Dinner with Ryan at l'uliva, 25 course Umbrian meal.
Started the day with a visit to Montefalco, lunch in Bevagna
Dinner with Ryan in town, at montereggio (after walking up and down the hill and paying 25 euro for a cab). We were pleasantly surprised with the seafood platter.
Visited the town of Norcia, devastated by an earthquake in October 2016. When we couldn't get past the 'zona rossa'barricades to the main square, a happy go lucky woman named Sabrina with her little dog escorted us through the gates all the way through town to the main square and San Benedetto church. She knew everyone in town and she loved Siena.
Ate in the patio at a restaurant in a small square. Enjoyed some delicious pasta dishes (red sauce and Cingiale).
Drive through the Appenine mountains up to Casteluccio. Also devastated by the earthquake and now uninhabitable. The fields and mountains leading up to the town were beautiful.
Kept driving down the mountain on some scary roads with rocks that had fallen from earthquakes. Don't think we were supposed to be on the road as there was one point we had to move a barricade over to keep going down the hill.
Dinner with ryan at La Cucina Di San Pietro, Jacobo was our server. 7 set course meal for 40 euro (plus drinks) featuring truffles in each course.
Drive half an hour to Assisi and attended the mass at noon (in Italian) at the upper basilicata at San Francesco's church. Visited his tomb and saw relics (robe and sandals) in the lower basilica.
Walking through town, had a casual lunch of Italian flatbread sandwiches. A bit chilly and rainy, walked back through the town back to our parking at Plaza Matteoti.
Ryan decided to drive up to mount Subasai to see if there was a good view of the town. No views worth seeing so we drove back down and headed back to Trevi. Missed the Palio race but wasn't the best day to be outside anyways.
After Siena and I had a late nap, we all went to l'uliva for dinner at about 9. The owner Mauricio was great to us again. For 27.5 euros, so much food and drinks. They even made Siena some strelette pasta with pomodoro sauce and she ate so much.
Visited Spoleto and Todi. Not much to see in Todi, bigger town with lots of people and cars. After stopped by Trevi Centro so Siena could go to the park and mom could see the town. Bought some meat for mom and dad to eat at home for dinner while ryan and I went into town and ate at the old post office (vecchia poste).
Gnocchi with Gorgonzola and fresh celery, ravioli stuffed with ricotta and radicchio, in a radicchio and sweet wine sauce.
Checked out of Trevi apartment by 11. Stopped by Fontana de Clitunno so Ryan could drink the water (legend says it cures drinkers).
Visited Spello, one of my fave towns so far. So cute and charming with all of the plants and flowers hanging outside the windows.
Visited Perugia and had no walking map or info on the town, so did not enjoy it. Quite a bit town with lots of university kids.
Checked into Montepulciano air b&b
Dinner with ryan at a restaurant in town. Lovely decor, not the greatest pizza but the pastas were decent.
Drove to Montalcino and walked around, had lunch at
Drove to Bagno Reggio, a small town famous for having a Roman bath in the main square. At the Parco dei Mulini down the street, we hiked down to the pools at the bottom.
Dinner at Pane e Vino in town. Couple nice pastas, tripe and osso bucco.
Mom and dad stayed in town to walk around Montepulciano.
Ryan and I took Siena to the town of Cortona. A quaint town with one Main Street, piazza in the middle, pretty standard. We are at a small Trattoria outside, just off the main piazza. Bean soup, pasta with pork sauce (cinta senese- the Tuscan version of Cingiale) and liver and cipollini.
While walking, Ryan's wallet fell out of his pocket. Luckily a driver was behind him, beeped his horn and pointed to the wallet resting precariously on top of a sewer. Thank goodness for the kindness of that stranger, and that it did not fall through the grates of the sewer!
After we drove towards lake Trasimieno, and went to the town overlooking it, Castaglione Del Lago. Had a gelato and ryan tasted some wine. Went to the nearby winery Morami, whose wine we had tasted at La Cucina in Umbria. Only $1 euro cheaper than the wine shop.
On the way home, picked up some pizza to go with our wine, cheese and salamis. Stayed in and watched some comedy on Netflix with mom and dad.
Much needed downtime day. Stayed in for most of the morning and let Siena have a nap at noon. Researched some accommodation for the next leg of our trip, still yet to be decided.
In the afternoon, ryan, Siena and I walked through Montepulciano, stopping for some tasting at le Ricci winery dating back centuries.
Made an early reso for mom and dad to have dinner at Bottega Del Nobile. Was pouring rain on their way home. We went afterwards, had a decent dinner... notables were the Carpaccio and Ravioli with porchetta.
Drove to Civita Di Bagnoregio. Took the bus with locals close to the pedestrian bridge and walked up with Siena in a carrier. Beautiful little town surrounded by valleys.
Lunch at La Cantina Di Arianna. Great pasta and the chef was so cute with Siena.
No real dinner. Stayed home so we could search for our next place of accommodation and had leftovers.
Finally picked out a place to stay, the old pasta factory. Antico Pastifficio in Greve (chianti). Left Marco's in Montepulciano around 1pm. Made our way to Greve, which had a festival on Sunday so we had to drive around and squeeze through via dell arco to arrive at the apartment. A bit like a hotel. Quite pleased and we have a beautiful terrace to have brekkie.
Mom and dad went out to a resto and got lost coming home. Ryan and I are at the gallo Nero and it was delicious.
#sienainSiena
Drive to Siena and first visited the duomo then went for lunch at trattoria Pepei.
Ryan and I climbed up the tower in the campo. Then took pictures of Siena.
Ryan and I had dinner at La cantina and the stonate guy working there greeted us. Mama was behind the counter making pizzas. Had a good lasagne and 2 pizzas, Ryan's only complaint was the flies.
Drove to Volterra and San Gimignano. Nothing to write home about. Quite a far drive because the roads were very windy.
Best part of the day was the tripe sandwiches in Volterra.
Ryan and I went out for dinner in Piazza Mateotti. Ended up at Albergo Giovanni and were thoroughly disappointed. Waitress couldn't uncork the wine at the table and took it away. Replaced the bottle with cork sediment and brought back another already uncorked bottle. Juicebag waitet was not friendly and the food overall was mediocre.
Visited Florence. Started with a view from Piazzalle Michelangelo then found parking. Crossed over and walked to the Duomo. Terraces were too busy so ryan could not go up with mom and dad.
Went to the food market and found a great stall with seafood. They lightly floured then fried cod, shrimp and squid. So good we bought a 2nd plate. Found another stall that had lamppredotto and porcini sandwiches and ordered one.
Walked the streets to do a bit of shopping before heading home. Siena loved the bubble man playing reggae.
Mom and dad went for dinner at Gallo Nero, then we went as well, got in just in time. Had the steak fiorentina and ravioli with tripe.
Day in Chianti. Started the day with breakfast on our terrace as usual, then did some laundry (the dryer on the right barely worked!).
Went to a Carrobio winery in Panzano, set up by Marco for a private tasting session. The worker Jacobo (?) gave us a short tour of the wine cellar, then we went to a lovely private room and tasted 4 wines, including a rose, chiantico classico, chianti classico riserva and vin santo as well as olive oil.
After Marco sent us to a winery Altiero to have lunch. We had our own private table set up in a tent, in a room with garlic hanging, grapes hanging and an oven. Samuela who owned it with her husband was our hostess and she brought us crostinis, salamis and cheese and her homemade jams. After we had 2 types of pasta. She opened 3 wines during the meal, a chianti classico, reserve and their super tuscan blend. Short tour of their wine cantina afterwards. Everyone a little tipsy by then (mom very tipsy).
Ryan and I went for dinner at Il Portico restaurant, in the square. Big loud table of workers from a winery, they let us in and said the kitchen was closing in 10 minutes. We ordered a recommended garganelli pasta with sausage, onion, black truffle and a bit of panna (cream). Then had a filet steak cooked rare, with fried potato slices. Very good simple dinner.
Leave Greve and head to Lucca on our way to cinque terre. Lucca was lovely and we rented a 4 person bike and all bikes 2ce around the ramparts on top of the city. Lucca is a very bike friendly town, with a French vibe. The square in the old theatre was lovely. Had a nice sit down lunch at a paninoteca.
Made our way to cinque terre and checked into our 2 bedroom apartment by the sea. Didn’t have the best reviews online but it was good enough for our short 2 night stay.
Mom and dad went for dinner at la chiglia, nearby, but did not return home until 10, because service was slow and also they were late leaving. When Ryan and I tried to eat there they turned us away, went to a few more places on the promenade and they were all closed. Finally, on a street in the upper village a nice man, massimo, at country Tuscan let us into his restaurant as he was cleaning up. We had a complimentary plate of meats and cheeses, a tripe hamburger and the mixed grill. Tons of food and his house wine.
Saturday in cinque terre. Bought our expensive 33 euro tickets for the ferry and headed to the first town Riomaggiore. There we found out that the via dell amore path was not open, so we ended up getting back on the ferry and went straight to the last town manarola. Bought a beach blanket off a vendor and Mom, ryan and dad swam in the sea. Ryan and I also got massages from a Chinese lady on the beach.
Had a small snack at Torre Aurora, a tower they use as a terrace.
Took the ferry back to portovenere, and we both had dinner at La Chiglia. We’re very happy with the frutti Di mare, 10 different little plates.
Long travel day as we made our way to Lake Como. Stopped at auto grill for lunch on the way. Checked into Roberto Cavalli’s apartment with a wonderful view of the Lake. Did a quick evening walk around Varenna before going back to the apartment. We both had dinner at the Crotto Di Pino, literally right beside the apartment. Not the best food but the cute old man who dyed his hair and was upset with his son’s smoking was classic.
Perfect day for our private boat ride tour with Roberto Cavalli.
Lunch first at Platano.
Mom and dad also had dinner there.
Ryan and I are at albergo milano.
Ferry ride to Bellagio.
Late lunch at the artsy place.
Dinner at home bbq.
Drive to Menaggio.
All shad dinner at Platano, only customers in the restaurant.
Long hard travel day from Como to Milan airport, fly to Catania on easyJet then drive to Plemirrio near Syracuse to our lovely villa.
Paninos on the plane.
Dinner at Onda blu.
Love our villa hosted by Sabrina in Plemmirio. Went to Ortigia in the am tosee their fish market and walk around the town. Went home and everyone took naps. Everyone went for a family dinner at Onda Blu Isola, the closer location located on the sea and overlooking Ortigia.
Drove down to Noto to see their baroque architecture. Only 2 main roads to see. After went to aqua beach club in SAN Lorenzo. Ate a couple big salads.
Went to L’ufficio for dinner in siracuse. Very busy night in the city as it was Saturday night.
Hop on hop off bus in Ortigia. Went to the tomei dei cappucinni and ended in the arcealogical park where we saw the ear of dionysus.
Lunch at the cafe and for dinner we picked up seafood from Onda Blu and ate oysters, shrimp at home.
Drove to Catania because it was a windy day. Went on the hop on bus for 50 euros total, then took it to Aci Trezza, where we got out and then had lunch by the waterfront. The bus came too early so we missed it and had to wait an hour for another.
Driving home, ryan stopped at the macelleria and bought horse meat.
Stayed home for dinner and ate the horse.
Windy again so decided against a trip to Agrigento. Went to the Lido (beach) arenella amd then Fontane Bianche. Was not impressed with Fontane Bianche, but we enjoyed our paninis in the beach.
Mom and dad had seafood for dinner and Ryan and I went to Ortigia. Ate at Sicilia in Tavola and had some seafood.
Siena’s first birthday.
Dad and Ryan went out to buy seafood and groceries for dinner. Windy day so ryan could not arrange a boat ride to Ortigia. We tried to go to la Fornace for lunch but it was closed. So instead headed for the city and Ryan and Siena and I went on a short boat tour of ortigia while Mom and dad went shopping. Went home and Ryan made a seafood dinner with 3 fish and prawns. Had to clean up and pack for departure tomorrow.
Started our drive for Agrigento, stopped at the outlet mall on the way.
Valley of the temples. Took a cab to the end and walked the 2km downhill back to the parking. Ate our big paninos in front of the temple of Zeus.
Quick stop at the scale dei turchi (Turkish steps), kept driving for Palermo.
Got to our hotel grand hotel in Palermo, great location. Lost Siena’s pink shoe. Returned car at Hertz and walked back.
Mom and dad went out quickly for rice balls.
Ryan and I had dinner at Gigi mangia. Dad cranky we took so long.
Travel day
Had to check out ofSabrina’s lovely villa and made our way west toPalermo. Stopped at Sicily outlet mall and spent an hour and a bit there. Then kept driving to Agrigento to see the valley of the temples. Ate our big paninos while looking at the 2nd temple. Drove to the Scala dei turche to see the Turkish steps. It was just okay.
Finally arrived in Palermo. Big bustling city and checked into our hotel, grand hotel Garibaldi. Great location, amongst all the high end shopping. Went with Ryanto return the cargo Hertz and unfortunately we were just a bit late so had to pay an extra 25 euro.
Walked back to the hotel and picked up a few rice balls. Mom and dad went out for about an hour and a half. Dad thinks Mom was almost pickpocketed. He came to watch Siena while rya and I had dinner at Gigi Mangia.
Ryan went for a walk with Siena to let her nap. Got the hop on hop off bus and got out st the fontana. Walked to the cathedrals then went for lunch at a small family run resto. Took the bus back then got on the blue line for another ride. Walked on the pedestrian street and Ryan bought sunglasses.
Mom and dad went for dinner at Gigi, then we took a cab and ate at a fancy expensive resto. \240Walked back 20 minutes.
Last day in Palermo. Mom and dad used our tour bus tickets then Ryan took Siena for a walk while I packed up. We all met him outside the market Balloro, so we could see the chiesa de Jesu, with amazing detail inside. Ate at a bustling little resto in the market, mostly fried fish.
Split up to walk back, had a gelato and went to catch our bus. A taxi was the same price so took that instead.
In Palermo airport there was a choir singing and orchestra.
Arrived in Rome at the golden tulip hotel. Pleasantly surprised, very nice modern hotel with a great restaurant. We all had dinner together, pasta and pizzas.
Siena sleeping in the shower.