About to leave for Ireland - we are (mostly) packed. \240

Bobby and Meg are already on the way.

Can’t wait!

After a delay of about one hour, the flight was uneventful but none of us could sleep more than a short nap. \240We arrived in Shannon Airport and met Bobby and Meghan.

We rented a big VW SUV and stuffed ourselves and our excessive luggage into it. \240We met the host of our first Air BNB who brought us to his house.

Out in the countryside, after a ride on ever narrowing roads, we arrived at a large and charming home, Fort Lodge. \240 Oddly, It is decorated more like an elegant British home than an Irish farmhouse. \240There is a British Empire feel to it with heavy, ornately detailed furnishings, antiques, African art (or at least African inspired) and lots of taxidermy. But it is perfectly appointed and very comfortable. \240And it does come a peacock, a rooster, some overly friendly chickens and a miniature horse.

Our hosts showed us around, and left us a nice continental breakfast.

After a short time, we all took a nap. I woke up first, stepped outside briefly and was met by the chickens who apparently thought I should let them inside. I declined.

We slept in, and Bob and Meghan made us breakfast. \240We then went to the airport and exchanged the car. \240

We had a hair dryer with us because the hostess gave it to us on the way out. \240When we were emptying the car at the airport, Bobby was not happy about holding the hairdryer because it could look like a weapon.

We went to Limerick and went to the Hunt Museum. \240There it was an eclectic museum with diverse exhibits including Stone Age, medieval and European art.

After shopping we went to the Curragower which is a restaurant/pub across from King John’s Castle. \240

We started out in Ennis, at the Ennis Friary. \240It is right in Ennis, a bustling town, but it is from the 1100s and parts of it were well preserved.

When we arrived, we asked about tours and were given an impromptu tour. \240The woman said she would “get us started,” but she spent a good amount of time with us, sharing the history of the site, and of the rise, fall and rise of Catholism in Ireland.

After Ennis, we spent much of the day with my Dad’s father’s family.

We found Lissofin, the area where my grandfather was born. \240His family still lives there and a large number of them turned out to meet the American relatives even though my grandfather hasn’t been back since the 1960s, and my aunt Maureen and cousin Colleen haven’t been here since the 1990s.

They were incredibly welcoming.

Peggy and Clare greeted us graciously. \240They listened to my Dad’s stories, and \240fed us a big lunch, and endless desserts. \240While we ate, additional family members arrived, crowding the small kitchen.

Two younger members of the family, Ava and Leah, are musicians and singers (as well as Irish dancers and hurlers). They performed on harp and guitar, and sang both contemporary and traditional songs, including one about Ellis Island. \240Meghan, Bob and Caitlin reciprocated and sang a few songs, and it was a lot of fun.

After lunch, we toured the farm, and saw the “fort” that no one was permitted to interfere with. The house my grandfather lived in had been torn down, and a newer has built directly in front. \240Peggy and Sean confirmed it was an old house, with only a central kitchen/living room, 2 bedrooms on either side, and a loft. \240Peggy said it was very similar to the modest homes at Bunratty Folk Village.

We went to the cemetery, and saw some of the family plots. \240Nearby there was the ruins of a church that was only partially built. The story was that Sam McCollough was building a church and when some of his people were coming with money to buy more building supplies, 7 people robbed them. \240Supposedly they were all turned into stone.

A short walk away there was a small well surrounded by stone. It was said to be Sam McColough’s well and its water was supposed to cure eye afflictions.

We also saw the schools that my grandfather attended and the church in which he was baptized.

Afterwards we watched a hurling match while Leah and Sean tried to explain the rules of hurling.

We left from there, thanking everyone for all the gracious hospitality.

After Lissofin and Tulla, we went back to Ennis for dinner and to see if there were clubs or bars with traditional music. \240We went to a restaurant which was good, and hit a few bars after. \240The seats were tough for my dad, and my parents were both very tired (Cait was also falling asleep) so we bought some ice cream and supplies for breakfast and headed back to the Lodge House. \240

We started the day with a walking tour of Ennis. It was interesting to learn of the historical events that occurred there. My favorite story was about the witch Biddie Early.

We said goodbye to the Fort Lodge and traveled through incredibly narrow meandering roads to the West Coast.

We are staying at the Glenvale house in Fanore. \240Fanore is a remote town with only a pub and a tiny market. \240The house is beautiful with incredible ocean views.

Hiked to the Cliffs of Moher. \240Blue skies.

Had an early dinner in Doolin at Gus O’Connor.

Went back to the house for wine.

Went to Doolin to hear music.

Went to McDermits

Went to McGans.

Aillwee cave

Farmer’s Shop for cheese and Mead

Ruin in Burren

Drove through Burren

Hazel Mountain Chocolate

Burren perfumery

Back to Doolin for Dinner and music.

Dinner at McDermotts

Music at Gus O’Connors

Left BnB

Traveled to Galway

Walking tour starting at Hall of the Red Earl.

Back to BnB

Went to Hooked for dinner

Listened to music at 1520 bar. \2402 acoustic musicians who got better with time.

More music at the Taafes. Traditional Irish music.

More music at Quays.

Scones for breakfast.

Meghan left early and walked around the city. \240 She joined another walking tour.

We went to the Galway Museum. Then we joined cousin John at Sonny Molloy’s, also known as The Front Door. \240John told us many stories. We were there for hours.

We went back to the air BnB and had wine.

Bob, Meg and Cait went on a Pub Crawl.

We took Gramma and Grampa out to the King’s Head.

We went to Taaffes and listened to Irish Music and spoke to some guys from Montona and 3 woman from Ireland.

We went to the market and got some baked goods. Gramma and Grampa got a gift for Grace. \240Then we traveled to Leenaun to meet Cousin John and his daughters by the Kilary Fjord. We had lunch at the Fjord Cafe. The we followed John to Culfin, Connemara. He let his dogs out to run along the car at various points.

We first went to the cemetery. We saw the grave of my great grandfather and the stone likely marking my great grandmother’s grave. \240Then we went to the pier where John fished for mussels.

Then we went to the farm where they used to have some livestock and vegetables. \240John brought us to the water where they fished. He showed us the cursed house.

Then we went to a local town and had an early dinner at the Cloverfox. \240We met Mary Laffey, who was my grandfather’s brother Kevin’s wife, John’s mom. John’s girls were Sofia, Simone and Aila. \240

We also met John’s sisters, Trish and Anne, and Anne’s husband Ronan Scannel. We had an early dinner. \240

We left and drove by an Abbey. \240The we came back to the BnB. We went out for gelato, and went the Kasbach Wine Bar for wine, cocktails and light fare.