
I thought it was so pretty with the mountains and the sea in the background. \240Back on the road again.
Roman Mosaics Museum
I had read about this before we came and since it was on the way to Herceg Novi in a village called Risan. We stopped and enjoyed.
Discovered Roman Mosaics
I can hardly imagine how long it took someone to make these mosaics. \240Each little square is 1X1 cm. Mind boggling!
Almost completely intact
The Roman mosaics in Risan are the remains of a villa from the 2nd century AD, \240Typical of the Roman architectural creativity on this coast of the Adriatic. \240Risan is the oldest town in Montenegro.
New Apartment Herceg Novi
After getting lost several times trying to find our street and apartment building we finally arrived. \240The owner of the apartment is a darling 80 year old woman and her grown son who lives with her. \240They live on the third floor but have made their attic space into the cutest little apartment with everything you could need for two people. (Including a washing machine) yippee! \240And the directions were in English!!
A smaller terrace but spectacular view
Between the two mountains is the Adriatic Sea. \240A gorgeous day. \240We are hoping for a good day tomorrow to explore the Old Town. \240It is very close by our apartment.
Snow on the mountains
Finally, I am cold!!! \240Everyone who knows me knows I am always hot, never cold but today I am cold. \240The temps have really dropped. \240I know northern relatives and friends but for us Texans this is cold and windy!
Unusual steps to our apartment
First of all there is no elevator in this apartment building so get ready to climb those stairs. \240Seven flights to get to our space and I just had to show the last flight. \240It is like the stairmaster. \240Never seen anything like this before. \240this would not be good to fall down these. Yikes!
Down by the bay
There is a beautiful promenade built right by the water so we walked until we found a restaurant. \240We did our best to eat outside but finally after the sun went down we had to bundle up in hats, coats and scarves to finish our meal
Waiting for our meal
We noticed that right beside the marina
Water Polo Stadium
and this promenade was a water polo facility with stands and lights. \240We also saw outside that teams from countries all over the world have played there. \240It must be really big here.
This day in Herceg Novi started with rain and more rain but off we went in search \240of breakfast in the Old Town. \240We had not been to the local market to get our breakfast foods. \240The entire town is up and down steps after steps. \240I had read that it is the town of a 1000 steps. (This does not include the 7 flights of stairs to our apartment ha ha). Everywhere you go, \240you surely get good exercise for those legs!
Just one of the many steps
We were trying to make sure we weren’t slipping on these wet walks and stairs, but even in the rain it is so beautiful.
Sausage & French fries for breakfast
Because it is the off season and winter, there are so few tourists. \240This morning we had to go to three different restaurants before we could find breakfast. \240The mustard was good with this. \240Don’t even think about ketchup for your FF. \240That doesn’t exist.
More icons
This little Orthodox Church had beautiful icons and some person was putting fresh flowers around the icons. \240I hope to get a picture of the outside before we leave.
I love the face on this icon
This church was quite tiny and is on one of the main plazas in Old Town Herceg Novi.
The angel Gabriel and Mary
This is a recurring theme on these gates. \240The cross is really beautiful.
The next thing we attempted to do was walk to the Savina Winery. \240A really pretty short walk if you were in flat Houston! \240It took about 30 min for us to get there with our umbrellas, but it was not to be. \240The gates were closed, we could get no one on the speaker at the gate. \240So thank goodness for WhatsApp where we could call them. \240We explained that we made reservations long ago for today. \240She had no record. \240We walked home in the rain and decided to take a nap before figuring out our supper plans. \240By the time we arrived back at our apartment the winery had texted that they found our email and could we come tomorrow. \240So it all ended well and you will hear and see more about that tomorrow.
Pizza place very near our apartment
Why is this important you ask? \240Well everyone living in this hilly, no place to park place must pay to park in the few places there are. \240We were lucky that we got a place near our apartment and since we arrived on Sunday, just like in Houston, it is free! \240But the parking patrol is out on the rest of the days from 7 am - 9 pm and you must have that paid slip of paper in you car or beware!!!
That pizza place call Pic Nic is where you secure you parking slips. \240Go figure that one. \240David had to rush down early this morning to make sure we had the slips in our car by 7 am for our stay here. \240We are not moving our car until we leave. \240You might never get a park close to your apartment again.
Our chef at Nautica Restaurant
This darling lady and her husband run a charming restaurant 25 yards from our building so since it is still raining we went there for dinner. \240I had a wonderful penne pasta Gorgonzola and David had a fruti de mare pizza and I had a glass of the Savina Winery white. \240they had no rose🥲
Gorgeous pottery
The lady chef came to talk to us after we finished our meal. \240We asked for dessert and she offered a special dessert that she makes from her grandmother’s recipe. \240It was called Nautica Kolač. \240It reminded us of Tres Leches cake but it was chocolate. \240I love when things like this happen. \240I asked her if she would give me the recipe to take home and she did. \240Written on a post it note in Serbian. \240I will get this translated!
Nautica Kolač
The colors are crunchy sugar crystals. \240The cake is soaked in milk or cream or I am not sure until I get it translated. \240But it was so good with espresso!
Who eats this candy bar?
This is crazy but neither David or I could remember ever eating one. \240But now we seem to be getting one every time we go to the market haha. We are usually dark chocolate snobs. \240I guess you do crazy things on a vacation. \240I doubt we will ever eat one again back in Houston.
David started our day by assuring our parking slip was there. \240We leave Herceg Novi tomorrow heading to Budva. \240this will be the next to last stop for us before heading back to Houston.
and then there was more rain and more rain so we have been limited as to what we can do here. \240We decided to eat leftovers from last night and call for a taxi to make the trip to the Savina Winery for our wine tasting at 1 pm
I attempted to text the taxi company but never received confirmation so we used Google Translate and went downstairs to our sweet 80 year old host Mira to help us. \240Our plea was translated into Serbian and she set up the taxi. \240yea for google translate I say!
Outdoor wine tasting
It was cool but such a beautiful setting. \240It is a smaller winery who only sells to local restaurants or from their shop to visitors.
Appetizers to accompany our wines
The cheese pies are made there at the winery, the prosciutto is local, as are the olives and cheese. \240Our guide told us the crackers shaped like pretzels and the square ones come from a local bakery. \240It was the perfect compliment to their wines.
Our three wines to taste
These are the remains of the three tastings (Rose, Chardonnay, Merlot)only each serving was like getting a glass of wine in a restaurant. \240Waaaay more than a taste so in the end since it wasn’t raining at the time we decided that we would walk back to our apartment. \240It all went well until we got caught in another \240downpour and were quite damp arriving back to our place.
Old wine bottles
She said they do lots of weddings and what a gorgeous setting it would be. \240These old bottles which are decorative now, used to be how they stored their wine in the beginning of the winery 2013.
The French Oak Barrel room
Now they have this room making about 25,000 bottles per year. \240They also make olive oil and grappa which we did not taste! \240That was once a fireplace where the owner would invite guests to enjoy his wine in this room before the barrels took over. \240It was a lovely afternoon but after all that wine and getting wet it was definitely time for a 💤 nap.
Our supper
No more going out tonight and hoping for better weather tomorrow to explore the Old Town before we head to Budva.
You knew we had to get that cheese with David playing the tuba! Ha ha
Yea, it is not raining and is a gorgeous day so after checking out of our apartment with our darling host Mira.
I would love being friends with her
We packed the car and climbed the many stairs one last time to get a look at the Herceg Novi old town without rain.
Church on the plaza
The clock tower
they said you could climb to the top but I tried and only got this high. \240The door was locked to the higher part.
View from half way up clock tower
Before David and I split we passed an icon shop. I had been looking diligently everywhere we went in Montenegro for a nativity scene to add to my collection. Never did we see one and I began asking people but no one was familiar with what I was asking. \240Their Christmas is December 31. Finally I found out there was a nativity icon and I actually found two. They are different scenes from most that we are familiar with. I tried to put the picture here but failed. The icons are at the end of this day 😞 sorry
David and I split up at this point. \240While I was doing clock tower, he went to Kanli Kula of Herceg Novi. To climb The Fortress!
Approaching the Fortress
Large amphitheater inside
View of Herceg Novi from Fortress
We met back on the plaza, walked back to our car and off we went to find the ferry.
Last car to make it on! Whew!
As we raced up to the kiosk to buy our ticket, David jumped out of the car, ran to get the ticket, then back to the car and we barely made it on. \240No waiting!
On the ferry
The trip is only ten minutes so the ferry basically turns around twice and you are there. \240All for €4.5 and we have crossed the Bay headed to Budva where our next apartment is.
Restaurant right on the beach
We decided to go to the old town Budva first as the weather was behaving and the day was glorious.
A new Montenegrin rose little darker
It was really lovely eating there where you hear the waves coming in and the water is so greenish blue.
Smoked salmon bruschetta
Squid and shrimp skewers
And always the Montenegrin Dalmatian Stew. \240Swiss chard with potatoes. \240It is so good. \240Every restaurant has this dish.
Budva Old Town
We took a spin through the old town,climbed the Citadel and headed for our apartment.
View from Citadel Budva
View from our balcony Budva
We are still amazed at the beauty of Montenegro no matter where we go. \240The people are lovely and friendly.
Balcony view Budva
We are only here for two nights and we have decided to take a side trip tomorrow to the old capital of Montenegro, Cetinje. About 40 minute drive. \240More tomorrow from there.
Welcome Montegrin Grappa
Whoa! This stuff is not for the faint of heart. \240So strong. \240We tried about a thimble full just to say we tried it. \240Not for us. \240Like drinking paint thinner. Haha
Here are the Nativity Icons
Very different but beautiful to remember our visit to this lovely country❤️
The good news? It isn’t raining yet, so we jump in the car and head for a day trip to Cetinje, the old royal capital of Montenegro. \240About a 35 minute drive up and over the mountains. There was an interesting cave we hoped to explore about 5km away from Cetinje. \240The Lipa Cave.
It was quite a wonderful experience. \240We have been in Carlsbad Caverns and the Longhorn Caverns but this was just as great. \240Being the off season there were only 4 of us on the tour. \240The first time we got there we found out that this was the last tour, not only of the day, but of the season. \240Because it is the rainy season the cave will soon flood with water and be closed until next season. \240Lucky us that we got in.
One of the larger spaces
It was something to behold and our guide was extremely knowledable about caves and all that is within them.
Interesting formation
Our guide, we found out, had two degrees in Orthodox theology and was just interested in religion but he wasn’t religious. \240He was so interesting.
Cetinje’s pedestrian street
Very nice but not much on it, not many shops and not many pedestrians.
Former Russian Embassy
this building now houses the University School of Fine Arts. \240There are only two Universities in Montenegro and here is only for Fine Arts. \240
Concert Hall
There were definitely concerts scheduled but was all in Serbian and we could read nothing. \240Wish we could have seen inside but it was locked.
It was a fun day and we decided that we should try to make it back to Budva before the rains came with so many curves and switchbacks to contend with.
Vista Restaurant
this beautiful place was a 50 meter walk from our apartment. \240We were eating in he outdoor part of the restaurant but it now was all enclosed with heaters and a roof. \240I can just imagine eating here when the weather is nice.
Salt baked Sea Bass
I had never seen anything prepared like this. \240Those are two big blocks of salt. \240The sea bass filets are rolled tightly and baked on these blocks of salt. Very tasty.
Coconut Cake??
That is what the menu said but then this came out. \240It is a coconut in looks. \240the top is pineapple jam, the inside was between pudding and mousse, coconut flavor and then dipped in chocolate and made to look like a coconut. \240wish I could see them making this. \240I will not try in Houston!
Well it started raining on us about the time we were getting back to Budva, so we parked our little red car, rested for a bit, then finished off our stay in Budva with this very interesting meal.
Tomorrow we head to our last stay in Montenegro, Danilovgrad which is higher in the mountains.
Everything packed and after eating breakfast on the terrace in our coats we were ready for the trek to Danilovgrad and our last leg of this marvelous trip.
And as the day before it is raining again. \240We opted to take a bit longer route as the fog and clouds were so low in the mountains. \240We stayed by the coast as long as we could before heading up north. \240David was a fabulous driver with all these switchbacks and twists and turns.
Danilovgrad was not so impressive as all the other places we have been but we stopped for lunch and gave it a short look before heading up the mountain. Not much to take pictures of so on to our hotel.
The Sokoline Hotel where we are staying is within sight of the Ostrog Monastery. \240It sits on the side of a cliff and the view is for miles. \240Unfortunately for us with this rainy weather not so good.
View from our balcony
You are really away from everything here but we were told as many as 10K tourists flock here for a pilgrimage on the day of St. Basil.
Another view from our balcony
The manager/owner is very nice and speaks excellent English. \240His hotel has only 7 rooms but a beautiful big restaurant upstairs with lots of deck seating. \240this will be a most unique experience for sure. \240Mostly travel today so not so much to share. \240tomorrow we go to the monastery. \240More about that tomorrow.
Looks like the same pictures as yesterday doesn’t it. \240Yep, still raining and not much visibility but today we are off further up the mountain to the upper Ostrog Monastery which is literally carved into a sheer cliff.
View from our balcony today
This is incredible to think they literally built a monastery in an opening in the side of a cliff. \240This mountain is named Ostroška Greda.
Entrance to the Monastery
It was built in 1662 and has many beautiful mosaics throughout.
Rustic iron cross
room where people came to light a candle for a loved one or for a problem. It was a separate room from the main monastery. \240They also had a meditation room. \240Our hotel host told us many pilgrims come for the weekend.
Angels Mosaic
A nice Montenegrin lady offered to take our photo in front of this and then she had us move to a different mosaic.
Saints Mosaic
St. Basil (in the middle) is the patron saint of this monastery
This is how the Monks dress
Long black robes and this type of head covering. \240We saw some of them at our hotel restaurant.
Beautiful example of the Gusle
The price was 500 euros!! Needless to say we did not buy. \240I have watched someone playing it and singing these long historical story songs on YouTube.
Mary and Jesus
I just loved the way Jesus was hugging his sweet mother Mary. \240this was a large icon in their very large gift shop.
David walking near our hotel.
You can see the remains of a structure which we were told the Hotel Sokoline (where we are staying) chose their name as this place was called the Sokoline lookout. \240What they were looking for I don’t know but must be something to do with the monastery.
The entire hotel in this picture
The entire hotel consists of 7 rooms all the the most beautiful views from their terraces. \240Well if the weather cooperates.
The rooms are down and this beautiful spacious restaurant is above. \240Mostly serving traditional Montenegrin dishes.
Lovely restaurant
In good weather it has a spacious outdoor seating area. \240Would have loved to be out there but you can’t have everything and we can’t control the weather. \240the food is quite good
tomorrow we take a side trip to Nikšić about a 20 minute drive higher in the mountains in the morning and in the afternoon when we come back we will visit the lower Ostrog Monastery.
View from our deck
Yes, at long last, that is the sun and blue sky. \24050% chance today so off we go.
Eating outside at the restaurant
It was really too cold but we put on our coats and they brought us blankets to have breakfast.
We had a change of plans for this morning. \240
We found out that the donkey farm was only open on Sundays and we definitely didn’t want to miss this. \240Trying to use Google Maps to find this lovely place turned out to be a nightmare. \240Below is a typical road we were wandering about on for over an hour.
Follow that silver car
Such potholes and mud holes we have never seen. \240David miraculously got us every where we needed to be. \240I lost count of how many times we had to turn around and no road was wide enough for two cars.
Thankfully this wonderful Montenegrin family in the silver car was lost like we were. \240They would call the donkey farm and would say follow us. \240We both turned around so many times. \240The last time we asked him, are we giving up? \240He gave us a resounding NO we are so near. \240It was really worth all the being lost when we arrived.
they were so sweet and gentle. \240You could go right up to them for a pet.
Look at that sweet face
The man who runs this operation has a wonderful set of goals for his farm. \240Protection of donkeys from extinction, education, Hypo therapy where he works with autistic children and children in wheel chairs are the only ones allowed to ride the donkeys, \240He is an animal shelter to take in abused donkeys, Donkey milk is taken and half the amount he gets is donated to ill children. \240And he recycles!
This man is doing his part to make this world better for sure.
They come to you for petting
Momma and baby
Finally figured out how to send the video of that cute little baby donkey.
10 on the cuteness scale
Donkey happy place
the donkeys have this wonderful field to freely enjoy their lives. \240The donkeys we were petting are only brought there on Sunday which is the visiting day.
We had such a good time as did the Montenegrin family who helped us. They had three darling children who loved being there. \240But so did we!
Now we must jump in our little red car and hope that we can find our way back to the hotel. \240this is what we saw on the way
Sheep herding dog
A man and his two dogs were expertly herding this huge group of sheep down the road and turning them down this road. \240Amazing. \240We were really out in the countryside.
So many sheep!
We tried to stop at the lower monastery today but it was raining and a very cold wind blowing so back we came to our hotel. \240When we went to dinner the rain had stopped and this is what we saw from the restaurant.
Beautiful sunset
tomorrow another side trip for hiking
The start of a beautiful day all planned out! Haha we all know how that works out sometimes, right?
Amazing tunnel
Our plan was to drive to Black Lake about an hour north of where we were staying and hike around the lake. These were incredibly narrow roads and David had the most stressful part of this trip being our excellent driver.
Our lovely hosts here at the hotel had packed us lunches for this trip and had them ready for us when we left this morning. \240But breakfast was not being served until after we left. \240I can go a long time without food in the morning but coffee is another matter. \240So we stopped on our drive at a caffe/bar (only drinks, no food EXCEPT… on every table was a bowl of hard boiled eggs)
,5 euros/egg
We bought two and salt shakers aplenty which we used and gobbled them down. \240I don’t think I will ever see that again!
Yep, that is snow
The more north and higher we traveled and we were still an hour away from Black Lake, we begin to wonder if maybe this was not the greatest idea driving in ice and snow. So………
Hiking in the snow
We parked the car, got our hiking poles out and took off down a snowy path.
David downhill
Sadly, after going down hill you must come back up. \240It was so cold at first and coming back up we were shedding layers. \240It was really beautiful with the sunshine, gorgeous white snow and cold air.
St. Basil’s Cathedral Nikšić
We stopped in this town on our way back to the hotel and visited this church. \240It was set way up on a hill and had these beautiful pines in front.
Inside St. Basil’s
Another view of St. Basil’s
We walked around the town square with lots of caffes on pedestrian streets. \240Lots of town dogs in this city. \240They were enjoying the sun as much as the rest of us.
Afterwards, we decided to drive back to the hotel and eat there. \240Our lovely host was in the restaurant and began to tell us the story of his family and the hotel and restaurant. \240His parents bought the land 20 years ago. \240It truly is sitting on a sheer cliff. \240It has been a labor or love for his family. \240We have enjoyed meeting both his Mom and Dad who you would think were just two old people (that is old like me) helping out around here. \240It is really a remarkable place and you feel like you are visiting someone’s home who has seven bedrooms!
Tomorrow we travel back to Podgorica and get ready to fly back to Houston on Wednesday. \240We are both missing home! \240We will try for one more adventure near Podgorica. \240If it happens great, but if not what a great bunch of memories we have made and met some of the nicest people you could imagine.
Well here we are on the last day of our Montenegrin journey. \240It will be truly unforgettable to us. \240The places we’ve seen and the people we’ve met ,as our hosts, will always be special memories for us.
Rather than the last supper this is the last breakfast at the lovely Hotel Sokoline.
Fresh raspberry juice
Always homemade bread, two different kinds, and homemade raspberry jam. \240Raspberries must be more plenteous and much cheaper than in the US.
David liked the traditional breakfast
I preferred eggs and bacon
The bacon was definitely slices of ham. \240So good.
And the coffee!!!
Beautiful latte but I had already had a double espresso with hot milk. \240However many different coffees you wanted, just ask. \240
The lovely Anka co-owner of Sokoline
She was so delightful and worked just as hard as any of their employees. \240She and her husband both.
Their handsome son Danilo who could speak perfect English. \240He said he learned English spending the summer with cousins in London as a young boy.
A beautiful handmade wine bottle holder.
We noticed these on the restaurant tables and admired them. \240So he said, I will give you one and this is ours to bring back to Houston.
Holding our empty bottle!
This vineyard is in Podgorica and we thought we might try to go but we are pretty pooped so we just had one adventure here and it was so worth the time. \240We will look for Plantaze at Specs and see if they import. \240It is a huge complex with hundreds of acres of vines.
David & Ann at Niagara Falls
Yes, that is correct and you could literally walk right out to the falls. \240This is something I had read about before coming and so glad we took the time to find it.
The restaurant Niagara
It was right down by the river and was absolutely gorgeous.
Indoor porch of the restaurant
they had outside eating as well but we
Chose in by the fire
We were still not hungry from our huge breakfast but did have a coffee and enjoyed the ambience of this special place.
Fresh fish pond
If you chose fish for your meal not to worry about freshness!
Complete with waterfall
The waiter could turn it on and off with a switch. \240Pretty cool I thought and you can see the fish swimming down below. \240We thought about going back later for dinner but our last hotel has a restaurant and we are opting for that.
Hotel Aria
The best part, 5 minute drive to the airport! \240Woo Hoo! \240Homeward bound tomorrow morning. \240Trip of a lifetime almost over but glad to be coming home.