October 14

London bound to ‘see the queen’! 

The flight to Dublin was uneventful and short...what happens when you take a sleeping pill and it works. It would have been great to end the trip right there but we scuttled over to Ryanair for the next leg on to London! There is so much to know and I know nothing! Now that we are in the Uber I realized that I picked the wrong airport! It does get confusing when one is making all the plans and the plans change such as adding in London! I am pretty sure that it was London City...groan! On the other hand we are getting to see the lovely English countryside in the fall, high hedges and Tudor houses. I got excited to see black and white English cows! Our Uber driver, Jonathan is from Italy...sigh...is it a sign. It was wonderful chatting with him, but sad that so many Italians are leaving home because there are no jobs. Most Italians, like Jonathan just wish to be in their home country. He is so sweet to call us ‘madam’ and ‘sir’. Does that mean I am old??? It is a little frustrating to have to drive so far after a long trip. Part of my confusion could have to do with all the planning for different trips! Trying to get used to the other side of the road driving! Gatwick Express. As we get closer to London proper, the houses are right next to each other, lots of brick! Note to self- pull over to the left if an ambulance comes! Subtle differences: red double decker buses  and red telephone booths...tons of brick row houses including brick walls with tall ornate iron gates and dispersed amongst a stone church here and there...the Church of England, perhaps? Everything looks extremely important, but is probably not. We crossed over the oldest bridge then London! Just like that - the suburbs to the city! I would definitely say that London is a bit overwhelming... almost like New York. As soon as we arrived at the Omega Hotel, Bruce crashed for a nap and I spent the time studying the map of London. This is definitely the smallest room that we have ever stayed in - no tea kettle and not even a chair! It seems like it is in a great location, though, on a wide tree lined street. 

Next, off in search of an English Pub, but of course! Right around the corner was the Sussex Arms and we had a pint while we watched the first half of the England/Spain soccer match, and reminiscing about watching the Italian/Germany match while in Florence:)...the Italians were WAY more intense but then again it was World Cup Soccer. Off in search of food we went and ended up about two doors down at the Sawyers Arms for gin flights (Yes, indeed!) and late dinner: fish and chips/ burger. Day one is done!

October 16

Awesome early morning run in Hyde Park. I wasn’t quite sure where I was going so thank you google maps for getting me off the one street that we pub hopped on last night. Hyde \240Park was simply lovely with perfect landscaping, fountains and a lake in the middle that had a pedestrian path all the way around. What a great run! And the swans! I never saw so many! Such a treat. I just love to hang out in parks when I visit a new city. Settles my soul. I think the queen’s mounted guards were practicing formation or exercising in the park, although since they weren’t moving perhaps they were practicing standing still. What a great run with blue skies and the temp in the 50’s. Back at the Omega, breakfast was free but in the basement which was not that appealing, plus it was another flight on top of four! Then off to be the ultimate tourists on the Big Red Bus. Since neither of us really had a clue about London, we figured that this would be a good place to start. We rode around for about 45 minutes and ended up about right from where we started before we got into the interesting part. Perfect day to ride up on the open top with bright blue skies and temps in the sixties. We switched off to a cruise down the Thames at the Tower of London just to get off the bus! I thought ‘The Tower’ was actually a tower and that it would be ‘tall’! The Tower Bridge was impressive, yet the London Bridge was just ho hum., a regular old joe bridge that you would never know unless it was pointed out! Who thought of making world famous song about it?

Walking around we found Trafalgar Square and searched for Twinings; one of the most popular teas in the world and no one could tell us where it was! I do have to admit that it had one of the tiniest store fronts that I ever did see. We stopped for a beer and a snack at a wine bar (lol), and it was lovely to sit outside.

Next stop Fortnum & Mason for Afternoon Tea...lovely, lovely, lovely. Such a decadent treat. It was the best high tea I had ever been to...if there was something you did not like they took it straight away and if you really liked something then they replenished it! My kind of tea! And my was that tea delicious! I loved every moment of it. We had to follow this two hour respite with a tea shopping exhibition down on the first floor after we checked out the rest of the store. It was beautiful! We ended this day planning our morrow with a bottle of red in our closet room in the fourth floor walk up. 

Morning run Hyde Park!

Predawn run in Hyde Park was awesome but yesterday was prettier in the light of day. Today the swans were swimming in formation, a few swimmers doing laps (not sure how I feel about swimming in geese/swan poop water!) and boot camp just like home! The geese in London look like Mother Goose!

Buckingham Palace! Apparently to see the queen you must dress like the queen!

Bruce saw the queen! He said she was wearing grayish/blue! I saw her Rolls Royce drive by! Lol I think!

James McGuiness \240was our own personal 88 1/2 year old tour guide! Bruce latched on to him in front of the palace and so much for not staying for the thing. Scots Guard, Royal Artillery Calvery, etc. James was in the Irish Guard. Each gate is representative of an English province such as Canada, Newfoundland, etc. We couldn’t see the actual changing but we could hear the band...loved when they played The Beatles ‘Yesterday’ and ‘Hey, Jude’. 

We went to Fullers Ale & Pie for a traditional English lunch, partly because it was pouring rain and we wanted a warm spot. Found our later that this is one of two pubs frequented by Parliament. There is bell that rings when there is a need for a vote and they all run to Parliament.  

We met up with Ben for our Churchill and WW II tour...it was awesome! Amazing to see the War Rooms left exactly as they were on the last day when they just walked out and locked the door. 

October 18

5:30 am, quick run down four flights to get water for tea. The one time I didn’t bring our kettle! I thought for sure every place in England/Ireland would have a kettle! At least I got it down to one trip by remembering milk and the big cups for water. Out the door by 6:30 and I cab rode by!!! To Victoria Station and on to Gatwick Express in record time and off to Ireland we go! Riding through the early morning countryside is wonderful. Hopefully, Pete and Jean are not overly delayed.

We were delayed! Got in an hour late! I loved my first (second) peek of the Emerald Isle from the air! I promised Fran I would go back and here I am...as a citizen no less! The problem is that when I open my mouth I’m not! Haha!

Got our car and picked up Pete and \240Jean at the hotel they had booked for a morning nap then off to Dublin we went to find our apartment which was great except for having to car park it! One way streets and driving on \240the left hand side added to the misery. We walked into town, which was great and into the first pub we saw! Great atmosphere over this side and we meandered a bit more, walked over the Ha’penny Bridge, checked out the crazy Temple Bar and Temple Distillery (when in Ireland!?!)found another pub and home we went.

October 19

Great apartment! Pete and I walked around Dublin for about an hour in the early morning, touching moments were the famine sculpture down on the river and the pink cotton candy clouds as the sun rose. Found coffee and pastries to bring back but seriously you could get killed crossing the streets, especially if you are from Boston and are use to the other way! We all just chilled and then left at 11 which was checkout time. We had one super scary moment when Bruce took a hard right when it should have been a soft right (driving on the left!) “Look out! Look out! Look out!” And then drove through the pedestrian barrier to save us! We all took a while to recover from that one! Our first stop was Powerscourt, the number three garden in the world according to National Geographic...absolutely spectacular! We had a picnic with cheese and crackers and finished three bottles of wine from the night before! Probably a first on that estate! Ha! It was truly beautiful to walk around the grounds with its myriad of trees, the foliage changing colors with the Wicklow Mountains as a backdrop. There was a beautiful Japanese garden and a pet cemetery that included two cows! We had to leave much sooner than we had wished as we had a three hour drive ahead of us which included driving back to Dublin, seemed longer but highway or backroads was the deciding factor! Green meadows, cows and sheep all along the way...a part of my heart is reminded of the sisters and ancestors because they both loved Ireland so, but especially Fran when she showed me it all after she recovered from cancer the first time...long ago and yet yesterday.

The ride into Kinsale was a bit sketchy as the roads were narrow, country ones and I was now the driver! This coastal town is the same and yet different than I remember it and I think I am confusing it with Honfleur. It is filled with brightly colored shops, pubs and restaurants and seems quite busy indeed! Our new place is across from the harbor that is still quite full with boats and after settling in... we headed out to dinner just a block away at the Wharf Tavern in the Trident Hotel...good time had by all! Then we tried The Black Pig for an after dinner wine, but they were full up so we bought a bottle from the bar and took it home.  Good night from KInsale!

Happy birthday #31, Shawna! Got up about 6:30 and when 7:30 rolled around and no one was up I headed out on my own to explore. Awesome village! Yes, probably a bit touristy but also many glimpses of genuine Irish living, especially this early in the morning. The sun was just beginning to come up AND it was safe to cross the streets!!! I wandered up and down and all around...Kinsale is the epitome of quaintness!

As the four of us headed out to meet up with our Rick Steves recommended Barry the guide, we saw a bride and her entourage...quote of the day: “First time in my life I’ll be a stoppin’ traffic!” Later on the tour, we saw the groom and his best sitting outside Murphy’s Pub! Oh, boy! The tour was one of the best I’ve been on and Barry was a home grown boy that loved his history and gave us so much that we did not know. It was also a perfect amount of time. Barry was helpful in our search for Nana’s birthplace and I was thrilled that he knew ‘Desertserges’! Which was kind of a township. He also gave me what I thought was a great tip - go out of your comfort zone and talk to people, they are more than willing to help. Especially ask the older ones as they might have a connection. This would prove to be very helpful and encouraging. FYI we would not have gotten all that we did without it, me thinks! There were so many restaurants to choose from that we always had trouble...Jean could not get past the name, ‘Fishy, Fishy’ which we walked by all the time, so that was out. For lunch, we hit up ‘High Tide’, which was amazing. We shopped and walked around town...I was so reminded of Fran. Late afternoon cappuccino, espresso and tea was at the Cozy Cafe. We all agree that EVERY single person that we came in touch with was beyond friendly and nice! The three hung out at the apartment and I took a walk the other way..out of town. We lucked out all day with no rain just little spurts here and there. Again with where to eat and we ended up at Max’s...can I just say that I’ve never been served up a plate with just four pieces of penne! Yep...Max thought he was all that, but we were not impressed. Back at home we had wine and played ‘Name That Tune’. I am enjoying hanging out with Pete and Jean.

October 21

Family research day! The reason (one of them) that we dragged ourselves across the old pond! So much to write about and I wish that I had my computer rather than my phone! Morning run of a couple of miles along the Bandon River and out of town, over the ‘new’ bridge and then met up with Pete for a walk the other way out of town, after which we picked up some coffee and yummy scones at Jo’s Cafe. Honestly, the food in Kinsale is ridiculous! We all tried to get out early and on the road but it was close to 11. Off we went with a wing and a prayer to find the place of Nana’s birth with the location names of Bandon, Desertserges, Murraugh and Farrannasheshery! After miles of windy, narrow hedge lined roads, we went through Bandon in search of Desertserges, the only gps I got was the the name of two buildings. We questioned a man walking and he sent us to the crossroads and what happened??? We found a sign that said Desertserges! Golden nugget! It existed! A right we took and silly us, the first church, St. Mary’s (condemned no less) we see (can you imagine how many there are, here?) we pull over and start trampling through the cemetery in search of an O’Leary! This was crazy! The grass had to be a foot tall though it was bent and it was soaking wet which drenched us in two minutes. On top of that the ground was so uneven and riddled with broken hidden headstones and just sunken earth that it is no wonder that one of the four of us did not end up breaking something! No luck! We continue down the road a bit and come upon a well groomed, walled property with the signage ‘rectory’, and naturally rang the bell next to the gate from which a woman answered. I tried to get in the whole ancestral story into a few sentences but she stopped me with a “I’ll come out.” The gate slowly opened and we hesitated a bit not sure if she would actually walk to the gate or if we were suppose to drive in??? I walked in and they drove behind me onto these gorgeously manicured grounds with a rather large, stately, brick house crowning it. The whole family came out though the woman did all the talking. First off St. Mary’s is Anglican and ‘rectory’ is not the catholic term in Ireland! Amateurs! She tried to be oh so helpful and when I mentioned ‘Murraugh’ her face lit up and she gave us the directions to the Old Murraugh Cemetery, right at the crossroads, over two bridges then take a right at the navy house with the yellow door and you will come to a path that you might and might not be able to drive down and you might or might not get stuck on! She also gave us directions to the newer cemetary in Aioholl as a backup. LOL Believe it or not, we found it, just as she said. Over the wall we scramble and into the cemetery...seriously??? Slow on the uptake, me thinks! At least most of these headstones were upright and readable, but the ground was no better than the last cemetery and again we were lucky to survive unscathed! No relatives found, so what do we do??? And why on earth are we not going the paper route before we clambered over graves! Bring on the next cemetery in Aiohill. At least this cemetery was modern, paved and well groomed. I searched and searched and right near the end were some O’Learys! Whoohoo! I quickly snapped pictures of all the possibilities - I think I’ve seen every Irish surname there is! Off we went in search of the pint and ended up at  The Four Winds Pub owned by Andy and Mary. The doors were locked, but there were people inside! Bruce was not to be put off...there was not another pub for miles as far as we could tell. He gestured through the window and someone, Andy, opened the door. When Bruce asked, “Are you open?”, Andy gently replied, “We can be.” LOL and we all climbed out of the car and into the perfect neighborhood pub. The people inside were family and they were celebrating two members’ birthdays, one of which was Andy. They were all sitting around what appeared to be a den area which was directly open to the bar. They even offered us birthday cake! We got our drinks and started our detective work...Mary was actually from the area and told us a bit about it. Her eyes lit up when I mentioned Farrannasheshery! “I wish I could say that I was from there! It is the best name ever.” Agreed! It felt great to hear \240her acknowledge its existence! It is the name of a little local area that doesn’t ‘exist’ any more but it was right about where we came to the crossroads with the turn for Desertserges! Success!!! Mary also has ties to Quincy as her brother lives there! Small world indeed! We hung around for a bit and explored the bar...conversation topic for us - one pair of bright red ladies shoes by the door and another high heeled ones on the piano! Story, right? Mary laughed and said that the ones by the door were hers from the big birthday celebration from the night before and the others were left at the bar a week ago. She thought that by leaving them atop the piano the owner might see them upon her return! Both pairs were the best bright color cherry red! Red shoes always make me smile! Catherine Rose O’Leary...check! We found your neighborhood where you were a little girl and possibly the school you attended. It’s hard to describe the feelings, but there is almost something akin to justification for me. This is as thought. I will have to ponder a bit. 

Off to Milltown and onto the grandfather...Michael Joseph Sullivan. After much time on the endless country roads, we got on a main stretch, finally reached Milltown, Kerry - settled in/shopped and then walked down to the locally recommended pub, Larkin’s, about a quarter a mile away. After ordering our drinks and food we started our sleuthing again! Just so ya know... our waitress was not so open or smiley when we questioned her, but she said Mike, the owner, would be in soon and that she would send him over. As soon as Bruce saw someone that COULD be Mike, he called him right over. We chatted a bit and then Mike said he’d be back. This was so totally a locals place and the food was ah-mazing! Mike came back and oh the tales he told! First...lest I forget...anyone that dropped the beginning of their surname ‘drank the soup’! But, shhhh...don’t ever use that term! In  other words he use to be McCarthy, but somewhere along the way someone in the line towed in with the Prods so the beginning was dropped. Horrors! Are we only Sullivans instead of O’Sullivans because someone took the soup! I prefer to accept that the ‘O’ was dropped at immigration! Anyway, Mike was just great! He acknowledged that ‘O’Sullivan’s ‘ was across the street like I remembered, but that it was a pub, not a shop. Silly me! Upon questioning about the house on Callanafersy West, he was pretty sure that they were not our relatives but that Patrick Vincent O’Sullivan lived there and he MIGHT talk to us if we knocked on his door. Mike, himself, would be happy to go down with us the next day if we met him at the pub. I showed him the pics that I had from when Fran went long ago (25 years?) and he recognized the places right away. The dots were connecting here, too. I just feel a little settling in my soul.

Kinsale Harbor

October 22

Off for another sunrise walk. I am really not liking an eight am sunrise but finally figured out that it was because we are so far north. After my walk I met Pete four our walk. For every single kind of business that there is in Milltown, and most of Ireland for that matter, there is at least ONE pub...if not two! Bruce found an article on THE Mike ‘Larkin’ McCarthy and it was all about his spreading of rumors and tall tales! Perfect! Hahaha.

Shopping in Milltown must only be done at the gas station which was less than 1/4 mile away from our house...fresh produce, baked goods and liquor! Jean is now completely hooked on the G&T!Mike has given us tips on driving the Ring of Kerry, but of course we messed up and ended up driving through the middle of it, which wasn’t too bad, but we were doing the reverse of Mikes advice. The roads were ridiculously narrow and I mean ridiculous! Luckily there was little traffic except for sheep and cows...mostly sheep and often in the road. First stop was Sneem...what a quaint little Irish town! We walked around a bit and then had a cappuccino, espresso and tea outside in the sun at Kelly’s Bakery. Pretty perfect! Unfortunately, I left our picnic lunch at home so we had to stop at the little grocery to get supplies. There were some really elderly micks in there... too bad we weren’t from Sneem...we probably would have hit Golden information! The sun shone all day and the Kerry Ring was spectacular. Highlights include: stopping at the beach, Skellig Michael and Little Skellig as well as Skellig Chocolate! Too many samples and delicious to boot! The Kerry Cliffs were amazing and we spent quite a bit of time there mostly because the weather was great and  the sun was shining in a bright blue sky. It was a long day and we were all ready to be gone with the driving, probably Bruce most, but what an awesome way to spend s day in Kerry, Ireland. Back to Larkin’s for dinner, no crowd, new waitress and no Mike. We all got the greatest Irish Beef Stew and savored every morsel. After, we decided to share the wealth and hit the pub across the street, Langford’s,  because we thought there was live music. Big. Mistake. Bruce did the ordering and getting a lime was craziness! These were definitely a bit of a tougher crowd and we left soon as we could. Great day in Ireland!

Roots

BE MORE HELPFUL AND KIND

This past year I worked towards getting my Irish citizenship...why?...because it was possible. Having lost two sisters in a bit over a year made me look at family and who I am because I am a member of that family a little bit closer. I also became very aware of what my own legacy would be. What did I want my people to remember and carry forward relating to me. There is so very much that we take for granted, even when we try not to!  My sibling place, gender and age all played a role in forming the me I am today, as well as my heritage.  Both of my sisters that passed were very much into their Irish roots or at least more into them than I was. Then again, they each lived the single life and I was married with three children, on top of which my husband was Sicilian, so that ancestry had to be woven into our little family, too. (To add to the confusion...I fell in love with Italy from the day I first set eyes on her!) I truly believe that the dots are indeed connected...our past experiences connect and drive our future. My younger brother mentioned that he wanted to go for his Irish citizenship and it was like fireworks went off! I think that I actually had a swivel neck experience! I was in! It was just the right thing for me to hear at the right time. What is the point, one might ask? Well, if I am a citizen of the EU, then I can live anywhere in the EU! Do I plan on moving to Europe??? Not at the moment, but another door is open and let’s face it...as you get older, not so many new doors are opening up, if you know what I mean. Life can be so busy, complicated, easy, difficult and hard,  on a whim it seems...but...on top of that...it can get smaller. I am the first to admit, that while I put on a good show, moving to Europe , even for a short time, could be a bit stressful:) That being said...a piece of my heart and soul belongs there...I’ve traveled enough to know the ‘feeling’.

So...here I am on the middle of Kerry, on the eve of showing my brother where our gramps is from. We hung out in the town near where his home was and had a drink in the same pub we imagine he lifted his own glass in with his mates:) It’s hard to imagine and yet, at the same time, tis not that hard at all. We walk the streets and wonder, ‘Was he here?’ ‘Are we walking in his footsteps?’ ‘Did he have a pint in this here pub?’ I don’t know...there is some comfort in looking to the past...it helps to define us. At the same time, I look to the future and think of those that come after me...they are part of me and I am part of them...something to ponder for sure. 

Right before we came to Milltown, we were in search of our grandmother’s roots...we got our citizenship through her, after all. We had barely anything to go on...a name, approximate birthdate and an area...not even an exact town. FYI...we barely knew our grandparents since we were the youngest siblings and spent our early years 100 miles away from them. Suddenly...through research...we came up with three locations that were Greek to us. We booked our flights and the dots continues to connect...way too much to write here, but we ended up in a lone standing pub in the middle of  COUNTY Cork, between or close by Aiohill and Desertserges (RIGHT!?!) and I actually heard: “ Oh! I wish I were from Farrannasheshery! It is such a beautiful name to be from!” (That was said by Mary who owned the pub that she and her husband Andy, opened up just for us four American mongrels that knocked at the front door on a Sunday morning!) Can you even pronounce it??? I was floored! Imagine that this little neighborhood near Bandon, that I had never heard of was legit! My grandmother grew up here! JEEZ! If the elders had only shared this information I would not have had to go through all of this!!! But, then again...I would not have had this beautiful journey:)

So here I am, in Ireland, at he cemetery my great grandfather is buried in. As we were getting ready to leave, an old Irish man came walking down the path and we had a bit of a chat in which he asked which grave was my great grandfather’s and upon showing him he exclaimed “That’s my grandfather’s grave!” We were both completely shocked, thinking that there were no relatives on either side of the pond! It was such an amazing experience and one that is hard to put into words... at the very least...it settled my soul a bit knowing that I had my own people here in the ancestral land. Roots! Imagine if I had never taken this sabbatical...

Seagulls

Pete and I did our early morning walk in Galway, down around Quay Street and to the Spanish Arch where a seagull promptly crapped on me which meant laundry had to be done, then we stopped for a capp at a little chain cafe and sat outside. The Irishman next to us started chatting us up and I just love that. It gives you a true insight into the people, culture and daily life. Once we all got cleaned up and packed we met up at Esquires for breakfast and I believe Pete won for best...unless you consider my gluten free brownie with homemade whipped cream and chocolate sauce a contender! And hen, sadly, we went our separate ways...we had such a great week together and it was awesome discovering our family roots and relatives together! Off they went to Germany and Bruce and I headed further north along the Wild Atlantic Way toward Roundstone. The scenery was filled with rock walls, cows, sheep and swans as well as all signage in Irish, to the backdrops of open ocean and quaint villages. We stopped at Screebe House for lunch but actually got turned away because of filming. Too bad...it was a huge mansion on pristine, beautifully manicured grounds. On to our new home...a small Irish cottage on the island of Inis ni.

Saturday October 27

Moving day again! Three nights is the right amount of time to stay in a place when you are on the move,  although two could be enough for some.

Beautiful ride from Clifden north...no one on the road and we had rainbows and sheep dodging! We stopped in Killary Harbor for a bite...I only had a cappuccino but Bruce got a pile of bacon with a side of scrambled. Not the best food, but the owner suggested that we take the long way by the sea and it was spectacular! It took twice as long because the views were so great. The Twelve Bens had snow on top which added to the magic of the morning. We stopped at the Famine Road monument and it was quite touching and sad. Croagh Patrick was in front of us for the second half of the ride which was awesome. We hit the quaint little tea shop downtown for lunch and ordered bikes for the next morning.

Sunday October 28

The reason I wanted to come to Westport was to bike the 26 mile Greenway. Sorry...but I am just not brave enough to actually bike the roads of Ireland! The weather had turned pretty chilly and we weren’t quite sure we were up to it, but...who wants to get old? So...off we went

Nevins gorlunch

John J. O’Malley ‘s

And home to a fire and grilled cheese

Rainbows 6! I was hoping for one when we got home, thinking that it couldn’t be possible but there it was! Off to Clifden to hike...we each packed every coat we had not being sure of what the weather would be! First stop in Clifden was Cullen’s for a leisurely tea and a cappuccino...Bruce read the paper and I sketched. The rain storms were. I’m if and going in waves and we walked around town checking out shops until lunchtime and we hit on

Mitchell’s...great atmosphere as we sat by the fire with a glass of red watching  an actual snow shower as we ate - I had the best mussels ever! Tried a few more shops for specifics...no luck then off to Sky Road Drive which was suppose to be super scary! These people need to go to the southwest! The first part was clifflike and beautiful, but the clouds were low so our view was diminished quite a bit.

We watched the rugby match on tv which was announced in Irish! Hello!  Trying to figure out the rules! Thank you google:)

October 23

Up and out for a couple mile walk and met Pete at the laundromat (between the gas station and the church!) to figure out how it works then he walked on and I went home to shower and pack...moving day again! We had to be out by ten and just made it. Quick stop to switch the laundry and buy breakfast at the gas station then off to find grandpa’s cottage at Callanafersy West on Dingle Bay. I almost had it down but we did get a smidge lost and asked for directions and then we were there! It was just as I remembered it. Where Fran said his house was stood a gym...same building as when we went. We happily took pics and were off on our way when we drove by a broken down traditional Irish cottage. THIS was the place! Woohoo! 85,000 pictures later and we were scheming how to get hold of it. Happily, we went on our merry way to find the Killagha Abbey and another cemetary to trample through!