We are weary already! \240In terminal set to depart for New York in 2 hours.
We left Atlanta 12:50 pm and arrived @ JFK in New York about 3:30 pm. This was a 5 hour layover in New York. \240The flight of New York was delayed a little…. The departure was @ 9:12 pm.
\240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 Waiting.
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We arrived at the Edinburgh Airport 30 \240minutes ahead of schedule. We were to get a private Taxi and wasted an hour trying to \240contact the company. Finally we got on a tour bus whose last stop was 4 blocks from the Hilton Edinburgh Carleton where we will be staying.
We walked the distance to the hotel. It is lovely and big, a “newer” Hotel in the middle of Brownstones.
The grand Statue of Adam Smith
“….was a Scottish economist and philosopher who was a pioneer of political economy and key figure during the Scottish Enlightenment. Also known as "The Father of Economics" or "The Father of Capitalism". He wrote two classic works, The Theory of Moral Sentiments (1759) and An Inquiry into the Nature and Causes of the Wealth of Nations (1776).”
A bagpiper in Day Dress. It is the more comfortable to wear and not as stifling on long hot summer days
Two very different pipers we heard today. This one with a feather bonnet made of Ostrich feathers is a 1st class uniform, very expensive to purchase.
These formally dressed pipers tone was richer, deeper, and more vibrant.
Allie took this picture of a Welsh Corgi.
Saint Giles Cathedral: \240Built I the 14th century. Hard to get external \240pictures because the city has encroached on the property.
Most of the roads in this area are cobblestone. Very uneven walking.
I love the detail in the carved stone for the lectern.
….and I found a great Harris Tweed hat shop! \240Always need a good wool cap for the Summer 😎
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Today has started slow. Breakfast at the Hilton Edinburgh Carleton where we are staying is buffet. Nothing minor: haggis, blood sausage, meat sausage, pork links, scrambled eggs, poached eggs, fried tomatoes, oatmeal, English bacon, sweet rolls, Bread, toast, sourdough, berries, bananas, melons, yougurt, milk, teas of black or green, herbal teas.
One thing about good English/Scottish cooking is that confections are made of mild sweetness. Cream is generally not whipped and sugar in cream is not done. So the palate is not overwhelmed by sweetness, however flavors are made more distinct.
Today is tour Edinburgh. Jay and Pauline are out on a bus tour. I came back to the hotel room after breakfast and fell asleep for 3 hours. What a vacation!
Allie and I went shopping down “the Royal Mile”. The Royal Mile is on High Street. At the eastern end is Edinburgh Castle. Portions of the Castle are museum. For the most part it is an active Signal Military post. We were there on tour 4 years ago.
At the Western end of the Royal Mile is the Palace. We did not visit the palace. The mile is, from the palace to the castle, at least 4-5% incline. \240On cobblestones. Not a problem for healthy people.
There are many establishments for eating and drinking, as well as fine cashmere and woolen goods/textiles, sweet shops and confectioneries.
A few changes I have noticed this time around: 1) the famous red phone kiosks are in place but non-functioning, many vandalized. Everyone has a cell phone, 2) many businesses have going out of business sales, closing up with new lease signs in’t windows.
The weather today was mild, in the md 50s with light sprinkles.
Another of the pipers. He was playing the famous tune “Scotland the Brave”.
A tour guide with a small group of 6, walking the “mile”. There are many of these tours all day up and down High Street.
The Closes
Closes are narrow pedestrian walkways (for the most part) closed in alleys to inner courts within a city block. Sometimes there are several in a block. There are business, eateries, and residences beyond the Close. Below are a few.
Sir wWalter Scott’s Monument can be seen in the distance through the Advocates Close.
The Close below is Montieth’s Restaurant
Allie facing the bracing breeze.
The year round Christmas shop. Just for Rachel.
Just outside side a great clothing store. The best Jackets and kilts and sweaters.
A wonderful proprietor.
Childrens kilts
The old corner of the old Castle wall. The signage tells the story.
And of course…..
This is our view outside our hotel room. As I said the building is repurposed.
After touring today we headed for dinner. We heard an argument, not surprising in Scotland, and saw Batman railing on a man with his dog. We saw Batman yesterday. Might be his only outfit. He definitely was under the influence of something other than water.
Our evening meal concluded here at the Filling Station. We were well fed and cared for. Our server was superb. When Pauline asked about her service at the restaurant the server opened up and told us she had been there 6 years working her way through university with a degree in fine arts. She gave her website which is quite impressive. She is a Polish emigré with a very captivating story to tell.
And….finally our magnificent view from our hotel window. I did say that the Hotel was a repurposed stone building 2-3 centuries old.
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Today we picked up a rental SUV and left Edinburgh for Inverness. Probably a 3 hour trip. I ordered a taxi this morning for 10:30 which picked us up at the hotel and took us to the Enterprise rental.
The taxi driver was caustic, talkative and quite down on us going to Inverness. “Why Inverness?”, he says. “It’s tiny, ugly and filthy.” \240I asked if he’d been to the US. “‘Y aye mate, plenty times I’ve been thar.” \240Have you been to Grand Canyon?”, I asks. “No, why?, he says. “Because it’s big, ugly and filthy!” \240He was quite the character.
We set off at a right pace. And, after 30 minutes Jake and I switched navigator and driver roles.
We stopped a couple of times and ate lunch at a Bruar Restaurant. Check out their web site here: https://www.houseofbruar.com.
Acclimating to driving on the left took a few minutes. As traffic was slow in the inner city. It afforded time to mentally adjust. \240However, we were out on the open road when Jake started. He had to adapt quickly and did so perfectly.
We arrived at Drumossie Hotel around 4:40 pm. \240It was brisk and windy when we arrived. I will take pictures tomorrow or the property. The Hotel is a repurposed Manor House of 9-10,000 sq ft. \240Of the carriage way, hidden among the pines and hardwoods. It is getaway place for those wanting anonymity, quiet and respite.
We will tour Loch Ness tomorrow.
Once we were out of the messy city avenues of Edinburgh the road light travel. Some of the way was single file , some Dual Carriageway.
The scenery is terrific!!
Plenty of hills.
Grazing cattle….
….and grazing sheep!
We had rain, or sprinkles most of the day. That was lovely.
As we neared Inverness there wa a significant logging operation off the carriageway.
A few patches of snow are evident in the higher country. This is not, according to our early morning taxi driver, the Highlands. \240The highest peak in all the British Isles is Ben Nevis at 4,413 feet above sea level. Our trip today took us close to 1,400 feet. As I write at the hotel we are at 540 feet.
Our room has a view out to Scottish pines and sheep grazing in the distance. The room is well appointed and quite comfortable.
Happily the facilities are equally comfortable and up to date. Much more roomy here than at the Hilton.
Evening meal was was Ribeye, jenga new potatoes, broiled tomatoes, and an awesome dish of mushroom/artichokes in white sauce.
Raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries with lightly sweet Panna Cotta (flambé like).
MacDonald Drumossie Hotel pictures.
The little electric “grand” i will not play.
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What a day! \240We woke to heavy clouds and a promise of 100% chance of rain 100% all t’day. We endured a little rain and sprinkles in’t mornin’ and all sun for the day.
We breakfasted at the hotel, then drove 6 miles into Inverness to ride a 16 passenger Mercedes Tour bus \240around Loch Ness.
The Loch is a Lake….Lake Ness. The origins of the “water serpent” date back over 1500 years. The first recorded sighting was by a Christian Monk 500 something AD. Never proven,, never disproven. Much of the lore of “Nessie” is current because of a 1933 black and white photoshopped photograph a Doctor took of his sons toy. The story was believe took, but took some time to debunk.
The Loch is 22 miles long, at most 1 mile wide. The deepest section is nearly 800 feet deep and the average depth over 400 feet deep. Loch Ness has more volume of water than all the other lakes/lochs in Scotland/Wales/England combined.
We continued on to the south end of the Loch where we stopped, had lunch at The Lock Inn. Really good Pub food. The Fish and Chips were great. \240We walked over one of the locks that were built to save time circumnavigating the north of Scotland in the early 1800s.
Continuing on we traveled north towards our point of origin. We stopped at hotel north of Urquhart Castle. This was a busy stopped for many tour buses. Passengers that wished crossed under the road took an hour long boat trip down to see the Urquhart Castle, a castle that is only a shell of a place.
The tour around the Loch took about 7 hours. We stopped at the north end, here at Dores when the weather was still a bit bracing.
Looking south down Loch Ness.
We stopped at Foyers Falls for a bit ‘o rest and leg stretch. Did not see the falls, which required a steep descent/ascent, however the view was spectacular.
A little cottage on the hills overlooking Loch Ness.
As we climbed in altitude we moved away from the Loch. The land became more barren and bleak. Very few trees. \240
The view from the top. Loch Ness is not visible here.
A small Loch in the foreground.
Returning closer to Loch Ness.
The pastoral scenes of sheep amid the new spring green grasses was serene.
A manor house at the south end ofLoch Ness. We are now in the village of Fort William Augustus. Named for one of England King George II’s sons. William Augustus was the responsible military officer leading the expedition to rout the Jacobites and put down the rebellion in 1746. The rebellion had won a decisive victory on 17 January 1746, however, the English reinforcements mercilessly routed and slaughtered any Jacobites found wounded on the field of battle.
For the next 35-40 years the culture of the Scottish clans was proscribed. No kilts, no speaking garlic, no bag pipes, no clan association. This resulted in many Scots leaving the highlands and moving to Edinburgh, Glasgow, into Northern England, many moved to America, and Australia.
This Peteol sign says: 167.9 pence per litre unleaded. A much higher price than in the US.
The Caledonian Lock.
Our lunchtime.
Looking from the Locks towards the Loch.
These direction signs in Yellow are Gaelic, followed by English in White.
Inver means “river mount”. This sing reads Invermoriston. So, Inverness = River mount Ness, etc.
Looking across Loch Ness at out Urquhart Castle stop.
Surrounding landscapes.
The crowded boat with 100+ aboard. Glad I wasn’t there.
Map of Loch Ness.
Our tour concluded close to 5pm. We had thought it would be a wet rainy day, however, we had sun and good travel.
In the evening we came back in to Inverness for dinner at The Waterfront. A great pub. We will visit again tomorrow evening.
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The prospects for today were dismal. Rain all day? And blustery wind. We saw little rain/sprinkles in the early evening. Thankfully no rain during ‘t day.
Around 10 am we headed to the Culloden Battlefield. This battle was fought and over in approximately 60 minutes. It was a colossal mistake by the Jacobite cause.
The battlefield is in middle of the picture below. In the foreground is the new/modern museum and Scottish monument memorializing the battle. For more information on this battle here is a wiki link: \240 \240https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Culloden
The battlefield had marshy knee deep bogs that hindered the Jacobites movement. It was cold, rainy, blustery(as today), the Jacobites had marched 10 miles during the night to surprise the government forces. Changed their plans and returned 10 miles. We’re in the worst shape, hungry, cold, tired, and dejected.
When the government troops arrived around noon on 16 April 1746 the 5,000 Jacobites were out of position and unprepared for tthe 8,000 government well-regulated troops who were well rested, feed and in good spirits.
Memorial placed in the 1800s.
Some of the stones placed to mark the mass graves of the Jacobites.
The Leanach Cottage built in the early 1700s. The only remaining structure (restored in the 1930s) that was last occupied in 1912, that existed at the time of the battle.
Allie & Pauline
Jake & Pauline
This experience was a disconcerting one. Nothing honorable was done there. The cause was not one of religion but regal preference. So much waste of blood and treasure.
We were cold and tired from the tour which last about 2.5 hours. Ate some cake and shortbread with herbal teas at the museum restaurant and went back to the hotel for the rest of the day.
At 7:30 pm we were back at The Waterfront for another evening of fine Scottish dining on pork, venison, beef, chicken, and great cheeses.
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Friday May 13th was driving day. \240I drove the distance and was too tired to write on the 13th.
We had to turn in the rental vehicle by 3 pm so we had an early start after breakfast. \240We were off and “running” by 8:turrrty as the good Scotsman says.
It was a beautifu, full cloudy/misty day. The drive down to Glasgow was, for three quarters of the way, back t’wards Edinburgh, then a shift west.
We saw the reverse landscapes and there were many more beautiful scenes that we hadn’t caught when we had come to Inverness on Tuesday.
Just 20 miles outside Glasgow is Stirling. Stirling is off the main carriageway 4-5 miles. The village is built up on the hills rising up out of the valley. At the promontory of the hills is Stirling Castle. We decided to have a look see.
Not having much time to spare we basically took pictures of the village, ancient walls, church, streets, the exterior of the castle, and the overlooking views of the valley.
Robert the Bruce: \240
One of the old curmudgeonly blatherskites we see on the streets o’ Scotland.
This yellow field in the below picture is rapeseed. Rapeseed is the third largest source of vegetable oil in the world and the second largest source of protein in the world!
We are staying in the Doubletree hotel. Dinner on Friday evening was in a basement restaurant. Stark and dimly lit. However, the food was good, with international mix. The presentation was good the portions medium, and the crème brûlée….amazing!!!
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We headed to the pre-flight antigen testing site after breakfast. Our Uber driver was loquacious. We enjoyed a good bit of banter.
Because th UK covered/governed a large commonwealth the diversity here is not in hidden pockets. It has been interesting to note the variety of cuisine: \240Indian, Mediterranean, Japanese, Chinese, Scandinavian, American, and then there are places that mixed the cultural foods; US/Peru, Mediterranean/Indian, Japan/Chile, etc. The admixtures were very good. The Miskito had amazing desserts. The crème brûlée with raspberries blew my budget. \240I had to have two.
Glasgow is not a pristine city. This was a bustling manufacturing and shipping center till after WW2. At one time there were over 60 ship building locations along the river leading out to the Irish Sea. All of this failed after WW2.
There appears to be a great amount of renovation, renewal, and restoration going on, however, it is a city of at least 160 decades. Founded about 500 AD, approved as a city abt 800 AD.
Many areas of the city are rundown, office buildings abandoned, streets are generally dirty. However, there is aplenty o’ history and knowledge to gained from a visit here.
Scotland is the birthplace of great artists, novelists, poets, scientists & mathematicians (Robert Fulton, James Watt, Sir William Thomson Kelvin), medical doctors, (Dr. Joseph Lister-antiseptics & surgery). \240We saw statues of Robert Burns, Robert Louis Stevenson \240(Kidnapped , Treasure Island) Sir Walter Scott (Ivanho, Waverley), and more.
Our Hop-on-Hop-off 21 stop audio guided tour in the afternoon took 2 hours. \240We never got off, just took photos from the bus.
We started here at George Square. \240Named after King George III and initially laid out in 1781 but not developed for another twenty years, George Square is surrounded by architecturally important buildings including on the east side the palatial Municipal Chambers, also known as the City Chambers, whose foundation stone was laid in 1883, and on the west side by the Merchants' House. \240Built by Glasgow Corporation, the Chambers are the continuing headquarters of Glasgow City Council. Joseph Swan's panoramic engraving of 1829 shows the early development of the square and its surrounding buildings.
The square boasts an important collection of statues and monuments, including those dedicated to Robert Burns, James Watt, Sir Robert Peel and Sir Walter Scott, whose statue rises above all others and is central to the square.
One interesting bit is the statue with a traffic cone.
For some reason every Saturday there is a home game of one of the football teams the cone goes on the statue.
A little couple being fêted for something as we passed by.
This commemorative tower is in the middle of the city green. The tower was the first in all of England erected in 1806 to commemorate Admiral Horatio Nelson (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horatio_Nelson,_1st_Viscount_Nelson).
The Glasgow Green is a very large park at 136 acres. First established in the 15th century. \240
The city green.
The oldest continuous pub in Glasgow, since the 1790s.
The area of the arts.
Another cone head. It’s game day.
One of many individuals who carry on their cultural traditional dress though they may have been borne and raised in Scotland.
The bridge over the river Clyde.
The Glasgow Opera House. The locals call it the “Armadillo”.
The 12,000+ seat multiuse arena for sports, music, etc. Rod Stewart was the artist who performed at the the grand opening/dedication.
The largest 360 deg wind turbine in the world, over 100 metres in height. \240
The Glasgow Kelvingrove Art Gallery.
The University of Glasgow.
St. George Street is an iconic picturesque place. Used to be housing for the wealthy town folk where servants were in the basement and the family was upstairs; thus, Upstairs/Downstairs, a BBC episodic TV show from 1972 on. \240The apartments we’re later used for the solicitors and professional class. Nowadays these apartments are again the residences of the newly \240affluent.
Looking back at St. George Street.
Famously, in 1765, the Glasgow Green was the site of a historic inspiration: The inventor James Wattwas strolling across it when he hit upon the idea of the separate condenser for the steam engine. This invention is credited by some as having sparked the Industrial Revolution.
Stone commemorating James Watt's inspiration. Is located near the Admiral Horatio Nelson commemorative tower on the Glasgow Green.
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An early start today, May 15th! \240 The airport van pickup was to be here at 7:15 am GMT. . We were waiting in the lobby when the driver arrived at 7 am. Our departure from Glasgow was for 10:45 am. There were quite a few hurdles for all the technical clearances to go through to get our tickets.
We waited in line 2 hours before making it to security.
The entrance to the airport gates was unbelievable. We had to weave through store after store of duty free merchandise. \240There was no quick path. It was a gauntlet.
Pictures of Glasgow, \240from the plane, as we departed.
As we approached the coast of The Netherlands we saw these windmills a few miles off the coast.
The western coast of The Netherlands.
Patchwork fields….
….and city landscapes….
….looking westwards towards the western coast….
….more city….
….and more city….and fields….
….and a great canal….
….finally in AMSTERDAM!!!!
A five hour wait ….
We had a 5 hour wait that stretched to 6 hours. Though the departure from the Amsterdam airport was delayed an hour the pilots got us to Atlanta only 10 minutes later than advertised. We arrived @ 8:20 pm EST. Quite tired and exhausted from 16 hours of travel and waiting.
We stayed at a hotel nearby as our flight for Richmond didn’t leave till 11:30 am Monday. \240
Jay and Pauline stayed at the airport playing cards and waiting for their early flight Monday to Orlando.
We arrived home in Richmond @ 12:30 pm Monday afternoon.
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