Travel days are rarely easy, but a leisurely late morning departure for Boston with a long layover was a good start. We took the train from the airport into the city and found a mid-March day of sunny skies and mid-50’s temps- a rare treat for Boston. We dined al fresco at Quincy Market while a musician played guitar and sang in the plaza nearby. We ventured over to the New England Aquarium which while an architectural train-wreck outside was a delight inside. We wrapped up our layover with a pint of local brew accompanied by live Irish folk music at The Black Rose, dubbed the “Fenway Park of Irish Pubs”. We returned to Logan Airport to muscle through the expanded check-in process in a Covid travel era and by 10pm we were on our way to Portugal! We noted that this is our first trip outside of the US in almost 2-1/2 years!

After a short layover in Madrid we arrived in Lisbon and took the train into Santa Apolonia Station. We didn’t wander far before we found a place to chill and eat some olives at an outdoor table. Walking the streets with luggage is complicated by the cobblestone streets, tiled sidewalks and steep hills. Found our way to Campo de Santa Clara where our apartment was located. Dined in Alfama at a cozy, casual outdoor space enjoying grilled chorizo and a seafood stew along with a side of pastel bacalau- or cod pastries.

We woke to strange yellow skies to learn that Portugal was in a Saharan dust storm- the weather was cool and windy without sunshine. We navigated the narrow streets of Alfama, dodging the old trams along the way. Took in the sights of the central city including the Carmo Church- now a museum- \240that was built in 1389. The roof collapsed in the 1755 earthquake and now the exterior walls remain as a reminder and frame an open-air portion of the museum. For lunch we had a huge bifana- garlic roasted pork sandwich- at Beira Gare- a place that has been serving these since 1890; the skinny napkins were no match for the bifana. Eventually we took the 28 tram back to the apartment. Dined later at Maca Verde and ate cuttlefish for the first time. A wine-stop later and we were spent!

Belem was a tram ride away at about 5 miles from Lisbon’s center. The area is an interesting mix of history and modern architecture. The Mosterio dos Jeronimos, built in the 1500’s is an elaborately ornate expression of Portugal’s wealth in the era of world trade. The Belem tower, also built in the 1500’s, stands as a stately guard at the entrance of the port of Lisbon where it has witnessed the arrival of traders and explorers for 5 centuries. Modern museums, monuments, and beautiful parks now spread along the waterfront. Wandered uphill into the Graca neighborhood that evening where we had a great meal at Vino Vero including fresh oysters and sardines on brioche.

A sunny day at last and we set off to the Castelo de Sao Jorge, atop a hill overlooking the city -not a long walk but all uphill. The history of this place is amazing starting with Visigoths (4th century) and the Moors 4 centuries later. It later served as Portugal’s royal residence into the 1500’s and as a jail sometime after. Vasco da Gama was welcomed here in 1499 after his return from India. Now it is a great place to view the city and wander the castle ramparts complete with noisy resident peacocks. Dined at Botequim that evening sitting outdoors in the Jardim da Graca park.

Rough start to the day having picked up a bug at some point but we weathered on. Took the train to Sintra- a town about 18 miles northeast of Lisbon. It is cooler and wetter than Lisbon and is lush with greenery. The town itself is charming with lovely squares and shops along steep streets, but the main attractions are in the hills above the town. The Palacio National da Peña is an 1800’s Disney-esque palace built atop a 15th century monastery that dominates the hills around it. Nearby, the ruins of the eighth century Castle of Moors is a stark contrast. \240We had taken a tuktuk to the top but thought walking down seemed like a good idea, but many miles later we thought otherwise. After a late return by train we opted for dinner at a local dive on the Campo nearby. The food was awful but the local crowd was amusing.

Forecast called for rain so we set out to see some modern architecture and visit a museum. Calatrava’s Oriente train station is massive and interesting but is sadly looking a bit weary. The nearby Parque das Nacoes is an area redeveloped for the 1998 Lisbon World Expo. It is filled with outdoor art, gardens, fountains, museums, an aquarium and more. The original Expo pavilion by Alvaro Siza Viera is unused today but is a striking piece of architecture. When the rain started we went to the Museu Nacional do Azulejo. Located in a former church and convent it covers the history of Portugal’s famous tiles. Dined at a small cafe near the apartment-Bistro Gado Pardo- where the owner chatted with us about food and travel while we ate.

Heading out of Lisbon we made our way to Obidos- an old walled city preserved close to its early design. \240Unfortunately it serves mostly as a tourist destination but we wandered off the main drag and enjoyed the area in some solitude.

The town of Alcobaca is dominated by the massive Monastery built in the 10th and 11th centuries. The church is the largest in Portugal. The most perplexing space, however, is the kitchen dating to the 1700’s. The ceiling was preposterously high and the huge fireplaces could reputedly cook 7 oxen at one time. A ridiculously huge stone slab table was set amongst “sinks” along the walls that were all bigger than bathtubs.

Stopped in Nazare to check out the surf. Even when the waves aren’t 90 feet tall they are powerful and intimidating. They crashed onto the beach creating a steep sandy decline into the ocean- no one was venturing in.

The late gothic Batalha monastery and church are a real contrast to Alcobaca’s simple grandeur. Built between 1388 and 1533 it is filled with ornate carvings, buttresses, and tracery. A chapel area at one end remains unfinished to this day and is a dramatic open-air tribute to the stone masons of the day. Ended the day in Coimbra with a nice dinner at Fangas Maior.

Aveiro was a perfect stop between Coimbra and Porto. Set in from the coast on a lagoon it was once known for fishing and seaweed farming. The lagoon was connected to the city by a series of canals crossed by pedestrian bridges. Today the colorful boats that once harvested seaweed take guided tours along these canals. Diving birds caught eels in the canals as we passed by. Aveiro is also Portugal’s Art Nouveau center complete with a museum. Had to settle for a small sandwich shop at lunch but at least we were able to get mustard on request- a first. Ended the day in Porto in a great apartment with a fabulous pizza to go from OKRA.

Porto Day 1. Although the day started out rainy it cleared enough by afternoon to allow for al fresco dining along the Praca da Ribeira. The riverfront in Porto feels more approachable than in Lisbon where the river there is more like part of the ocean. After lunch we ventured out onto the Luis I Bridge where people were walking across to Gaia on the south bank. We worked our way back and uphill along stone steps and steep streets often too narrow for cars to the Porto Cathedral. Feels like we may have reached our limit on cloisters, gilded altars and azulejo covered church walls, but we forged on. We had a great dinner in a small tasca near the apartment with an unusual after-dinner aperitif.

Porto Day 2. Slow start while we watch the skies clear- it is nice to have a comfortable place to linger over coffee. Walked through neighborhoods to the Casa da Musica. Built in 2005 and designed by Rem Koolhaas, the concrete shape is an unusual presence in the area. We continued our wanderings finding a great lunch spot, busy shopping streets, lovely parks and gardens and a cold glass of Super Bock. Dined in a charming little place - Folios de Baco-where they serve their own Douro wines and wonderful small plates.

Took a train across the Douro River to Gaia, the area opposite the main waterfront section of Porto, where they have been making and exporting Port wine since the 1600’s. We took in a small tasting at Kopke, the oldest port wine house. Tried a standard Tawny port, a 20 year reserved Tawny and a white port. They were all great, but the 20 year was superior. Opted not to go for the 30, 40 or more- pretty pricey and we knew we couldn’t afford them back home. Restaurants along the waterfront were serving flights of port and wine for 5 euros for 4 or 5 glasses. Dined at Callejero Comida, Mexican food with a Portuguese flair.

Drove an hour north to the mountains along the Spanish border to Peneda-Geres National Park. It isn’t like a US national park as there are cities and villages throughout the park. It is area that has been occupied since at least the 12th century and stone villages appear frozen in time. Odd stone graineries are located in most of the villages. Cows (and horses) wander the streets unperturbed by motorists. We stopped the car along a road and we’re approached by 4 huge dogs- fortunately friendly- that really wanted to get in the car with us. Stopped in Viana do Castelo- a beautiful city along the coast on our way back. Back in Porto we went to Museo d’Avo for dinner around 7:00. It appeared at first that all the tables were reserved but the reservations were all for 9:30pm. We were seated on the condition that we would finish by 9:30- not a problem.

Porto, Sunday. Wandered about the city for awhile and came upon an artist- Hugo do Lago- painting in his studio. We chatted some and he suggested we go out toward the beach and lighthouse-which we did. The waterfront was full of families and friends hanging out in the sun. Took the tram back up to Carmo. Wonderful day. Found dinner at a lovely place near the apartment, \240Idiota, good food and wine.

Headed into the Douro Valley in search of some good wine and scenic vistas. Made a lunch stop in Cinfaes where we ate in small local spot with no menu. We were served lots of meat, rice, potatoes and, of course, sardines. Stopped at Quinta da Pacheca where we took a fabulous tour and sampled some awesome wines and ports. The huge oak casks have to be used first for red wine for many years before being suitable for port. They are sold off after 50 years or so to Scotland for Scotch. Made our way along the river through Pinhao and far up the hill to Provensade. Awesome hotel - Il Morgadio da Calcada. The rooms - all 7 of them - are in old stables from the 1600s and the wines served are all made on the estate. We dined on small plates and house wine in front of the fire.

Drove further east along the Douro valley to Vila Nova de Foz Coa. A spectacular drive with elevations over 2500 feet. We visited a striking museum dedicated to the exhibition and preservation of archaeological art. The siting is amazing as the museum cuts into the hillside with the entrance just a slit in the structure- the entry walls either side only a few feet high- leading down to the museum below. The museum interior was more than just dramatically underlit- the lower level has a restaurant with panoramic views and no ceiling fixtures- no lights, no sprinklers, no speakers, no vents, etc.- just one lone smoke detector. Returned to Mogadio da Calcada-estate turned hotel- for dinner and dessert with 4 wines and 2 ports- quite the value at 45 euros each. The owner was on hand to describe the wines and provide insight on the renovations.

Guimaraes is known as the birthplace of Portugal as it is the reported birthplace of the first king and where Portugal declared itself a sovereign nation after defeating the Moors. The city has a medieval history and is a mix of the 10th century castle architecture and 1800s design. Made for a nice stop on the way back to Porto.

There is reportedly a saying that Porto pays, Lisbon plays and Braga prays. Braga does seem to have a church or cathedral at every turn. After a lunch, we drove a few kilometers out of the town center to Bom Jesus do Monte, an 1880s church built on a hill above the city with a spectacular staircase topped with religious figures, chapels and fountains along the way. Ended our day back at the apartment in Porto and dinner at Valentina’s- an okay pasta place.

Found our way by train to Matosinhos- a Porto neighborhood along the ocean where the docks and fish market are located along with numerous fish restaurants frequented by the locals. Also home to a huge, beautiful beach favored by surfers. The restaurants closest to the ocean - where they were grilling the fish outside- also included white tablecloths, couples sipping wine, and waiters in coats. A block in from these were simple places with paper covered tables, smiling waitresses, and locals enjoying long lunches of grilled fish- more our style. We ate mackerel and sardines at Cais a Doca and washed it down with draft beers. Excellent. Walked back along the beach a ways before catching the 500 bus back to Sao Bento where we had started. Had a light dinner at Taxca- a small plate spot.

Last day in Porto couldn’t have been a more beautiful one. Sunny skies and 60 degrees- great for just chilling in a park. The Museum of Contemporary Art Serrvales is set in a 40+ acre park with outdoor sculptures, formal gardens, elevated tree walk, naturalized areas, herb garden and even a large meadow with cows, horses and sheep. After touring the museum and having lunch in the cafe we wandered all about the gardens. Afterwards we made our way toward the river and back to Cais de Ribeira for one last goodbye to Porto. Lovely day, sad to leave. Returned to A Taska for dinner followed by drinks nearby in a wine store where they insisted we finish the evening with a shot of Portuguese liqueur- Chiripiti- on the house.

Made our way back toward Coimbra stopping at the Bucaco National Forest and Bucaco Palace. An unusual place atop a hill about 15 km north of Coimbra, the area includes a forest of rare trees hundreds of years old as well as religious sites dating to the 1600’s scattered throughout the forest. The convent served as the base camp for the English military fighting off the French invasion in the early 1800’s. The palace now operates as a luxury hotel.

We ended the day in Coimbra where we made a ridiculous stair climb to Coimbra University atop the hill. It dates to the 1500’s (founded in 1290) and the caped students roaming about look like they stepped out of a Harry Potter book. Visited the Biblioteca Joanina-said to be one of world’s most beautiful libraries. Built in 1728 it is known for the colony of resident bats that keep insects at bay. Stayed the night in a guesthouse above a former pharmacy where the lobby still retains the look of the old pharmacy. Had the best dinner we have had in Portugal at Tapas nas Castas. Really like the feel of Coimbra.

Left Coimbra and headed towards the Alentejo. The road wound up into the hills becoming a narrow, two-lane road with no guardrails. Arrived in Piodao, a hillside village of stone houses occupied since the 1300’s. Narrow footpaths connect homes and farms, with water running downhill alongside the paths through the village.

After lunch in Piodao we drove on to Marvao- a walled hilltop town and castle dating to the 12th and 13th centuries. Founded in the 9th century, the hilltop location was once occupied by the Romans, destroyed by the Moors and later rebuilt by the Portuguese. At 2,800 feet it is said to be the highest village in Portugal. While we made our way to the hotel a church emptied out and formed a procession through the streets carrying a Christ figure, banners and crosses and followed by a small marching band. Easter activities start early here. Had dinner at the Varanda de Alentejo restaurant across from our hotel.

After a huge breakfast in Marvao, we squeezed our way out of Marvao scraping the mirrors at least once. Traveled on through cork farms on our way to Evora- ultimate destination Lisbon. We attempted to visit Estremoz on our way and were routed through impossibly narrow streets by Google. Once in Evora, We headed for the Capela dos Ossos- or Chapel of Bones- where the bones of over 5,000 people decorate the walls and columns of this small chapel. Interesting and disturbing at the same time. Visited the Roman ruins as well- Portugal seems littered with Roman ruins including aqueducts. We were so enchanted by the cork oak trees that we tried to find an acorn but failed. Arrived back in Lisbon and settled into our small apartment in Alfama. Ate dinner at an outdoor Fado restaurant next to a couple from France. Our conversation was hilariously challenged by our lack of French and their limited English but our shared attempts at pronunciation was fun just the same.

Gray day in Lisbon, but still good for wandering about. Visited the Time Out Market for lunch - an amazing food hall in the Mercado da Riberia market. The market has been the main food market for Lisbon since 1892. \240It is still part fresh market and part fabulous food hall. The food hall options were excellent and varied. Large central stalls served a variety of beer, wine, ports and other liqueurs. Some stalls had an opposite side with bar and restaurant seating and even outdoor tables. It is apparently home to a number of Lisbon's top chefs. Octopus hot dogs were probably the most unusual offering. Dined at Vino Vero (again) for dinner and sipped more wine at Graco do Vinho. Good day for eating.

Last day in Portugal and it was a beautiful one- sunny and warm. Started off with a negative Covid test and it just kept getting better. Ate tinned fish for lunch at Sol e Pesca wandered about Bairro Alto. Came upon a review of the local troops by some dignitaries. Finished the day with a delicious dinner of octopus and clams at Mogadinha da Alfama followed by a nice port at an outdoor cafe. Time to pack. We will miss Portugal.