Tokyo a-go-go, baby! Yeah! (austin powers voice): 4-5 days in the biggest city in the world
I know all 7 readers have been missing my posts - but I was too busy living my best life in Tokyo.
Day 1: We took a ~5 hour flight from Bangkok and landed in Tokyo around dinner time. After checking into our hotel in Shinjuku/downtown Tokyo (we are staying at the famous godzilla hotel), we headed to Omoide Yokocho (aka: piss alley / aka memory lane). Piss Alley is a set of smokey, narrow alleyways in Shinjuku that are littered with tiny 5-10 seat yakitori bars/restaurants - historically a place for Japanese salarymen to blow off some steam during work. Mia and I (being the salarymen that we are) sat down at a random bar and ordered a bunch of yakitori (bbq grilled meat on sticks) - like clockwork, some older Japanese gents sat down next to us and proceeded to buy us drinks and chat with us. We spoke no Japanese, they spoke no/little english, but we still had good time - shoutout to the homiez.
After some food and drinks, we headed to another "alleyway neighborhood" called Golden Gai - this was similarly a set of very narrow alleys, with 100s of mini / themed bars (i.e., heavy metal, film noir, etc) each with ~4-12 seats. We only lasted a few drinks as we were pretty tired from the travel. We would deff go back here and considered the 1st day a huge hit
Exploring our home base of Shinjuku
Walking into "piss alley" to hunt down some good yakitori
The famed 3-D kitty billboard in Shinjuku
Did I mention that we are staying at the godzilla hotel...I kid you not our hotel is famous for the huge godzilla statues on the roof
Day 2: We kicked off the next day by traveling to Harajuku / Omotesando, specifically "Cat Street". Our first stop was to queue up for big fluffy pancakes at Micasadeco (side note: if you want great food in Tokyo, queue'ing up is a part of life and it's generally pretty efficient). After having these redonkulous pancakes, we walked around Cat Street and broader Harajuku which is filled to the brim with good shopping (vintage and flagship stores), interesting food and other sights you would never see in the states. Before venturing too far into the tiny streets of Harajuku, we walked into a group of Japanese (english-speaking) men, stumbling down a non-descript stairway, and they proceeded to tell us that they were coming from a local sushi counter up the stairs that we should try (but told us not to tell people - sorry my dudez). The chef at this place (Sanaka) was slanging nigiri like an artist while moving at a supersonic pace. This place was bomb - so much so that we returned on our last day.
After shopping / wandering our way through Harajuku and experiencing a "hedge hog cafe" (which we found to be a little sad), we hunted down our next dinner. We went to take a queue number from the famous Udon Shin - it was a 90 min wait, but very worth it. I'm not a noodle expert, but these were chewy, soft and delicious (pro-tip get the famous carbonara udon and something more traditional, like one of the tempura udon dishes). Big day of nums led to a big night of sleep 💤
Big fluffy pancakes from Micasadeco
Entry way to secret sushi spot: Sanaka
An artist at work (Sanaka)
Mia and her new hedgehog friend
Carbonara udon slaps (Udon Shin)
1 of 1000000 vintage shops we explored
Day 3: Even though we had spent a night with overeating tummy aches, we decided to hit it hard the next morning with raw fish for breakfast - Tsukiji fish market. Tsukiji fish market has historically been where the fresh fish comes in from Tokyo bay every morning and the famous tuna auctions occurred. Although they moved the auction to a different site in recent years, the consumer remnants of the markets remain (restaurants / stands with first dibs on the freshest sushi in Tokyo, interesting shops with cookware, etc). We started the morning off queuing for Sushi Zanmai, where I had a meguro set - all different cuts of tuna nigiri / sushi rolls. It was fabulous - I may be tuna's #1 fan. We continued to walk around the market where we picked up a few souvenirs, looked at food and tried some ourselves (we had a 2nd serving of meguro from a different place and grilled A5 wagyu beef).
After the market, we took the bus to teamLab Planets Tokyo - interactive art gallery/exhibit that I had heard good things about over the last 2 years. It's basically a bunch of visual experiences that you walk through (including walking through knee deep water, rooms that are pitch black, etc) - hard to explain, but maybe will make more sense in pics. After the museum, we walked to kabukiza theatre in Ginza (home of kabuki theatre) where Mia got us tickets to the first act. Kabuki theatre was....interesting - imagine a lower production broadway show where you can't understand any of it and the songs aren't as catchy - fwiw, Mia enjoyed it.
We closed the evening with a shabu shabu meal at Shabusen Ginza. Shabu shabu is basically self-cooking meat and vegetables in boiling broth and eating with delicious sauces and rice. The experience was as fun as it was good (like all good food in Japan, there was probably a 1 hour queue system). This was also the night that we realized our hotel was right next to a multi-floor arcade - so had to get some games in before bed
A perfect meguro set @ Tsukiji fish market (Sushi Zanmai)
Peeping the A5 Wagyu selection at the market
Me picking up a cooking knife at an ancient shop that got its start making samurai blades several hundred years ago
This teamLab exhibition was a little wet...
My flower w/ flowers (teamLab Planets)
Mia & Scott about to "enjoy" some kabuki theatre
Shabu shabu - we love an interactive dining experience
Mario Cart at the arcade is our Roman Empire
Day 4: We began the day by going to the famous Shibuya scramble (biggest, most hectic street crossing in the world); honestly, we were a bit underwhelmed and expected more craziness - maybe we didn't go at a busy enough time (i.e., rush hour). We then queued up for Tonkatsu (breaded fried pork dish) at Katsudon-ya Zuicho - a super cheap (Michelin Bib Gourmand list), no frills joint. They served the tonkatsu over rice and a fluffy egg (pro-tip: get the extra egg) with a sweet soy sauce - bombdotcom!
After lunch, we explored 2 different neighborhoods: Shimokitazawa (vintage shopping) and Koenji (live music and punk neighborhood). Shimokitazawa was super cool and even though we were generally shopped out, the vibes were immaculate - we probably just bopped around for 2-3 hours. Koenji, however, we had a more difficult time making sense of it - we didn't see much by way of live music and it seemed like the area was a bit more dead
We went back to Shinjuku for dinner and tried a conveyor belt sushi restaurant (Ganso Zushi) - while the sushi wasn't the best quality we had in Tokyo, it rivals most sushi in NY and was a super fun experience (maybe Mia's fav activity?)
Shibuya scramble, but make it fashion (if you notice any outfit sharing/repeating, just unnotice it - this trip was impromptu, we we had to get an entire winter wardrobe on the fly)
Our first Tonkatsu experience- the best 7$ ever spent
Hachi - the most loyal dog there ever was (besides Buddy, Jessie, Rocky, Ruby & Rudy)
If you can't find me, catch me @ the Don Quijote megastore
Conveyor belt sushi with Mia's new BF - they had a connection
I don't think you are supposed to operate a Japan metro simulator while drinking...
We challenged some locals to Arcade games...
...safe to say we stacked up pretty well
Day 5 (last full Tokyo day): On our final full day in Tokyo, we started that day out exploring the Asakusa neighborhood which is known for having older/more traditionally Japanese architecture, a bustling street food / souvenir market and is home to Sensoji - one of the most popular Buddhist temples in Japan. The area was also shit-packed (everything in Tokyo is crowded, but it was more apparent here since all of the roads are so narrow).
Next, we went back to Cat Street to hit up Sanaka sushi again - fire fire fire - and grab a famous matcha ice cream for Mia and a souvenir from the Adidas store for me. After the shopping was done, we walked to Yoyogi park (park of the people - basically Central park w/ Mccarren vibes) and hung out. We saw the famed Rockabilly dancers at Yoyogi, which was a highlight for me (see content below for more info).
Finally we hit up Butagami for dinner - another Tonkatsu joint, but a bit fancy as opposed to the no frills lunch place we went to a day or 2 prior. You could choose from a variety of different pork cuts, but also different pork brands (like from different countries, etc). It was 🔥 🔥 🔥
Sensoji and Asakusa were pretty crowded...
We drew fortunes at the temple. Mia got "the best fortune" whereas I got a "standard bad fortune"...classic
Qeueing back at Sanaka - our first sushi love
Mia found the best matcha soft serve of her life on cat street
At Yoyogi park, we found the Rockabilly dancers
A group of individuals who are committed to 50s American rock culture and they show up at the park every Sunday to let loose
This hype gawd was my favorite Rockabilly dancer
Mia and I enjoying our incredibly civilized Tonkatsu set
Tomorrow morning, we take a train to Hakone a hot springs town (probably the next spot) - should be a nice break after walking 25,000 steps a day.
A few other fun things about our time in Tokyo that didn't make the cut above:
- Don Quijote are these massive ~10 floor department stores that sell everything you could imagine and more. If you go to Tokyo, you will likely go a few times, and it's a real good time
- Vintage shopping here is nuts. Gonna take a shot in dark and say it's probably best in world. More broadly, the shopping here is insane
- You can shake a tree in Tokyo and good food is falling out - it's everywhere. For many meals, we just walked until we saw a queue and then decided whether we wanted to get involved in that food situation
- Public transportation is awesome - subways, buses @ trains all work great and are much more civilized as compared to NY
- The hype around 7/11 (Lawsons and Familymart, too) is real. The hot bar is real deal