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Hilton Madison Monona Terrace

A rainy day in Madison, the end of a long week.

The Capitol building, from my hotel window 7:32AM

At least I always eat well here—the chefs are surprisingly good in this town. It’s fairly easy to find good ingredients, well prepared, which is what eating well is to me. Sure, I appreciate the art of good plating and the drama of inventive presentation, but take fine ingredients, give them to a skilled hand and a keen mind who understands not to overwrought them, and I’m happy.

Wednesday night I was happy at Merchant. The menu changes fairly frequently, taking advantage of the seasonal offerings. They tout locally sourced meats and vegetables and their chef, while not mind-blowingly creative, puts together thoughtful dishes. Wednesday was seared breast of chicken, an odd, bland, faro purée which had the consistency of what I imagine wallpaper paste to be, a bit of perfectly and lightly sautéed kale, and a garnish of mixed greens. The chicken was moist and flavorful, and the greens—especially the occasional pea shoot—complimented the meat perfectly.

Merchant