Off to an early start with a morning arrival in Boston. We took the train into Harvard Square and found our way to the Harvard Art Museums. After stashing our bags we met up with Meredith and Jeff for a nice lunch. Never regret a layover in Boston but the departure was delayed over two hours and the crowded airport left few options for food and drink. Waiting is the worst.

Arrived in Paris late morning, huge lines at the airport but found our way to the train and arrived at the hotel near the Sorbonne around noon. The plaza in front of the hotel has nice cafes where we found coffee, juice and an enormous charcuterie to hold us over. We wandered about the neighborhood filled with bookstores taking in the Museum Cluny and checking out the hotel where we honeymooned 38 years ago. Dined at a wonderful bistro that has been around since 1791. A couple of wine stops later and we were spent.

Our day of wandering Paris started with coffee and pastries in the Latin Quarter. Soon learned the train we were looking for was in repair so blocks later and endless underground connections we managed to get “close” to our destination but had to purchase a paper map to find our way. Villa Roche by Le Corbusier followed by lunch and the Louis Vuitton museum by Frank Gehry, on to the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysee and we were done. 10 miles of walking was plenty.

Arrived in Casablanca before noon. After working our way through Customs, misunderstanding the train schedule and finally taking a taxi in from the airport we arrived at the hotel. The decision to walk to Hassan II Mosque wasn’t the best as Google routed us through a ghetto busy with Saturday markets and food stalls. Some confusion at the Mosque but managed to get inside. Massive space with mezzanines either side of huge gallery where the carved wood roof can be opened to the sky. The lower level is filled with marble, lotus-shaped fountains for washing before prayer- separate areas for men and women, of course. The spaces are all decorated with carved wood, detailed plaster, and zellij tile work. A small bite at Scala on the edge of the Medina rounded out the day. Casa is not quite the modern city it is purported to be with sidewalks in ruins, and buildings in sad need of repair.

“Wouldn't you know we're riding on the Marrakesh Express, they're taking me to Marrakesh. All abooooard the traaaaaain.” Our travel companions included a man from Oman and another from Niger along with a Moroccan couple. There was no conversation.

Once in Marrakech we made our way to the Medina entering at Bab Doukkala. Finding the riad required some assistance from the locals as Google wasn’t close to correct. Our riad is a nice place with a modern interior although still Moroccan quirky. Headed to Djema el Fna to join our food tour, winding our way through the souks which were crowded with shoppers. A few wrong turns and a little backtracking but we found our way. The food tour led us through the back streets of the Medina to small places where we sampled tajina, roast lamb, sheep’s head, olives, vegetable couscous, doughnuts, msemen, fresh juice, and pastries. The tour included visiting the underground fire pits that heat the water for the public baths and the ovens where they bake the bread. Afterwards Djema was even more crowded than before but the streets to the riad were eerily dark and shuttered.

Marrakech Day 2: checking out the main tour stops-Ben Youssef Madrasa, Almoravid Koubba, Bahia Palace and a museum or two. Getting anywhere is half the fun as the narrow streets are largely unmarked and filled with pedestrians, bikes, motorcycles and donkey carts- not to mention cats. Made our way outside the walls long enough to grab a Casablanca beer on a roof deck and buy some wine in a grocery. Had a great traditional Moroccan dinner in an old riad with many courses and many plates of food all served with local wine.

Wandering the Medina with no destination in mind really made it feel like a vacation. We bantered with shop keepers and cafe workers, all friendly and helpful, not aggressive or pushy. Visited the ruins of the Badi Palace where storks reside along the old ramparts calling to each other across the ruined riad. Le Jardin Secret with its exotic and native plants is a beautiful, quiet respite from the bustle of the Medina. Finished the evening with wine and spiced olives on the roof terrace of our riad. Perfect.

Took the bus to Essaouira driving past dry, rocky farms of olives, and a multitude of other crops. The argan farmers had goats tied in the argan trees for tourists’ entertainment, but sadly not the choice of the poor goats. Arrived in Essaouira late afternoon and wound our way out to the ocean along the old ramparts of the fortress. Hundreds of fishing boats were hauling in fresh catches of every conceivable fish including huge eels and shark. As we were due west of the Georgia coast, it seemed fitting to touch the other side of the Atlantic.

Essaouria at low tide exposed a huge beach of soft, white sand arching across the bay- camels on the beach were a fun surprise too. We ventured back into the Medina and explored the back streets where craftsmen were working and locals went about their day. Weavers allowed us inside for a closer look. The local spice market, fresh produce stalls, and live animal vendors were an interesting contrast to the busy tourist area.

Returned to Marrakech and flung ourselves into the Medina. We soon became caught up following a Berber man who works the Berber tanneries on Fridays. Telling us about places along the way, we went deep into non-tourist areas. We toured the tannery before being led, of course, to the local leather store. It was still great fun and we talked to some very nice people. Had wine and tapas that night at a place in Gueliz - nice change.

Started the day at Jardin Marjorelle- a beautiful, but crowded, garden with brilliant blue structures throughout. We returned to the Medina afterwards on a quest to find the carved plaster tiles we had seen for sale the first day. At a museum gift shop a man gave us directions to where to find a man-a blacksmith- who made these. We found ourselves in a metal forging area with sparks flying about. Two men tried to help and led us somewhere else where a third man proceeded to lead us somewhere else again. Alas, no tiles, but what a wild ride.

We were met at the riad early for our ride to the Atlas Mountains. The cab driver picked up Abdelatif, our trek guide, about an hour later and dropped us off nearby. We soon met up with Hassan, the muleteer and Smeesha, the mule. Not far in it started to rain intermittently and the wind blew in powerful gusts. We struggled on through cedars, oaks, and junipers but the trail was rocky and slow to navigate. Olive trees hung over the trail at times filled with ripe olives. Farms grew every fruit and vegetable \240imaginable. We lunched on egg tajine in a small village before pushing on.

Abdelatif opted to shorten the trek by diverting us into his small village on a hill-Tighfist- where we stayed the night with his family. His son Hamad toured us through the village where young boys played with homemade hoops of plastic conduit. Abdelatif, the youngest of eleven siblings, lives with his mother, wife, and three children in the home his family has lived in for generations. The wind battered the shutters all night and blew the door to our room open. We awoke to roosters, the call to prayer and sheep being taken to the fields. Quite the experience.

The second day of our trek- sunny and 60s- \240took us over tree covered hills along stone and gravel paths until we broke for lunch. Abdeltalif set out a blanket and brought tea while Hassan cooked the Tajine. We lounged in the sun before heading out again. The trail followed the side of a hill for another hour with winds pounding us in intervals. We finished the trek along a gravel road with views of Mt. Toubkal in the distance and gusting winds in our faces.

We arrived late afternoon in the Berber village of Asif Zakzaun that has been here for centuries. The town is nestled in a valley on the side of a hill along a small stream at around 5,500’ elevation. The villagers are mostly goat herders and farmers. We were greeted with tea and walnuts followed a short time later by more tea, (cow) cheese and olives. Surprisingly in spite of all the goats, no one milks them - “goat milk is only for baby goats”. The people here live an incredibly spartan life with the children playing in the streets with old soccer balls, sticks, and rocks. There are satellite dishes on some of the rooftops though many don’t have connections anymore. Paul became very popular when he decided to hand out his mints to some girls, however, some thought it was very small chalk. (Flies not shown for clarity)

Last leg of the trek started after breakfast and initially the trail followed the river beyond the town with terraced fields either side growing onions, alfalfa, squash and more. The trail soon started upwards across broken rocks and stones and continued an ascent for nearly 2,000 vertical feet in anout 2 hours. I rode Smeesha for a bit but it was stressful for both of us and I got off. The trail then followed a river bed but continued up until after we stopped for tea. The descent along the river was difficult as it was rocky and uneven, sometimes even walking through piles of goat dung as we crossed a farm. At one point the trail was pink rock on one side of the valley and green on the other. We finally reached a fork in the river where we stopped for lunch of tinned sardines with chopped tomatoes and onions. As we said our goodbyes to Hassan and Smeesha we learned the river we needed to cross had swelled to a point that we had to remove our shoes and roll up our pants to cross. Abdelatif helped us across the fast moving water and we made our way- uphill of course- to our waiting taxi back to Marrakech. 30 miles of trekking and we were spent.

We reurned to Marrakech around 5pm. A shower never felt better. Along the trek we had passed villages where we saw school buildings with numbers and boxes drawn on them. We learned these were how the villages held elections. Villagers were given ballots with candidates’ pictures, names, and a number on them. Since most of the people couldn’t read, the numbers were how they identified their choices. They would take turns making a mark in the box for the number matching their choice. We were still not clear on how the whole process played out, but it was interesting how everyone was able to participate.

We headed off with our driver Ali toward the 7,200’ pass at Tizi n’Ticha. The road has recently been widened making the switchbacks and cliff side turns far safer. We would our way into Telouet to visit the ruined kasbah. Most of the rambling structure has collapsed but a main hall and reception area remain. The detailed zellij tile work, beautiful wood ceilings, and intricately carved plaster hint at what the kasbah once was. A guide was quick to tell visitors that General Patton had visited the kasbah in the 40’s- he wasn’t exactly there on vacation of course.

After lunch we toured Ait Ben Haddou with our guide Mohammed. He told us that in the off-season, as during the pandemic, he plays in the band Folk Spirit, creating music in the Berber language. The ksar, or castle, has been occupied since around the 11th century. Many of the structures were built much later and the whole site is in continuous repair and restoration. A single kasbah still sits inside the walls and a mosque and synagogue still remain in at least partial use. Jews and Berbers lived together in the ksar since the beginning (although their cemeteries are separate). Only 4 families still live full time within the ksar though efforts are being made to encourage more people to take up residence. We watched an artist create a painting with tea and saffron watercolors. The lightly painted paper is held over a flame and the colors darken to create an amazing image. The drive on from there to the Rose Valley was like the US desert southwest with orange buttes and rugged terrain.

Our guide, Ismael, from Ait Albi village is the middle child of 8. He led us into Dades Gorge first from one side and then around the other. The rock formations- some known as Monkey Fingers- were amazing. We found a place several hours in to stop for tea and Ismael made a fire and added fresh thyme to the pot. The tea cooked on the hot embers. We sipped tea before heading out into the dry river bed to make our way back. Kasbah ruins appeared along the path as we approached the village. The kasbahs dated to around the mid 1700’s and have been abandoned for decades. Ismael picked ripe black figs for us from the trees and made camels from palm fronds as gifts. Ali met us and drove us up to the end of the valley to see the twisting road famous for road testing.

We started the day exploring Todra Gorge. The gorge narrows to around 40’ with 500’ high walls of stone either side. Rock climbers, scarf vendors, nomads, and tourists all mixed together. After a Berber pizza lunch we arrived in Merzouga, the gateway to Erg Chebbi, a stretch of desert where tent camps abound and camel is the standard means of transportation. A night under the stars enhanced by Gnawa music and good food.

Sunrise in the desert and back on the camels for the return trip. Long day of driving ahead but sitting in a car feels nice after the camel rides.

Arrived last night in Fez. We are definitely not in Kansas anymore! Assad, our walking tour guide took us through back streets, souks, and craftsmen’s workshops to get our bearings on the Medina. We viewed the Chouara Tannery from a few floors up where the aroma is not as intense, but the sight of fresh hides arriving in a truck from the slaughterhouse left little to the imagination.. Without the motorcycles that are so common in Marrakech the Medina seems far easier to navigate and in spite of the crowds is less intimidating as well. Dined on the rooftop of a nearby riad owned by a friend of Colin and Julie- beautiful evening.

Fes, Day 2, struck out on our own to find the few sites we missed the day before and linger some in places we passed along the way. We found a lovely museum, a restored palace, and an old palatial home in near ruins. Our favorite find, however, was a plaster carver working on a large decorative wall in a small, empty retail space. He was nearly done and kindly let us watch him work. A fascinating skill and beautiful work.

Fes, Day 3, feels comfortable here, not the temperature but the place. Took a cab to the Borj Nord Museum to start our day. Fascinating old fort and great views of the Medina. Merenid Tombs were sunny and hot at midday and the surrounding hillside was covered with drying goat skins. Strolled back through the Medina shopping and eating along the way. Best dessert yet at lunch - phyllo dough pastry filled with peanut paste and orange water, chocolate, and ice cream. Mmm.

We piled into a van after breakfast for a visit to Volubilis. The beauty of the rolling countryside en route was tempered by the odd conversation of our fellow travelers- older American brothers from Maryland, one now an expat living in Tangier. Opted to forego the guide at the Roman ruins as the way was marked and we both know how to read. The site was the North African capital of the Roman Empire around 200-300 AD and was occupied by various Berber groups into the 11th century. The mosaic tile floors in the former homes are still well preserved and rather amazing.

Meknes was our next stop of the day. Sadly we were not informed in advance that the most prominent sites in Meknes were under major restoration and have been since 2019. The guide Sharif was nothing if not thorough and demanded our attention like an aggravated school teacher. Another lecture, another mosque, another souk…beautiful, but enough.

Last day in Fes, spent wandering about the back alleys discovering local markets and craftsmen. Nice day for shopping too. Great rooftop dinner at an elegant riad with Moroccan wine and views of the Medina. I will miss the Bab Boujloud and the rooftop view from our riad at breakfast. Hate to leave.

Arrived in Rabat by train and emerged from the station into a clean, tree-lined boulevard of lovely buildings all with a cosmopolitan feel. There is a noticeable lack of the hustlers and donkey carts of Fez and Marrakech. Vendors everywhere are selling books on the street instead of souvenirs. The old Kasbah area is now a collection of pricey homes, riads and galleries. The 10th century Hassan tower of the unfinished mosque is a striking contrast to the newly constructed performing arts center nearby and the looming Mohammed VI high-rise under construction. This is a city an American could live in.

Arrived in Tangier by high-speed train and took a taxi to the Medina. The city is built on hills along the coast. In contrast to Fes and Marrakech it is predominantly white with colorful accents. The architecture of its early heyday is still evident in art deco and colonial architecture. The Medina has second floor windows and balconies overlooking the souks. The huge beach could be California if it weren’t for the camels and horses.

Last day in Morocco, decided to forego traveling about and just enjoy being in Tangier. The half-Ironman event in Tangier was today and the streets along the waterfront were crowded with bicycles, runners and spectators. Visited the American Legation, the first US Embassy, as Morocco was the first nation to recognize the United States as a country in 1777. Beautiful and interesting place.

We emerged from the Les Halles Metro station to find a sunny, fall, Halloween day in Paris. The streets were filled with shoppers, diners, tourists and a sprinkling of costumed kids. Walked about some “2nd” area sites and just soaked in the difference from where we had been. It seemed nearly every street cafe was crowded with folks drinking beer and wine in the middle of the day.

A day of leisure in Paris is a thing of joy. We had no plans, which was good since the museums appear to be closed on Tuesdays. Found a man making small paintings on Pont Neuf and bought 2 (I did not argue with him on the price, Colin). Managed to make the last group allowed in to see Sainte-Chapelle. This was someplace we had missed on our first visit here so it was fun to see it at last. Great dinner, too much wine, too many steps up to our apartment (89)!

Boston in November can be beautiful. Warm sunny skies, fall color, and cool nights. Best part is seeing Meredith and Jeff and enjoying good food and drink together.