Good morning day 8 in Oxford! Today we head to Salisbury. For breakfast I a bacon and egg roll with a cafe au lait.
We lefties the hotel and sat through traffic on the way to Christ Church College of Oxford University, refounded by Henry the 8th and the school that Lewis Carroll (Charles Dodgson) based his Alice (the Dean’s daughter) and Wonderland off of. The college is home to the Christ Church Chapel/Cathedral, which is the only church in the world to be both a chapel and a cathedral of the Diocese.
Originally founded in 710 by St. Frideswise, following his death in 727, the priory was ordered for closure in 1524 and reopened as the Cardinal College by Cardinal Wolsey in 1525 and finally reopened by King Henry VIII as the final Christ Church in 1546.
The heart of the college is the Great Hall, which is lead to by way of the Hall Staircase. Ornamented with fan vaulted ceilings, this famous staircase has been the site of many movies including The Golden Compass, and Harry Potter. In Harry Potter it is the staircase the students climb to meet Professor McGonagall at their first day of term before the Sorting Ceremony and also the scene in the Chamber of Secrets, where Ron and Harry are caught attempting to sneak into the castle after their flying car incident by Snape.
The Great Hall is probably the most famous college dining hall in the world. It is the life of the college and is the house of two dinner services: an informal one at 6:20pm and a formal one with gowns at 7:20pm. The Hall is the largest PreVictorian college Hall and seats 300. Home to Charles Dodgson for 47 years, under the pen name Lewis Carroll aspects of the Hall influenced Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Alice is based on the Dean’s daughter during Dodgson’s time there, Alice Liddell, who is immortalized in not only his works but also the stained glass window above one of the two fireplaces along with the White Rabbit. The fireplace also holds the inspiration for Alice’s long neck growth in the first book.
The Christ Church Chapel/Catherdal was constructed between 1170 and 1190. The church is not only the college’s chapel, but also the Cathedral of Oxford. Ornamented with a rib vaulting, the ceiling of the quire splays from 12 lanterns, seemingly suspended in air, connected by lierne ribs that create eight-point stars: it looks like a spider. The High Altar houses the Bishops seat and a rose window above a statue of crucified Jesus.
The Cathedral is also home to the Latin Chapel, the shrine to St. Frideswide. It houses the relics of St. Frideswide, the patron saint of Oxford because he founded the original priory.
The Quire is specifically beautiful because of its ornate wood detailing. We were honored enough to sing “The Lord Bless You and Keep You” and “The Randolph-Macon Alma Mater” in this space. Coincidentally, we ran into the other RMC travel trip to England, who listened to us while we sang. The world is a small place, thanks #RMCTheWorld.
Across the Chapel is the Tom Quad, named for the clock, whose bell’s name is Great Tom. The Great Tom at 9:00 rings 101 times, which in early days signaled curfew for the students for return to the safety of the college’s walls.
Following our time at Christ Church College, Caroline, Tori, Jordan and I went to lunch at a local tavern. I had cream of vegetable soup with cibbatta bread. 😋
We then met up with our coach to drive to Salisbury to see the Salisbury Cathedral. While on the drive Tori, Jacob, and Dustin presented on the Role of Women in the Anglican Church.
Tori gave us an overview of how in Anglican churches it is uncommon for women to participate in singing or any aspect of worship for that matter. It was not until the Baroque period that female sopranos became used for oratorios and opera, but even that was controversial. The Romantic era gave rise to the contralto, and women suddenly had a place in music. In the 20th century the use of females became more practical as a result of changes in work schedules: when a male was unavailable women would be hired in their stead.
Jacob gave us an overview of accomplishments by females in the church. Salisbury Cathedral bu far has the best achievement of having instituted a all girl choir in 1991. In contrast St. Paul’s didn’t get a female alto until 2017. Sarah MacDonald, however has been serving as Selwyn Colleges music director since 1999.
Dustin then gave us an insight into the most exciting advancement, the addition of girl choristers to Salisbury in 1991. They had their first performance in October and the idea was created by Dr. Richard Seal. They celebrated it on its 20th year reunion.
We then traveled to Salisbury Cathedral to both tour and perform an evensong in their incredible space.
The exterior of the cathedral is itself quite impressive. The cloisters are marked by Gothic archways and rib vault ceilings. In my opinion it was almost more beautiful than the inside.
We entered into the church and took in the beauty of its 13th century architecture. Built between 1220 and 1258, Salisbury reflects both Gothic and Norman architecture. Originally all the Vaults in the ceiling were ornately painted. The whole scene is incredible; the nave looks onto the quire and a beautiful stained glass window.
Our tour guide explained that the building in made of three stones: marble, sandstone, and hard stone. He lead us to the world’s oldest working mechanical clock. Built in 1386, the clock has no face and tells time by the ringing against metal.
We wondered towards the Font, which is by far the most beautiful part of the church. Built in 2008 for the 750th anniversary, it reflects the view of the whole church and it almost as still as glass. It is actually used for all baptisms of the cathedral.
On each side of the font cross around quotes from Isaiah, including my favorite bible verse, “I have called you by name, you are mine.”
He led us to a the spire next, which was built in 1310-1330. The spire is 404ft in height and is the tallest spire in England. However, it is quite crooked, which Christopher Wren attempted to fix in the later 14th century. The distance between the center of the tower is almost a full 3 inches off from the top of the tower.
We viewed the quire and high altar, which was the most significant part of the tour because this is where we would later perform with the Salisbury choristers. The pews in which they sit are specifically designed to hold their music and they read by candle light, as evensong is done in dim lighting. They bow to the clergy as the pass towards to highaltar that looks out onto the stained glass window done for in 1980 to commemorate the Prisoners of Conscience Window and the Church of England’s dedication to Amnesty International.
We then wandered to the Chapter House, which unlike many other Cathedrals was actually built after the church. The Chapter House is the meeting place of the bishops, clergy, and dean of the cathedral. Currently it houses the most significant Western Historical Document, the Magna Carta. Written under King John’s reign in 1215 only 4 copies of the Magna Carta survive. The one in best preservation in the one given to Salisbury for protection in 1215. The Magna Carta written in liturgical Latin with not capitals or punctuation is the oldest document of civil rights and is the basis of the American constitution. It is a testament to power for the people put into the correct hands.
Here is a copy of Salisbury’s original (we were unable to photograph it because it might damage it).
We then had some time to wander the cathedral on our own, here is a plaque to honor the first group of girl choristers for the 20th anniversary.
Before rehearsal we got to hear Austin play on the organ. I have no words for the beauty caused by the acoustics.
We were honored that night to sing with the choir and THE GIRLS for evensong; I felt so unworthy of being in their presence. Rehearsal is about an hour before the service and is actually performed in partial uniform. I have never attended a more professional rehearsal, it was astounding to watch 8-14 year olds have more decorum than I. The choir master David Hall, was very direct and structured the rehearsal very effectively. I made sure that our entrances and exits especially on the Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis were conhesive. I was impressed how he was able to correct our mistake within one try. I was astounded by this. Also the girls sounded like angels... one of them looked at me in pure confusion when I sang an incorrect pitch. How can they be so aware of pitch that they can hear me above all the rest?
Following rehearsal we got into our lines for processional. In rehearsal we had practiced processing and recessing, which was quite intimidating and I looked awful. It is traditional for the Vicor to pass the choir and give a small prayer before procession, although extremely formal, I loved how the clergy asks and encourages the choir to perform their best. It is very cool to see the unity between the choir and clergy, I actually felt God amongst us planting his grace of music upon us. The processional was terrifying, but also beautiful as the congregation watches the choir enter and enjoys their presence in solemn reverence.
After the processional, we were honored enough to sit behind the choir and then sit in the cushioned seats of the clan crests. I was moved by just being in the setting. The congregation was casually dressed in jeans and coats. My best guess was that the people in attendance were frequent attendees. The service began with prayer and then the psalms, which the choir sings. The congregation sat in quiet reflection in prayer or reading from the Common Book of Prayer, while the choir sang the pslams. I was amazed that the girls and men were able to shift so seemlessly from each verse to the next with only the Recitor singing a call very out of tune. They had no pitch, they just began to sing out of the air. The girls’ voices just floated above the quire up to the ceiling like air. It was incredible.
We then were honored enough to sing along with their choir for the Magnificat and Nunc Dimittis (“Standford in C”) following the recitation of the Old Testament reading from Isaiah and the New Testament reading from Acts. The sound we could produce under their leadership was incredible. I was most impressed by our entrances and exits, where a loud and sterling sound escaped our lips. The male alto infront of me, was able to produce a sound no female could make, it was extremely high in tone and sounded as though I boy was singing. I loved the sound that we all made at the beginning of the Nunc Dimittis, because I don’t think our choir has ever made such an impressive piano/soft sound.
We then were honored to listen to the choir sing the prayers. The cohesion, they sang with was so beautiful it almost made me cry 😭. I also observed the congregation kneeling or sitting bowed completely settled into the presence of God the choir welcomed.
After prayers we performed the Anthem, “Bethlem Down”, written Peter Warlock set to a poem by Bruce Blunt. Dr. Ryder was kindly asked by David Hall to conduct the piece. I love the silent melody the words sweep through. Also I appreciated the soft sound we were able to produce, even with over 30 people singing on the fourth verse. It was so delicate and the congregation was so still and calm that one could have heard a pin drop.
There was then an exiting prayer including a singing of the Lord’s pray by the choir. I cried during the prayer when the reverend praised the Lord for granting the church the ability to hear to music of the young girls’ voices. You could hear the appreciation for the history of the group and I also felt honored to be raised up as a joy for the church.
We then recessed and stood in our pairs as the clergy passed us and said a prayer for our service to the evensong. It was an awe inspiring experience.
After service we walked to dinner at Bill’s. We ate mushroom soup, bangers (Cumberland sausage) and mash, with custard icecream. It was delicious.
We then headed to our hotel for sleep. Good night 😴 Salisbury!