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1
Bewley's Grafton Street

Dublin! 🇮🇪

After a rocky night of sleep, took the Dublin Express downtown.

Whole bus to ourselves (at first).

A kind porter pointed us in the direction of our hotel and the Bread 41 bakery.

Dropped bags off in room, then grabbed tea/coffee before the 1pm showing of Magic Play at Bewley’s Cafe Theatre. We were both thrilled to be in Ireland at last :)

Used Ellen’s euros for coffee 😊

Sitting on the balcony of Bewley’s after the show, listening to a street performer, was one of the most memorable moments.

Stopped in St. Teresa’s church to pray and light a candle for Mikey.

Irish Whiskey Museum! Loved the tour guide who told us about triple distilling in pot stills and about Irish self-depricating humor.

Ran back to hotel to change clothes before dinner 💕

2
FIRE Steakhouse & Bar

FIRE Steakhouse. Thanks to Katie and Mare for the delicious dinner!

St. Stephen’s Green

First Guinness of the trip! The wrong O’Donoghues 🙈

Then stopped by the Auld Dubliner and Oliver St. John Gogartys in Temple Bar. Neil loved the Green Spot and we heard Country Roads! I was crashing, so we bought a bottle of Bushmills Blackbush to take back to the hotel. The whiskey tasting glasses came in handy!

3
Bread 41

Bread 41. Favorite bakery and right beside the hotel!! I got a morning bun and a raspberry almond Danish, and Neil got a sausage roll. Tea was also amazing.

4
Howth

Took train to Howth.

Best Irish coffee of the trip!

Stopped for lunch at Octopussy. Prawns pil pil, oysters, and enough brown bread to save as a snack!

Lots of spiders tucked away in the nettles. \240Stopped for a brown bread snack and Neil’s best nap in a bush alcove.

The heather was everywhere!

Grabbed a fabulous Guinness at O’Connells and talked about our new marriage! Then Neil tried fish and chips (and mushy peas!) from famous Beshoff Bros.

I wasn’t hungry, so we went to the SuperValu on the way home to grab veggies and dark chocolate. The small kitchenette came in handy at the hotel!

Dublin

Glendalough

Finally made it to Glendalough. I nearly die on the drive from anxiety 😫 But Neil gets us there safely. Quick visit, but still get to see the church and crosses and a family of deer!

Quick dinner of salad and bread, then off to D…. to beat the sunset.

The B&B was a much-needed respite.

Lovely wake up and breakfast at the Maple House B&B 💕 Recommendations for Carlingford Lough from the golfers.

Couldn’t make it to Bru na Boinne, so went to Monasterboice and Old Mellifont Abbey instead.

Carlingford

Views of the countryside and the water are beautiful. Seafood lunch 🍤 Saw a castle!

Continued the drive to Donegal. Roads got much better in Northern Ireland and everything changed to mph! Lunch didn’t sit well 🤢 but made it safely to Clooney and Gortnamana.

Maureen treated us to just a nip of wine, veggies, and garlic bread with Jim and Hugh. Learned about Catherine (Neil’s grandma), Hugh (Jim and Hugh’s father), and Bridget (Maureen’s mom) Callaghan. Maureen showed off her William Morris furniture.

Got to stay in Jim’s house. Stars were beautiful ✨

Callaghan homestead in Gortnamana

Woke up to incredible views of the M Bay. Cows and blackberries right outside the door.

The fuschia is blooming everywhere. Maureen left us yogurt, strawberries, and granola for breakfast.

Maureen called these ballerinas.

Mass at Massmount (St. Columba) across the bay. Visited the graves of many of Neil’s relatives, including his great grandparents.

Stopped at the Callaghan farm. Hugh collected the eggs and showed us photos and the house. Maureen cooked breakfast and wowed us with her poached eggs.

5
Fanad Head Lighthouse

Fanad Head Lighthouse

Drove with Maureen to the beach (Neil gets a break from driving!) and then to Fanad Head. Toured the lighthouse with Hugh. The steps are steep!

Zoom in… beaches, lighthouse, rocky coast, and islands in the distance.

View from Fanad Head

Jim took us to see Michael Gallagher (pronounced “Gallaher”) and the Gallagher farm where Johnny (Neil’s grandfather) grew up.

Rest Day!

Woke up to low tide and weren’t sure about the views. That changed by the afternoon!

Stopped at St. Joesph’s church to pray.

Breakfast at Deli 19. Loved the tea set up. Sausage roll and poached eggs (found a new favorite).

After learning that it was a bad idea to walk Sky Road, attempted to walk Dxxx but got lost. Saw beautiful views of the town and our house from the other side. Met some horses. Neil found a shamrock.

Walk #2 was out to Clifden Castle. Sat on some rocks to meditate and chat 😊 Managed to find the castle and explore. A little tough walking home but we made it! 💕

Guys Bar for dinner

Neil got the mussels and I had beef bourgeoisie?? Best dinner of the trip for me!

Practically licked the bowl clean.

Lowrys Pub

Neil’s favorite Guinness of the whole trip.

Live music, but mostly contemporary. The white haired patrons were not thrilled, but the drunk college boots loved it.

Rainy Day

SuperValu for our own Irish breakfast: eggs, sausages, sourdough, and finally fruit!

Much needed run for Neil and yoga for me. Made a plan for the week, together.

Stopped at Upstairs Downstairs for snacks (carrot cake!). Then Clifden Bookstore for an Irish history and fiction book. The owners were very helpful with recommendations.

Rainy day reading at EJ Kings with a Guinness, seafood chowder, and brown bread 🥰

Then stopped at the SuperValu for laundry detergent and 99% dark chocolate and reading on the couch 💕

Cleggans Harbour and Claddaghduff

The red shack is temporarily closed 😭 Dinner at Olivers instead, lobster and prawn Caesar salad.

Drove Sky Road (along Wild Atlantic Way) and I got super anxious. Sky cleared up a bit for the views.

Clifden Arts Festival begins! Started at McGraths with a father son music duo and a fire. Great for a rainy night.

Then to Lowrys again. Fun musician but I fell asleep 😴

6
Connemara National Park Visitor Centre

Cooked breakfast, then headed to Connemara to hike Diamond Hill.

The clouds rolled in as we were hiking, so the landscape kept changing.

Neil especially loved the view from the top. I loved the view of the water. We also found some Connemara ponies and some marble to take home.

The ponies we met were in that field.

You can see the rain over the bay.

Kylemore Abbey in the distance!

The clouds kept rolling in!

Heather!

The Twelve Bens

More heather

7
Kylemore Abbey & Victorian Walled Garden

Kylemore Abbey

Started with tea at the Garden Tea House with a view of the mountains and the ponies. 🫖⛰️

Connemara pony

View from the Garden Tea House

Stopped in the Gardens.

The Wedding Cake Tree 😂

Found a hidden bench to sit and read 📚The couple who donated the bench has also spent their honeymoon in Connemara

View from the bench

Quickly toured the Abbey / Castle.

Stopped to pray in the Gothic church.

The lake walk back was also beautiful.

Neil liked the pine tree.

8
Veldons Seafarer Bar & Restaurant

Letterfrack

Stopped for dinner at Veldons Seafarer Bar and Restaurant. Met Hugh O’Toole, a painter who had moved there from Dublin. He only paints the Diamond and the Twelve Bens. Shared the recommendation of Bog Road to see the Twelve Bens.

Tried to visit Bog Road on the way home. Ended up at the Alcock and Brown memorial trail (first transAtlantic flight?). Neil took us on a trek down a dirt road.

Rested at home with a bath (whiskey and dark chocolate is a great combo!!) 💕💕

Lowrys Pub

Managed to get seats at Lowrys with another group. Same guy as the night before with Irish classics (Galway girl, Dirty Old Town, Beeswing, etc). Neil asked for Seven Drunken Nights and got the R rated version 😂😂

Late night drunks finished all the toast, read books, and played Zelda 🍻

9
Beach Rd

Slow morning in our favorite Clifden house. Breakfast with the beautiful bay view. No bread because we had eaten it all the night before 😂 Neil tried the porridge.

Low tide in the bay

Lunch at Mannions with Irish BLTs (more like a ham sandwich) and shopping for gifts at Lowrys Gifts (first cousin of Lowrys Bar).

Cooked steaks and veggies from the butcher for dinner 🍽️ Neil even treated me and went out to buy Irish soda bread from Walsh’s bakery.

Finished most of the whiskey and the dark chocolate 💕

10
Sky Rd

Sunset along Sky Road

The yellow and purple flowers!

11
Griffin's Bar Live Music & Bar Food

Music at Griffins was beautiful, fiddle and flute.

Met friends at Lowrys pub who bought us one too many drinks. Saw same singer for 3rd time. Our favorite seats.

Thank goodness for the soda bread and Zelda back home!

12
Derrigimlagh

Bog Road, aka Derrigimlagh

Found the real Bog Road… well worth it!

I understand Hugh’s painting now!

Tree tunnel!

Sheep!!!

Where I made Neil pull over earlier

Aran Islands

Ferry to Aran Islands. Quick tea and rented bikes from a helpful guy. Wasn’t a great move. Our chains fell off multiple times 😬

Windy but beautiful views. Stopped at the Seal Colony and Dún Aonghasa. I refused to take pictures cause I was moody 😫

Got lost on the way to the Wormhole but a couple helped us out.

Raced back, I cried, and Neil fell off the bike. A Guinness and a sandwich on the way home made it much better.

Evening in Galway

Corrib Tea House is a gem. Dinner in the garden from Papa Rich Woodquay. Green curry and phad tai 😍 The hostess entertains us with Irish history and stories.

The Corrib Princess room fits the name! Tea and biscuits and a book 🥰

Head out to the Quays (recommended by Amber in Dublin), which was hopping but a little overwhelming. People watch at Tigh Neachtain instead, then finish at Tig Chóilí with Irish music.

13
Corrib House Tea Rooms & Guest Accommodation

Corrib Tea House in Galway

Loved every part of the breakfast. View of the river. Peppermint tea. French toast. Salmon florentine with poached eggs and boxty. My favorite breakfast in Ireland.

Took a slow morning with time to read in the room before checking out 📚 💕

Tea in the garden 🪴

14
Galway Cathedral

Galway Cathedral

Mass and time for prayer

Youngest stone cathedral in Europe. Built in 1960s.

And a mosaic of JFK 😂

Right across from our B&B on the river

Pedestrian bridge to cathedral

15
Galway City Museum

Touring Galway

1. Galway City Museum 🏛️

Learned about the Irish Revolution and Civil War.

2. Much needed lunch at The Quay Kitchen, Neil got a whole lamb shank. 🍗

3. Charlie Byrnes books for more Irish history books. 📕

4. Stopped by Tigh Neachtain again for the last Guinness. 🍺

5. Spent most of the remaining cash on gifts… Found a sweater for Dad/Rob!

6. Walked past the Hall of Red Earl and the Spanish Arch.

7. Finished with a spice bag from Xi’an Street Food, which Neil ended up sharing with a homeless man. 🍟🥢

16
Carrygerry Country House

CarryGarry Country House

One more treat; a four poster bed!

The writing desks were fabulous too.

Packed up, then finished with peat whiskey and tea and a book in the drawing room downstairs. I almost fell asleep in the bath 🥹

CarryGarry Country House near Shannon Airport

Continental breakfast in the dining room

Outside the house

The view from the four poster bed this morning.