1
Dorsett City, London

Day 1

Hello, London!

Maddy traveled from Berlin and I from San Francisco to meet in the place where it happened in 1999 (Maddy’s birth in London that is!)

This last UK section of her graduation trip continues on after 2 weeks of travel to Paris, Nice, Cassis, and Berlin with middleschool BFF Celia Strumpf.

Yesterday afternoon was the first time I’ve seen Maddy since our Colorado visit with Dad post-graduation. She was sporting a new chic Berlin haircut and thrifted Euro shirt and came bearing gifts. #adultingglowup

We took a brisk walk to St. Paul’s for Evensong and sat with some awe amid glimmering mosaics, Latin chant, and impressive organ fugues—before dinner at the The Counting House for pies and ale and a walk across Tower Bridge. Lots of fun hearing about Maddy’s adventures abroad and reacquainting myself with this beautiful storied place

Flesh of my flesh

Clickable video: Evensong and “whispering arch dome” at St. Paul’s Cathedral (with thanks to Sir Christopher Wren)

The Counting House…they brew their own lager. Highly recommend the “tasting board”with a flight of ales and mini pies!

Tower Bridge. It has a certain gravitas, but we think Brooklyn Bridge more than measures up.

2
13 Trinity St

Day 2

Oxford, here we come!

A bite to eat at the ubiquitous Pret a Manger, a short trip by the GWR train from Paddington Stn and we’re transported to literary Oxford: creative home to some of my favorite authors, including CS Lewis and JRR Tolkien.

Our luggage storage, via Radical Storage app, was located in an Indian restaurant where a very nice family took our bags to some back room all for the modest sum of 12.60£. Apparently this is what luggage storage looks like in Europe—a lovely side hustle for trustworthy shopkeepers!

Rain was forecast but held off, so we were able bike to The Perch, a family-friendly watering hole in the Oxford countryside for a juicy cheese burger, ginger beer, and the requisite pint of lager.

Next stop: the trifecta of the Bodeleian Library, Radcliffe Camera (Latin for room), and Trinity College. Along the way warm street crepes were had and a charity shop (thrift store y’all!) and Blackwell book emporium visited. If only we had more luggage space to accommodate our excessive book appetites!

Then on to a sweet Airbnb on Trinity Steet for a little R&R.

Paddington…no bear to be found

Surprise photo. Moms are great this way.

My happy place

Dangerous mid-ride photo along a sleepy country lane.

The Perch

He’s not wrong but his wife might have a different opinion.

Sun, bikes, beer and this kid. ❤️

Clickable video! The medieval heart of Oxford: Broad Street—where architect Christopher Wren’s genius first found expression in the Sheldonian Theater.

Oxford Divinity School, built 1427-83, site of the Hogwart’s infirmary in The Philosophers Stone movie.

Audio tour of the quadrangle to the Bodeleian aka world’s largest academic library. I think I feel a research-heavy novel coming on…

Radcliffe Camera, first circular library, funded by John Radcliffe—physician to the stars (King Wm. III until 1699).

3
Upper Slaughter

Day 3

To Upper Slaughter in the Cotswolds!

Meet the Eurasian blackbird—today’s alarm clock!

If you know me, you know that over the pandemic I became a tiny bit of a bird nerd. I’m fairly terrible at identification, but Merlin ID is helping me to develop some mindfulness and an ear for local avifauna.

“Pay attention. Be astonished. Tell about it.” \240 \240 \240- Mary Oliver

Mary Oliver’s practice is totally catching and (hopefully!) informs this travelogue.

Time to rise and shine. I’ll add to this journal throughout the day. Take good care, beloveds!

Continued…

We enjoyed a lingering morning in our little Oxford flat with a plan to visit the Magdalene College Botanic Gardens.

Stymied by a dearth of working city rental bikes, we gamely hopped on electric scooters for a helmetless/ hair-raising ride, dodging double decker buses, local bike and pedestrian traffic, and delivery lorries. Once safely landed, we agreed the adventure was complete madness and swore, “Never again!”

By contrast the Botanic Gardens were a healing tonic, offering views of historic campus buildings, the Thames and punts, visiting uniformed school children, and plots of medieval folk medicines that should really be included in a novel at some point.

I won’t tell you about Maddy’s encouragement to attempt scaling a wrought iron fence in order to make a lunch reservation…or the nice parks employee who caught me in the act and offered to unlock the gate so we could pass through. (There’s nothing to see here folks.)

We took tea at The Folly—an apt place to eat if ever there was one— then gathered up our gear, picked up the rental car and tested our luck (and mobile wifi) on narrow lanes and confusing roundabouts en route to our lodgings: The Chapel, a tiny stone croft in the historic village of Upper Slaughter on the River Eye.

Fish and chips and a ploughman’s board (think meats, poached things, cheese and a biscuit) at The Kingham Ploughman brought our long day to a close.

Maddy’s sitting next to me winding down with the Ozarks (dark TV drama) while I watch the fading embers of our wood burning stove and muse on our day. It is well with my soul.

A bunch o punts (the scientific term for such a grouping?)

The Botanic Gardens, created in 1620, are the oldest in Great Britain and one of the oldest physic gardens in the world.

Maddy visits the rainforest biome in one of the glasshouses.

The garden walk was Maddy’s idea: since so much of her previous two weeks were cityscapes, nature has been calling.

The Folly, Thames-side

Essential tea time!

We have no idea what this is about, but we like it.

Happy blooms, happy people

Front door to a burbling stream and a Cotswold jaunt. The local church bells keep time for us!

More photos tomorrow of the village, trails, church, and countryside…

4
2 Lower Farm Cottages, Upper Slaughter, Cheltenham GL54 2JB, UK

Day 4

More time in the country!

I woke up to sunlight, a tapestry of birdsong, and the vestiges of a humorous dream just at the edges of memory—featuring a baker, farmhouse wife, two delivery boys and a village building inspector. Clearly this place evokes Jan Karon’s Mitford series!

I pulled on a jumper, slipped on sandals, and walked the edges of the village to count church bells, explore public footpaths, record birdsong, and revel in the morning light and “the temple of my adult aloneness.” (with a nod to the poetry of David Whyte)

The O Brother Where Art Thou sound track accompanied me (especially Big Rock Candy Mountain) as I took notes on the place names affixed to different buildings. The area is so remote that there are no street names, so Airbnb hosts provide geographic coordinates of latitude and longitude along with local landmarks to direct guests. These “addresses” include Lower Farmhouse, Brookside Cottage, Cambrays Farm, River House, 1 Rose Row and 2 &4 The Square. Our cottage was previously the site of a “Primitive Methodist Chapel” built in 1885, thus the address is The Chapel next to the Lower Farmhouse in Upper Slaughter.

When Maddy woke I made some Tetley’s (the ubiquitous tea of middle-class Brittania) with milk and sugar, and we took our mugs brookside to dangle feet and chat about themes that came up in The Dallas Buyers Club, a movie we streamed/loved from a few nights ago.We rallied late but drove to Moreton-in-Marsh for the Cotswold’s biggest outdoor market, catering to sweet penshioners and deal-seekers (but not so much discerning college grads), and then followed on to tourist-friendly Chipping Camden for shopping and protein.

Now home for naps and soon an evening walkabout the village to check out the cemetery of the medieval St. Peter’s (dating to the 12th century) and soak up the final rays of light before heading to our next pub dinner at the King’s Head Inn.

Evening conversation as we reflect on our day and our lives is always a highlight. Tonight’s topics included the role of unnamed women in Scripture and the harm of capitalism and toxic productivity culture. Naturally.

Photos of The Chapel, 1: tiny but charming

The Chapel, 2: check out the crazy steps (house notes included a warning to the “old and infirm”!)

The Chapel, 3: that glistening byway is the River Eye

Upper Slaughter, the ford (view from the tiny footbridge)

Clickable video: Cotswolds ASMR

From my morning jaunt

A church building has been on this site since the early medieval period, with records showing a St. Mary’s on this site since 1403 and a rededicated St. Peter’s in 1803. Can we please talk about the saint swapping?

The Chapel, brookside

Chipping Camden high street (not my photo)

A rare working telephone booth: most have been repurposed to hold defibrillators! (The thrifted linen artist coat was one of Maddy’s rare finds in Paris.)

A walk to the cemetery where we read headstones and reminisced about the inimitable Margie Loebig, who always loved a good cemetery meander and found the glimpses of family histories fascinating

Two women, an ancient house of worship, and an evening stroll in a village whose name derives from the word “slough” for wetlands

5
Bourton-on-the-Water

Day 5

Another day of village life!

The ley lines here must be strong, because by some magic I was able to persuade Maddy to rise early for our long ramble to Bourton-on-the-Water (BOTW) aka “Venice of the Cotswolds”—a scenic village whose high street features 5 stone bridges crossing the River Windrush.

Our 4.5-mile walk would take us into countryside known fondly as the AONB (Area of Natural Beauty).

***A brief history of the humble British footpath begins here.***

The history of footpaths in England tells the story of urbanization experienced in so many regions of the world.

A simple means of crossing privately owned land to get to market, school and other destinations, footpaths were eliminated during early 19th-century industrialization when land became a source of mass food production and “enclosure acts” led millions of dispossessed poor to relocate to the cities.

Fortunately artists and intellectuals came to the rescue (as they often do)—rejecting mechanistic views of nature, re-enchanting the public imagination, and helping shift the appetites of a growing middle class for more access to the wilds. (See the Romanticism movement for more on this.)

By 1949 a group of concerned ramblers and conservationists proposed the “National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act,” eventually spurring the creation of a network of parks, paths and rights of way liberating the land.

Since then dozens of public footpaths were created (like the 104-mile Cotswold Way), crisscrossing the countryside and offering jewel-box views of sheep pastures, ancient glades, and stream-stitched parishes.

***End history minute***

Sloshy with tea, Maddy and I set out on our own adventure—through the waist-high grasses and blooming meadows from Warden’s Way to and Monarch Way and briefly along the old Roman road known as Fosse (Latin for “ditch) Way.

The amble did not disappoint and, while the scenery was quietly stunning, the real treasure was conversation with Maddy, with observations about our family culture, body image, the politics of whiteness, and the dark history of eugenics and modern medicine.

At some point Maddy’s phone blew up with texts re the overturning of Roe v Wade. We needed a community of women to process with but the fields and birds offered what presence they could while we metabolized outrage, resignation and fear—especially about what this might portend for other rights legislation and the next presidential election.

The ruling brought to mind my experience upon entry to England over 20 years ago, when a Heathrow customs agent let me know he was denying the work visa we had gotten legally cleared stateside because I was considered “chattel and goods”—that is, Tom’s property. I refused to enter the country until another agent could be found to acknowledge my legal right to work.

It feels like women are always having to fight these battles. Surely there is a way to hold all life as sacred while also protecting women’s rights over their bodies and access to healthcare?

We let the conversation get worked out through our feet. Sun and blue sky and words shared with a daughter make me feel hopeful in spite of myself.

In BOTW, we quenched our thirst, used the loo, took photos aplenty and kept small souvenir shops financially afloat.

Our homeward journey left us gratifyingly spent with final mileage punching in at 7.5. We napped and called it very good.

After rousing we took pencils and paints to the River and gave ourselves over to beauty and making.

Dinner on the back patio was simple leftovers accompanied by the conversation of neighboring wood pigeons, jackdaws and lambs.

Before lights out, our nightly dose of the random—“Would you rather fight a human-sized spider or a thousand regular-sized spiders? A hobbity question if ever there was one.

Young people and cute “hiking” clothes

A clear winner for where the Pevensie children were sent and discovered the wardrobe to Narnia.

I appreciate good signage but found these arrows quite moody.

Oddly shaped conveyances like this one keep sheep from wandering beyond their pasture and Americans scratching their heads.

A well-marked trail is a thing of beauty

6
Shepherd's Bush

Day 6

From Upper Slaughter to Shepherds Bush!

A day of connections and travel as we returned (reluctantly) from the AONB to Oxford and then London.

Highlights from our afternoon in London include visiting Maddy’s childhood home in Shepherds Bush—where unexpectedly good timing made it possible to get a tour of the place—a walk through Holland Park, and dinner in Nottinghill at Gold.

An early night in to rest and refresh before our final day in London tomorrow!

65A Loftus Rd: our garden flat, lower right. In the twenty years that Maddy grew up, this 1-BR home became a 2-BR pied de terre—with new trees, an added bedroom and redesigned kitchen, a glass conservatory expansion, and a much smaller garden. Have We changed as much?

Holland Park has seen better days, but the lavender was booming!

One tired, happy young person

7
Trebovir Hotel

Day 7

Our last full day in Anglia!

We slept late and met Luciana, our local guide, for a private whirlwind tour of London’s hidden gems and historic landmarks—including Covent Garden, Trafalgar Square, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Cathedral, the newly face-lifted Big Ben and ending at the Tate Modern.

It was too much and too fast at the height of tourist season, but our guide skillfully negotiated crowds and introduced us to some fabulous street art, including a whimsical mural by Bambi—the female Banksy of London.

“You can be as naughty as you want just don’t get caught.” (Caption given by the artist)

Giles upon Giles

We needed a nap after the hustle, but instead settled for Pimm’s (a refreshing fruit spritzer) and carb-loading before getting our art-fill of the sublime at the Tate.

After some downtime back at the Trebovir Hotel, Maddy went hunting for an outfit for Pride this Sunday while I reflected and wrote.

She returned victorious, and we hoofed it to the India Club for a final dinner of curry and lager before settling in to the effulgent strains of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons at a candlelight concert at St. Martin-in-the-Field.

Violinists Richard and Julia, front left

Lead violinists Richard Milone and Princess-Diana-look-alike Julia Burkert performed with such liveliness and synchronicity that it seemed Vivaldi was playing them rather than the other way round. They had a particularly playful stage presence, swaying as they played, catching each other’s eyes and waggling eyebrows as if letting us in on some amusing secret. We surmised that they were close friends who had played together often and knew the music by heart—allowing them to live inside the music. It was an extraordinary performance the likes of which we’d never seen before. Just wow and an incredible capstone to a week of so many graces and gifts.

Clickable video. Vivaldi did not disappoint!

8
672 10th Ave, San Francisco, CA 94118, USA

Day 8

Farewell UK!

Maddy and I had stressful journeys \240(hers involved an unexpected flight change and overnight in Calgary—so arrives back on Sunday; mine involved the “Heathrow half mile sprint”—not my best event), but I am happily home.

We agreed the Cotswolds and our conversations there were the unexpected highlight of the trip. Looking forward to more of these sensory-rich mother-daughter trips!

I watched Milk with Sean Penn on the return flight, which Tom tells me pairs well with The Season of the Witch book so many of you have recommended as must-read SF history. The movie was tender, inspiring, and strangely resonant in light of Roe v Wade. Highly recommend!