1
Macquarie

Too surreal - on the all to familiar couch watching the footy and in 7 hours I will be on my way for a 6 week adventure/ torture test cycling in Africa. Never been to the Dark Continent - never cycled that far - never been away from fam for that long.

Been spending up big - filling lists - training hard for months - can’t wait to get on that plane….

PS: Never used this app…

2
The Waterfront Lodge

Made it to Vic Falls -Pilot did laps of the falls - no helicopter flight necessary!

Was able to have a cold beer in hand as the riders began to trickle in. A common theme as I met them was relief that they didn’t have to look after Kit anymore.

From Zimcbabwe (south) side- we stayed in Zambia near the big island on the river to the west.

Local pests

And then we went on a river cruise which the locals called the booze cruise. My first day in Africa proper and I can tick off Hippo’s (so many) a croc and weirdly a family of elephants. May as well come home!

Was above there head in fast current

Awake very early due to time difference. Breakfast wa entertaining as a monkey troop literally stole food from people’s hands and would not back down when threatened. Water bottles were a favourite- maybe for the traces of sweet sports and other drinks.

Sunrise- the steam in the background is from the falls

Bike came together pretty painlessly though my first attempt at the tyres ended spectacularly with one blowing with a bang on the way back to the room. Fingers crossed issue is fixed now.

Caught a taxi into town to get SIM card- was sold a dud card so had to go back later. A troop of baboons crossed the road - enticing a story from Bison the driver of him seeing a Baboon being shaken from the top of a palm tree by an elephant- he (Bison) almost had to stop the car he was laughing so hard.

There was a presentation of 35 bikes (one for each rider - the cost was part of the registration fees) to schools in the region from TDA. They have been doing this for eleven years. Much pomp and ceremony, local dignitaries, media and a local dance recital from the school kids. Also free beer and pizza.

Lovely dinner at the flash but virtually empty resort next to ours ended the day - even enjoyed the Pinot and Merlot!

Awoke early due to the sound of the Zambezi river crying out - everybody stop! Falls ahead!!!

Well Victoria falls is pretty amazing. We rode the 10k or so to the falls - crossed the amazing old bridge which is the border into Zimbabwe (Kit’s Canada passport attracted a $60 charge, my Aussie one only $30! Kit thinks maybe Trudeau has pissed off Mugabe.) and visited several lookouts.

A very small portion of the falls - but one we could actually see through the mist

The water level at this time of year is at it’s highest so they were really roaring, to the extent that in many places the rebounding spray was falling like heavy rain 100m above the level of the river. This meant viewing was difficult in some areas but the way the water falls into a canyon means there is always a great viewing spot somewhere.

In order to continue our convention of slumming it so far we rode out to the Victoria falls hotel where Kit had stayed a few times in the past. Built in the early 1900’s in a magnificent position it was really special - as was the g &t’s (stilll fighting malaria of course)

Good spot for a group TDA photo I would have thought - except it is in Zimbabwe

A quick stop to buy a bunch of Nyarmi Nyarmi’s (Zambezi River god necklaces) and we beat the rain back in time for Kit’s obligatory nap.

Nyaarmi Nyaarmi on steroids

Awoke early to the sound of my own brain ticking over trying to prepare for the days ahead.

Very quiet day. Preparing for day zero of the ride. Must have zipped and unzipped bags a hundred times looking for stuff only to find it exactly where it should be. (NOT!)

Anyway - saw a small croc next to some flash hotel rooms - apparently in the same spot where a larger croc swam in and ate a smaller croc just like it a couple of years ago.

Also got our official start of tour briefing - the Elephant part was interesting- apparently they will be everywhere over the next three weeks and they don’t like bikes!

Can highly recommend the Waterfront Hotel and MOSI beer

3
Kasane

Awoke early due to nervous energy and not wanting to be that guy who is late on his first day.

My first day’s cycling- finally on the bike. Getting used to all the feeding and camping routines is a challenge - I may have rinsed once in the washing bucket buit I think I got away with it.

Relatively short ride - about 80k parallel with the Zambezi River - lovely countryside- friendly people.

Crossed a brand new bridge metes from where four countries come together, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe.

Breeze through border only to spend an hour for everyone to get SIM cards - poor girl trying to register me on the phone had no chance of understanding my Aussie accent - a kind local was helping everyone

Set up camp on Chobe river then off for a river cruise - photo’s below. As I am writing this a huge thunderstorm is approaching - comfort level about to drop.

Fish Eagle (I am going to claim I saw it first)

It actually missed us

There were actually two males

4
Pandamatenga

Woke up early to the sound of Hyena’s (I shit you not - we never saw them though).

Shoved all my wet gear in the bag which is officially well overweight now and we headed off down the elephant highway.

Warthogs and a baboon troop on the road early then long periods of African bush and nothing else. Then someone spots an elephant through the bush - I arrive just in time to see it’s retreating butt. (I mean it was retreating not just it’s butt - I gave it it’s privacy. I actually got no elephant photos today because they were all too far away)

B tree

Then later on a family and a single male all in the distance so not threatening at all - unlike James on the tour who was flying along with head down and looked up to see one about 50m away - obviously he lives to tell the story.

Massive fields of maize and potatoes as far as the eye can see near the end of the day - good to see someone in Africa making some money.

Crappy photo of fields - the extent was quite amazing

Cycling was all dead flat and relatively cool with a breeze, so uncomfortable by the end but not hard. Campsite is awesome ‘cos it has showers and a bar. Despite initial excitement I gave the pool a miss because I’m sure I saw something move under the lily pads.

Tough day tomorrow - 150k - hope it stay’s cool.

5
Elephant Sands Lodge

Awoke early to the sound of the party which had been going all night in a camp close by finally breaking up.

Got 5k down the road (Kit says it was 4.79k) and Kit remembers I have left a power cell plugged in back at camp - quick double back and looks like it will be 160k today.

Dead straight flat road with a helping wind (thankfully). Karen from Denmark joined us on the ride - she educated us on good governance (we asked) I educated her on why a cricketer raises his bat after a hundred runs (or in our case 100k).

Passed about 200 young army cadets running in formation and singing.

Elephants everywhere!!

Was a bit slow seeing one early which meant we got too close and I think I spotted one warning sign. I blame kits wheel hub clicker - apparently it pisses off elephants as well as fellow peloton riders.

We saw lot’s more later - amazing creatures- we stop more than we should only to find the campsite we finish at has a whole herd performing in front of the bar. Apparently the owner trucks the water in to attract them. People have been known to have a trunk reach behind them to get water from the cistern as they were on the toilet. They keep them from the bar and pool with sharp spikes on the ground (they have very sensitive feet) but the campground is fair game!

Only the road

6
Planet Baobab

Awoke early due to….. Lions’s roaring!!!!

Then went back to sleep - it was 1:30 and I didn’t really know it was a lion but sort of suspected and it was confirmed by our local driver and animal expert Tino later.

Gorgeous morning - waved goodbye to the elephants (or Elly bellys as our tour boss calls them) and headed down the same dead straight flat road for another 150k day.

Nice cool morning

Very little of interest to report - we both found it pretty hard and just weren’t in the mood to sightsee. The landscape could have been anywhere in the Aussie bush actually, maybe Cattle country in QLD and it seemed pretty hot though probably not much above 30.

The most interesting thing on the ride was this at 123k

Though there was this

Place we are staying is pretty cool - set up in a stand of Baobabs with little round huts for rooms. Looking forward to staying out of the sun in a day of nothing tomorrow.

We stayed in the round huts behind

7
Planet Baobab

Awoke early due to the sound of a a dung beetle (or it could have been a Volkswagen Beetle given the noise) trying to break down the door from the bathroom where I had locked him in last night after a traumatic experience I don’t want to talk about. I managed to give him his freedom by throwing him out the front door but judging by the shell cracking sound the extra weight means they break a little more than other insects when you throw them onto concrete. I didn’t get a good photo - I am waiting to see one with a ball of dung (otherwise it’s just a big beetle right?) and will post that instead.

Today was a rest day - lot’s of chores - hanging around etc A whole dampener was put on the day by the fact that a really nice guy got sent off the tour - admittedly for pushing a lady off a white water raft, but there was a lot of back story - she was no innocent victim.

We had a pub quiz organised selflessly by two dutchies - was fun - our team came second so can ask the team that came last to clean our bikes.

Only other entertainment was watching the campground staff trying to cope with us all in their own sweet/ relaxed way. Hard to get cranky at incompetence when they smile at you like that.

Onwards to a bush camp tomorrow - no showers, mosquito net covered beds or afternoon snoozes (it will be too hot in the tents) tomorrow!

Ohh - and we saw a Bush Baby up close in the rafters at dinner. Was way too quick for a photo but got a look at that very cute face.

Apparently they can be 2000 years old

8
Bush Camp

Awoke early to the sound of Bush Baby’s - they kind of chatter like parrots.

Off down the dead flat road on a very cool morning with light rain and a tail wind - the 120k was looking like a walk in the park and it actually was but I did manage to snap a gear cable at about 30k which added stress - if not difficulty to the ride.

The stress was eased a little by Dennis - the amateur bike mechanic and really nice guy who used the “Jam stick in” technique to give me a couple a easier gears - wasn’t really necessary but he was pretty proud of himself, it worked well amd now I knew something I didn’t before.

Very few animal sightings to report - the rain seemed to have encouraged hundreds of millipedes on to the road - they are at least 20cm long and a couple wide.

Now at my first bush camp - just a bare area on the side of the road - pit toilets and bucket showers - but back to civilisation tomorrow- in fact I think there are only a couple more bush camps in the whole tour.

Showing my travel gumbiness - found out I hadn’t handed the room key in too far down the road to ride back and return it and stuffed up my SIM data purchase so it ran out way earlier than it should have. I aced the pit toilets though….

Tour mechanics fixed my cable no worries.

Rick and Jen - the Telluride Blues festival T shirt you gave me invoked a hilarious stoner story about the festival from the tour extrovert who lives in Denver.

Shaft tailed wydah

9
Maun

Awoke early to the glare of a billion stars in the African sky. Was a crystal clear night and the sky was amazing. My impression is that the northern hemisphere has a more crowded sky - particularly of bright stars when you can actually get away from the light and other pollution but maybe that is subjective. (Editors note - no-one seems to have noticed the deliberate mistake so I will point it out - we are in the southern hemisphere and I am an idiot)

Another big serve of porridge and we are one our way for a relatively short day of about 100k on the flat. Gears are fixed - all going very cruisy. A few more people /cattle / donkeys about otherwise very uneventful

One thing I will mention is the thorns - there are those from the Acacia bushes in the photo below which line the road and will make a mess of your sidewall but the more dangerous one are the 3 sided ones that are everywhere in the campsites and have defeated many tires, tent bases and air mattresses.

Good toothpicks - bad for bikes

We hit Maun and Kit is in his element having been here “Mauny” times before. This is the gateway to the Okavengo Delta so lot’s of tourist things on offer though we won’t really do the delta justice in one rest day. I am trying to get on a sightseeing helicopter flight….

Finally got on one tomorrow morning - will be a miracle if it happens… went for dinner in a craft brewery! Not a bad place and very popular - the burgers were great and the tasting paddle was a minutiare makoro - the dug out canoes the locals use to get out on the delta.

I would do a selfie but those containers make me look vat

Whatever floats your boat

10
Maun - Sedia Lodge

Awoke early to the sound of silence - I was quiet as a mouse in order to not wake lit as I snuck out of the room.

I had a date with a helicopter scenic flight over the Okavengo delta which was very exciting as I had never been in a helicopter before. The chopper was cool - open doors and the pimples on the pilot’s face a little disconcerting, then he got us a beauty when he started flicking switches muttering “How hard can it be - right?”.

Only forty five minutes but we covered a lot of ground and saw heaps of animals. The pictures don’t do it justice - especially at the low resolution I have to post to this journal but it was just amazing to see zebra’s wildebeest giraffe elephant kudu antelope and hippos all a stone’s throw away from each other. The many shades of green in the landscape and network of animal trails all paint a beautiful picture. In a few months the remaining lakes will have all but disappeared and in 6 months the whole area apart from a few termite mound islands will all be under water.

There is actually giraffe, water bucks and wildebeest in bottom left - Zebra at top right

There are hippos at the top of the lake - I wouldn’t want to be that fisherman

11
Sehithwa

Awoke early to the sound of the staff sweeping the pool area. (Was a nice room we had - AC - \240great pool - nice bar - don’t tell any of the other cyclists on our tour who who were camping out the back with the floodlights and noisy birds)

Beautiful morning in Maun but still plenty of traffic at 6am when we set off - kids start school really early - probably 6:30 (take note Tom and Rubes) - plenty of them all excited to see some old men and women on flash bicycles- a few high fives handed out and no-one came off their bikes.

Made plenty of time in the beautiful cool morning on this long day but nothing really of note occurred to report on then all hell broke loose. At a service station coke stop at about 100k a dodgy minivan loaded to the max with people drove over one of the bikes - damaging a wheel pretty badly. Not much could be done about it - the wheel was probably the driver’s annual salary but to his credit he gave 400 pula - about $40. Mechanics working hard to salvage the situation until we at least reach Windhoek and can (maybe) purchase a new wheel.

Mainly cattle country so relatively open bush where the cattle have grazed everything else. Everything quite green though and the towns (maybe 2 in 150k) seem well kept.

Stopped at a coke stop near a foot and mouth control point and Kit had a chat to the govt. officer who was very interested in our troop given he had seen cars, riders and two trucks go back and forth all day. After explaining there was a pause and he simply said “Why?”. He didn’t seem to get it when we said for fun.

Camp is in a nice spot under a huge baobab - would have been a nice spot to pitch our tents if we were early enough - instead Kit has picked a spot on the toilet superhighway. At least there was no curry (or beer) on the menu tonight.

Considerable excitement as Colleen discovered a snake - a Puff Adder to be exact which are quite poisonous. The photo is below. It is a little blurry because it was in shadow under a car and was also only about 25 cm long.

Otherwise looking forward to another cool clear night camping and a slightly shorter day tomorrow followed by a camp with bar and pool.

12
8MXX+62 Ghanzi, Botswana

Awoke early to the sound of campers with shovels queuing up for the pit toilet.

Another beautifully cool and clear morning. A couple of hills are a surprise but good to stretch out the legs then cycling into an area where there is network coverage just adds to everyone’s good mood. Pretty uneventful day - saw a chameleon - funny seeing him try to cross the road n that slow, stop start motion they use - especially when I could see a big truck coming. Somehow he avoids the wheels but gets blown up In the air lands on his back and somehow rights himself before continuing on his very slow journey.

Less K’s and a strong tailwind and I still feel pretty stuffed which is not a good omen for for the long day tomorrow. Nice campsite - brand new with actual grass and terrific milkshakes. Had a chat to the owner and his family, it seems a large part of their clientele will be fro the big new Sandfire copper mine going on down the road. Sandfire is an Aussie company so they deal with a lot of us.

Again a poor photo it campsite was very nice

13
East Gate Rest Camp, B6, Buitepos, Namibia

Awoke to fear and trepidation.

Writing this having completed 208 k of 217k day - about to cross into Namibia so will likely lose network for a couple of days.

Very tough day but it looks we did it - see you on the other side.

14
Xain Quaz Camp

Awoke to the creaking of my bones and aching in my muscles.

Another day another long, frankly pretty boring ride. A slight sandhill climb with a bit of an outlook early in the morning than flat flat flat through cattle bush and getting hotter with a bit of a headwind most of the way. My hands are now really quite sore but not sure there is much I can do about it - hopefully two days off will help.

Get into quite a big Namibian town called Gobabis just before we finish. Was pretty cool to see the locals going about there business - Herero ladies who are Lutheran based (but the Germans ended up persecuting) \240have some amazing traditional dress l will try and get a picture.

Not a good picture - but they are kind of scary - this was in a huge modern shopping mall in Windhoek

Huge lines at the ATM’s due to pay day. SIM card shop was swamped by 40 cyclists - they struggled manfully but it is Africa - took well over an hour. I was relatively quick because I am anally retentive and upgraded to the newest IOS as soon as it became available - first time ever that nurdiness has paid off.

Great milkshake waiting for SIM cards. Nice camp - interesting guy behind the bar - classic big gregarious southern african.. A huge bowl of various (beef and various game like Kudu) billtong- it is magnificent. Not at all like beef jerky in packets, we may have to make some at home!

About to attend a “Burning man” ceremony organised by our staff good guy Noah. You put wishes for yourself in the effigy. People were surprised I only wanted a more comfortable bike ride - not wealth and power or some such - the road is everything at this stage I guess.

Also an extremely cute puppy.

15
UrbanCamp

Awoke early due to excitement that I didn’t have to get on a bike today.

At about 8 am ( the buses being an African half hour late to arrive) we departed for Windhoek. With some hills finally appearing in the landscape and the bus windows being above the surrounding vegetation the view was quite interesting. It reminded me of the dry hills around Townsville or Geraldton WA actually. Speaking of WA - Namibia has a Wild West feel about it, with lot’s of utes driving extremely fast (they drive long distances here too) and given there is no shoulder at all on the road in it was deemed too dangerous for us to ride it - hence the buses.

There were some pretty flash houses on the outskirts of Windhoek up in the hills - spotted a giraffe in the bush near one of them.

Being a rest day Kit has booked us in to a bed and breakfast just next to the camp where everyone else is staying. Quite a striking place - once you get inside the perimeter walls and electrified fence and can see it. Paulo the owner has brought some of his native Italy to the decor, though there are also touches of Africa in the high roofs.

We settle in - then go for a walk. Kit finds a pastry place which unfortunately is sold out but the coffee is nice then we wander into Jo’s Beer House. A bit of an institution, it seats over 1600 people with heaps of little alcoves filled with curios (if that is the right word) like Elephant bones, African masks etc. The bar stools are in the shape of toilet seats and there are thousands of empty Jäegermeister bottles everywhere. Apparently Namibia is the Jäegermeister capital of the world - there were guys doing shots at 1pm while we were there. We had smoked Kudu with our beer - not strictly Biltong but was magnificent. I think as a nation Australia needs to step up with our pub fare - I mean a plate of chips really does not compare in the slightest.

Off to the very flash bike shop for supplies for the thorny dusty desert dirt cycling ahead. The too cool for school bike shop guy said we had every right to worry about the thorns but the heat was worse!

Back to camp to change tyres over - I lost it a little because TDA were doing their best not to provide tools with sufficient air pressure for tubeless tyres which over half the group has and are best for these conditions. Had to walk away (“Stormed away” might be more accurate) and we will see if the situation improves tomorrow.

Out for dinner at Stellenbosch tasting rooms - very flash place in a large European style internal courtyard - top night with top wine and Denis - our friend from Atlanta Georgia.

Found myself querying the taxi driver who charged $50 Namibian when same trip earlier cost $18. Seems a big rip off right? It’s about $4.50 vs $1.30 - maybe I am going native…

16
Sand Rose Bed and Breakfast

Awoke to the sound of suburban silence - or maybe the slight hum of the electric fence surrounding our B and B.

Fantastic breakfast put on by our wonderful host Paulo, then off down the hill to check on bike tyres. They have survived the night well - I adjust the height of my handlebars to take pressure off my hands (hopefully) and am about to brag that I am all set when camp clown Patrick points out that one of the tires are on backwards - a specialty of mine actually. No matter - I will adjust my riding style so that the front wheel is spinning in one direction and the rear in the other 🤪

Kit is faffing around but we eventually get out for lunch- back to Jo’s beerhouse as I have some unfinished business with some game meats. I order the collection to share - as we are sitting there wondering which meat is which on the kebab, the barman turns out with the helpful diagram in the picture below. They were all good, crocodile very different (fatty and more like chicken) - while the others were only subtly different. My favourite was actually the Zebra - maybe it’s the Leo in me.

After lunch Kit heads up for his nap and I take a cab into the center of Windhoek. Some relatively modern buildings and a big shopping mall (where I surreptitiously snap a photo of a herero woman) but otherwise like any other city. The golden independence monument /museum on top of the hill is quite striking and the view from the top (accessed in a glass elevator) is stunning- giving a great perspective of the surrounding hills (which we will have to climb out of tomorrow).

Was just lucky to get the school kids in this shot

Supreme court

Dinner is at Isabella’s Table - a terrific Portuguese restaurant Paulo recommends and who seems to be a great friend of Isabella who gives us some special service. It’s a seafood /white wine night on preparation for tomorrow. It’s also ladies night with all the pretty young locals attending. One girl in particular had braided hair down below her knees - must take a lot of dedication to keep that in order!

17
Guest Farm Weissenfels

Awoke early to the sound of Kit swearing at the coffee machine.

Once that was sorted we were off at dawn through the busy morning traffic of Windhoek. Passed a big stadium at one stage - I guess they had World Cup games here. After 20km we hit the dirt and a massive climb. The views were just spectacular - it topped out at 2050 m asl - about Kosciosco height but there were many much larger mountains around us that have never seen snow.

While the view was awesome - the road was terrible and what with the climbing and a head wind we only averaged 13 kmh- just a hard slog -luckily it was not too hot.

Camp nothing to write home about (though I guess that’s what I’m doing now) - it’s 7:15 now and I will be disappointed if I’m not asleep in half an hour - ciao.

18
Solitaire

Awoke early \240(again) to the sound of that bloody camp dog barking - probably trying to save us from lions or some such then was shamed into getting up at 0430 hours by Steve - the American Air Force pilot who rumour has it puts rocks under his back when he sleeps just to toughen himself up.

Backtrack along the D road which is indistinguishable from the C road we turn onto - ie shit for bikes. Gorgeous morning - lot’s of rocky outcops on this high plateau and large mountains all round in the distance. I’m afraid my photo’s will not do it justice.

I should describe the road - it is very wide but there is only a 50 c/m smooth section on it, surrounded by deep sand. This section usually ends every 200 metres or so, needing a violent turn across the deep sand in hope of finding a relatively smooth section or you will be hit with bone jarring corrugations or just sand too deep to pedal through. It’s just hard work - best to power out of most situations to stay upright but that takes it’s toll on the lgs and the butt after hundreds of k’s.

Oh yeah - we passed this and the dam paparazzi got us

I will have more on weaver birds later - these ones clearly can power their big screen tv’s

Anyway - it get’s even more beautiful after a while but I lose track of both my water and Kit \240looking at the scenery and need to make a “Coke stop” before lunch. Lucky we did, Karn was a wonderful host with great bread, carrot cake, coffee etc. we had a great chat while I guided Kit with messaging to us who was having a bit of a tough day.

Suitably refreshed - Kit and I made it to lunch where he decided to get a lift to the next camp in the lunch truck (A decision he regretted - it took ages!) The truck was actually parked at the very top of the escarpment (70k from the coast) with maginificent views for miles and more daunting- Namibia’s steepest road on the other side.

Clenching my butt cheeks and thanking the fine bike builders of Chattanooga Tennessee I make it down in one piece then open things up for a while on a slightly better road. Every rise produces a new uninterrupted vista - the country is amazing and for once I am making good head way so I am having a great time.

The camp is quite nice - our team meeting is interrupted by a mongoose which has no fear at all. One downer is that the bakery shut and it’s famous apple pies were not available at dinner as promised- a riot almost ensued.

19
Sossusvlei entrance - National Park Gate

Awoke early to the sound of cars trying to make it the 80k down the road to the gate which opens at 6 am to get people to the dunes for sunrise photo’s. When I say “cars” don’t picture some traffic jam - even though it is Easter there is a good 20 min between each car - while the Dunes are world renowned- Namibia is one of the least densely populated countries in world.

Back out on the road and after a good start with lovely morning light we are soon doing it tough on those horrible dirt roads again.

The coke stop at 34 k is a highlight - being a flash camp /hotel with a great view, infinity pool and a couple of warthogs who were on their way through. I love how no-one in Africa is excluded and that even these flash places will do anything to help you - even if you are a grotty cyclist ( or warthog for that matter)

If anything the scenery is only getting better as the road get’s worse. Mercifully the final 13 kilometres are paved as we hit the camps and hotel which are the gateway to the dunes National park.

Once again I get to thank Kit’s experience in these matters as he has booked the nice hotel for our rest day weeks ago. The camp where everyone else is staying is a massive place with little shade, everyone camped on top of another and no network. It is a little hassle organising to get our bags from the truck about a kilometre away in the heat but Joseph from the hotel is a champion and helps us.

There are many Orynx hanging around the hotel/camp- it’s hard to imagine a more beautiful antelope.

20
Sossusvlei Lodge

Awoke early to the sound of Kit getting ready to go on the sunrise dunes experience. I had decided the day before that I didn’t really want to get up so early on my rest day and my time would be better spent preparing for the hard day’s riding ahead. Apparently I missed a good experience and they weren’t trapped in the heat at the dunes all day as I had feared but I think I made the right call for me.

So I slept in until 7:30 - did a lot of organising- cleaned the drive train on both bikes and now feel ready for the test’s ahead.

Might be a good time to mention weaver birds - we have seen their nests since Botswana. Early on their were individual nests but they were unfinished or messy looking at the bottom (I don’t have a picture) - these are the tent builders of the weaver world.

In Namibia the nests are finished circles- the house and garden types of the weaver world.

Then there are the social weavers - they are into large scale apartment blocks.

Rest of the day just hanging out really - chatting and trying to avoid the bar - which is hard when it is the only place with network access.

Buffet again tonight - this photo is one of three BBQ stations they have going - we are not slumming it!

Elan, Orynx, Zebra game sausages… I had the Zebra

Farewell to Sesriem - the water tower had a great view

21
Tolou's Lodge

Awoke very early to the sound of Joseph knocking n the door to tell us he was ready to take our bags over to the trucks - exactly as we had pre- arranged. Unfortunately we forgot to tell him we had later arranged for the truck to come to us. Kit gave him a tip anyway.

Preparation was a little different as we were given dispensation to miss breakfast and the rider meeting so had time to enjoy the buffet breakfast at the hotel. We did NOT have porridge for once.

Another gorgeous morning - red dunes to our right - mountains and hummocks of rocks rising out of the desert all round. Some hot air balloons further on - the view would be stunning.

Another terrible road - despite being a relatively short day at 115k everyone has said it will be one of the toughest of the tour and it was. Kit and I actually thought we were going OK only to find we were dead last at the last coke stop (put on by our magnificent hosts that night - the farmers of the farm stay at Tolou). Arriving just before dark - we find many others had retired because it was too tough.

A talk about the region from our host (they are 150 k from nearest very small town) a gorgeous sunset then we hit the sack in preparation for an even bigger day on these horrible roads tomorrow.

A weird hotel / camp

22
Helmeringhausen Hotel & GΓ€stehaus

Awoke early to glare of the moon and the louder than usual sounds of the camp coming alive. It was such a beautiful night (and I was so tired) that I left the fly off and the moon and stars were beautiful through the mesh.

I had a good sleep so decided to ride the whole 135k despite the warnings that it was harder than the day before. Kit had decided to get a lift to lunch and ride from there for the same reason.

The early part was just as hard as predicted - terrible road and into a headwind but eventually the road improved and I even got long stretches of fast descents which really made the k’s fly by.

Scenery was beautiful as always - we had to get through a stretch of mountains so that highlighted the scenery though I didn’t take many photo’s because you (and I) have seen it all by now and frankly my photography just does not do it justice.

By the way Emma says there a some proper photo’s on the TDA instagram page (I don’t do insta) that a give a much better impression of this magnificent country if you are interested.

I thought I saw a meerkat but it was probably a slender mongoose I am told - otherwise it was a pretty quiet day on the wildlife front.

Got to camp in plenty of time in this little (One shop, one hotel, one house) town of German origin called Helferinghausen. We are staying in the hotel (it has camping out the back) - it has very nice desert appropriate gardens. (No Em I am not stealing you any succulents).

23
Alte Kalkoefen Lodge

Awoke early to the blessed silence. The mosquitoes in the our room were horrible and kept me awake most of the night but Kit had plugged in one of those zappers and it seemed to have worked - either that or they had all had their fill of my blood and had slinked off too have a post meal snooze.

Quite a cold morning (though nothing by Canberra standards).

More beautiful scenery - helped by our mood as we were flying along on a smooth dirt road - downhill and downwind all the way. Lunch was just short of Bethanie- a small town where we stopped for coffee and ice cream. Also ran into a bus load of Australians from Victoria - kind of surreal in this landscape where we might see three cars an hour. They were enjoying it - coming up from Cape Town to Vic falls so pretty much our ride in reverse.

We made the camp in record time (My garmin said so).

Interesting place - on a railway - was an old limestone kiln operation in it’s day and much of the left over machinery was included in the decor.. Rocks everywhere which Kit got very excited about. They had set up a waterhole for wildlife viewing from the veranda- Sprinbok and Babboons just far enough away to make for poor photos- if you come to Africa - bring a telephoto lens!!!

The kiln /oven

The pool was freezing - converted water tank

24
Canyon Farm Yard

Awoke early to the sound of the train rumbling through - he really didn’t have to blow that whistle.

Some good climbs on quite a major road - I had to stop a couple of times to help Toni-Anne with her tyre but Doug the mechanic took over that task and I was free to go catch up with Kit.

Rode into sort of gorge country - just beautiful- passed the fish river - no fish and actually no river. Then onto a largeinclined plain (something you never see in Aus - all the plains are flat I believe - without regular water to shape the landscape the topography is very different) which we follow down.

The lunch truck is near a dam which does have water in it although the river flowing in and the river flowing out does not. A lot of earth (rocks) moved to make it and there is some agriculture below the dam - including a grapa distillery and cafe so I guess it was worth it though in this landscape it looks like a pin drop intrusion. Had a great talk to Em and the kids for the first time in a while as there was network there as well and for once the time difference wasn’t a huge problem (though it was in the middle of survivor).

As usual after lunch was difficult - flat and straight but long(we heard later that 5 riders behind us took the opportunity to give a passing train driver a fright by using it as the naked mile!) \240and we made it to another very weird campsite that was literally in the middle of a sandy desert.

Another very hospitable owner - some more apple pie - good day!

Zoom in to the background - very dangerous

Toilets and showers - as short as they look - no-one cared

25
Canyon Roadhouse, Gondwana Collection Namibia

Awoke early to the sound of a howling wind and crackling fire. It is cold and exposed out here in the desert and a southerly change has come through quite strongly in the night - without rain of course. The staff have lit a fire for us god bless’em.

Today is only a short day (49k so we have time to do a Fish River Canyon tour tonight) so we depart a little later than usual. Jovial mood amongst the group - the usual hares have calmed down and are riding with the rest of the group to some extent. The view is brilliant again - we enter the Gondwana Reserve where they have teams located animals and pretty soon see some Giraffe.

There is a fire behind the ugly bloke in green

Seemed a classic African view - miles of open plain

Roll into quite a flash camp with a vintage car theme (sorry no photo’s). Despite being quite expensive ($120) we take the open topped land cruiser to Fish River canyon. No warning signs or guardrails here - the driver gives us all a thrill / scares the sh$&t out of us by driving right up to the edge ala Thelma and Louise before veering off at the last moment. Very impressive canyon - a little water in the bottom - the guide tells us drought, dams and climate change have affected it as it is usually flowing this time of year. The Americans in the group take great pride in saying it is not a patch on the Grand Canyon of course.

Saw some Ostrich, Orynx and Klip Springer (translation is rock jumpers - small cliff antelope)

26
Felix Unite Provenance Camp

Awoke early to the sound of an owl in the bush next to my tent. Couldn’t see him but was very distinctive - and certainly an improvement on the nuclear klaxon a certain pommy git rider has for his alarm.

Long day (170k) on dirt today - we are up before sun rise - picking our way along the dirt road in the dark before the dawn light opens up to the most amazing vistas. Without a breath of breeze to stir up the dust and views for miles back towards the canyon and surrounding mountains this is the most picturesque ride so far.

After lunch we hit a particularly desolate section of desert - not a skerrick of grass or sign of life - just Rocky Mountains arising from the bare dirt. You can see the road in front of you extending for up to 10 km (we know - we measured) and it seems to take forever to reach the end.

Eventually though we descend into the Orange River valley and suddenly we are surrounded by grape vines - irrigated from this major river which has travelled from the other side of the continent through the desert, much like the Murray. The contrast to the surrounding dirt and rocks is stark. There is also quite a large shanty town for seasonal workers. While not full time accommodation (even though some shacks have satellite TV dishes and neat gardens) it is still hard to imagine people live that way in this incredibly harsh environment.

We also pass a sign saying we are entering a fruit fly free area. Someone should have told the fruit flies because soon they are entering every orifice as fruit flies do.

The last 40k are a real struggle. Seriously hot and dry and monotonous. Douggie the legend mechanic see’s us struggling from the car and stops - opening the cooler and bringing out some beers. I am too sweaty to hug him but the thought was there. As soon as he pulls away the head wind starts in earnest - though mostly downhill it is impossible to coast. We get into a rhythm and grind out the last 10 k only to spend 10 minutes waiting for someone to open the automatic gate!

The camp is quite nice - lovely river views. I play some bad pool on a very bad table then hit the sack.

27
Felix Unite Provenance Camp

Awoke early to Kit throwing open the blinds to show Jill the sunrise on facetime! Rude!

Not really - was a gorgeous view of the river and we had to be up early for breakfast anyway.

Did washing - cleaned the bike - ate ice creams - top day!

28
Springbok Caravan Park

Awoke early due to the alarm and nothing else! Was a top sleep.

Bikes, bags, breakfast etc and we are off. Following the river as the morning sun hit’s the cliff’s on the other side is very speccy.

Only ten k’s in we cross the border - all goes smoothly then it’s a constant climb out of the Orange River valley for about 20k. Never steep but constant through hills and along dry river beds - hard to pace yourself on such a long gradual haul.

The top was not much more exciting - very long flat straight stretches to lunch. Strangely we were actually able to help some locals whose crappy car had overheated - they had no water and not even the most basic tools but with a multi tool they could remove the windscreen washer water receptacle and pour it into the radiator to get them down the road.

Got pretty hot but thankfully a tail wind meant not too long in the saddle. SIM cards In Springbok \240were not a hassle but went to four ATM’s before finding one with money. Omce again - locals were sooo helpful - a guy actually turned around in his car to make sure we were going the right way then gave great directions - plus many other examples.

Disaster at the camp ground as it does not sell beer - Douggie the legend does a beer run and all is happy at camp again.

I hear Em and the kids have made it to Joburg which is a big relief - they will have a great time at Kruger I am sure - can’t wait to see the photos.

PS: If anyone doesn’t know - you can access a map of the points where I am writing the journal entries from by hitting the red flags in the header of each daily entry.

29
Sophia Guest House Garies

Awoke early to the sound of guys in the caravan park starting up their trucks - I think work - like school- starts early around here (this was 4:30 am!).

Off we go down the road. I managed to pack my cap in my daily bag so was looking a treat with a bike maintenance rag on my head all day to keep the sun off - lucky we were on backroads and not say a major highway like the N7 - hang on…..

Was very undulating all day with long descents and climbs - I usually quite like this terrain but was a little tired. There was more granite and less mudstone / sandstone in the geology of the rocky hills than in Namibia. It reminded me a little of Frecinet in Tasmania (I wonder why I was thinking of that?)

Britney, the tour logistics person with a bundle of energy sprints past at one stage and turns off onto a dirt track. We then remember her telling us last night that there was a ghost town on this route. Of course we don’t believe in any of that stuff but follow her just to make sure the poor thing (who seems many times tougher than both of us) will be OK. Was kinda cool - pretty much only parts of the old church remained. If you look closely in the photo’s you will see the strange little girl peering through the windows and the piece of masonry that mysteriously fell from the top of the ruins smashing right in front of us.

The cynic in me says the town (Bowesdorp) should have built a better water supply and fields rather than spent all that effort on what would have been a very large church for few people but whatever 😉

https://www.ancestors.co.za/bowesdorp/

The hills continue after lunch and at the top of one of the bigger ones I could swear I could see the ocean way over to the West. Conveniently a road worker is there and he confirms that it is. (I should have got it in writing - Kit was sceptical at first)

After the longest fastest descent of the day past a Babboon troop we enter the town of Garies (pronounced Harries I believe - I saw plenty of goats in the fields but won’t stoop to a Nathan Lyon pun.)

This town has no water at all - it is all trucked in and Tuesday nights and Wednesday afternoons for a few hours it has no power. It seems amazing this happens in the richest country in Africa. Their politicians should have a long hard look at themselves.

The Garries rugby field has seen better days

30
10 Hoog St, Louis Rood, Strandfontein, 8149, South Africa

Awoke early to the sound of the power coming back on at 10pm - got up and turned off the lights and the kettle and then slept VERY soundly in my private room with a double bed. (There were no suitable campgrounds so TDA paid for all of us to have a room in various places spread around Garries)

On the road again, more rolling hills - countryside looking a little greener - one rugby field even had a sparse covering of grass. Then we saw a river (that was not a major river like the Orange) that actually had some water in it - OK it wasn’t flowing but this is the first non-dry riverbed we had seen since Botswana.

Very long afternoon due to 28k of terrible dirt roads and a howling cross wind that came seriously close to blowing me off my bike a couple of times. Got a bit of a peloton going into the wind with three others near the end which helped a little bit but just a struggle all day.

While we would be very excited normally to see the ocean - and the van park is right on it - arriving in said howling gale that went right through you and chilled your sweaty body to the bone took the edge off somewhat. Arriving then having to immediately sit through a rider meeting in said sweaty clothing before wolfing down some dinner also was not ideal. Fortunately we could join some riders who had secured an apartment for the night and were happy for us to join so at least we didn’t have to deal with tents and the predicted bad weather.

Anyway - better hit the sack - 149k -17 deg, windy and rain tomorrow. Shouldn’t complain - first rain and cold we have had in 6 weeks.

Crappy photo courtesy of Kit - though he did one better than me and bothered to take his camera out in the cold

31
Dwarskersbos

Awoke early to the sound of 5 grown men sharing a warm comfortable night under the one roof and feeling guilty knowing that their fellow riders had endured some horrible rains and wind last night.

The rain was still hanging around as we left for breakfast in the dark and the wind was pretty fierce but it all looked doable.

We headed off firstly down the coast through one quaint village in particular then on to 50 km of dirt. The road was certainly mud in places but this was pretty rare - in fact the rain aided traction and reduced the sand in many areas but it was still very slow going under grey skies and scudding showers.

First rain this cacti garden had seen for quite a while

We were well and truly over the dirt when he hit tarmac and a cafe with the best coffee (and croissants and bacon and eggs) we had had yet on the trip. We also had breakfast with Brittany the sweep - which meant of course we were dead last (of all the riders who were doing the whole 144k).

Pushing on - we hit another 12 k of worse dirt. It was a railway service road - we did get to see one of the longest trains I had ever seen go past. \240Four electric engines - at least 2 kilometres long was returning from the port further down to pick up some more iron ore. The railway was right along the pristine \240beach for miles and miles - one day the planners are going to regret that decision when the area get’s developed.

Lunch - then the blessed tarmac only to hit the hardest climb of the trip so far into a stiff headwind. As Marvin the Paranoid Android said “the first 20 k were the first, the next twenty k were harder and after that I went into a bit of a decline.” Genuine cheers from everyone (who had already finished dinner) as we rolled up - a long tough day again - straight to bed.

To my defence - while this photo is crappy - you try taking a picture of a 2k train!

Halfway up the climb looking back

32
Yzerfontein Caravan Park

Awoke early to the sound of my ear follicles freezing (and the ocean - at least the camper with the idea to play movies at top volume had finally gone to bed)

For the first time I not only used the sleeping bag - I got right in it up to my eye balls - it was seriously cold (about 8 degrees apparently). Luckily there was no wind but it was still pretty miserable out on the road. I accelerated to try and warm up thinking I would leave Kit behind but he stayed right with me - I think he has been doing it easy all this time the old fox.

Scenery had definitely changed to seaside villages - the glimpses of the ocean looked wonderful with very clean water and very white clean sand. (The long 2 days previous meant I hadn’t even had time to go to the beach despite camping right on it.)

Yacht club scenery - we weren’t in desert Namibia anymore!

Rather flash holiday houses (which for once did not have high walls and razor wire- guess it spoils the view - security has it’s limits it seems) then we hit a port district and have a great view of a steel smelter which is the spitting image of Port Kembla though it doesn’t appear to be operational at the moment. Kit thinks a lot a the smelters outside of Asia are doing it tough - being so far from China.

Lunch then 20k or so through West Coast National Park - coastal heathlands and wetlands which focuses on birds - very pretty and surprisingly larg and untouched.

Shark Bay - the wetlands which make up a large part of the National Park

A short highway stint without a headwind for once and we were at the van park not in time to find a room (which was our goal - they were all taken already) or even do washing (more load shedding) but enough time to go for a walk on the beach and check out this lovely town of Yzerfontein.

Yzerfontein

As we arrive in Cape Town tomorrow everyone get’s cycling jerseys. Mine even says I went the whole distance from Cairo - gotta be happy with that. Each came with a summation of each person’s character from tour legend Douggie - mine was something obvious like why would anyone want to do this with their father in law- but in a nice way. Kit and Doug are old friends from another tour and it was very touching.

The crew

We had wine and beer and a fire at dinner which was unusual - top night! In bed at 7:45 really looking forward to putting on the really smelly cycling gear one more time tomorrow.

33
Radisson RED V&A Waterfront, Cape Town

Awoke early to the pouring rain - of course!

88k left in the tour. 60k down the busy highway before a photo opp and last lunch stop on the bay with Table Mountain in the background.

Riding was very cold and wet but mercifully short. The stop was cold and wet and painfully long. Getting pictures taken and waiting for everyone to come in was more painful for me than the Namibian dirt roads, especially as I didn’t think the job was done yet - we still had 28k to go!

Eventually we left in three groups with “guides” to ensure we didn’t get lost or have any encounters with the locals in the more unsavoury parts of town. Of course the groups dissolved in no time at all and Denis got a flat tyre in THE most unsavoury part of town but we changed it and all was fine of course.

Our last challenge was getting 40 riders through downtown Cape Town. It would have been tough enough with an experienced local group of riders but with most of our bunch never having done group riding before we were a serious danger to each other.

Arrival was cool - quite emotional for some. We took over the hotel, one glass of champagne then it was straight to packing bikes in boxes and waiting for our rooms to be allocated (it took until 4pm which was pretty bad considering we were standing around in our wet cycling gear for 4 hours. Also, they gave us a room that had someone else in it who had chained it from the inside. We yelled through the crack but he didn’t answer for over 30 minutes which was frustrating.

Anyway - Em and the kids arrived, cool slideshow presentation then a nice farewell dinner and we were done!

We will have a nice couple of weeks touring SA then it’s home to a new life in Tasmania.

I might summarise the whole experience in one more post when it’s all over - otherwise Sayonara!

34
70 Loader St

Spent 3 nights in Cape Town after arrival. Weather was pretty grey and cold for the first few days - couldn’t even see Table Mountain. Hung around the city - mainly the docks area which was pretty cool - they have done it well with lots of eateries, markets and art. The large old dry dock was empty one day and full the next - would have liked to see that process but didn’t.

Went to Robben Island one day - in pretty thick fog and heavy seas (many people were sea sick). Tour was a little lame, tired signs and not a lot of information and they have to keep it all moving because they \240have to get so many people through but the highlight was the guides. The first guy on the bus was very funny. He was a Xan descendant and could speak Xhoisan (with the clicks and everything). He tried to teach the language to the bus - was very funny seeing people from all over the world trying to get their tongues around it.

The second guide had been an actual political prisoner on the island - he was one of 11 such guides - who had come back to tell people their stories. He had gone in in 1984 - released around 1993. Spent all his time with 40 others \240in one large room with concrete floor - no glass in windows - strip of hessian to sleep on. Many got degrees and other education while in there which was good. Also saw Mandela’s cell. I think it was interesting that they chose to put all these political prisoners together- the whole gaol became such a symbol for revolution that the movement was stronger than if they hadn’t been jailed. Anyway - the guy spoke eloquently - was very moving.

When it was time to go it turned out that our boat had broken down and there were people who should have left 3 hours ago still sitting on the dock. Another boat arrived and it was chaos for a while but we got back around an hour late.

35
Table Mountain

On our last day in Cape Town the weather cleared and we took the cable car up to Table Mountain- along with every other tourist in Cape Town it seemed. The wait in the que would have been over an hour but we paid the extra money and got fast tracked - felt pretty bad for everyone else but was glad we did.

The Cable car was very large and had a rotating floor so everyone could see everything. It was a pretty short ride, you actually drive most of the way up before you get to the station. The operator was hilarious - in deep slow voice, things like “WOW! If you lose your ticket you are walking back down WOW!”, “WOW! There is no smoking permitted on Table Mountain “WOW!”, “WOW! If you lose your ticket it is a long walk to freedom!, “WOW”

Very pretty alpine/Finbos vegetation at the top with incredible views of course. Was surprised to note it was actually not as high in elevation as Mt Wellington, maybe the steepness of it and the fact there are no trees makes it look higher than it actually is.

Dassi

36
Gondwana Private Game Reserve

Have spent four nights in Gondwana Nature Reserve - about 5 hours west of Cape Town by car.

Really beautiful region with endangered Fynbos vegetation and heaps of animals. Was a long drive but extremely picturesque as we climbed up the escarpment. Stopped at the relatively large town of Swellendam for an excellent lunch. Driving was a bit hairy due to the SA custom of moving onto the shoulder of the road (which is usually quite generous) to let cars pass at more than 120k an hour. You are expected to do it for both cars behind you and coming at you - if one person doesn’t get the memo it has potential to go very bad in my opinion.

Anyway the reserve is huge - while the animals are not exactly in their native habitat, most having been brought in - the scale of the place does a pretty good job at hiding the fact that eventually they are all behind a fence. The up side of this is that they are all incredibly used to people sticking cameras up their noses and it doesn’t bother them at all.

Game drives morning and night and in 2 and a half days we had pretty much seen everything plus some amazing sunsets and sun rises.

Springbok, Impala, Wildebeest and Rhino (in distance)

There 5 lions in the park - this is the old male and the cubs - the two lionesses having done all the work we’re keeping guard.

A dazzle of these guys surrounded the house one morning

White Rhino

Buffalo

He politely walked around us when we took his road

There are two Cheetahs- they don’t get on with the Lions

This hippo is renowned for going walkabout large distances from water

Elephants drinking at the swimming pool of course

37
Mossel Bay

After leaving Gondwana safari we made the short trip down the road to Mossell Bay. It was a Sunday of a long weekend and the point area was packed. Swell was very large breaking on to the point so only a few hardy surfers were in the water. We decided to do the zip line despite the wait and was glad we did. Was a heap of fun. Very fast and over a kilometre long from the cliffs to tourist central on the point. Em even timed her run to go through a huge wave - getting soaked and a huge cheer in the process.

Dinner was at a restored train restaurant on the harbour - funny how we do these things when we are tourists- the quality of the restaurant was exactly what you would expect from a tourist trap train place.

The next day we were up early to go on a dive with the white sharks adventure. I for one was quite nervous not due to the thought of getting in the shark cage but was not looking forward to a long boat ride and cold, rough weather. It actually all turned out fine as wheather was beautiful and boat ride was just in the bay - about 30 minutes. Once at the right spot(only 200 metres from a popular beach!) \240the crew start’s chumming and pretty soon a shark (or maybe two) appears briefly every 20 minutes or so. They were ”only” about 2 metres long but still very impressive - showing all their teeth and attacking from below as they do.

Our digs for the night was in a place below a supermarket with a great view of the bay. We took the opportunity to have a home cooked pasta meal.

38
Clifton

Awoke early due to the fact we had to drive five hours back to Cape Town.

Another gorgeous drive on a sparkling day - this time on the northern route 60 - some say the route 66 of the Cape region. Lot’s of flat irrigated valleys with high mountains surrounding. We had lunch at a bakery that was hands down the best bakery I have ever seen. The pastry on the sausage rolls and pies was to die for.

Wineries everywhere. Then you go through a tunnel and come out in Stellenbosch proper with huge estate wineries and luxury car yards.

We had very little time so only stopped at one place - a “black winemaker only” cellar door. Wine was OK - tasting lady was very entertaining and enthusiastic and it was good giving out money to trail blazers in the industry.

On the road again and back across Cape Town to our digs in Clifton. Built back into the Table Mountain cliffs with a beautiful white sandy beach you certainly didn’t need a TV what with the ocean views and parade of bodies beautiful coming past day and night.

The next day we took a drive down to the cape - more eye dropping scenery, but very high, narrow windy roads so very glad I didn’t ride it as planned, especially with the TDA group of stray cats!

Took the furnicular up to the lighthouse - Tom lost his ticket- the walk down took him all of 10 minutes.

Had a beautiful seafood dinner at a local restaurant for our last night - chatted to an Irish couple who were just starting their holiday - seemed a nice way to end it all!