Picked up at 0515 for our 0700 UA flight to ORD. \240

Arrived ORD at \2401300. \240I’m still dealing with a URI so the descent and landing at ORD wasn’t fun. \240Ears blocked, marked diminished hearing on R, some pain. \240Hung out in the BA lounge before boarding out Air Belgium (wet leased by BA) for the overnight flight to LHR.

Arrived LHR at 0630 after an overnight flight from ORD. \240Didn’t sleep more than 1 hour. \240Ears still a problem, despite pseudoephedrine and decongestant nasal spray. \240By the time we navigated LHR’s very strict security we had only about 1 hour to relax in the BA lounge before boarding our flight to CAI on a BA 321 Neo.

41/2 hours later we overflew Cairo and were struck by how large its become and how monochromatically brown it is. \240A thin sliver of blue where it’s traversed by the Nile and scarcely any green. \240We were met at the airport by an ages of A&K who whisked us through emigration and customs without any hassle \240 Then a 45’ride through Cairo. \240Scarcely any traffic even traffic even though it was rush hour.

By 6:00 we were at the Marriott Mena House Hotel at the base of the pyramids. We were met by Evie who arrived here at 0300 today. After unpacking and a quick shower we had a nice dinner Al fresco at the hotel.

This morning, after breakfast, we met our guide, Hala. \240She’s been guiding for 40 years. \240We also met our group who seem very nice. 2 couples from Calgary, 2 single women from Calabasas and Miami traveling together, a couple from Grand Rapids MI, a family of 3 from Beverly Hills, and a couple from Taiwan and their friend from Bangkok. \240

After breakfast we boarded a bus to head to the Egyptian Museum in downtown Cairo. \240The museum was mobbed with visitors packed shoulder to shoulder. \240Taking phots was difficult due the crowds. During the tour, along with another couple, we got separated from the group. \240We wandered the museum for about 20 minutes before finding them. \240The exhibits, ranging in age up to 5000 years old, were a good representation of ancient Egypt. \240The highlight was the display of artifacts from King Tutenham’s tomb including the solid gold casket, burial mask, and other treasures.

Lunch was at an Egyptian restaurant located on a boat moored to an island in the Nile River.

We were back at the hotel by 3:00 for a nice nap. We concluded the day with cocktails in the hotel lobby bar followed by dinner in the main restaurant. \240

We had a full day exploring ancient Egypt today. \240After breakfast we made the 5-minute drive to the Giza Plateau, site of the 3 great pyramids. \240Although we had been here in 1978 and the pyramids haven’t changed in 5000 years, the tourist experience certainly has. We are now able to enter the Pyramid of Cheops. \240The tunnel leading to the burial vault has been opened. \240The tunnel starts out level and with enough height to walk upright. \240However the tunnel soon turns sharply upwards and narrows so that upward and downward visitors have to squeeze past each other and you have to crouch down to avoid bumping your head on the top of the tunnel. \240Near the top the tunnel levels off but also becomes shorter so that I had to crawl about 50’ to reach the large burial vault. \240It was also very hot; I estimate 110-120 degrees. \240Not surprisingly, Donna and several other members of our group opted out. \240

After emerging from the tunnel we were back on the bus to go to 9 Pyramids restaurant for an Egyptian lunch. \240The site had an excellent view of the plateau and the pyramids. \240We then bussed to the Giza valley to see the Sphinx. \240On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a shop selling jewelry and handcrafts. Evie bought earrings. \240We looked at a chess set but bought nothing.

Back at the hotel for a nap. \240We awoke to the disturbing news that Hamas launched a major attack against Israel this morning. \240They have launched over 2000 missies and invaded southern Israel killing and taking civilian hostages. \240So far Egypt doesn’t seem to be involved so we aren’t changing any plans but it’s concerning that we are in a neighboring Arab nation. \240

We were up at 0415 and left Giza for the airport at 0520. \240The airport is modern and spacious. \240Our Egyptair flight to Luxor left on time at 0740. \240About 15’ into the flight there was shouting fir a doctor. \240I responded along with several others. \240Since the passenger in distress was Marilyn from our group I took charge. \240Her husband, Rick, said she became unresponsive and her eyes riled up. \240By the time I got there she was responsive and oriented but diaphoretic with HR about 100. \240Further history revealed she had been having diarrhea and other nonspecific GI sx for a few days. \240She had no tonic-clonic activity nor incontinence and wasn’t post-ictal. \240She also didn’t have palpitations nor any significant CV history other than HTN for which she was on a diuretic and ACEI. \240It was apparent that she likely had vasovagal syncope. \240She was OK for the rest of the flight but went to our cruise ship after landing instead of on tour with the rest of us. \240On the ship she saw the ship physician who prescribed an antidiarrheal I don’t recognize and oral electrolyte replacement. \240By lunchtime she was feeling and looking good.

The rest of our group went to the Temple of Luxor. \240It was constructed in stages ca 1400 \240BCE by pharaohs \240Amenhotep III, Tutenkhamen, and Ramses II. \240It’s notable for large statues of the Pharos and massive columns supporting a roof. \240 The temple is connected to the Temple of Karnak by a long roadway lined on both sides by sphinxes. \240

We began the day still in Luxor. \240My diarrhea improved overnight but then recurred this afternoon. \240In the morning we toured Karnak Temple, a huge complex which was built over about 1400 years. After returning to the boat we sailed for Esna, traversing a lock shortly before arriving. \240 As I was still dealing with my traveler’s diarrhea we passed on the afternoon visit to the temple of Khnum. \240

After arriving in Edfu last night we were ready to explore the Temple of Horus the Falcon God. It was built over about 180 years, starting in 230 BC under the rule of Ptolemy III and the Greek -conquerors of Egypt. \240It’s relatively well preserved. \240We were then back on board to continue south. \240I attended a cooking class by Chef Hassan and a tour of the kitchen while Donna napped.

Our next stop was Kom Ombo and another Greek-Roman era temple dedicated to Sobek the crocodile God years ago. and Horus the Falcon God. \240What was most interesting to me was a relief wall depicting ancient surgical instruments, similar to the instruments I bought in St Barths years ago. \240

We returned to the ship earlier enough to shower and prepare for our Egyptian dinner and celebration. We donned galabeyya, traditional Egyptian caftan-like robes.

We were up at 0430 for our flight to Abu Simbel. \240It took almost an hour to get from our dock north of Aswan to the airport south of the city. Once there we spent more time on a ground delay due to runway traffic than on the 25 minute flight.

The trip was worth the inconvenience. \240The 1300 BC temples to honor Ramses II and his wife Netfertari had been relocated from 1960-1964 because construction of the Aswan High Dam on the Nile flooded the site where they were originally constructed. \240The facades of the 2 temples, with their huge iconic statues were worth the trip. The insides weren’t anything special.

After viewing the temples we literally rushed back to the airport, went through security, and walked directly through the gate back on board. \240Within just a few minutes of closing the doors we were airborne heading back to Aswan. \240The pilot obviously was trying to regain some of the lost time. \240

After a rest we were treated to a felucca cruise on the Nile. When we set out at 5:00 the river was covered with feluccas taking tourists on short trips. \240It actually got very crowded.

Long night. \240I was up from 0130-0330 booking an Egyptair flight from Cairo to London to leave at 1730 today. \240This would mesh with our schefuled return flight from Aswan, due to arrive Cairo around 1500 and would get us out if the Arab world and on our way home (even though I hadn’t worked out LHR-SFO yet. \240 That plan collapsed as soon as we met Hala at breakfast and learned that we wouldn’t be arriving back to Cairo until around 1700. \240I immediately tried to cancel the booking and get a refund of the $950 fare. This was stymied by the Egyptair website which said I could only do so by phone (a futile task per Hala) or at an Egyptair location. \240So plan B would be to do so this afternoon at Aswan Airport when we check in for our flight. \240Meanwhile it looks like our best option is to try to leave on 10/14 since 10/13 is the date Hamas has called for worldwide acts of Jihad; obviously not the best day to be in a major Arab airport. \240So nothing left to do but go about today’s planned activities.

We left Sunboat IV at 0800 and drive south to visit the Temples of Philae, located on an island in the Nile. Getting there was an adventure. The boat landing was jammed with dozens of water taxis playing bumper boat as they barged up to the landing to pickup passengers. \240A 5’ ride took us to the island where the temple had been moved and reassembled after its original island had been submerged after construction of a dam on the river in 1904. Not as impressive as Abu Simbel but still a major project. \240The Greek era temple to various gods was pretty repetitious in what’s becoming an ABT tour. \240Following the temple we visited a papyrus sales shop where several of our group made purchases. \240At the final stop, the Quarry and the Unfinished Obelisk, we opted to stay in the A/C comfort of the bus.

We skipped the morning outing to the bazaar out of concern that it could be a likely target for a terrorist attack. \240This allowed us time for a leisurely breakfasts. \240At 1130 we headed out to the western suburbs. \240We stopped at a carpet school and factory where much of the work was being done by young children, perhaps 10 years old. \240It was remarkable how quickly their hands were moving as they wove the carpets. \240We were them escorted to the showroom. \240In about 1 hour we bought 2 cotton/wool blend rugs. \240We did a special order of an 8X8 blue and beige rug for the LR at Tahoe which should arrive in about 7 months. \240We also bought from stock a 10x13’ beige rug for the bedroom at home. \240After some bargaining we paid $4800 for the 2 pieces.

It had been over 30 years since I last responded to an appeal for a doctor on an airplane flight. \240Today it happened for the second time in 1 week during our Egyptair flight from Cairo to Casablanca. \240This time a 58 y.o. non-English speaking lady was C/O nausea without emesis since early on the flight. \240She’s had similar episodes in the past. She looked uncomfortable but was in NAD. \240She has a PMH of depression. \240PE: \240Frequent belching. HR 90. Abdominal exam showed LUQ and LLQ tenderness without rebound. \240Impression was aerophagia. \240The in-flight medical kit included Gaviscon which was given. \240When we landed 1 hour later the FA advised me she had improved but was improved.

We were met at the airport and driven to the Four Seasons located on an Atlantic beach. \240We met Jerry and Gayle who had arrived yesterday and caught up on news from home. \240At 6:15 our guide, Alamo, \240held a meeting to orient us to the trip. \240We hen had dinner at Bleum in the hotel. \240Now we’re ready to start our tour tomorrow. \240

We left the Four Seasons at about 0845 and drove a short distance to the Hassan II mosque. \240It was built by King Hassan between 1987-1992. \240At the time of its completion it was then third largest mosque in the world, holding up to 25,000 worshippers although it had since been exceeded by newer mosques. It’s very impressive, both outdoors and inside the mosque.

We didn’t leave Rabat until 1730, about 1 hour behind schedule. \240A 2-hour drive along a well maintained 4-lane freeway took os through farmland and olive groves to Fez where we arrived at the Palais Faraj hotel at 1935. \240Built over 100 years ago and remodeled as a boutique hotel built to resemble a Moroccan palace, it reopened in 2012, with 31 suites. \240We rushed to get into our room, unpack, and get to dinner accompanied by a female professor of Sociology at a nearby university. \240She answered many of our questions about modern life in Morocco.

We began our day in the old Jewish quarter of Fez. \240At one time Jews made up 10-14% of the population of Morocco. Now there are only 6000 and 35 families in Fez. \240We walked through the Jewish cemetery and then to the 17th century Aben Danan synagogue which is still in use. \240

We were out at 0815 for a visit to a ceramics factory in Fez. \240The demonstration of the craft was interesting. We looked but didn’t buy anything. Then we had a 1.5 hour ride to Volubilis. This is the site of a Roman city which was built and occupied from 25 BC to 285 AD. The purpose of the outpost of 15,000 was to provide olive oil and grain to Rome. The partially excavated ruins feature well preserved floor mosaics. \240

After lunch we were back in Fez by 1700. \240 We had a nice dinner on the roof deck of the hotel with Jerry & Gayle and Neil & Regina from Houston.

We left Fez at 0915 for what turned out to be a 10 hour bus ride south to Erfoud, on the edge of the Sahara Desert. \240The first part of the journey, after leaving Fez, was across the plain with olive trees and other agriculture. \240We soon began to climb into the Middle Atlas Mountains and had a rest stop in the town of Ifrane. \240At an elevation of 4200’, it was established by the French as a place to escape the summer heat. \240It was quite picturesque, somewhat evocative of a Swiss village.

We began our day at the mausoleum of the great grandfather of the current king, Hassan II in the town of Rissani. \240We then walked through the weekly market in Rissani. It was much like most other markets we’ve seen with the usual food and household goods vendors. \240Our next stop was quite a surprise. \240The desert around us was an ocean hundreds of millions of years ago. \240It left a rich treasure of fossils embedded in the rocks. The “fossil factories” have quarried the rocks and developed the art of slicing them into slabs and then exposing and polishing the slabs into beautiful table tops, plates, and objets d’art. \240I was taken by a beautiful chambered nautilus but, at $400, the price was too high and the merchant wasn’t budging. \240We settled for a nice serving plate at $65 but it’s nothing like the nautilus. \240Then it was back to the hotel for lunch. \240

By the time we finished lunch the wind had really come up, an ominous sign for our desert adventure. \240Nevertheless we loaded into a caravan of 7 Toyota Land Cruisers and set off into the desert southeast of Erfoud. The further we drove the worse the wind, blowing sand, and visibility got. \240By the time we reached the camp at 4:45 conditions were pretty bad. \240It’s blowing 25 knots (per Windy) and our planned camel ride has been postponed or cancelled. \240It’s not pleasant to be outside in the blowing sand. \240Windy shows a major low pressure system over the Bay of Biscay which is sucking the air in and causing our current situation. \240It doesn’t show it letting up until about 0500 tomorrow. \240It’s no consolation that, according to Alami, wind like this in October is unusual. \240Alami is in touch with A&K about whether we stay here or return to Erfoud. \240Problem is that our hotel in Erfoud doesn’t have room for all of us. \240A possible solution is to split the group with those wishing to stick it out staying here and the others returning to Erfoud. \240As of 1830, we are awaiting a decision.

The camp is much nicer than we expected. \240The tents are spacious with a king size bed and en suite bathroom and shower with hot water. \240There are also small lights by the bedside and in the bathroom. \240

Well, a decision was made. \240Patricia, Marylyn & Harry, and Regina & Neil decided to return to Erfoud. \240Counting David and Marjorie who left for Ouarzazate and then Marrakech, that left 11 of us in camp. \240We made the best of the situation. \240Before dinner we sat in front of our tents visiting. \240We then had before dinner entertainment by a group of 5 Berber men musicians. \240 Dinner was in the tent instead of under the stars. \240Now we are hoping that the wind dies in the morning, as predicted.

Around midnight I stopped hearing the tent flapping in the wind. \240By the time we got up at 0700 the wind was still and the skies clear in the pre-sunrise morning. \240 Except for Donna, we all mounted camels and set off into the dunes, climbing towards the top of a nearby dune. \240Near the top we dismounted and slogged our way through the soft sand to the crest of the dune from where we watched the sunrise over a nearby dune. It was a magical experience.

I awoke feeling better with an appetite. \240However shortly later I had diarrhea X3. \240After 1 Imodium and 2 doses of rifaximin, I seem to be better 🤞🏻. \240Ouarzazat considers itself the Hollywood of Morocco as it’s been the setting of numerous movies with desert scenes, including Gladiator, Cleopatra, and Game of Thrones. \240We visited the Cinema Museum which houses indoor sets, props, and posters from movies filmed here. \240

We left Ouarzazat at 0900. \240Initially we traveled west through the desert before turning north and climbing into the Central High Atlas Mountains. \240As we climbed the landscape gradually became greener and more roadside villages appeared. \240The road topped out at Col du Tichka; at 7400’, it’s the highest road pass in Morocco. \240On the north side of the pass the road descended steeply through a series of tight and sometimes hairpin turns. \240We passed through a village which was very busy with a weekly market. Our driver Mohammed, skillfully negotiated the bus through the challenging route. \240When we reached the plain on which Marrakech sits at 1500’ it was apparent this side of the mountains receives much more rainfall than the south side. It was quite windy on the approach to Marrakech, resulting in a brief sandstorm. \240Fortunately, as we drove into the city and away from the bare dirt, the sandstorm abated, even if the wind did not.

We left the Four Seasons at 0930 and headed for the Bahia Palace. It was constructed by the Grand Vizier (trusted advisor) to the Sultan. \240Like most Moroccan homes it is built around several inner courtyards. \240It now serves as a major tourist attraction. \240We then moved on to the Mohammed VI Museum of Water Civilization. \240The interesting exhibits included descriptions of the chemistry and physics of water, diagrams and photos of the kettera system of wells we had seen in the south, and explanations of the critical role water plays in Moroccan society. \240

We didn’t need to meet our group until 1100 this morning so Jerry, Gayle, Donna, Judy, and I took a cab to see La Mormonism Hotel in the Medina. It’s 100 years old but completely renovated 15 years ago and is a spectacular mosaic of old and new. The gardens, said to be beautiful, aren’t open to non guests of the hotel so we wandered around the public areas before returning to the Four Seasons.

Over breakfast we said goodbye to Jerry, Gayle, and most of our fellow travelers. \240Our flight doesn’t depart until 1535, meaning that we (and Neil & Regina) are the last of our group to depart the hotel (except Patricia who doesn’t leave until tomorrow). \240After breakfast we walked around the grounds of the Four Seasons. \240There are adult and family pools, both of which are beautifully done. \240We then hung out in our room until 1300 when we left for the airport, accompanied by Alami who was going to the train station. \240Like the airports in Egypt, the Marrakech airport is modern, spacious, and architecturally stunning. \240Lattice work in the roof allows light to penetrate in a speckled pattern resembling the Moroccan lamps.

No hurry to get going this morning since our flight to SFO doesn’t leave until 1405. \240So we had breakfast and then hung out at Sofitel until 1100, at which time we walked over to LHR to check in and then wait in the BA lounge fit our flight.

The flight home was easy, arriving SFO at 1715. \240Our driver met us and, with rush hour traffic we were home to see the boys by 2100. \240Good to be home. \240