1
Barcelona

We arrived at 12 noon after a not too comfy ride on Vueling. We had an 11 pm flight; later than we have ever flown internationally. The seats had very limited leg room and my plan to drink 2 glasses of wine and benadryl didnt work. I got up no less than 5 times, stretching and walking. Poor Rich and the man behind me.

Once we got to Barcelona airport ( which is all glass and gorgeous) we found our way to the Barcelona Airport Hotel shuttle. We missed round 1 so waited an hour, which made us a bit rushed. We tossed the bags in the room which was ready early (yay) and then took a taxi to meet Laura, our withlocals tour guide, downtown Barcelona on the main tourist road. We hadn’t eaten ( one Vueling tip is now you need to preorder food on the plane through a service called Level) so grabbed a snickers and nuts at a convenient store.

Laura took us around the Old City, showing us a building designed by Gaudi, a huge and beautiful street market where we sampled manchengo and salami, and explored numerous piazzas. We saw street performers and watched people sip coffee and drink wine. Laura treated us to churros con chocolat- a very popular dessert here. We would like to come back and explore the streets and alleys that are filled with stone and brick. We walked by Hotel Neri, a charming hotel tucked in the old city where we would like to stay next time we are in Barcelona.

We were tired and had to get up early the next morning to catch a 7 am flight to Rome, so we grabbed a quick drink and pincha at a little restaurant. Pincha is the Spanish version of dim sum, where I walked around the bar and chose little nibbles. At the end they counted my toothpicks to cash me out. Rich, not as open to eating food which looked great but he wasn’t sure what it was, ordered tapas ( ham and cheese croquttes) off the menu. It was fun, however we think we didn’t sample the best of what Barcelona has to offer.

We taxied back to the hotel and got two glasses of local wine at the bar. I asked the bartender for 2 glasses of something local. 5 euro for 2! And no tipping in Barcelona; that is reserved for excellent service or fine dining.

A fruit display at the market.

These cones were everywhere!

Churros con chocolate

Beautiful church ( one of many)

Touring the old section of Barcelona

There is a building built around these original Roman columns.

Sleepy dinner after the overnight flight.

Pincha

The Giants- each city or town has a pair of Giants that they take out to parades and festivals.

A Gaudi house. At the top are unusual ceramic chimneys- all different and colorful.

Palermo, Italy

It has been a wonderful, long day. We got up at 4:20 and missed the hotel shuttle. We ended up taking a taxi to the airport; the Barcelona airport was crowded and confusing. Next time, we need to remember to get our boarding pass early if possible, \240and in Barcelona be more assertive than in the US.

Our flight to Rome was easy and we met Tina and Steve in Rome. We flew to Palermo together, arriving at 2:30.

Palermo is a charming, old city. Arriving on Sunday, not too much was open. We had lupper at a restaurant near our hotel- The Hotel Porta Felice. The hotel has large, comfortable rooms and a beautiful rooftop terrace wher we spent the evening.

An alley near The Hotel Porta Felice

Tina and Steve on the balcony

Lemon tree at the rooftop bar

View from the hotel

Lupper

Grilled calamari

In a public area

2
Hotel Porta Felice

We started the day with a lovely breakfast on the rooftop complete with 2 cappuccino. Caffeinated, we set out to find a few spots I had researched in the guide book.

First stop was to a little alley with shops. Unfortunately,there was not much open. Tina found an adorable handmade purse at one of the few open shops. We walked around St. Anthony piazza where there was a beautiful focacceria and restaurant. We walked a bit further to Caffe Stagnitta, the oldest coffee roaster in Sicily. Steve tried their espresso plain, Tina and I opted for coffee specials, and Rich had a gelato frappe. We tried to go to a “ secret” bakery with treats made from recipes passed down from nuns, but the area was closed for an event.

Cappuccino Freddo and Cocktail Caffe

After a bit of a frustrating experience with the rental car, we were off to Cefalu. *Our hotel was great about helping us pay the car tax for driving within city limits. When we were in Italy 5 years ago we got a ticket from driving inside Pisa without paying the tax. We did not want to repeat the mistake.

We stopped mid way between Palermo and Cefalu and had a delicious lunch at a marina. The staff were friendly, food yummy, view beautiful!

14 Euro for both our lunches!

Delicious salmon salad

We got to our air bnb around 2:30 pm. It is a rustic, cute 2 bedroom dwelling overlooking the sea.

Our view

Pics of the airbnb

We spent the afternoon shopping and doing laundry.We were taking pics vs helping- yup!

Steve using the outdoor washing machine!

We headed into the town of Cefalu for dinner at Bastione & Constanza. It was at the end of a series of winding alleyways near the water. The wine and food was excellent!

Pistachio pizza

Overall it was a great day of travel!

3
Villa Magarà

We are spending day two in Cefalu. We spent time enjoying our view of the Tyrrhenian Sea, walking around the cobblestone, windy streets of Cefalu, and sampling delicious food and wine.

Map of Cefalu

Il Duomo

Gelato in brioche- it’s a Sicily thing!

The underground washroom where women used to do their laundry

View of Cefalu from our lupper spot on the water

And another- it is so pretty here.

Heading to bed early as tomorrow we drive to Mt Etna!

4
Mt Etna

Today we drove 3 hours along the coast to Mt. Etna. Most of the roads were either tunnels or bridges, which was fairly stressful. We stopped at an autogas for cappucino and snacks, and arrived a bit before 1 at \240the meeting point for our lunch and tour.

We met at Montata Grande, a winery and outdoor shop offering tastings of products, spirits and wine. They had some delicious nut creams that would make excellent cookie fillings. Unfortunaty they don’t ship to the US.

We have been trying as many Sicilian specialties as we can find. At lunch we had fried zucchini blossoms and fried chickpea squares, both excellent, along with a bottle of wine from Mt Etna.

Tasting local spirits

At 3 pm our guide arrived and we set out in a jeep to explore Mt. Etna. The first stop involved a brief but steep hike to get a view of the area and a better understanding of what happens when the volcano erupts. Mt. Etna is an active volcano so it can and does erupt. Lava travels slowly, so few people have been harmed by the eruptions. The area was covered with black sand, which “rains” from the sky at different intervals; last year it fell approx 50 times while this year it hasn’t happened yet.

Next we went into a lava tube. It was an incredible experience to walk through a tunnel made of lava within the volcano.

Our last stop was at the top, where it felt like we were walking on the moon. Our guide said Italian scientists test out technology used on the moon in this location. The specific area has been rebuilt 5 times since 1950 due to lava flows.

And then there was the light. It was truly amazing being there at sunset. It was chilly and so worth it!

It was a truly beautiful experience.

We then drove to Taormina and our day continued on being amazing. Tina had found an air bnb, Casa Priscilla. Once you get into it ( there are lots of steps) you arrive at 3 floors of modern luxury, complete with a rooftop jacuzzi. More on that tomorrow.

We wandered through alleys down to the water and had dinner at Il Delfino. The owner and waitress were so so lovely and graciously served us dinner although we were the only people around as it was after 9 pm.

Macaroni with pistachios

Rich and I then walked up the street and enjoyed a gelato.

We had a few travel bumps to sort out next ( Tina and Steve needed to rebook a flight from Catania to Rome and we rearranged our travel to Salerno).

Overall, an amazing day!

5
Taormina

We had a lovely day in \240Taormina. We woke up at our airbnb to a gorgeous view of the Ionian Sea.

View from our balcony.

We walked many steps across the rocks to Isola Bella, a tiny island/nature preserve right across the water.

View from Isola Bella.

We then took the cable car up into Taormina, a labrynth of streets filled with shops, restaurants, gelaterias, and piazzas.

We had a delicious lunch at one of many restaurants. Seafood salad for me!

The pizza-maker who was pleased for me to take his photo!

We spent the afternoon enjoying \240the beautiful airbnb. I ducked out for an afternoon glass of Nero D’Avola Etna which is my new favorite.

We all then took the funicular back up to our dinner spot. It was so beautiful! We had drinks and aperivo together at Cafe Wunderbar.

Gorgeous view overlooking the sea.

We went upstairs for our dinner at Cinque Archi, which was thoroughly amazing.

Amuse bouche of cheese and peas. Don’t eat the marigold!

Tuna tartare with pistachios

Sea bass with orange and potatoes

Cheese- truly amazing- green basil cheese, homemade ricotta, etc.

Post dinner pic

My phone is remarking that I am walking a lot more than usual! I wonder if apple thinks it is stolen!

6
Salerno

Due to some travel changes, we all set off together at 8:30. \240Our train was 60 min late, but arrived! There is an air traffic controller strike and trains are busy today.

A very interesting part of our travel is that our train went onto the ferry. Once we got to the mainland, the additional carraiges were attached to the train. It was an unusual experience; this is the last train/ferry service in \240Europe.

The train mostly hugged the coast, so we were able to enjoy the ocean as we traveled. There is limited information on the train, and very few staff to ask questions so next time I would be sure to plan better.

We arrived in Salerno around 5 pm and took a taxi to the hotel. There is no Uber it seems; all taxis at taxi stands. We arrived at Villa Poseidon Boutique Hotel. It is a bit worn, but charming with a helpful front desk staff. There is a sauna in the room and an ocean view.

The garden path here was beautiful; you can walk downhill through the gardens to the public escalator into the old town. There are all kinds of fruit trees and flowers on the way. It is a bit seedy at the bottom, but walk a few blocks and it perks up.

We had apertivo at a local neighborhood bar, Bar G. Verdi, which was fun.

We then went shopping and to dinner in Salerno; not much English here and lots of food options. One thing missing though- the gelateria at every corner! We had dinner in a cute alley at Osteria De Sapori.

Spaghetti and Prawns

Swordfish and pacchietti

Complimentary limoncello

We were grateful for the escalator up!

The view from our hotel!

7
Amalfi

For our last day we decided to take the ferry to Amalfi. It is as beautiful as the pictures!

Ferry leaving from Salerno

Ferry hair

Amalfi

We started with gelato in the steps of the duomo.

We walked up the cliff past where most tourists stopped. We found a delighful 3d miniature version of Amalfi and had a remote lunch where we were 1 of 2 couples.

The miniature Amalfi

Grilled veggies and burrata

Sea bass and potatoes

We also shared a fancy reserve beer in tiny beer mugs.

We did some shopping and walked around thinking about creating a trip for travelers that would include walking along the Amalfi coast in the cooler spring and fall from bed and breakfast to bed and breakfast with bags shuttled.

We got back to our hotel and set out for our last supper. We found a cute restaurant with outdoor red and white checked tablecloths, live music, and food more similar to what I grew up with.

There is a spaghetti pie at the end that resembles pizzachena.

10 euro bottle of red

Meatballs

Sausage and potatoes that were exceptional

Biscotti and sweet wine

Caprese cake

3 courses with wine- 54 euros

We loved Salerno. Walking back to the villa we passed loud groups of teens playing ball, giggling teen girls, and groups of men and women sitting with wine and coffee. While Salerno has great transportation and other tourist services, it is definitely not “ touristy”. We found all our gifts there.

Travel day from Salerno-Rome

We are taking the high speed train, riding business class. Wide leather seats, coffee, leg room- it is comfy, affordable and efficient! This is in contrast to the first class experience Friday with Tina and Steve, where there was no business class. Spend the little extra for business class!

Then we fly Vueling:

Rome- Barcelona

Barcelona- Boston

One last cheese plate and wine and we are off!

Ciao Italia!