Drinking with Dragons begins:
Airport for flight to Venice, the one in Italy. We decided to come to O’Hare early because the nice lady at American Express said I could go into the Admiral’s Club and Amex would pay. Spoiler, on my Amex it only pays $100 and 4 people at the Admiral’s club is $240. So, having beer and wine at Wolfgang Pucks by the gate—for 2+ hours. However, we are having the Spicy Italian Pizza before getting on the plane. Nine hours and five minutes on the plane. Remember its just like a marathon, the 9 hours are easy it’s those last five minutes, when you hit the wall, that are killer.
Venice Day 1:
Arrived in Venice and out to water taxi by noon. Made it to our lovely apartment near Piazza San Marco. Although the apartment is 5 minutes from the water taxi drop off, and even with good directions, it took 30 minutes to find the apartment. The apartment entrance is down a dead end alley between two restaurants and the addresses or street names are not really helpful. Once we discovered the system for the addresses we were outside the apartment.
Now, time to explore Venice, get lost, find a restaurant recommended by our landlord, get lost, try to stay awake, get lost, have a good meal including pizza and calazone, find our way back to the apartment (getting lost multiple times including at least three dead ends), and having gelato.
First stop is alcohol (body clock is unsure is it after noon? or 5pm? or who cares lets have a drink!)
Photo credit Lisa Prutsman
Venice Day 2:
This Sunday in Venice starts with a regatta. A tradition started to limit the motorboats and taxis from the Canal Grande. We saw all manner of boats being paddled from the simplest canoe, to skulls of one to eight, Viking boats, kayaks, along with Superman and a British tea party (see below). The weather was ideal so, following a delicious breakfast below our apartment, we headed to more walking adventures. We spent less time getting lost, but as we learned Venice is called the labyrinth and there are inevitable wrong turns accompanied by beautiful sites and redirections. We took a walking tour to learn more, but primarily enjoyed the day with great friends, wonderful weather, in this picturesque city.
Breakfast planning
The Venetian Superman!
A nice tea to celebrate Harry and Meghan’s nuptials.
A nice Italian guy we met—he bought the author a birra.
Photo credit Lisa Prutsman.
We saw some mimes arrested! They were of course placed in an invisible box.
More art from Lisa Prutsman.
Venice to Ljubljana:
Today we said, “Addio!” to Venice. Water taxi to the train station to meet our Go Opti driver. A short ride across the way to Slovenia and Ljubljana. We arrived in our apartment and had a beautiful day visiting a church, a castle, and learning about local beers. The apartment has a great view, and is very near the Dragon Bridge! So we begin our Slovenian adventure toasting (and drinking with) dragons.
Best taxi ride ever.
Addio Venice, Alo Ljubljana!
View from apartment.
Occupants of the apartment.
You’ll have to trust me there is a dragon on this mug—drinking with dragon?!
There be Dragons!
Ljubljana Castle
Lake Bled:
The theme of Slovenia day 2 was water. Lake Bled and the kind that God provides. We took a bus to Lake Bled to see the beautiful lake and region. Unfortunately, it was wet and rainy all of our time in Lake Bled but it did not dampen our spirits. We still made the climb to the Blejski Grad (Bled Castle) after a marvelous breakfast lakeside. We returned to our breakfast restaurant to sample the famous Bled Cream Cake from the Sava Hotel. Mid-afternoon we returned to Ljubljana for a night on the town.
Bled Island—the only island in Slovenia.
View from Bled Castle
Delicious Lake Bled Cream cake.
Kathy’s Birthday and travel:
Today was the big travel day to move from Slovenia and Ljubljana to Croatia and Dubrovnik. First by van across the border and on to Zagreb the Capitol of Croatia. All we saw was the airport and it was on to Dubrovnik. We arrived in Dubrovnik to our best apartment thus far. We are situated on the hill above the Old City. We have a wonderful view of the walled city of Dubrovnik and the surrounding sea. The apartment has a terrace the wonderful view and is so spacious it has a table with chairs for cribbage and sofa set for relaxing.
After settling in we headed to the beach down the stairs and moseyed into the Old Town. Kathy’s birthday dinner needed to include oysters—fortunately Dubrovnik is famous for oysters. So, we found a fabulous restaurant to enjoy our oysters and the ambience of the town.
Apartment view from the terrace.
The Old City from the apartment’s bedroom balcony.
The terrace swing for little children—and John.
The birthday girl!
The Wall, The Island, Cats, Peacocks, and Bunnies—Oh My:
We started our first full day in Dubrovnik as we should with the walk on the wall to take in the city below and the sites. We were told to go early and although we had planned to rise and shine, late night cribbage held us up. The wall was all that it had been hyped to be, but likely a little more crowded by 9 am. We finished the wall in time to have lunch at a pizzeria recommended by our host. Best pizza of the trip!
At lunch we decided to visit Lokrum, the island we see from the terrace. A short boat ride lands you on the island so we spent a leisurely afternoon exploring the island which is populated by peacocks, rabbits, and a smattering of tourists without the crowds of the Old City. We spent time at the “Dead Sea” a lagoon connected to the sea by an underground channel. We relaxed in the sun, swam, and at least one of us cavorted with bunnies and peacocks.
The island trip would not be complete without a visit to the Iron Throne. After some searching and directions from the nice man with the delicious gin cocktails, we found the throne room. The return trip left us in the Old City Marina and we plotted the next days excursion, the remainder of our trip in Croatia, and finding a dinner spot without the assistance of our host, trip advisor, the internet, any other recommendations. Working the streets of Dubrovnik with only one goal in mind—seafood. This portion of the trip began Lisa’s chronical of the “Cats of Croatia,” soon to be a best selling coffee table book (look for it on Amazon). I would include some of the cat pictures but cannot because, Copyright.
We came upon a spectactular restaurant called Gatsby Wine and Food Bar. If you are ever in the Old City of Dubrovnik, I would give it my highest recommendation. Run by a very friendly couple we ate sea bass, tuna, salmon, and of course some oysters. The meal, the ambience, the food, the drink, and the company were all spectacular. If you plan on going simply enter the Old City turn left, then right, two more rights and a left, down the narrow street and you’ll see it on the left. There’s a cat in the window opposite the restaurant; you can’t miss it! Of course if you come from the opposite gate, simply reverse the directions.
Views from the wall.
What the wall sees when it looks at our terrace.
What our terrace sees when it looks at the wall.
The boat had two beauties.......
and these two guys.
Kathy found her Zen on the island.........
And built a cairn by the sea.
A “Royal,” two Queens, and a “Duke.”
What the boat sees when it looks at our terrace.
What the terrace sees when it looks at our boat.
What Lisa sees when see finds some bunnies on the island!
What the bunnies see.
Three Island Adventure:
Our last full day in Dubrovnik was spent on an excursion. We were late to schedule the trip, despite making the decision the day before. We had to call and make the reservation in broken Croatian and English. We discovered the key to our apartments location was the Biker Bar three doors up the hill. Our ride met us at the Biker Bar but was surprised to see the 4 of us rather than the 2 he expected. Unfortunately for the other 6 people in the van, we made 10 fit and drove to the marina to meet the boat.
Second surprise, two boats to the islands—the big boat (not for you!) and the small boat. However, the small boat was more fun. We met two Americans and one was lovely (Nikki). We met two couples from Australia one couple was on a 2 year adventure through Europe in a mobile home! Another couple from the UK and 4 Dutch guys on their annual holiday. The small boat was to make a stop at the Blue Cave for snorkeling (not necessary) and a swim inside the cave (necessary and beautiful).
Then it was on to island number one, Lopud, for several hours at a wonderful sandy beach called, Sunj. We spent several hours in the sun and sea, saw a little of the island with more olive trees than people (a Guinness record, why?). Back on the boat for a late lunch on Sipan at the Captain’s house. Naturally, the folks on the small boat had our own table (the kids table?). A delicious meal with home made bread, olive oil, fresh grilled fish, wine, and of course a serenade by the Captain with his accordion. The last stop was Kolocep, more beach time and a late afternoon siesta fueled by lunch, wine, beer, and a little too much sun. Then back to Dubrovnik for a return to the our favorite pizza with some new friends.
Leaving Dubrovnik, to Split by car, Hvar by catamaran, and the Podstine Hotel by foot:
We arranged a ride to Split with pick up naturally at the Biker Bar. On the way to Split we travelled through the Bay of Mali Stone, the best oysters in the world! Kathy’s personal heaven, the driver, “We could stop for five minutes and have some fresh oysters?” Kathy, “OMG YES!!!” So we had the freshest oysters ever, straight from Mali Stone to our stomachs—delicious.
The Bay of Mali Stone.
The freshest “world’s best” oysters!
Birthday week heaven!
Then on toward Split with a brief (20 Kilometers) in Bosnia. In Split before 1 pm but the ferry at 2pm was sold out. We were warned but ignored the schedule the ferry early advice. The faster catamaran to Hvar left at 4:30, so we explored the Old City in Split.
Walled City of Split.
The Cathedral........
And Sphinx, sans nose and with human hands.
We arrived in Hvar and “decided” to walk to our hotel, over a mile of sweaty, luggage dragging on cobblestones, up stairs and hills, and after a few misadventures found the lobby. The hotel came with 2 surprises: “You should have called we have free transportation from the port.” They copied our passports, gave us some water and a tour of the hotel, and then asked to see our confirmation number. “You are scheduled to check in tomorrow!” But much to our relief rather than being sent to the manger, we were given an upgrade to seaside rooms with a view and settled into a great hotel—trip advisor highest rating!
We left the hotel late for dinner and a night on the town in Hvar. Saturday night and we were ready for the Hvar party scene. Remarkably, we stayed out late, but the Hula Hula Bar was closed, so we settled for dinner and drinks on the town. The drinks included Long Island Ice Tea and the soon to be famous Wiki Waki Woo (Vodka, Gin, Tequila, Triple sec, Stroh rum, and assorted juices).
Ready for a night on the town.
Goodbye Hvar and The Podstine, Hello Trogir:
We spent a relaxing half day in Hvar. Primarily enjoying our hotel’s “beach.” The hotel has a series of terraced chaise lounges facing the sea. The refreshing dips in the sea and reading and sunning until it was time to return to Split.
We made our way back to port, this time with the hotel transport, and boarded the fast ferry back to Split. This time, with some advanced planning, we had secured a ride to our next destination—Trogir an island about an hour (by boat) from Split. Another excellent apartment was waiting with enough time to see the walled city, the ...., and find a nice place for dinner.
Trogir and Karmerlengo Castle.
Excursion to Krka and Sibenik:
The Rhoades’ headed out for an excursion to a national park to see the waterfalls. The Prutsman’s stayed closer toTrogir and found their way to the beach. The excursion started on the bus, explored the Krka National Park, and concluded at the Catherdral of Sibernik. The beach trip was a simple boat ride and a day of leisure. All best depicted in pictures:
Krka National Park
The Cathedral at Sibenik (unique because no connectors were used in construction).....
And the wall of faces (the original facebook?).
Another day in Croatia and “ho-hum” another island:
Another excursion to another island with an incredible beach. The island is Brac and our ferry ride took us from Split to Supenac a city on the island. We took an Uber from Trogir as a test for the airport transport needed the next day. Arrival in Supenac and a taxi to Bol, arguably one of the prettiest beaches in the world. No argument from us. Another day of sunning and swimming with a short break for lunch overlooking the beach. It was hard, stressful, and dangerous work but we up for the challenge. Our cab driver met us for our return to Split and the last boat to Trogir. A perfect last day in Croatia!
The beach at Bol.
More from Bol.
The port at Supenac.
And Now This(credits to John Oliver)—On to Budapest:
The Uber challenge was successful, so it was on to the Split airport (which is closer to Trogir). We made a decision a week before to spend more time in Budapest. Our original plan was to fly to Zagreb, spend the night, and on to Budapest the next day. We found a cheaper flight and left Split for Copenhagen and then changing planes for Budapest. We chose this route because it was the route Marco Polo (a Croatian) used to get to the Orient (not really, that would be stupid). It was actually cheaper, faster, and took less time arrival in Budapest by 4:00pm. We now had two full days in Budapest.
The final look at Trogir, the tiny island. Photo credit Lisa Prutsman.
Dinner in Budapest for traditional Hungarian food and the “Hot Jazz Band.”
Budapest Day 1:
We decided to see Budapest by double decker bus, with hop-on-hop-off benefits. As the “Big Bus” circled the city we learned its history, we also formulated a plan. Although the city is huge, the historical sites are fairly easy to see with transportation. We made our way from Buda to Pest and back again. We rode across the bridges, saw the castles, the churches, including the Basilica and Synagogue. We explored the Central Market Hall and had lunch—more Hungarian food. We also found the Hungarian Natural Museum and our apartment across the street. Once again our AirBnb worked out wonderfully with another well located, beautiful apartment.
St. Stephen’s Basilica.
Hungarian Opera House.
The Chain Bridge.
Geller Hill Cave.
Parliament
Dohaney Street Synagogue
There be more Dragons! Note the statue between the dragons is holding a beer aloft in the Hungarian salute of Egeszsegedre (cheers)!
Our bus ticket included a river cruise and we decided to \240the night cruise and see the city lights. We walked along the river and crossed the Chain Bridge with lions guarding both ends. The bridge leads to a funicular to Buda Castle. We had time for drinks and watching the sun set. Then back to the river for the cruise.
Views from Buda Castle.
Sunset over the Buda Castle and Chain Bridge.
Buda Castle and Parliament from the river.
After returning from the river cruise we found a restaurant to serve us heavy Hungarian food. We decided we probably don’t need more Hungarian food. In order to walk off our dinner and to make our children proud we headed to the bars. We found the bar district and after a drink in the party bars found our way to the famous ruin bars. A very cool bar with multiple rooms, eclectic decor, and hip people (plus us). We’d love to say we shut the place down, but we are proud of staying out past 1am. Pictures have been deleted.
Budapest Day 2:
Our last full day in Budapest is also the last full day of our trip :(. We believed a day at the baths in Budapest would be a great start to the day after a late night and before a long flight. Szechenyi Thermal Baths were the perfect ticket after breakfast and a short bus ride we spent several hours enjoying saunas, hot baths, cold baths, and a large outdoor pool. From the baths we took in the Terror Museum a history of torture and inprisonment in Hungary’s history under the Nazi’s rule followed by Soviet control.
The baths.
The pools.
The bathers.
The TERROR reflection.
The Terror Museum.
Our final night included a return to the area near the Ruin bars called Godzdu courtyard. Lots of restaurants and people watching—good food, great last night, and wonderful friends sorry it couldn’t go on forever.
Gozsdu courtyard.
The Hungarian National Museum from the apartment’s front door. Goodbye Budapest.
So, I had saved the story of our trip and ended the journal before our departure on June 2. All was left was flying home—Budapest to Philadelphia then Philadelphia to Chicago. John and Lisa return to KC early Sunday from Chicago. Every aspect of the trip was without a hitch, lots of travel plans made well in advance and on the fly, all without trouble. Then came the trip back home.
We left the gate in Budapest, but had to return because one of the passengers did not clear security appropriately. He had to leave the plane, clear the security questions, and return to the plane. So we sat for over an hour and were finally on our way. We arrived in Philadelphia only an hour behind schedule and had to wait for our gate but off the plane in plenty of time for a 3 hour layover. We cleared customs, ate dinner, and waited for our flight to Chicago.
Again we loaded the plane late due to thunderstorms, but we were on the plane ready to go and pushed away from the gate. This time we had to wait for takeoff due to the back-up from the storm. Then the worst thing happened, the flight crew “timed out” due to the wait times and for the second time we returned to the gate to get off the plane and find a new crew. Alas, no new crew was coming. The flight was cancelled, cots were delivered, and their were no nearby hotels. Fortunately, Lisa’s sister lives near the airport, and after 24 hours we found a bed. Finally, Sunday, June 3 we found our way home.