Up at 5:30 and left for SFO at 6:10. \240Traffic was heavy in several expected places. \240Waze routed us through Walnut Creek on 680 and Berkeley on 24. \240Nile we were confident of arriving on time for our flight we still had some anxious moments, especially the delay at the Bay Bridge toll plaza. \240 After stops in Benicia to pee and South SF for gas, we dropped our rental car off at 9:30. \240By 9:50 we were at Singapore Air to check in for our 11:30 NS departure to Singapore.
We departed on time though we had runway delays for departing and incoming traffic. \240The Business Class seats on the A350 aren’t the best we have had. \240Lying flat is comfortable enough but sitting up requires an awkward angle to obtain maximum legroom.
After 16 hours in the air we arrived Singapore at 7 pm (the next day). Customs and immigration were easy. A 20 minute cab ride brought us to the Fairmont Hotel in the center of the city. \240We are now ready to crash and sleep.
Although waking repeatedly, I got almost 8 hours of sleep. \240After breakfast at the hotel we took a cab ride to Gardens by the Bay, a huge development of botanical displays. \240We walked through the Flower Dome, a multiacre greenhouse with displays of plants from all parts of the world. \240The current feature is Tulipmania highlighting Holland’s role as a major flower producer and exporter. \240We then rode an elevator up 16 levels to a platform on the Supertree Observatory where we had a 360 degree view of the gardens and nearby Singapore harbor.
After exploring for a couple of hours we rode back to the Raffles Hotel and it’s Long Bar where we refreshed with virgin versions of the iconic Singapore Sling.
Back to the Fairmont to transfer to the port and board Silver Cloud, our home gers enfor the next 2 weeks. \240The Cloud is a slightly more luxurious version of other expedition vessels on which we have traveled. \240For the first time, our suite has a veranda.
After settling in we went to an introductory meeting put on by the expedition staff of 26 for the 207 passengers on board. Before dinner we attended a Shabbat service set up by the ship with challah, candles, and wine. \240Only one other couple was there; Eve and David from Miami with whom we had dinner. \240By 10:00 we were lights out.
Long Bar. Raffles Hotel
Tulipmania. \240Gardens by the Bay
Supertree Gardens by the Bay
Marina Bay Sands Hotel
Singapore Flyer
We left Singapore at 11 pm last night. \240The sea was so calm I had to look out our window to confirm that we were actually under way. \240We sailed south into Indonesian waters throughout the day. \240Activities included an introduction to zodiac operations, snorkeling and kayaking briefings, and a lecture on the Coral Triangle. Weather was mostly fine with a few squalls. We joined a group of 4 Aussies for team trivia but didn’t do well, \240finishing towards the bottom of the back.
For dinner we were invited to join Ben Luckz, the Belgian assistant director of the expedition team. \240He proved to be very interesting and an engaging conversationalist. \240The wind and sea state has kicked up with mild but noticeable rolling during dinner on deck 7 aft. \240Back in our cabin, located on deck 5 near midships it’s much smoother. \240 \240It’s now 945 and time for bed.
By 6:00 we were anchored off Pulau Langkuas in the Belitung Islands of Indonesia. \240After breakfast we went ashore via Zodiac. \240 It’s a small island with a 19th century light but no inhabitants. \240The visit was for snorkeling. \240The reef looked very healthy with corals in very good condition but surprisingly little fish life. \240Mostly damsels with an occasional butterfly. \240I suspect the reef has been subjected to intense fishing by locals. \240 Just as we were getting out of the water it began to rain lightly. \240However the squall picked up rapidly with thunder and lightning and strong rain by the time we returned to Silver Cloud.
Sailor’s Eyeball
We arrived Karimun Jawa around noon after a smooth overnight passage. After lunch we took a short Zodiac ride to the very small uninhabited island for our second day of snorkeling. While the corals weren’t as good as at Pulau Langkuas, the fish life was infinitely better. Apparently this region hasn’t been fished nearly as extensively. Nice photos OSU clowns Damselfish, butterflyfish, wrasses, and even a few parrotfish. \240Because we were snorkeling on the outer edge of the reef and there was about 12” of wind chop, Donna wasn’t comfortable in the water so she quit after about 10 minutes and returned to the ship. \240
Sea day today. \240We had a leisurely morning with a walk around the deck and Samba. \240The afternoon was equally busy with Trivia and a lecture on dangerous marine reptiles (crocodiles and snakes). \240
We awoke anchored off the small island and marine park of Palau Satonda. \240After breakfast a short zodiac ride brought us ashore. \240We did a short 500M hike to a lake in the middle of the island. \240Then back to the beach for a snorkeling session which was excellent. \240Several new (to me) species including an angelfish and several to be identified species.
During lunch the ship repositioned a few miles to an anchorage off a small village. We went ashore where we were greeted by probably the entire population of 2500. They performed a few music and dance numbers, after which we were guided around the village. \240It wasn’t much. \240The homes were of crude wood construction with corrugated metal roofs. \240 Other than motor bikes and smart phones
, they appeared to have very little. \240The way the village people turned out, it appears that tourist visits are uncommon.
We finally made it to Komodo Island. \240Following breakfast we went ashore for a 1 mile hike through Komodo National Park. \240Not too far from the ranger station we encountered 2 male Komodo Dragons warming themselves in the morning sun by a watering hole. They seemed to pay little attention to the 40 or so tourists looking on. \240Eventually one of the dragons hit up and walked on the path after us. \240We were surprised how these supposedly fierce and dangerous animals tolerated our close presence. \240
We continued n the route and passed undue a tree in which a blue viper was sleeping in a branch covered in orchids over our heads. \240I suppose this snake is known to be in this tree because, as how difficult he was to spot, other groups also saw him. \240
During lunch Silver Cloud moved a few miles to anchor off Pink Beach. \240We snorkeled here with excellent conditions. \240Highlights were Titan Triggerfish, wrasses I haven’t seen previously, and numerous Anemonefish. \240
We are now on our way to Darwin. \240
We spent the day at sea enroute to Darwin. \240After snorkeling yesterday my left ear never opened up and hearing was remarkably diminished. I visited the ship’s doctor who irrigated a large impaction from my left ear and a smaller one from the right ear.
It As we proceeded southeast and left behind the relative protection of the Indonesian archipelago we entered the Sea of Timor. Here the swell increased to a about 4-5’; enough that we both applied scopolamine patches at dinner time.
We were at sea until we reached Darwin at 1600. \240In the morning, while in the open ocean, it was pretty rough with 3-5’ swells. \240Enough to warrant keeping my Scop patch on, at least in the morning. \240As we approached Northern Australia the sea began to moderate to just 1’ chop.
After tying up at the cruise ship terminal and cleaning customs we boarded busses to take us about 10 minutes to the George Brown Botanical gardens. We spent 2 hours there that weren’t very exciting. Lots of tropical palms and ferns, one area of Madagascar baobabs, but few flowers in bloom. \240By 7:00 it was dark so we returned to the ship. \240
Bottle Tree
Madagascar Baobob
Another day at sea. \240Attended a lecture on the evolution of mammals and had our trivia contest. \240Not much else going on. \240Had dinner with Marc and Beth Zweig who we had met on the Sea of Cortez cruise in 2018. \240Marc recognized my story of being a physician turned travel agent. \240
The day started when we anchored in Freshwater Cove on the Kimberly Coast. Donna was having GI issues so she didn’t do the morning outing. \240We went ashore to participate in a Welcome to Country ceremony put on by local Aboroginals. \240This was followed by a short nature walk along the beach and nearby grasslands. \240It wasn’t too exciting. \240Saw a hermit crab, kite, and some pandanous palms.
By 11:00 we were underway again. \240During lunch aboard we had a rainy squall. By the time we arrived at our next destination, Montgomery Reef, the rain had passed and the sun was starting to reappear.
After traveling about 18 miles we anchored at Montgomery Reef. \240It’s not a true reef since it consists of rock and not coral. \240At high tide the island is submerged but it re-emerges as the tide ebbs. \240What makes it an interesting stop is the twice daily tide changes which can be up to 4 M. \240As the tide ebbs, water comes pouring off the island, forming many small waterfalls. \240This phenomenon is apparently unique to this spot; it doesn’t occur in more famous tidal bores such as the Bay of Fundy in New Brunswick or Turnagain Arm in Alaska. \240We cruised through a channel between the 2 arms of the island. \240We stopped to watch the water flowing off the island and photograph several bird species including reef herons, egrets, and a lack-footed \240booby. \240Numerous green turtles popped their heads up to breathe but but quickly resubmerged so that I couldn’t get off a decent shot. We’re now back aboard and preparing for departure to our next destination.
Black-footed Booby
Reef Heron
Baobab treeaH
Hermit Crab
We cruised SW overnight and arrived at the entrance to Talbot Bay early this morning. The bay is very picturesque with its red sandstone walls and the greenish water. \240We anchored near the head of the bay and the Zodiacs were launched during lunch. After lunch we set out to explore the bay. We stopped briefly at the Horizontal Waterfalls which were only starting to flow with the building ebb. \240We then headed up Cyclone Creek, a mostly tidal extension of the bay. \240The sandstone sides of the bay date back 1.8 billion years, some of the oldest rocks on the planet. \240While cruising up the creek we got a brief view of a rock wallaby and also were overflown by a White Bellied Sea Eagle. \240We then went back to the Horizontal Falls which was now near maximum ebb and experienced the massive power of the water. \240It’s not so much a waterfalls as it is a rapids draining a small inlet off of the bay via a narrow opening. \240Nevertheless it was quite a ride.
We anchored near the mouth of the Hunter River early this morning. \240After breakfast we went on a Zodiac cruise. \240To get into the river we had to into a 20 knot headwind with an opposing flood tide which produced a steep 2-3’ chop and a bumpy and wet ride. \240Once into the river we cruised through a flooded mangrove forest. There wasn’t a lot to see other than a few birds.
After lunch and a rest back onboard we returned to the river. \240Since this morning the tide had dropped 7 meters, totally changing the landscape. \240The mangroves through which we had cruised were now far above the river. It also brought out the crocodiles which were now feeding on small fish along the shoreline. We saw at least 10 crocs, exceeding my expectations. The only disappointment is that they were mostly between us and the sun, limiting the photography. \240
Mudskipper
Upon anchoring in Koolama Bay we encountered 30+ winds and rough seas. \240The expedition team put a few Zodiacs in the water and soon decided it was too hazardous to load guests for our planned morning expeditions into the King George River. So the morning activities were canceled.
Fortunately by 2:00, even though the winds hadn’t calmed significantly, the sea state had settled enough to launch the Zodiacs. \240As advertised, we had a rough and wet crossing of Koolama Bay to reach the mouth of the King George River. However, once in the relatively sheltered waters of the river, the conditions rapidly calmed. \240We cruised 7.5 miles up the river to the twin King George Falls which drop 130’ from the plateau above into the river. \240Along the way we stopped frequently to appreciate the spectacular sandstone formations lining the river banks. \240By the time we returned to the ship at 5:00, a few minutes before sunset, the wind and sea states had calmed sufficiently that the ride wasn’t unpleasant. \240
We tied up alongside the wharf in Wyndham. \240The town has a population of only 800, mainly working at the wharf which is a shipment point for iron ore and cattle going to Asia. \240The passenger split into several groups doing various excursions. \240We opted to do a flight seeing tour of the Bungle Bungle Range. \240While the first half of our group were dropped off at the landing strip in Wyndham our group were bussed 100 km south to the town of Kununurra, the largest town in this area of the Kimberly. \240While we waited for the planes to arrive from Wyndham, we had lunch at a restaurant on a reservoir which provides irrigation to the surrounding agricultural region.
After lunch we went to the Kununurra Airport where the first group had arrived after their scenic flight. \240We took off on a Cessna Grand Caravan for our flight. \240We flew over Lakr Argyle which stores 9 million acre feet of water. \240It’s not much of a recreational area due to its estimated population of 25,000 fresh water crocodiles. \240We then flew south to the Bungle Bungle Range. \240These colorful sandstone mountains formed over 360 million years ago. \240Remarkably, they were known only to Aboriginals and a few helicopter pilots until 1983. \240Now they are included in Purnululu National Park and are a World Heritage site that has great cultural significance to the Aborigines as well being a popular tourist attraction.
It then took about 45 minutes to fly back to Wyndham and a short bus trip back to the ship. \240Dinner aboard was at La Dame, Silversea’s signature French fine dining restaurant. \240It was very good, albeit slow and too much food for us.
We had our final day at sea, cruising slowly towards our final stop in Darwin. \240The highlight of the day was winning the overall trivia contest with our partners David and Eve Lavin. \240We had our final dinner with David and Eve, Marc and Beth Zweig from NJ and Miami, and Andy and Wendie Fisher from Atlanta and Palm Beach.
After some procedural delays we disembarked Silver Cloud in Darwin and made the short trip to the airport. \240Our Qantas NS flight to Sydney left on time at 1:20.
We arrived on time at 6:00 and took Uber to the Four Seasons located in The Rocks, Sydney’s oldest area. \240We have a complimentary room on the 33rd floor with a spectacular view of the harbor, Opera House, and Harbor Bridge. \240Although I had received a notice from the Four Seasons that the main entrance of the hotel would be closed due to a festival and street closures, we weren’t expecting what we found. \240Vivid Sydney is an annual event in May and June that attracts thousands to The Rocks for a light and drone show. We had to wait 30’ for a table at the hotel restaurant so we joined the throngs moving towards the harbor to view the show. \240After dinner we went up to our room from where we had a Birds Eye view of the show. \240In addition to the drones, the Opera House was the canvas for a remarkable art show. \240What an unexpected surprise to finish off our trip.