Today is the day! 18 months planning and preparation and the Philmont excursion is about to begin. We will be a co-ed crew of 10 with three adult leaders, 6 young men, and one young woman. I never dreamed I’d get to be a part of a Philmont excursion and a female crew-leader no less.

Philmont is one of the quintessential high-adventure scout camps and is a life-changer and bucket-list item for many scouts. Born in 1938 and spanning a whopping 140,177 acres this rugged terrain located in the wilderness of the Sangre de Cristo mountains in northeastern New Mexico is not to be embarked on lightly. Philmont has a rich history packed with ancient First Nation peoples, Spanish Conquistadors, rugged mountain men, ranchers, miners, and land barons. It is said the past still comes alive with an occasional ghostly sighting in specific key areas and Urraca Mesa is considered one of the most haunted places on earth.

Our crew has voted to embark on the 2019 Trek number 32 which consists of 78 miles of rugged mountains in the northern section of Philmont. Each crew gets to do activities along the way. We will do rock climbing, mountain biking, folk weather forecasting, blacksmithing, have a mine tour and try our hands at gold panning. These are just some of what we will get to experience along the way.

To say I’m nervous is an understatement. My nerves are mostly excitement for the journey ahead but I always get nervous on things like this. Anything can happen in the outdoors and just because I completed the John Muir Trail last summer on a solo trek does not mean any of this will be easy. As an adult crew leader my primary concern is for the youth, their safety and well-being. I also have concerns for my aging, aching body.

My family and I have gone through a lot of changes since the formation of our crew began with our beloved Maui-based scout troop 18 months ago. Last May we realized our 11 years on Maui was rapidly coming to a close. We decided it best for our family to relocate back to the mainland. My husband took a job that landed us just outside of Albuquerque, New Mexico. Telling our crew of our plans for departure was not an easy thing to do. Could my son Liam and I still be a part of this adventure? I had great reservations about leaving Maui mostly because of our integration with Troop 100 and our Philmont crew. We received confirmation that our Philmont spots would still be available. We left Maui on July 28, 2018. Back then I had about a week to get my life in order to leave for the John Muir Trail. James, Liam and my in-laws were living in a hotel until they could move into a rental home in the east mountains. The day that I got back from the JMT, James told me he found a house that was for sale just up the road. I had to totally switch gears, get my head out of the wilderness and back into house-hunting and settling in. I was only like-warm about the prospect of yet another move and a mortgage. I let James make the decision as to whether or not we would pursue the place. We spent an agonizing month waiting for the offer to be accepted, negotiations, house inspections, and dealing with the mortgage loan sharks. We finally moved in to our own home at the end of October and all thoughts of Philmont were temporarily erased.

It has been difficult for Liam and I to be away from the Philmont crew comradery. It was fully up to me to get us trained and ready. This was no easy task as my 13 (now 14) year old son does not like taking instruction from his mother.

Soon after Christmas we joined a gym and committed to going every Monday after school before Liam’s troop meeting. Most Monday’s consisted of lots of complaints from Liam. Although he did is fair share of workouts, there were numerous Mondays of a lackadasical attitude and very little work on his part. Somehow though he still managed to bulk up and beat me at arm wrestling. I can’t catch him on a hiking descent to save my life, but I still have the cardio advantage in an ascent. We live st 6700 feet so at least we will have the added advantage of acclimatization.

During the past year we have gotten involved in a new troop and Liam has made many new friends at school. He is nervous about fitting in with boys he hasn’t seen since last summer. Well, we don’t have long to wait. The Maui crew will arrive in Albuquerque in just a couple of hours.

Today we will meet up with the Blue Sky Adventure tour company with whom we have a pre-Philmont package tour. Today it’s Fronteir Restaurant for lunch, Atomic Museum, aerial tram, a short hike and then check in at the hotel for R&R.

(Liam and I on our final training hike)

(Our trek route)

James arrived at the house to pick up me and Liam for our meeting at the airport. I was on pins and needles waiting for him to get home because I feared we’d be late. He actually got us there in perfect time. Liam and I waited at the baggage area to greet the red-eyed, tired crew. I remember those long, overnight flights back to the mainland and they always ruined me for the next day. After all of their bags were accounted for we met up with our Blue Sky Tour guide to begin the day’s outing.

(The crew loading up the Blue Sky van)

Our first stop was the Frontier Restaurant, a sort of southwestern-style local plate flavor in the University of New Mexico area. I munched on my green chili cheeseburger listening to the chit chat of the crew. I haven’t seen these folks in a year and a few of these boys seemed to have sprouted up a foot and voice dropped 2 octaves.

After lunch we packed into the van and made our way toward the Atomuc Museum. We spent an hour wandering around learning about the atomic bomb. It was really interesting to see all of the plane and missile replicas stationed outside of the building.

After the museum we headed to the Sandia Crest Tram. As seems to be typical for Albuquerque, someone cut right in front of us inches from the corner of our front bumper. Our tour guide exclaimed that this was a brand new van and the idiot nearly wrecked us. We safely made it to the tram and boarded the car like sardines in a can. It lifted off and we went soaring above the granite cliffs and canyons of Sandia Crest. The elevation at the base is 6600 feet and the top is just under 11,000 feet. Even though I live here now, it is still fun to play tourist in my home town.

(Nuclear Museum)

(Sandia Crest team)

(The crew at the top of Sandia Crest)

We took the 1-mile hike to the stone hut originally built in the 1930s. \240It was a comfortable 65 degrees up there; far nicer then the 91 in town.

I found it strange to be up on the mountain staring at the green slopes of the ski area. \240The last time I was up there it still had a 2-foot snow base. \240

When we descended back to the bottom, it was time to make our way to the hotel for dinner and relaxation. \240Our crew was rapidly falling asleep on the van, the long sleepless flight had caught up. \240

I sat with James and Jamie and listened to some live jazz playing near the bar. \240They were really good! \240

Some of the boys stayed up to play basketball but most decided to get some sleep. \240We have an early day tomorrow and that 5:30 alarm is going to come all too soon.

I had trouble falling asleep last night as I had a fair bit of anxiety over getting up at 5:30 plus excitement about river rafting. The anxiousness comes because I’m not real cognitive in the morning without sitting on my duff nursing coffee for at least 20 minutes before I even speak. I found myself drifting off to sleep only to jolt awake and look at the clock, then repeat. Finally sleep took over...and then came the wake up call at 5:25. I dressed in my class A, adrenaline doing the job of that precious morning coffee. The crew met in the lobby for our private, all-you-can-eat breakfast. What a spread! There was cereal, oatmeal, yoghurt, bacon, sausage, eggs, fruit, and various breads and pastries.

(The breaky spread at the hotel)

After breakfast we loaded into the van to begin our adventure for the day. Today’s plan was to drive up to Sante Fe, take a quick walking tour lapping once around the plaza, and then getting back in the van to drive to Rio Chama outside of ghost ranch. \240It looked like the plaza was setting up for an arts festival. \240There were many artisans set up beneath white tents. \240I wished that we could have at least an hour to stroll around. \240It reminded me that when Liam is away at World Jamboree James and I should take a day to visit a museum and enjoy the beautiful historic architecture that Sante Fe has to offer. \240In a whirl-wind of a bathroom break and a walking lap, we were back on the bus.

(Cathedral Basilica)

(Walking around the plaza at Sante Fe)

(Artisan shop and the location where the scientists would come to be mysteriously whisked away to make the A-bomb)

The barren countryside gave way to rusty sandstone cliffs and spires. \240Juniper and sage brush dotted the dry hills and mesas rose in the distance, looking like \240sawed off mountain tops. \240This is the land of the mother of American modernism, the home of the great Georgia O’Keeffe. \240

(Painting by Georgia O’Keeffe)

We met the Los Rios river guides at a mercantile in Abiquiu. We took some time to change into our river clothes and browse at the shop. We were herded into a school bus to make the journey on a washboard dirt road to reach the river.

(Getting ready to get in the river)

We wound and twisted around, deeper into the sandstone canyons, the bus shaking with road vibration. The drive took about a half hour to get to our launch point. New Mexico has a lot to offer if you have the proper vehicle to get to the middle of nowhere. That’s why I like New Mexico. One can easily be out in the Wild West, backcountry and wilderness in a relatively short time no matter where you live in the state. You can spend your entire life here and not even cover even a smidgen of the BLM lands, mountains, deserts, and vistas. There is a ancient presence of wildness, ruggedness, independence, and freedom that I feel here. If you listen closely, you can almost hear and feel the spirit of those who once walked the ancient plains and hills in the desert sands. Now it’s totally true that I’d prefer living at a higher altitude with cooler temps and more snow, but at least getting to places like that are a reasonable drive away for a day trip.

Once we got to our launch point, we were outfitted with PFDs and helmets. My head is so damn small that I had to wear a child’s one! We were given instruction on how to get in and out of our rafts and how to read the rapids. We were two to a Fun-yak and the heavier person was to take stern. A Fun-yak is an inflatable kayak. It allows for you to actually paddle, negotiate the rapids, and get thoroughly soaked with 45 degree water! Unfortunately I had to leave my camera (AKA phone) \240behind because I did not bring a dry bag for it, so I don’t have any river pictures. We floated 8 miles on the Rio Chama and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I felt the reckless excitement approaching the rapids, waiting with anticipation as we dipped and rose through the waves. The water would splash right into the boat, drench me and then settle in the back of the boat to soak stern-man Jamie. The hazy day cleared off to give lovely views of the surrounding canyons striped with the lush green of riparian trees.

Around noon we pulled off to land the boats and were greeted with a wonderful picnic lunch of sandwiches, drinks, fresh fruit, chips and salsa, and cookies. My wet clothes clung to my skin but the sun was wonderfully warm.

We got back on the river for about another hour and a half before landing at our take-out spot. The rapids here were a little longer and fun to navigate. By the end I was slightly glad that I could get warmed up and dried off as the snow melt water was starting to chill me. What a fun time! I think everyone really enjoyed it.

We changed back into dry clothes for the ride back to town. Our guide stopped at a roadside picnic area to give us snacks and drinks before the long drive back to Albuquerque. Most of us snoozed on the way back. I felt zonked from lack of sleep.

Once we got back into town we headed straight for Furr’s Buffet for a stuff your face dinner. The food was descent despite the ice cream looking questionable and stepping into someone’s spaghetti dinner that ended up on the floor. After supper it was back to the hotel for relaxation.

(Rough looking crew...and we aren’t even at Philmont yet)

I tried to spend some time relaxing and loosening up in the hot tub but the chlorine was so strong it bothered my eyes.

It’s now 10 pm and I need to try to get some rest and hope that the fiber gummies I ate do their job by morning.

I didn’t have much luck sleeping last night either and the 5:25 wake up call came way too early. It was a frenzy of activity around the hotel lobby as our crew and another Philmont crews hurriedly ate breakfast and loaded up the gear into our respective vans. I found a spare 2 minutes to use the restroom so that was good. I hate to say it but the constipation issue and potential migraines from a constant barrage of activity are what worry me a lot more than the backpacking. James took me to Target last night to get some fiber gummies.

We piled into the van and at 6:30 on the dot we were on our way to Philmont. The scenery changed to a dark green rolling hilly landscape and grassy plains. I have never seen New Mexico so green! Our amazingly snowy winter and early “monsoon” weather spring has brought out long dormant, drought-laden grasses and wildflowers. It’s an anomaly this cool weather and moisture but I wish it would last forever. It is not unheard of to go 6 months with no moisture at all.

Our driver was a wealth of knowledge and he talked my ear off about all of the Native American Pueblo’s, New Mexico Civil War history, and archaeology. A retired air force pilot, he has been a tour guide for the Very Large Array and at Mesa Verde and is very knowledgeable in science and history.

On we drove through endless high prairies and distant mesas. I tried to sleep on the van but couldn’t.

Soon we were less than 20 miles away from Cimarrion. The famous Tooth of Time mountain rose out of the looming, cloud shrouded mountains. Mt Baldy was hiding in the gray. It was a balmy 51 degrees out and looked like a chance of spotty rain.

When we arrived at base camp I could feel the excitement of hundreds of young men and a handful of young women. There are Troops here from all over the country. We were immediately greeted by our ranger who would help us with logistics, training, and be our guide for the first few days in the wilderness. We were told to line up our packs in our assigned troop area. There were dozens and dozens of packs all over the ground.

Scout, our Boy Scout crew leader was given instructions while the rest of us waited. \240He has a big job to do running our crew for the next 10 days. \240We adult advisers are only here to be chaperones and can only step in if something is unsafe. \240

(The crew during pack lineup)

We waited in a courtyard for our troop number to be called so that we could join the que for lunch. \240Finally we heard, “609-Whiskey-01!”

Lunch consisted of delicious breaded chicken strips, mashed potatoes, broccoli, two cookies and a drink. \240

Will full stomachs we headed back outside for more waiting while Jamie, our crew master and the other Maui contingent troop got registered.

Waiting, waiting, waiting...while the crew leaders get instruction. At least I got to spend a little more time in the Tooth of Time Traders. There aren’t a lot of size choices for women, but Clare and I did manage to find a pair of shorts. \240Unfortunately most of the women’s shirts are pink or have “bling”

At long last we were lead away to have our crew picture taken. Then it was off to deal with Philmont-provided group gear. The boys received tents and were told to make sure all of the parts were there and that they were in sound condition.

(Philmont base camp Tent City)

(Tent inspection)

Scout and Clare picked up our food for the trek. It came in two large trash bags. The youth had to organize all of the food by day. It reminded me of what I had to do with my food before the John Muir Trail last summer.

(Food organization)

After the food was accounted for, we went over to the medical station \240where we had to bring any medications and the crew filled out a pamphlet on The Trail of Courage.

(The gang at medical)

We were then lead to the medical building where we sat in chairs waiting for our names to be called. The medical staff met with each person individually and went through our medical papers and took our blood pressure. I soon realized that I was supposed to bring my medication in the prescription bottle. Didn’t do it, so I was given some advice to just say that I no longer take the medication so that I wouldn’t be stuck in the infirmary waiting for them to call my doctor. It worked like a charm and I was in and out in 2 minutes. Liam was another matter. He disappeared into the med check area and was gone for about a half hour. As it turned out his bone-headed mother didn’t realize that his epi-pen was expired. He has never been anaphylactic but had it as a precaution for localized reactions. I was starting to panic that they might send him home. I just had to accept the situation for what it was and work with whatever consequences arose. At long last he came back from the infirmary with a green light. Had he been truly anaphylactic allergic they would have had to get him a prescription from a pharmacy about an hour from here. Liam’s situation was resolved but we had another boy Kamana who was also held up in infirmary. He seemed to be suffering from altitude issues and anxiety. They gave him an IV drip and are keeping him over night. He may be able to join us tomorrow but if not, he will be taken to our location when he is ready. I really hope he can come on the trek.

With medical safely behind us it was chow time. We wolfed down a wonderful dinner of baked ziti. Afterward it was a leaders meeting in which the crew leader (Scout), trail ethics leader (Liam), chaplains aid (Clare), and the advisors all received training.

Directly after that we were off to one of the worship chapels for an outdoor service. The only slightly bothersome thing about this is that they they were all Christian denominations and one Jewish. None of the other religions were represented, but I guess there just isn’t enough people of differing faiths that come to Philmont. The service mostly focused on feeling close to the presence of God through the beauty of the earth and supporting one another. Since nature is my church at least I could fully agree on that!

The temperature had dropped once the sun went down so we had a chance to quickly get back to tent city to put on some warmer clothes before the camp fire.

The camp fire consisted of a fun play explaining the various characters who historically made Philmont what it is. They were also excellent musicians and they interjected the play dialogue with folk songs. \240I especially liked the “Mountain Song”. \240Every time the staff sang the word “mountain” the crown had to make a mountain shape with their arms and yell, “Mountain!!!”

(Opening camp fire)

(Historical character play)

They also honored the crew leaders. \240We ended the evening by singing the Philmont hymn. \240I thought about James’ uncle Glynn whom we just visited in Texas. \240He was a troop master for many years and went to Philmont 6 times. \240He is the one who introduced me to that hymn and I really like it. \240

It’s now after 10pm. \240I’d better try to get some sleep because 5:30am will be here before I know it.

Today is the day we finally enter the backcountry. I slept a bit better last night which means it was harder to get up at 5:30. Sound ironic? Well on average I’m not getting \240anywhere near the typical 8 hours. I suspect this will be better once I can go to bed when the sun goes down.

(Dawn over tent city)

The night was chilly but not uncomfortable. I kept thinking about the smellables that I had in my tent with me. They make a pretty big deal about the “Bear-muda-triangle”, bear bags and smellables. With good reason! This is to keep both the bear and human safe. However, here we are at base camp with smellables in our tents. I think it’s safe though because there are so many people and structures here. I woke up some time during the night to a snuffling sound that seemed to be right outside my tent. What if a bear decided to maul the tent to get to my fiber gummies? The breathing and snuffling continued. I sat up feeling my heart rate rise. Fortunately I realized that it was the canvas tent flaps scraping against the wooden platform foundation. I had forgotten to tack them down. Having done that, I settled back down.

I had the luxury of having absolutely no problem getting in the bathroom. Ahh Philmont! The only place in the developed world where there are bathroom lines for men and none for women!!!

Breakfast was a delicious biscuits and gravy. It was rushed as usual. The only issue I’m having so far is the constant rush. There just isn’t any down time at all at least not yet. If you have to go to the bathroom you’ve got 2 minutes. Dinner? 15. I’m a person who likes schedule and organization but tight schedules stress me out. Just grin and bear it. Breathe. Hopefully things will calm down when base camp is behind us.

After the hasty breakfast we did our final shakedown (gear check) and then distributed the food and repacked. My heart sunk as I realized that my pack was way too small for the amount of crew gear and food. I offered to carry one of the aluminum 8 qt \240pots and was getting frustrated for where to put it.

(Gear shakedown)

(Gear shakedown)

(My pack. Can’t even close it!)

After repacking, we waited for our bus to take us to our trailhead. We weighed our packs. Mine is a whopping 41 pounds. The Philmont food is really heavy. There are whole boxes of crackers, entire sleeves of bagels, cheese circles, spam slices, power bars, etc. there isn’t much in the freeze-dried food department to help with weight plus we had to distribute all of the crew gear. I had a couple of grumpy moments, but we are all in this together, all going through the same ordeal. There is power in numbers and positive thinking. Unfortunately Kamana isn’t feeling up to joining us yet so he will stay in the infirmary.

At 9:30 we boarded the bus for Chase Ranch. When we arrived at Chase Ranch we got a tour of the home from the 1700s. Teresa Chase was a very hardy fronteir woman. While in the orchard, she was attacked by a mountain Lion. The whale bone corset saved her life. She bashed the lion in the head, killed it and proceeded to drag it into the kitchen.

(Chase Ranch)

Today was supposed to be a 4 mile hike. It ended up being 6. There isnt really much in the way of marked trails here so the youth crew had to work with a map and compass to lead everyone. We missed where we were supposed to go and put in an extra 2 miles.

(Navigation practice)

It was a tough day. We already have folks with blisters, packs that don’t fit and tired bodies. Tempers began to flare as six youth tried to figure out where we were. \240The advisors stood waiting in silence as they worked it out. \240It’s trial by fire as we are not allowed to assist. Our camp training took forever as we had to learn how to hang bear bags and put up a dining fly. After the bear bags were put up we started to look through the dinner bags. No stuffing. It had gone up with the bear bags and we had to get them down and go through every one in order to find them. The 5 bear bags are really heavy so the rope tends to tear up your hands while playing tug-O-war trying to hoist them up. \240Seems I’ve already lost one of my water bottles so I’m a liter short. I’m not too worried by it other than the fact that I accidentally littered. My opinion right now? The John Muir Trail was easier. I’m a far better solo trekker than I am in a group. That being said, I never got this valuable teamwork experience that these youth are doing. It is through the wilds of the outdoors where life’s lessons are learned. We are all in this together.

(The gang on the way to Hell Fire Canyon).

We have to hang up the bear bags in a specific way using a “lark’s head” hitch and make sure the bags hang close together. What a pain in the tear these bags are! We have to camp a minimum of 50 feet outside of the Bear-muda triangle. The triangle consists of the hung bags, the fire pit and the sump. The dining fly must be placed inside of the triangle, as do our packs.

(We’re still looking for the camp!)

At long last we ate dinner at 7:00. We arrived in camp at 3:45 so for all that time we were setting up camp and getting training. After dinner we did get a few minutes to relax, but then there were dishes to do, dealing with the gray water and food debris, hanging a final bear bag (AKA oops bag) and then talked about how the day went...the good, the bad, and the ugly. It’s a 6:00 wake up tomorrow with breakfast on the trail. That means NO coffee!!! Aaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!!!!!

Day 2 on the trail. \240Today’s destination is the Chase Cow camp for rock climbing and repelling. \240The alarm went off at 6 but I was awake sooner than that. \240I began to pack up my tent area. \240I felt like I was the last one ready. \240I have trouble getting motivated first thing in the morning. \240Breakfast consisted of grazing on the way to Chase Cow camp. \240The spot where our activity was held was in a lovely canyon with grassy meadows. \240

(Chase Cow Camp)

We were soon lead to the climbing areas where the staff was ready to assist us into harnesses and helmets. Most of us had never done any rock climbing before today. I was nervous and excited all at the same time. There were 2 climbing “routes” up the sandstone. \240I was happy that a chaplain drive Kamana out to join our trek! \240He immediately got geared up to climb with us. \240

(Me climbing)

(Me repelling)

(The boys climbing)

I was a bit nervous about repelling as I’m a little afraid of heights. I did what the guide told me to do and I trusted in the rope. It felt so natural and it was a lot of fun.

Within an hour or so everyone had gotten a chance to climb and we got our packs on and hiked toward Chase Canyon for our camping destination for the night. We got to the camp and relaxed for a leasurely lunch. I’m so glad I brought this chair! I was feeling a bit overheated and tired and was having trouble getting rid of the headache I’ve had all day that is likely due to dehydration. \240

After lunch it was time to deal with bear bags. The crew did better with it today but it still took a while. Bear bags are the pits.

(The gang tying up bear bags)

(Hoisting the bear bags)

Since we arrived to camp so early, we had a few hours to just rest. I was very, very thankful for that. I dozed in my chair and completely zoned out. With all of the activity since the Blue Sky Adventures and the frenzy of Philmont it was some much needed peace. I did wish we would go wander around the canyons though.

Most of us napped for a while. When the crew began working on dinner I decided to do my best to bathe using a wipe, soap and the remaining water in my bottle. I saw a beautiful leaf fossil imprint on the sandstone! It was a while print about 5 inches by 4 inches. I felt a little better, but I’ve had a headache all day and the heat was really starting to bother me. I took an Advil and drank more water. I ate a hearty dinner and our ranger guide brought us pound cake as a treat! She leaves us on our own tomorrow morning. The sun displayed a lovely sunset over Chase Canyon. It cooled down once the sun disappeared and my headache lessened. I keep drinking water but it still isn’t enough. Tomorrow we hike 5 miles to Indian Writings where we will do a service project of trail building. Afterward it is another 5 miles to our camp. It will be a long day and I’mreally hoping this headache goes away and I’m able to stay hydrated. I guess Liam is doing okay, but he doesn’t want to interact with me at all. It can feel lonely at times. I don’t think I’m that bad to hang around but I guess he sees it differently. Sigh. It does make me very sad.

(Sunset iver Chase Canyon. Too bad I caught it too late)

I am hoping that we will hike at a slower pace and spend time getting to enjoy the scenery tomorrow.

The day began at 5:00. I packed up my gear and began to help on the troop gear. The consensus was to boil some water this morning for the oatmeal packets and hot drinks. I have been having trouble going to the bathroom partly due to dehydration and partly due to the constant rush and little time to sit at the great Red Shed Inn, AKA poop composting toilet. I thought I’d go while the water was heating up. \240When I got back everything was already cleaned up. \240I had to put my coffee powder and creamer in the trash. \240Sigh, and I wasn’t even successful in the Red Shed Inn. \240I can’t typically “drop the load and go” so the timing issues have been tough for me.

We hit the trail by 7:00. \240We had about 5 miles to get to Indian Writings camp for our service project. \240We were finally hiking on a trail and not on a dirt road. \240As we climbed up above the Chase Canyon Valley, we were treated to some wonderful views of the surrounding mountains and got our first glimpse of Mt Baldy. \240

(on the hike toward Indian Writings)

(The gang on day 4)

I felt really good today. It was my first real feeling of Trail Magic, the feeling of joy seeing the surrounding landscape. Our pace was far slower than it has been so I was actually able to see the scenery.

We reached Indian Writings and got ready to meet the staff who would guide us in the conservation project. We were given shovels, picks, and a sort of flat, metal rake. Our job was to help construct a trail. It was filthy, hot, dusty work. I ran out of water long before our session was over. I enjoyed chatting with some of the other crews that were helping out. We were hot and dirty by time lunch came.

(On the way to service project)

(Getting service project instruction)

I was totally out of water so I ate my lunch dry. \240After lunch the crew decided to do an activity. \240The choice was between petroglyphs, archaeology, or atle-atle throwing. \240The gang chose the atle-atle throwing. \240

(Trail building)

(Trail building)

(Atle-Atle throwing)

I was bummed that we didn’t have any time to do either the petroglyphs or the archaeology program, but we still had a 5 mile hike to get to North Ponil Camp.

I decided not to do the activity and instead just watch and work on my journal.

After the activity we quickly re-filled water, hoisted our packs and were on our way.

The hike was hot and followed along a hard packed dirt road. I’m pretty tired of hiking on hard pack roads, but at least all of the hiking so far has been pretty easy walking.

We stopped for a few minutes at Medcalf camp which is a railroad camp. The potable water there was great. The water from Indian Writings tasted like sulfur. I heard rumor that there was a small general store here and I was hoping to replace my lost water bottle. No dice. Oh well. The short break was nice.

(Resting at Metcalf)

Soon we were on our way again. Just a couple miles to go. Some of the crew was starting to wear out so we took a 5 minute break. Hot sun beat down on us and the ruts in the road made for sore feet. We were close, but then the road split and we went and took the left fork. Up the road climbed carrying us farther from the creek, bummer. No creek to rinse the stink and dust off. We finally reached the camp. Getting back to the creek to fetch water will be no easy task. \240Dinner was really good and consisted of a bean, chicken, and rice dish with tortillas. We went through our usual chaplain’s aide “Rose, thorn, and bud” discussion. This is when everyone tells of a “rose” or one positive thing during the day, a “thorn”, one negative, and a “bud” something you are looking forward to. \240 I like that we do that because it helps the group to bond.

Tomorrow is another 10 mile day, in the sun, and along a hard pack dirt road.

(Tired after a long day)

I started making the preparations to start the day at 5:30am. It was feeling easier now even though the worst part of the day is getting out of the sleeping bag. This wasn’t such a great camp, North Ponil. Yesterday after hiking 10+ miles we were hit with a very steep hill on the dirt road. The camp was on top of a dry knoll making the descent and trek to the creek to get water a pain in the neck for those getting it.

We packed up and took a few minutes to eat breakfast before starting our 10+ mile day.

Soon we were nose to tail on the trail hiking through Ponil valley on a dirt Jeep road. If the breeze blew just right you could smell the BO of the person in front of you. The trail was easy walking and flat the entire day making for easy walking but a rather monotonous day to get to Whiteman Vega.

(Enroute to Whiteman Vega)

It was mercifully cool due to the sun being hidden by weak clouds. \240The valley was grassy and loaded with wildflower of Iris, Fleabane Aster, Indian Paintbrush, and others that I could not identify. \240

(Liam chilling out)

We had a couple of small stream crossings so the crew decided to throw their packs across and then jump over.

(Pack caught in mId-air!)

With the stream crossings behind us, We pressed on through the valley. The fleabane aster wildflowers were so dense in some areas that it looked like a dusting of snow. One of our crew members, Kamana, was really feeling a lot of anxiety. Our hiking pace slowed way down and we actually had to stop. I did my best to calm him down. It seemed to work because within 10 minutes we were back to hiking over 3 miles and hour.

(Our fearless advisor crew leader)

It was warm but didn’t seem overly hot. \240As we got closer to Whiteman Vega Campground we could see the mountains in the distance. \240Ponderosa pines covered the nearby hills and the Meadow opened up. \240

(Ponil Valley)

We reached Whiteman Vega. It was a huge subalpine Meadow with scattered ponderosa. Unfortunately there was no Red Shed Inn for number 2. We were told we had to walk up to poop hill and dIg catholes. There was literally no where to squat and pee so the staff made a stick shelter for female use. Unfortunately it is a 10 minute walk to get to it from our camp. Guess I’ll use poop hill.

We had about a half hour to rest before our mountain bike session. I was nervous about it because I‘m pretty clumsy on a mountain bike. We got fitted for our bikes and rode them around to get familiar with them.

(Getting geared up for mountain biking)

Liam tried out his bike and decided not to do it. I could tell he was really frustrated with himself, but I think he made a very smart decision. He has almost no bike experience and he was worried about a fall and injury. We rode single file in a large group. The trail was pretty smooth without too many obstacles and I was really enjoying it. I only got tripped up once. \240It has been my favorite activity so far.

(Me on a break)

(The gang mountain biking)

(Me having a blast)

(Whiteman Vega Campground area)

After mountain biking we were lead to our camping area for the night. \240This has been my favorite camp yet. \240

(Whiteman Vega)

Once camp was set up, I took some time to try to wash my face and other pertinent stink areas. \240I was so full of sweat and dust. \240It felt good to be semi-clean.

I sat in my chair for a while and got to relax. \240I’m so glad I brought this camp \240chair! \240

(Me chilling out)

(The crew relaxing before dinner)

Things were relaxing for a while but went downhill pretty fast. There was an accident with our stove and the boiled water spilled causing mud to splash all over our mess kits. Dinner took a while, but stuff like that happens. The worst thing though is that Clare has a dislocated rib and it’s really painful for her to breathe let alone carry a pack. James (her dad) has treated her for tonight but she may need an X-ray. She was upset because she does not want to leave. She wants to be able to finish the trek with the crew. As James discussed with us the potential scenarios of Clare’s rib issue, we all voted unanimously to divide her gear amongst the crew so that she could still hike but not carry any weight. It has certainly been a bonding experience to see our crew come together and help someone in need. I hope tomorrow she feels better. I really do.

I would say my secret “rose” today (one positive thing from the day) is helping Kamana with his anxiety. \240I knew exactly how he was feeling and what was going on. \240I know because back in 2014 I suffered from numerous panic attacks and had to learn how to calm myself down. \240Being able to do that for someone else has been a turning point for me thus far in this trek. \240I can do this and I’m here for a reason. \240

It was a beautiful morning. \240I could see the mountains clearly in the distance. \240The Western Meadowlarks we singing at the treetops. \240Just lovely.

(Boiling breakfast water)

(Little Costilla Mt)

We had a leasurely breakfast before packing up. Clare is doing fairly well and can walk even though breathing is difficult. She is going to hike to the next staff camp and see how she feels. Made of steel!

Liam is suffering today. He was quiet during our hike this morning and seemed almost near tears. He had 2, penny-sized blisters on each foot right on the ball of his feet. We stopped at a state forest campground so that people could use the toilet. I did my best to help Liam shorten his hip belt and then proceeded to clean and treat his blisters under the guidance of James Brent, retired fireman captain and an expert in first aid. I had to pop both blisters and then tape up his feet. I took the insoles out of his shoes in an attempt to dry them out. He has the beginning stages of trench foot.

We hiked in through a gorgeous meadow of irises.

(Heading to Ring Ranch)

Liam was still hurting. It wasn’t too far to get to Ring Ranch which was our first resupply. We had to cross a marshy meadow and cross a narrow stream to get to the Ranch. Liam stepped too close to the marsh and soaked his feet. Ugh! Now his feet are wet and the blister second skin treatment soaked and useless. It was a long stop at Ring Ranch so I was able to wash his socks in the stream and try to get his shoes and feet dried out. He treated his feet again during our lunch break.

(Ring Ranch)

(Ring Ranch)

(Drying our feet and eating lunch at Ring Ranch)

Clare was getting worse. \240It was painful for her to breathe. \240She is going to try to do the 2 miles to Seally Campground, our destination for the night and then monitor the situation. \240I’m worried about both Clare and Liam. \240

(Packing up our resupply and getting ready to head out)

It was a very trying afternoon. This was our first resupply so our packs were full. It was also our first day totally off trail so the navigator had a hard job to get us to Seally Canyon. We first had to cross through the marsh at Ring Ranch. I was hoping Liam would be able to keep his feet dry.

(Marsh crossing)

We had no trail or dirt road to follow today. We had to get from Ring Ranch to Seally Canyon by topp map and compass alone. Everyday we have a different youth crew member to be the navigator and another is the pace-setter. Scout was the navigator today and it was definitely one of the hardest days to do so. We ended up off course pretty quickly hiking up and downhill through endless old burn areas and deadfall. Every other step was over an 8 inch diameter dead tree. I began to feel a hot spot on the ball of my right foot. We stopped many times to check the map. I checked my gps and realized we were off course. We helped the navigator get back on target and finally at long last we could see the yurt of Seally campground.

(Hiking over numerous deadfall)

Four miles turned into nearly 7. To say today was a rough one was an understatement. Clare’s rib was hurting, Liam has 2, dime-sized blisters on the balls of his feet, Holden rolled his ankle, Kamana was driven nuts by his electric toothbrush that was on at the bottom of his pack, and Scout’s morale was running low. The staff gave us a shouting welcome when we arrived at Seally, but none of us really even responded. \240“Welcome to Seally Camp!!!” “Yay”, I tried to shout back. \240The rest of us were silent. \240

After a short break, we did our activity which was wilderness first aid. The staff member spent time going over wilderness search and rescue tactics when all of a sudden two guys came running toward our group shouting “Help! Help! There’s a man down over there!” Funny thing was though, the two guys went to the wrong group! None the less, our crew mosied on over to find him. No one was taking it seriously, but when we came to the victim, this is what he looked like;

The crew had to figure out how treat him. \240It looked nasty but of course it wasn’t real.

(Practicing wilderness firstaid)

(Practicing wilderness firstaid)

(Making splints)

Once the program was over it was time to set up camp. After dinner I washed Liam’s feet and helped him treat his blisters. He used the last of the crew’s second skin bandages. I hope he doesn’t get an infection. I ended up moving my tent 3 times because it was too close to dead trees. Seally camp area is a flat expansive, dry meadow with scattered half-dead ponderosa pines. We are all dying for water so we can rinse out our smelly clothes. So far we have had no camps near water and once we get camp set up, you have to walk pretty far just to fill up water from the water buffalo container and walk forever to dig a cat hole.

We all got settled to bed after 9 when the staff came through our camp and told us our bear bags were hung too low and we had to choose different hanging trees. Everyone had to get up to help out. What a pain in the you know what! \240Failed Bear bag 101.

Tomorrow is another navigation heavy day with no trails or roads to follow. Come to think of it, we haven’t really even had much actual trail hiking at all. It’s been mostly on dirt roads or overgrown ranch roads. I hope my feet hold up because I now have a small blister on the ball of my right foot and another one toward the back of my heel. 6:00 will be here all too soon. Hope my bruised feet get some rest.

I slept okay last night but felt clammy and sticky. We don’t have enough fuel for a hot breakfast or coffee, but the banana nut Pro Bar was good. I hope my feet hold up today. So far I’m leaning toward going back toward wearing Brooks trail runners. This is my first time wearing La Sportiva and I’ve got 2 small blisters. Maybe it’s the heavier pack weight causing extra friction on my feet, but I did the entire John Muir Trail plus more covering about 280 miles and never got any foot issues.

We left camp at around 8. Kamana was our navigator and thought we could have a shorter hike taking a shortcut. He did well with the map but we ended up getting a little off course. We ended up doing over 5 miles up and down over numerous deadfall trees, rocks, and dry grasses. It seemed that as soon as we climbed up a hill there was more and more old burn barren dead forest. Down we went and up and over another ridge. I was feeling really frustrated. My back, hip and shoulders were bothering me. It was hot and dry. The day was relentless. \240

(Mt Baldy in the distance)

(Hiking over deadfall...sigh)

We dragged on to the top of a ridge to take a 20 minute break. I could see 2 thunderstorm cells forming and a smaller third one. It was 10:30 and I was thinking by noon we might have a thunderstorm on top of us. We shouldered the packs and started off again.

The three thunderstorm cells had joined forces into one and was \240rapidly approaching. We were in a terribly vulnerable area. The thunderstorm took bites out of the summer day, smearing the sky above with an ominous grey. \240I was nervous because we were still up on a plateau with little tree cover and no where to go but plug on and try to get to lower ground making an effort to flee the storm. Good thing our direction of travel was in the opposite direction of the storm.

At long last we reached the dirt road that we could hike to the Dan Beard camp. We still had a mile and a half to go but we had been hiking for 6 miles up and down over the dry, deadfall. No one really spoke. We all just wanted to get to Dan Beard and drop the heavy packs. I saw the line of canvas tents and knew we’d finally arrived. “Welcome to Dan Beard!”, we heard the staff yell. \240

YAY!!

(Hiking at the edge of a thunderstorm)

(Dan Beard Campground)

It was 1:00 and I was starving. It was tuna fish packets and some gummies and some sort of nuts. It wasn’t much of a lunch as I don’t like tuna, so it was a sugary lunch for me. \240

After lunch the crew met a staff member for team challenge events. They had 4 blocks of wood set up and they had to figure out how to get everyone on the wood blocks, then sent 4 people to the next one, then two to the last one.

(Getting challenge instruction)

(Shark challenge! Don’t fall!)

When the challenge game was over we were lead to our camp. I could barely hoist my pack and climb up to the knoll where our camp area was. The nice thing about this camp is that it has 3 “Red Roof Inns” and a potable water spigot. We were able to do laundry! I used my dry bag and a few drops of soap to wash my clothes. Serious grey water came out of the bag. I took the time to wash my legs, feet, and face. Ahh. Sort of clean.

(Our laundry line)

The gang made a fire as we waited for dinner.

(Fire time!)

(Chill-axing)

We were invited to join the 7:00 program at Dan Beard cabin. The advisors got to sit on the porch, drink cowboy coffee or hot chocolate and have cookies. The youth had a game of capture the flag. What is amazing to me is the enthusiasm and energy all of the staff have. Maybe it is because it is the beginning of the Philmont season? Maybe it is because they are in their 20s!

We got back to camp around 9 and Scout had a packet of Gatorade pop open in his pocket. He had to clean himself up and put those clothes in the bear bag. The same thing happened to me yesterday but my packet had opened in the lunch bag getting all over the food and not my clothes.

I had just settled in my sleeping bag when along came some staff into our camp to wake us up. We had failed bear bag 101 again. Just like last night we had to raise the dang bags higher. I was clearly annoyed and asked why the heck they couldn’t \240come and check our bags earlier? They just said it takes them a while to visit all of the spread out camps in the area. I wasn’t annoyed that they were doing their job, just the late hour in which it was done. On the way back from adjusting the bags I jabbed the ball of my left foot on a sharp rock with my flimsy camp shoes. Great! More soreness in my feet.

It will be interesting to see what tomorrow’s hike will be like. Hoping it won’t be a deadfall hike through eternity.

The day began at 6:00. \240I did the usual routine of immediately packing up my things and then helped with the bear bags. \240Breakfast was...you guessed it! \240More trail food. \240I can’t wait to be able to have a hot cup of coffee and a real breakfast. \240I made a visit to the Red Shed Inn and noticed that it was quite a pretty picture.

(Dan Beard Red Shed Inn)

Our first planned activity began at 8. \240The crew met with the overly enthusiastic Ellen for a fun time of team work challenge. \240Their first challenge was to try to balance on a deck with a swivel.

Their next challenge was to try to get all youth crew members into a rope net.

Their final challenge was to use communication and teamwork to cross a tight rope.

(Don’t fall off the tight rope!)

Once our program was over it was time to get hiking. \240We had over 7 miles to do today and I was hoping it wouldn’t be miserable. \240

It was a few miles to Rich Cabin which is a homesteading program. \240Initially it was a climb but on a trail and not over endless deadfall. \240The view at the top was really nice.

(Mt Baldy getting closer)

(Enroute to Rich Cabin)

We hiked on enjoying the trail and the views. \240We could see the lush, green valley below and Rich Cabin at the far end.

(Lovely valley with Rich Cabin)

When we finally reached the cabin property we had to figure out a way to cross the stream. It was a horrible bush whack to the stream. There must have been a better way! We crossed one by one, most of us soaking our feet. We got through that only to see our sister crew (crew doing the same itinerary as us) come strolling up a dirt road. They had taken a bridge across. Sigh. We missed the road and the bridge. \240We took shoes and socks off to dry and went to sit on the porch of the Rich Cabin. We got to pet the goats and the pigs as thunder rolled overhead. It began to rain so we were running to get our already wet socks and shoes and packs out of the rain.

(Holding Hammy)

(Hanging out with hungry pigs)

We ate lunch on the porch and waited for the storm to pass. Rich Cabin property was at the bottom of an emerald valley. A dirt road followed the stream, lined with cottonwoods.

(Lunch during the storm)

We packed up donning our wet footwear and began the 2 mile walk along the dirt road to the trail leading up Wilson Mesa. \240

(Rich Cabin really is Rich. Love it!)

All too soon we began climbing up a rocky, steep trail. The trail twisted and rose in the ponderosa trees way above the valley. On and on it went. I think the climb was close to 2 miles. We were told the view from Wilson Mesa was spectacular. So far all we could see was scrubby grassy hillsides and ponderosa. The grey, cool weather continued and thunder roared overhead. Here we go again! In a high, bare place in a thunderstorm.

(Taking a break on the climb to Wilson Mesa)

Finally the Mesa opened up to a gorgeous view of a pond and my Baldy. \240Suddenly the sky opened up and rain began to fall followed by hail. We didn’t have any time at all to enjoy the view.

(The view at the top of Wilson Mesa)

We pressed on with rain gear and pack covers. We still had about a mile to go to get to Pueblano campground. We began a descent on a rocky trail leading to a valley reminiscent of somewhere in the Pacific Northwest. Douglass firs and aspen abound with a rushing stream enveloped by the green. Oh heaven! GREEN! We had reached Pueblano.

The programs here focus on lumber spar climbing and other lumber related activities. We sat on the expansive porch and relaxed for a spell.

There is a reason why gorgeous, lush scenery exists. Rain...and it was coming. The sky was grey and rumbling. We were hoping to set up before it hit. We were lead down a beautiful path next to the stream through the forest. We put up tents first, did bear bags and the crew cooked dinner. Those who weren’t tasked with cooking tried to get a fire going with damp wood.

We had wolfed down our dinner as rain began to fall. Thunder crashed and lightening brightened the gloomy sky. The storm raged and seemed to be about a mile away. \240We still had to clean up and get the remaining bear bags hung. The rain fell in buckets. My Frog Tog rain suit that I brought because it was lighter than my nicer set proved to be nearly useless. The crotch ripped out earlier in the day almost as soon as I took a step. I duct taped it up but the pants leaked like a sieve soaking my warm fleece pants. The rain jacket was too small in the arms so my warm light down jacket sleeves got soaked through up the forearms. \240The hail fell mixed with rain. The storm seemed right over head, but all we could do was try to put away our hasty dinner and make the camp ready for the night.

The deluge continued and there was chaos where we set up the tents. This campsite does not have a lot of space to put tents so we were all jammed in like sardines. The water came flowing down the path and pooling in the center of our tent town flooding several of our tents. We raced in the soaking rain to get the tents to higher ground. I battened down Clare’s tent as best I could as her father (James) had to deal with a wet mess of his own. Fortunately no ones sleeping bags were soaked through but some became damp. Most of us are out of dry clothes. I myself only have 1 pair of dry socks left and those are my sleep socks. I wish I brought my waterproof socks!!! Nearly all of us have soaked shoes to go with saturated socks. Many of us are fighting beginning stages of trench foot from wet stream crossings, sweat, and rain.

(Our dinner area at Pueblano)

The inside of my tent is dry as is my sleeping bag and sleep clothes. My hair is damp from the storm. Tomorrow we hope for sun so we can hang a line to dry out before moving on. \240Despite our little disaster here I still really like this moist little gem of a spot. \240Ahh Pueblano.

It was a damp, chilly morning. I woke up at 5:45 and didn’t want to get out of my warm, dry bag. My warm down jacket was soaked through up to each elbow and the waist area. It would make me cold to wear it. I donned my only dry long sleeve shirt and put my half wet raincoat on over that. So long as I was moving I was fine. I gathered all of my wet clothing and shoved them in a bag. The plan for today was to make a clothes line so that everyone could dry out. Two scouts had already begun boiling water for a hot breakfast and I got the JetBoil set up to make sure everyone got one hot drink. Call me nuts, but I’ve enjoyed this camp. It reminded me of camping in Vermont as a kid. Moist and cool.

(Finally a hot breakfast!!)

We set up a drying line and hung our wet clothes for the morning. At 9:30 we headed over to the spar pole climbing. I was excited to try it. Climbing up a 30-foot pole with spikes on my feet and a belt for hoisting looked like fun but scary. Liam and Cameron went first, brave souls. Pole Spar climbing is a sport but used to be a logger job often held by small women. They would climb up a tree a hundred feet up to lop off the branches to make a spar pole for logging. I had a blast with this and was so glad I did it!

(Liam getting ready to climb)

(Liam near the top!)

(Me Climbing!)

(Me at the top!!)

I felt exhilarated. \240I probably would have made a fair climber had I gotten into rock climbing earlier in my life. \240I really like it!

After pole spar climbing, we ate lunch at the cabin and then packed up our mostly dry clothes.

(Pueblano camp lunch spot)

We left Pueblano around 1:00 to start our 4 mile hike to Ewells Park. \240It was on a trail through a narrow stream valley. \240It was moist with beautiful wildflowers growing in the cool shade. \240Shooting star columbine, violets, wild roses, and strawberries lay scattered around the forest. \240The stream and trail were entwined together like mating snakes making for countless creek crossings over wet rocks. \240My feet were really starting to bother me. \240The blister on the ball of my right foot was getting larger and so was the one on my heel. \240I had a third one starting on the tip of my middle toe. \240

(The stream valley on the way to Ewells)

At the tail end of the hike the trail turned away from the stream climbing up hill toward Ewells. When we reached the meadow I found the view breathtaking. There were stands of aspens and a grassy expanse full of blooming iris.

(Beautiful Ewells Park)

We got to camp and put up the dining fly, stowed our packs, and strung up bear bags. We were scheduled to do tomahawk throwing at Miranda Camp and since we had signed up for it, we had to go there to sign in to prevent search and rescue from wondering where we were. I looked at the map. Two miles one-way and a long descent??? Really? I didn’t want to hike anymore today and now we had 4 more miles to go. We hitched up our day packs and began the long descent into the valley where Miranda camp lay.

(Hiking to Miranda camp)

As much as I didn’t want to go, the hike really was gorgeous. We got a stunning view of Baldy, the valley below, and surrounding forests.

(Headed to Miranda. Baldy in the background)

We finally reached Miranda camp and the entire crew raided the hiker box likebflock of wild vultures. \240We were all starved. Afterward we got set up to throw tomahawks. I did it, but really hated it. I was terrible at it. I’m not good at shooting and throwing sports. I prefer the climbing activities.

(Chucking Tomahawks)

We got back on the trail and began the long ascent. \240I thought I’d be miserable but I found the climb SO much easier than the descent. With only a day pack I felt like I could fly. \240

We got back to the camp and began the nightly ritual of camp set up and dinner. \240It was windy, chilly, with off and on drizzle. \240We sat around the camp fire until dinner.

(Trying to get warm)

Tomorrow we have a busy day. BlacksmithIng, gold panning, mine tour, climbing Baldy, and picking up final resupply. We will be up at 4:30 am. \240It certainly seems like too much packed into a single day. \240The plan is to be on the trail by 6:00, get to French Henry to do activities by 8 and once finished there, summit Baldy and finally end up at Baldy Town for resupply before 6pm. \240I fear we will be trying to summit the 12,400 something foot mountain too late in the day running the risk of getting caught in storms. \240We shall see. \240

(Mt Baldy)

Corrected date: June 18, 2019

Seems my Journo journal app failed on me this morning when I began to write. I had to start using the Notes app instead. That’s why the date is off. Sometimes good ‘old fashioned paper and pen really are better.

4:30 am came way too quickly. I began to get dressed in the cold, grey morning. Today was to be one of our biggest days. The plan is to hike to French Henry, do a mine tour, blacksmithing, and gold panning, summit Baldy, aim for Baldy Town to pick up resupply and then go back to camp. I’m guessing it will be a minimum of 12 miles today.

It was a clear day so far as we began the hike at 6:30. I was cold so kept my hat and jacket on.

All too soon we were climbing on a steep rocky road to get to French Henry. \240We reached the top of a knoll and descended a bit to a beautiful valley.

A crystal clean stream was running wild over the rocks and was flanked by wildflowers and happy green plants. \240The French Henry Cabin was a cool old minors cabin, real rustic in appearance.

(Gorgeous French Henry grounds)

We arrived a little after 7 and got a tour of the Aztec Ponil mine. It was creepy to listen to the horrible conditions that the minors had to endure, especially the children. It was dark, wet, and cold as we wandered through the tunnel with hard hats and flashlights. When we neared the end, our guide had us turn off the flashlights. He told us that back in the 1920s they used carbide lamps on their helmets. The dim light would last about 5 hours. They ate lunch in the dark and used another lamp for their second shift. While our lights were turned off he told us that we were standing below the grave of several minors who died in a cave-in. No wonder French Henry is one of the most haunted places in Philmont! \240Our guide also told us about Tommy-knockers, the long desceased restless spirits who lost their lives mining gold here and make noises in the old abandoned mine. \240As a joke our guide knocked on the metal gate blocking a collapsed tunnel. \240Our lights remained off. \240I knew it was him making the noises but then we heard similar noises that sounded like they were coming from much deeper in the mine where no one could humanly reach. \240Suddenly I heard an explosion. \240Bang!! I nearly jumped out of my skin. \240Our guide knocked on the metal storage box next to him to give us all a real fright!

(French Henry)

(Into the mine!)

(Gold mine tour)

Afterward the crew had a short time to try goldpanning in the creek before the blacksmithing.

(Gold panning)

(Trying to pay that college tuition)

Blacksmithing was cool but Liam was hoping they could each have had time to make something. The crew made a J-hook. \240One worked the billows while the other hammered away.

(Blacksmithing)

I noticed the clouds starting to form as we were beginning to pack up to begin our ascent of Baldy.

The worst part so far was the very steep rocky climb out of French Henry to get up out of the valley.

I was feeling completely exhausted today. I had all I could do to put one foot in front of the other. Even small steps made my heart rate fly uncomfortably. I could feel the altitude change for sure. Above 9500 feet felt like breathing through a tube while trying to run. \240Part of it may have been lack of descent food. We ate breakfast at 5:00 and it was now after 11. \240I was starving and all there was for lunch was diced ham in a pouch, a granola bar, and sunflower seeds.

We arrived at Copper Park, the closest camp near Baldy summit. \240It was located in the forest next to a green meadow. \240Here we could see the remnant snow piles under the trees. \240 The plan was to fill up water here, hike up to the top of the switchbacks and eat lunch just before the long ridge hike above tree line which leads to the summit. \240 Unfortunately the water source was broken. \240We had no choice but to hike back down a half mile on the steep path to where the creek was running. \240We still had about 6.5 miles to go and most of us were out of water. We easily lost an hour backtracking for water. \240Not good when clouds are gathering and you still have a 2000 foot climb to the summit. \240

With water bottles full we slogged back up to Copper Park. \240We were all hungry so we gave ourselves 10 minutes for lunch. \240I opened the cold ham chunks. I began to wolf it down even though it was crazy salty and quite gross looking.

(Snow at Copper Park)

With some sustenance, I felt much better. We started switchbacks and the trail was a gentle incline with good footing. I was doubting that we would be able to summit. The clouds had gathered and I heard a clap of thunder. It started to sleet, then hail. In a few minutes it passed over but looked like other storms were popping. Sure enough the choice was made to abandon our summit \240attempt. I felt totally defeated. I pushed back hot burning tears.

(The closest we got to Baldy)

James has summited Baldy in a Trek he took with his son. Jamie would be coming back when his younger son is of age. Me? In all likelihood I won’t have another opportunity to summit Baldy. I felt sad. Any energy that I had blew away with the storm.

We turned around. Ten minutes later the summit looked completely clear. We still had to get to Baldy Town before 6 to get our resupply. That was yet another issue. \240Even if the weather was clear we worried about missing our resupply deadline as we now had only 3 hours to complete the summit and get to Baldy Town totaling 6.5 miles. \240 We should have went for Baldy first thing in the morning. The John Muir Trail taught me that you have to get over mountain passes before noon.

To brighten everyone’s spirits we stopped for a while at the leftover snow bank in Copper Park. \240The gang had a snowball fight and enjoyed sliding down the hill on their bums. \240I did it too!

We descended to Baldy Town. \240We sat for a long while munching on chocolate and other snacks bought from the general store. \240Another small storm passed through. \240When it passed over we loaded up our last \240resupply and headed out.

(June in the snow)

(Taking shelter from a storm at Baldy Town)

(Baldy Town)

We had about a mile and a half to get back to camp. I was beyond tired. Uphill or downhill, it didn’t really matter. I had 4 blisters making it feel like I was walking on hot coals.

We got back to Ewells at 6. \240We finally got Mountain House spaghetti for dinner. \240Everyone gobbled it up. \240We haven’t been having very good dinners the past couple of nights. \240Last night’s was so salty we could hardly eat it at all.

I’m tired and looking forward to a more relaxed day tomorrow. \240I still wish I could stay hiking through wilderness but my feet need to heal, I need a hot shower and real food.

Corrected date: 6/19/19

The Journo app is still not working and my phone won’t charge via my Ankor battery. I’m not sure if it’s the cable or dirt in the charging port on the battery itself. Sigh...when technology fails.

Today is our last full day and was our morning to sleep in. I got up at 7:30 and began to pack up. Breakfast was Mountain House biscuits and gravy. Yum! I used the JetBoil again to give everyone some hot chocolate or coffee. One of the most special things I was able to do for others on this trek was to make hot drinks for them.

(Relaxing with hot cocoa and hot breakfast)

By the time we were ready to head out it was nearly 10:30. Our navigator decided to take the northern route back to Pueblano. This was the same route that we took the other day from Pueblano to Ewells, just in the opposite direction. I would have preferred the southern route through Miranda camp for different scenery, but this would have been longer. My feet were happier with a shorter trek.

(Leaving Ewells Camp)

(Beautiful Ewells)

I put the insoles back in my shoes and decided not to tape up my blisters. For the first few miles my feet actually felt about 30% better. I certainly had more energy today and felt great.

Our last full day. Tomorrow we catch the bus from Ponil Trailhead back to where this thing began. It feels like so long ago! There was a quickened pace today and a lightness to everyone’s steps. We were all looking forward to hot showers, real food, and seeing loved ones. As for me, I’m not really ready to leave the stands of aspens (with NO graffiti!), snowmelt creeks, green meadows, birds singing, and the simplicity of life lived out of a backpack. If this were a thru-hike I’d be taking a day or two to get rested, cleaned up, and rejuvenated before hitting the trail again. I can’t believe tomorrow is exit day.

We stopped at Pueblano for lunch. Ah Pueblano...the place of our little soaking disaster. Today it was warm and sunny with scattered clouds.

We lay on the cool grass and sat on logs while we ate our typical trail food.

(Munching at Pueblano)

(Lunch time at Pueblano)

By the looks of the map we only had 2 miles to go to get to Flume Canyon, our final camp. We were hoping to hike farther and camp someplace closer to Ponil Trailhead so that we wouldn’t have to get up at the ungodly hour of 4am, but staff insisted we stick with our itinerary.

We left Pueblano at 1:30 and made the rest of the way to Flume Canyon. \240Unfortunately another crew had already taken the best spot which was right next to the creek. \240We walked up a faint trail and found a junky site up the hillside. \240That’s okay because we have a beautiful creek here and because we arrived so early I actually had time to sit in my camp chair and soak my blistered feet and cracked, bleeding fingertips.

(Refilling the water bladders)

(Me sitting in my chair enjoying the stream)

An hour went by before I went back to the camp fire to join the kiddos.

Dinner was a variety of freeze-dried meals, some of which were collected from the hiker boxes.

Soon after dinner the crew did the usual evening chores of cleaning and putting up bear bags. \240It was an early-to-bed night as 4:30 will come all too soon.

(The last campfire)

Corrected date: 6/20/19

I got up at 4:15 to the chilly pre-dawn. \240I can’t wait to shower. \240My long-johns that I use for sleep clothes smell like bad cheese. \240The crew was quick to pack up and we were on the trail by 6:30.

(An early morning hike to Ponil)

We hiked the road from Flume Canyon to Ponil that followed the stream. The blister on the ball of my right foot had hardened and no longer bothered me. However, I had a blister beneath the callus of my right big toe and another on my heel. I was dragging today. The youth crew were flying. The three advisors hung back farther and farther. One of the advisors kept smelling something like meat stick burps. Sadly I think the smell was actually coming from me. I didn’t have any meat sticks, but I sure had some rank gas!

After Ponil we only had a mile to go to get to Ponil Trailhead and our bus back to basecamp. Everyone was looking forward to a hot meal and a shower. It’s no wonder why the kids were moving so quickly. When you turn a horse around, he’ll always lighten his step and quicken his pace to get back to the barn.

(Stream crossing on the way to Ponil)

We got to Ponil at 7, a full hour before any programs started. I just wanted to take a nap.

At 8 they opened up the branding station so we could get things branded. I opted to get my trail hat branded with the Philmont symbol.

(Cantina at Ponil)

(Ponil Camp)

(Ponil branding station)

The Trading Post general store was open. \240They had similar things as Baldy Town. \240I enjoyed chatting with the women at the register because her son was born on Maui and she lives in the East Mountains just like I do.

At 9 the Cantina opened and we all paid a dollar for an ice cold cup of root beer.

(Enjoying a rootbeer at Ponil cantina)

After our drink it was time to sling on the pack for the final mile to the Trailhead.

(The final mile)

We sat in the shade with what seemed like 7 other crews waiting to catch the bus. \240Our lead advisor, Jamie had tracked every single mile on this whole trek. \240Grand total? 107 miles. The other Maui-based crew told us that they had to hold the lightning position for an hour due to thunderstorms while summitting Baldy. That same night one of their packs was attacked by a bear. Other than the washout at Pueblano, our trek wasn’t as “exciting”. \240That’s probably a good thing!

(Ponil Trailhead waiting for the bus back to basecamp)

The bus arrived and we all piled in. We sat for a spell while the bus filled to capacity. I was eager for the bus to start moving as the “Philmont smell” was nauseating. No one likes the BO smell of arm pit and sweaty crotch, but every single one of us smelled that way. \240Finally the bus pulled away and we were rumbling down a dirt road. It was strange to see the Chase Ranch Trailhead area where we were dropped off nearly 2 weeks ago. We could see other treks on the trail just beginning their journey.

When we got back to basecamp we formed a pack-line to make sure everyone got their pack off the bus.

(Philmont pack-lines)

Next we went to dump our gear off at our tent city home for the night. It was hot, dry, and windy. It made me really miss rainy, green Pueblano and the much cooler mountain air.

Our first stop was to go through the process of returning our crew gear. Yay! No more 8 qt pots to carry!!!

(Good riddance 8qt pots!)

(The home bound section of tent city)

(All the cool kids are chilling at tent city)

(Hey dude, I just finished Philmont)

The returning of gear didn’t take too long and then we were on our way to lunch and a hot meal. We wolfed down bean burritos, salad, and rice. It tasted delicious. Afterward I spent way too much money at the Tooth of Time traders as I bought both Liam and myself Philmont leather belts with buckles, a jacket and shirt for myself, a hat and T-shirt for Liam. Well who knows if we’ll ever get back?

With the shopping spree out of the way we all took luxurious showers. \240I shampooed my hair twice because the first time the rinse water came out brown. \240It took me forever to find the adult women’s bathroom. \240I think they only have 1 and it’s all the way over in the “trail-bound” section of tent city. \240They really need one in the “home-bound section”!

Feeling human again, the next item on the agenda was for folks to do laundry in order to have clean clothes for tomorrow. \240Afterward we all enjoyed a cold treat at the cantina. I thoroughly enjoyed my soft-serve vanilla ice cream in a waffle cone! \240It was extremely hot here today so that made it all the more enjoyable.

(Ice cream for all!)

Dinner was at 5:45 and consisted of hamburger steak, rice, peas, salad, and cobbler. Man I keep eating like this and I’ll gain back any weight I lost in a single day!

After dinner was free time until the evening program started at 8. I went to the advisor lounge to charge up my phone. With the numerous outlets present, nearly every single one was taken.

(“Secret” charging station in the advisor lounge)

I felt tired, headachy, and my eyes burned. I knew I felt dehydrated and the burning sun could not go down fast enough.

We went to the closing program filled with campy (no pun intended) skits and songs. The crew leader from each group was awarded the “We all made it” plaque. The final song was the Philmont hymn and I could see the youth had their arms around each others shoulders. It made me tear up.

(Closing campfire skits and songs)

(Numerous Crew’s sit and enjoy the closing program)

(Crew leaders and lead advisors receiving the “we all made it” plaques)

I settled into my sleeping bag right after the closing program. \240There was still a lot of noise and commotion around camp but I was so tired it all felt like white noise. \240Tomorrow we get up at 5:15, eat a quick breakfast and be ready to catch our 7:00 bus back to Albuquerque.

Seems my Journo app is actually allowing me to document today. Later I’ll spend the long bus ride trying to transfer all of my journal for the past few days over to Journo. Yay!

I was so tired last night that the continued noises from the kids at tent city didn’t even bother me. I woke up at 5:10 to a chilly dawn with an acrid smell of smoke. As I stepped out of my tent to use the bathroom I could see the yellowish grey haze hanging in the air. Yuck. There must be a forest fire burning somewhere. \240At least I finally found the adult women’s bathroom in the “home-bound” section of tent city.

I was happy to waltz over to the advisor lounge and get myself a hot, steaming cup of coffee. Now why can’t we have these coffee dispensers just magically appear in the backcountry?

Breakfast was at 5:45 and pretty much consisted of nothing but sugar. Sugary cereals, processed fruit, real fruit, and packaged pastries. I’m going to need to cut back on the sweets when I get home.

I spent the last 15 minutes of my Philmont experience trying to charge up my old, ailing phone for the trip home. Then it was off to the welcome pavilion to meet out Blue Sky tour driver. We were all surprised and happy to see that Paula would be our driver! She gave us our tour during the first few days in Albuquerque. Too bad I seemed to have lost my Blue Sky nalgene and sunglasses.

The ride back was an uneventful quiet ride as I used the time to fix my journal. \240Most of the crew slept, sat quietly, or were buried in their phones. \240

As we neared the outskirts of Albuquerque, I could see the yellowish smoke haze in the air. \240The surrounding landscape looked barren and strange. \240Ewww! \240Twelve shades of brown. \240It was a typical June day without a cloud in the sky, hot, windy, and dry. \240June is my least favorite month here. \240Just got to endure the dry heat and hope for monsoonal moisture to be here soon. \240

We rolled in at the airport and said our goodbyes. \240I felt sad walking away but proud to be wearing my class A with my new Philmont belt and badge. \240

I don’t know if I’ll ever get back to Philmont. \240I don’t know what the future holds. \240I do know that at this time while my son goes through the throws of adolescence he no longer wants me around when he’s hanging with his friends. \240This makes me incredibly sad, but maybe it’s time for me to pull away and let him go on these things without me. \240I’ve been feeling this for a while but it was blatantly obvious on the last two major high-adventure scouting campouts we’ve done. \240I’m not sure what to do about it. \240I’d still like to remain active with our current troop and help out as a needed chaperone on camp outs, but how can I still do so when my son doesn’t feel he can be himself while I’m there? \240I wonder if my scouting career is coming to an end. \240They say the hardships of Philmont change a person and that they are not the same person they once were. \240For me, I’d say that’s true. \240I went into Philmont doubting my own abilities and my very purpose for being an advisor for youth. \240How can I compare myself to two strong military and public service men, both experts in scouting, survival, and first aid? \240I simply can not. \240I lack their honed skills. \240However, I grew to realize that there shouldn’t be a comparison at all and that I had some strengths of my own. \240I enjoyed my Philmont experience and understand why it is a coming-of-age rite of passage for scouts ages 14-21. \240Although I’m 46, it was a coming-of-age rite of passage for me too.