1
Lachen

Background, how we got here…

So, today is the day! I am driving by car to England. Parking my car in Reading and taking an overnight train down to Penzance in Cornwall to start my journey tomorrow morning.

It has been a frantic couple of weeks leading up to today, but I think I have done (most) of the preparations that were required! Well that is to say: I think my bike and gear are ok, but from a training perspective I am woefully underprepared! 🙈

Ever since leaving London for Switzerland in 2010 I have been wanting to do this trip. Having lived in the UK for 7 years or so, it is only after you leave that you realise how little of this wonderful country I have actually seen… then one day I read an article about a woman completing this journey in less than 50 hours!! (Non-stop!) and that is when the idea was born…

A couple of years ago I started planning this trip but then due to various reasons I had to postpone it. This spring the idea surfaced again, but work, skiing and loads of other stuff kept pushing my training plan further out. Then last month we spontaneously jumped in the car for a long weekend in Tuscany with the kids and some good friends. This meant swapping a kids weekend and as a result this month there is a 3 week period where the kids are not with me, so a “natural” window opened to execute my long held plan….

I frantically started preparing my bike (my dad’s Koga Miyata Randonneur from the ‘90s, for those of you interested in that sort of thing) and my gear and I also managed to \240squeezed in a couple of training runs. These actually felt ok, and so I think I have a fair chance of actually completing the trip 😅

I will take it easy with the daily mileage and the speed, and hopefully pick up some more fitness on the way… 🤓

Roughly the route I will be taking.

2
Calais

No ID, no idea!

I left Lachen around 8 this morning and \240 drove by car to Calais. There into the channel tunnel train and then I’d drive up to Reading.

In Reading I’ve booked a car park where I can leave the car and from there I will take the sleeper train to Penzance.

Well at least that was the plan…

Arriving at the British Border control in Calais, proudlyI present my Dutch ID card. Travelling light I had opted to leave my passport at home and take my ID card with me instead… that is 3 grams of weight easily saved!! 🤓 Or so I though…

After taking my ID card, the border control agent smiles and asks me: “where is you passport then?” \240

I smile at him and smugly say: “at home! You know, this is much lighter and I am cycling LEJOG, so I really need to keep my packing weight down…!”

Then it’s his turn to smile smugly… “you know we are not accepting these anymore since 1st October 2021! You can now only enter with a passport!”

My heart skips a couple of beats as I briefly see my plans go up in smoke.

The guys is really friendly though, so he will go and ask his superior officer for a special clearance.

I tell him that I can show him a picture of my passport which he seems to like. He enters my passport nr into his computer and goes off. 20 seconds later he is back smiles and says: “welcome to The UK!”

Great, my plan is still on!! In we go to Reading!

3
Penzance railway station

Last night was all plain sailing. I met up with dear friends for dinner in Windsor. Parked the car in the Reading station car park. Picked up my train tickets and then had an hours sleep in the car.

The sleeper train left at 00:51 and arrived in Penzance at 8 this morning. The train is actually great! It is after all the Great Western Railway!! 😂 no seriously it is a lot better than the German one last year! Clean modern cabin, of course super small but bed was ok too!

I am now sitting on a Costa Coffee terrace having breakfast and waiting for the post office to open.

As you can see on the picture below I have big silver bullet on the back of my bike. It is a backpack with some clothes for when I get up to Scotland. It will probably be cold and I would really like a pair of shoes and a warm sweater for the journey down. Of course that is all dead weight that I don’t want to be carrying around with me for 1500km. So I am sending it poste restante to the post office in John o’Groats. They will keep it for me so I can pick it up when I arrive.

Ok, honesty also commands me to tell you I will need to make a stop at the nearest bike shop, as I just realised last night I forgot to bring my water bottles… 🙈

4
Penzance

After my shopping trip I will cycle to Land’s End (and back!) and then on to St Agnes.

Today we are staring with an easy ride it should be around 74km and about 500hm. So a nice warmup for the days to come…

If you zoom out and look at the whole of my trip, it is quite sobering though…. I have a long way to go!!!

5
Land's End

After sending off my package and getting water bottles (water included for free! 🤓) it was time to start pedalling. It would be about an hour to get out to Land’s End, \240the official LEJOG starting point.

Just before you get to Land’s End, there is the aptly named “ the Last Pub in England”

And then… my first glimpse of the end of the land!

There is a \240little settlement right at the end. Mainly serving the tourists and visitors, I guess. The the size of the car park (huge) the number of plastic statues of pirates, the big playground and the “themed” restaurants made me cringe a bit, so I didn’t waste any time on those and instead enjoyed the views.

The view is more than \240spectacular and, as you can see, I was super lucky with the weather.

No words needed…

People were queuing to have an “official” photo at the signpost.

I didn’t! A selfie will do!

I took a little break, enjoying the views and the weather and then I set off on the official part of my trip!

6
First & Last Inn

From Land’ End I had took the same road back to Penzance. (Apparently there are not many roads that lead the the end of the land..)

First stop: the First Inn in England!

Wait … ! I have seen that place before!

First and Last Inn!! … cheeky buggers!

7
Penzance

Before I knew it, I was back in Penzance (think I may have had the wind in my back!)

The city lies in a beautiful bay, with a broad promenade and a gorgeous broad beach!

In the distance lies St. Michael’s Mount with a gorgeous medieval castle. Looks like it’s worth a visit! Not this time though…

8
Hayle

Immediately after Penzance my route turns north, I cut across the narrowest part of Cornwall towards the northern coast.

I am caught up by Tim, a lovely older man on a road bike. We get to chatting and he cycles up with me to Hayle, where he lives.

I don’t know if it was the fact that I had Tim’s company but it took no time at all to cross over to the northern coast. Hayle lies on a massive estuary that has the typical west coast massive height difference between low and high tide. All around there are boats lying in the mud and no water to in sight! (Sorry, no pictures)

In the centre of Hayle I say goodbye to Tim and stop for a lovely Cornish Pasty for lunch. (If you are not familiar, filled with potatoes, steak, gravy and herbs).

9
The Driftwood Spars

After lunch I only have 30km left to my first overnight stop: St Agnes.

My route takes me across the (very hilly) countryside. A steep climb every \2402-3 km follows by a steep decent. The climbs get \240my heart rate up to levels, I was hoping to avoid on my first day, but I grind my teeth and keep going.

On the final stretch I do get some Google shenanigans again:

She sends me down dirt tracks and even hiking paths! I’m glad I put pretty rugged tires on the bike!

Two more very steep climbs and then I arrive in St Agnes.

My hotel is a super cozy old fashioned pub that has a super laid back, sort of hippie feel to it. There is a beer garden playing relaxed music and with a bar called the Crib Shack.

My room has an amazing view that I can’t get enough of, but I have to hit the shower, wash my clothes before I can take a stroll down to the sea.

10
St. Agnes Beach

There is not much In the way of an actual beach, but the beautiful colours of the ocean and the steep cliffs make for gorgeous scenery.

The sea is pretty rough…

But that doesn’t stop the locals from coming out. First, it is a father with his kids who brave the waves…

But more and more kids arrive and enjoy the waves smashing on the slipway and the rocks.

They play all kinds of games: bodysurf the waves that wash across the slipway, the girls left sit down in exactly the spot where the waves smash upwards. Who ever gets washed off loses and has to climb back up.

This little guy is playing a particularly smart game: he rides a wave that until it crashes on the rocks, he then quickly turns his board and rides the returning wave back out, turns around again to try to catch the next wave in. The clip is not perfect but he managed it quite well a couple of times! (Sorry can’t upload this video right now)

The girls swim out to the big rock in the distance, climb up it and take turns jumping off!

And to top it off the St Agnes Surf & Rescue club come with a whole class of youngsters and head out for a training session.

Unfortunately, I packed my swimshorts in the bag that I sent up north (too heavy to take on the bike 😜), which I obviously regretted today…

11
St. Agnes Beach

Tomorrow it is time to start riding in a straight line.

Well, straight-ish… 😉

12
St Newlyn East

Today started perfect. Waking up to the views of the sea in St Agnes. A quick breakfast and then off we go. 08:20 I hit the road. It was going to be a tough day…

The route for today was 108km but a lot of height difference: 1200m uphill!

The roads were gorgeous all day. Little single lane country roads almost all the way.

They meander through the fields and connect the tiniest of villages.

The only tricky thing is, every couple of miles the countryside is cut into by a river or stream, you race down the hill for 30 seconds and then on the other side the road goes straight up! The incline on most of these \240is upward of 15% and sometimes getting close to 20% (worse than Staldenhöhefor those of you who know it)! Doesn’t go uphill for long. Probably 50-70 height meters, but with gear on the bike I have to go down to first gear. Often just doing 5-6 kmh. Of course I could push harder but I still have a long way to go, so don’t want to go all out.

Between the “cracks” the landscape and views are great though!

And… uphill again!! 😅

This is probably the chimney of an old copper or tin mine. They would have steam engines to pump out ground water or drive various types of machinery. You see them all around Cornwall.

Yes, they still exist. I called home… but used my mobile!

13
Snail's Pace Cafe

The next part of my trip took me up the Canel path. Sorry no camels, just the river Camel!

I stopped off at a little shack for lunch: the Snails’s Pace Cafe. \240It is run by two ladies who obviously care dearly about the environment. (I was glad I came by bike instead of a car 😅)

Water management is also important to them, so they installed a compost toilet. If you don’t have one yet, here is a summary of why you should get one:

The special of the day was a green vegetable curry. By this time I was hungry as a bear and all else that was on offer were cakes. So I though… well why not?

The curry was lovely and not very 🌶 , so I thought I’d be in the clear…

Unfortunately my stomach thought different. I had addition rocket propulsion for the rest of the journey! 🙈🙈🙈

14
Bodmin Moor

After lunch I head to cross over Bodmin Moor. Again a lot of uphill but less steep now. At the top ancient drystone walls marking the fields. Wasn’t really expecting to see this scenery here. Felt more like the North! (But the weather is better😉)

The moor has been inhabited since the Neolithic era. Primitive farmers cleared the trees and started farming. They left megalithic monuments and later the Bronze Age culture left cairns, stone circles and stone rows. .

Of course I could stop and explore .. again another reason to come back!

No words needed really

I’m not sure about the mountain in the distant it is either Brown Willy, the highest point in Cornwal, or it is Rough Tor, the second highest point… suffice to say they are creative with naming their mountains here.

Soon after Bodmin Moor it was goodbye Cornwall and hello Devon!

15
Holsworthy

I didn’t write much about it, but today was pretty tough: I set off at 08:20 and arrived at my hotel 16:45. With three breaks, in total about an hour, that is nearly 8 hours of cycling. I don’t think it was the distance but especially the many many steep climbs. They really drag down your average speed and cost a lot of effort. Legs are pretty sore now!

Tomorrow I have a similar distance to travel, but less height to cover. I will try to adjust my route and instead of the squiggly country lanes try to keep to B-roads. That should avoid all the steep climbs and allow for better progress. (I hope! 😅)

Tomorrow’s destination is Taunton. As you can see, I’m getting to the end of the south western peninsula and the day after tomorrow I should be able to cross the river Severn and head into Wales!

16
The Martlet Inn

The end…

Today got off to a great start, beautiful weather and a gorgeous route!

My choice to get onto the b-roads instead of the little squiggly country lanes paid off: I did 19km in the first hour, compared to 13 kmh average yesterday…

Then came another stretch of squiggly lanes, and I did 13km in the second hour.

So, I took a break and replanned my route…

Another 3km on, disaster struck!

I went down a narrow path, only a couple hundred meters! The path quickly became more and more overgrown so I was riding on the higher, middle part between the tracks, and then my front wheel slipped away and sent me tumbling!

The result:

A nicely broken collarbone! … end of journey…

What followed was a trip to hospital, a lot of waiting and now arranging my return home with the insurance company.

Speaking on the phone to the Swiss doctor confirmed: no more cycling! 😒

I’m now sat in a lovely countryside pub where I am staying tonight. I look forward to a nice dinner, as I am hungry, and then we’ll see what happens tomorrow!

Thanks for everyone supporting me over the last couple of days, your enthusiasm was a great motivator!! I am very sorry to end this story prematurely and not with a better result!

Hope to see you all in the flesh soon!

E