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Israel and Balkans Spring 2018

Apr 20 - May 17 2018

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Apr 20 2018

My Chevruta

Today I met my very good Israeli friend, Dror Osnat, for the first time. \240After six years of virtual friendship via Skype and project Zug, we finally met in person. \240And, his lovely and kind wife Eva. \240Such a joy to finally meet him, Eva and his daughters - Sahar and Shachar. (We met the oldest Guy toward the end of our visit). We had a wonderful week long visit with them in their nice flat as we stayed in Guy's room as she is now in the IDF.

Wonderful goat cheese stop in the North.

On the Ashdod beach.

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Menachem Begin Blvd 43, Ashdod, Israel

Apr 22 2018

First Full Day in Ashdod

Let’s get our priorities straight!

My friend Dror and I at a beautiful beach on the Mediterranean.

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Apr 22 2018

A Day in Tel Aviv

We drove to T.A. with Dror, who had a meeting in the afternoon. \240And, there started an extremely interesting Graffiti art tour in the Florentine area. \240Our leader Illyn was extremely knowledgeable and thought provoking and believe it or not, learned a ktzat from us too. \240Here are the pics, which speak a 1000 words.

The band-aid is the signature of this artist, \240called DeDe.

Barbara with Illyn

One of the first graffiti art pieces depicting the assasination of Rabin.

A well known graffiti artist is called #TAG. \240Here is one of his pieces with another artist adding to it to the left.

Arms around each other! \240Jew and Arab.

An Israeli and Palestinian - such a hopeful way to end our tour!

What next - delicious lunch food of course!!

Electric bicycles are everywhere in both Tel Aviv and Ashdod.

And cats are ubiquitous too.

Sorry for the crummy picture. \240Dror and Eva treated us to a very special concert in the evening. \240Featured a meeting of East and West, and played the music of a town in Algeria where both Jews and Muslims were part of the ensemble.

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Apr 23 2018

Trip to the North, part 1

Today we headed North toward the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee). First stop was Beit Shea’rim where the Mishna was written and signed by Rabbi Yehuda BEN Nasi. He became so famous that Jews from all over the region wanted to be buried near him at Beit Shea’rim.

This site was discovered by accident less than 100 years ago. It has a a fascinating glimpse into Jewish history from 220 CE to 450 CE when the village was destroyed by earthquake.

This mausoleum was discovered by accident less than 100 years ago. \240

Above the cave in a shady spot amongst the trees,, Rabbi Hanasi instructed that students study Torah as a way of remembering him. They do so to this very day.

Inside the family tombs. \240It’s huge.

Often, just the bones were transported here for burial, thus requiring only small spaces in the walls.

A Mezzuzah.

NOtice the Hebrew writing.

Grave robbers broke the top of this menorah, but it was recreated later.

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Apr 23 2018

Special stop at Beit Lechem of the Galilee- wonderful spices

Shakshuka spice mix. Yum!!

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Apr 23 2018

Trip to the North, part 2 - Lunch

After this interesting tour (we were the only “guidees”), lead by a very knowledgeable guide mostly in Hebrew with Dror translating, we headed off to lunch. And, what a lunch it was! \240Limousine was the name of this amazing steakhouse and it was every but as good as the best steakhouse in Buenos Aries!!

We had a mix of beef and chicken wityh chimichurri sauce - all mouth watering lay delicious. \240But, alas, I forgot to take pics. \240However, here are three of the desserts we shared.

Creme Brûlée with fruit

“Pavlova”, meringue with fruit and cream.

Apple strudel with mango ice cream

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Apr 23 2018

Final Stop - Bet She’An

We had a fantastic night tour including a sound and light show. This place is one of the best archaeological sites in Israel and maybe in all of the world!

Short history-

The amphitheater at Beit Shean. Credit: Vad Levin

Beit Shean was settled as early as the Chalcolithic era (about 6000 years ago) and has remained continually inhabited since then. Extensive excavation of a large mound in Beit Shean has revealed over 20 layers of remains from ancient civilizations. Canaanite Temples pre-date Egyptian occupation of the region followed by Israelite rule and the Philistines during the Old Testament period. Beit Shean is mentioned in the Bible several times and is best known as the site where King Saul and his sons were hung from the city walls. The city remained a significant metropolis during the reign of King David and King Solomon. The Hellenistic period followed when the city was renamed, Scythopolis after Dionysus’ nurse who was believed to have been buried here.

In the 1st century AD, Beit Shean became a flourishing multi-cultural Roman city and one of 10 cities in the Decapolis regional league. Beit Shean was the Roman provincial capital in the 4th century AD but following an earthquake in 749 AD the city never truly regained its former status. Since then the Crusaders, Mamluks, Ottomans, British.

At one point, 40000 people lived in the Roman city.

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Apr 24 2018

A rainy day in Israel in late April!!

Quite rare is rain, especially a heavy all day soaking rain, but that is what happened this day. We started with a lovely breakfast at Kibbutz Ashdot ...., then drove nearby to the cemetery of the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee). \240There are buried many of the famous Zionist pioneers who came to reclaim the land and farm it again. \240It was a very tough life and conditions for these rookie farmers who had to deal with malaria, cold, dampness etc. \240

Then, we got a taste of Israeli reality. \240 While meandering the souk in Akko, Dror received a phone call from his oldest daughter Guy. \240Apparently, the IDF screwed up royally! \240Guy was due a week vacation after a very arduous period, but instead she was assigned to go the next day to a week long officer qualification test. \240We ended up driving to her base near Jerusalem to bring her home to get needed supplies and to comfort her. \240We ended up,going through several checkpoints as we drove back and forth from Israel proper and the West Bank to get to her base.

Dror and Eva bought a chime for their balcony.

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Apr 25 2018

Visit to Eva’s Adult Day Care Center

Eva is a rock star!! \240At least at the Day Care Center where she serves as the social worker. \240When we arrived, we heard “Eva!! \240Where have you been?” \240“We were afraid you weren’t coming back!” Etc. etc. \240You can tell they really love her there! \240She blushed with all of the compliments.

It is truly a wonderful place full of life and activities and languages - Hebrew, Spanish (large contingent of elderly from Burns Aires), Italian, Russian, Georgian, and even one woman who only spoke Umharic.

The most remarkable person was the elegant lady from Iran - in her 80’s, dressed and coifed perfectly who is deaf and mute. \240But, she manages to communicate with Eva and also she is a very talented knitter.

We followed that with a lunch at an “authentic” Tunisian tuna sandwich place. \240Delicious!

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Apr 25 2018

The Wedding!

Among other things, Dror is a wedding officiant for couples who want a religious ceremony but not one performed by an Orthodox rabbi. \240And tonight, we along with Eva, were invited to attend not only the ceremony but the reception before the wedding and the dinner afterwards.

Wow!! What an affair - about 500 guests with amazing quantity and quality of food. \240The \240ceremony was very nice too. \240Pics —

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May 01 2018

Ljubljana

This is a beautiful city. A cross between Paris and Amsterdam-on a much smaller scale of course. The architecture is primarily the work of Jože Plečnik, who retired to his native \240city after working in Prague. It is striking in its originality! \240Pics.

The university library

Dean’s house

Alive with live music!

A flower shop

Castle in background

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May 01 2018

From Ljubljana to the Chalets Nebesa (“Heaven”)

Our excellent, helpful and friendly Slovenian driver, Mitja, picked us up at 9 for our day long trip.

First stop - Lake Bled, where some of us hiked around the lake.

The second Slovenian island - Barbara took a boat there.

There is a rowing/sculling center there from which Slovenia has produced all of these Olympic champions!

Mitya took us to a wonderful lunch place!

Mushroom soup

Cabbage salad

Next stop - Lake Bovinj and the ski resort.

This scene rivals the Norwegian Fjords.

From the gondola to the top.

They are still skiing band skimobiling here - in May.

Mitja (pronounced Meetya) and Roberta.

This plush Renault Van comfortably holds the 5 of us and our luggage.

We drove onto the auto train to go through the mountains!

Some train videos.

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Livek 39, 5222 Kobarid, Slovenia

May 03 2018

Chalets Nebesa, near Kobarid, Slovenia

This literally translates to Chalets of Heaven. \240And it is an accurate translation!!

Built 15 years ago by a Slovenian couple, the 4 guest chalets and main building overlook the most fantastic scenery and provide wonderful hiking and gastronomic opportunities.

View from our deck

Chalet

Italian trenches from WWI.

Looking at Italy from our hike

Lunch on the Veranda. \240Probably won’t have time to use the Saunas.

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May 03 2018

On the road to Rovinj, Croatia

We left the heavenly chalets Nebesa this morning with Mitja in his luxurious Peugeot Van. \240We are sad to leave the Chalets and the wonderful friendly family proprietors. \240The grandmother even did a load of wash for us, hung up the clothes to dry and did not charge us a nickel! \240Hope to come back.

Our last morning at Nebesa

The Soca river - it’s an unbelievable shade of green.

The castle built into the cliff.

The Postojna caves - 2nd largest in the world after the Mammoth caves of Kentucky. Goes on for many many km. \240You go in via a train and leave via the train and walk for about 1.5 km.

We were famished - this pizza hit the spot.

May 5 - Rovinj, Croatia - on the Adriatic coast.

Ship repair.

Our excellent guide, Maslinka.

Lot of Italian influence and lot of Italians here in Rovinj. \240The Venetians controlled this area of Istria for 500 years. Next pics are from the old town of Rovinj.

The market.

Communal drying line.

Lot of renovation and construction going - must stop by June 16 for the summer onslaught of tourists.

Heard outside the church.

Venetian cannon.

Dorado fish for lunch - scrumptious!

This woman makes handmade crochet items. \240Bought something for Ella.

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May 06 2018

Istria is Beautiful

Many small charming villages to see and enjoy today. And, the magnificent Roman amphitheater of Pula, the biggest town in Istria.

Draguc

We bought this painting from the artist.

And a photo that looks like a painting from the photographer who is Belgian but lives here in Oprtalj.

This is serious biking country.

Oprtalj

Biking map

Lunch

Black truffles

And, schnapps for after the meal.

Out of towners are buying property here.

The old chapel dating from 1600’s

An alphabet used before Croatian.

Musical festival spotlighting Basse in June in Draguc

Pula. The amphitheater

Tunnels and the underground of the amphitheater

Actual amphora found here.

Olive press

Olive oil storage

Roman map

Cart - the wheels roll in the grooves of the road. The Romans were excellent engineers!

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May 07 2018

Plitvice Lakes & Waterfalls

After a long pleasant drive from Rovinj with Guido, we arrived at Plitvice. \240And after lunch a hike through the upper lakes. \240Glorious and wonderful:

In the WC

The end

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Hotel Degenija

May 08 2018

Plitvice Day 2

Hope you are not tired of beauty and waterfalls.

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Sarajevo

May 08 2018

Sarajevo, Bosnia

This used to be a place where everyone coexisted in peace. Even in friendship. The Muslim majority with the Catholic Bosnian Croats, the Orthodox Eastern Christian bosnian Serbs and even the Jews. In fact, the Otttoman empire which controlled Sarajevo/Bosnia, welcomed the Jews expelled from Spain in 1492.

Sarajevo was a place that hosted the Winter Olympics in 1984. A place where all Yugoslavians, all Sarajeveans banded together proudly to pull off this miraculous achievement. But, after Tito’s death in 1980, things began to unravel in Yugoslavia and old divisions simmered and finally exploded in the early 90’s. During this conflict in which Serbia tried to create a greater Serbia and control great swaths of Croatia and Bosnia, Sarajevo lay under the siege of the Bosnian Serbs, who controlled the surrounding hills and were armed by the old YNF and Serbia. The city heroically withstood an almost 4 year long siege while the world including the United States did almost nothing.

Pics from the city in the valley:

Pics from tour of city by Adnan:

Reminiscent of the view from the Golan Heights, the Serbs controlled the hilltops and fired shells at will at the defenseless city below

Makeshift Muslim graveyard is visible - bodies buried under cover of darkness.

Amira and Bato, two teenage lovers, he Christian and she Muslim. Trying to escape Sarajevo to marry, they were gunned down on a bridge. \240Called the Sarajevo Romeo & Juliet. \240Heartbreaking

This is the nearby grave of a CNN reporter who first broke their story

This chart illustrate how outmanned the Sarajaveans were at the start of the conflict.

Now, the tunnel, \240Built under the airport in a little more than 4 months, it became Sarajevo’s lifeline to Bosnian supplies of food and other necessities. \240It barely kept the residents alive.

How residents obtained water from a couple of sources in the city. \240A super dangerous but essential journey.

A type of small train used in the tunnel.

Famous visitors to the tunnel.

The family that contributed their house to hide the tunnel.

We half crawled through part of the tunnel that is still accessible. \240It is very narrow and very “short”. \240You have to bend over to traverse. \240HOw was it possible to walk the full 800 meters, bent over under the weight of knapsacks? \240Hard to believe.

The Olympic bob sled track is still visible here.

A walk through the old city and lunch.

The oldest and largest mosque above.

I had a nightmare last night after visiting this museum. \240Bone chilling.

Back to our hotel

Graffiti across from Hotel Michele.

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May 10 2018

Sarajevo, Day 2. \240The Jewish View

But, first a look at the exotic Hotel Michele.

First synagogue (Sephardic). 1572. No longer in use.

The sanctuary

Former rabbis of community

Old gravestone.

Jewish cemetery

First to Smith’s were Jewish.

Eastern Orthodox Church

The Grand Hotel, Sarajevo's first. \240Jewish owner.

This Synagogue is now a cinema.

Recognize the famous Sarajavean Ladino singer? Performs still in DC area. Flory Jagoda.

Next, the Ashkenazi synagogue. \240Still in use. \240Mix of Ashkenazi and Sephardic families.

Current Hazan

Our short Sepphardic guide

Men on right. Women on left.

National museum and the Sarajevo Haggadah. Click link to learn the fascinating story..

The building is amazing

Roman mosaic.

Looks bit like mosaic found in Zippori Israel.

Found in 300 CE. Note the Menorah..

The actual Haggadah.

Lunch:

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May 12 2018

Split, Croatian coast

Best breakfast of trip at Divota hotel in Split. Very healthy. Only regret - we only had 1 opportunity to enjoy it as we had to catch early ferry to Hvar.