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Banker Sk. No:8

Jhanet and I are traveling again. Finally rearranged our rescheduled trip to Türkiye that we had planned back in 2020. We left Boston at 9:50 on a direct flight to Istanbul.

We hopped in a taxi and were driven to our accommodation at 8 Galata. Once we dropped our bags we immediately headed to The Spice Bazaar (Turkish: Mısır Çarşısı, meaning "Egyptian Bazaar") this is one of the largest bazaars in the city. Located in the Eminönü quarter of the Fatih district.

To get to the bazaar we crossed The Galata Bridge. It is the oldest and southernmost of the three suspension bridges spanning the Bosphorus strait in Istanbul, connecting Europe and Asia. The bridge extends between Ortaköy (in Europe) and Beylerbeyi (in Asia).

Underneath the bridge on both sides, seafood restaurants line the walkway

Egyptian Bazaar

Dried eggplant

These boats cook fresh mackerel sandwiches for 150tl

We then decided to visit Yeni Cami mosque.

After 1603, the partially constructed structure gradually fell into ruins; and was severely damaged during the Great Fire of 1660 which destroyed many neighbourhoods in the city. \240Later that year, the imperial architect Mustafa Ağa suggested that Turhan Sultan, mother of Sultan Mehmed IV, should complete the project as a work of piety. Turhan also ordered the construction of the nearby Spice Bazaar, which forms a part of the külliye of the New Mosque. Thus, in the last months of 1660, the construction of the mosque was resumed, while the construction of the adjacent bazaar began.

The mosque was finally completed in 1663, and inaugurated in 1665. It was renamed the "New Valide Sultan Mosque" (Yeni Valide Sultan Camii). In time, this name was informally shortened as the "New Mosque" (Yeni Cami) among the public.

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Bereketzade, Banker Sk. No:8, 34421 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

We slept in this morning after our epic day of travel yesterday and then started off by Jhanet finding us a great breakfast of Turkish Simit.

A much-loved bakery in Karaköy which has been producing the crunchiest simit in the traditional style for over 30 years. The shop also stocks acma (a softer bagel), muffins and loafs with sweets and savoury fillings. People flock from all over the city; this bakery is that good.

Simit is a circular bread, typically encrusted with sesame seeds. \240found across the cuisines of the former Ottoman Empire and the Middle East, especially in Armenia, Turkey and the Balkans.

We then headed across to Asia to the Grand Bazaar.

The Grand Bazaar (Turkish: Kapalıçarşı, meaning ‘Covered Market’; also Büyük Çarşı, meaning ‘Grand Market’) in Istanbul is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with 61 covered streets and over 4,000 shops on a total area of 30,700 m2, attracting between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. In 2014, it was listed No.1 among the world's most-visited tourist attractions with 91,250,000 annual visitors. The Grand Bazaar at Istanbul is often regarded as one of the first shopping malls of the world.

Zincirli Han is located in the north of the Grand Bazaar, which is back to back with Istanbul Beyazıt, and is known to have been built towards the end of the 18th century. It has the characteristics of a trade inn and has a high number of visitors due to its proximity to the Grand Bazaar. Taking its place among historical places, Zincirli Han is located on Tığcılar Street and has a very simple architecture.

Zincirli Han starts talking when you first step through its round stone arched entrance. The stairs and the shops on the upper floor have survived to the present day and still impress those who see them with their simplicity.

Zinciti Han

Time for some Turkish Tea and Apple tea

Blue mosque

A dogs prayer to Allah (click play below)

Preparing to head into the Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque in Istanbul, also known by its official name, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Turkish: Sultan Ahmet Camii), is an Ottoman-era historical imperial mosque located in Istanbul, Turkey. It was constructed between 1609 and 1617 during the rule of Ahmed I and remains a functioning mosque today.

Basilica Cistern

Frenchman visiting Constantinople (now Istanbul) in the 1500s heard strange stories of locals drawing up fresh water and even fishing from holes in their cellars. Intrigued by these stories and the legends of great underground temples, he decided to explore. 

Upon further investigation, he found a subterranean marvel, the largest of the long-forgotten palatial cisterns of the Byzantine Empire. Fish swam in an artificial freshwater lake the size of two football fields and the vaulted brick ceilings were held up by 336 30-foot pillars scavenged from nearby Roman ruins.

Amazingly preserved despite centuries of conflict and siege, the cistern was built in 532 by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I to store fresh water for the palace and nearby buildings. Nicknamed Yearbatan Sarayi, or "The Sunken Palace" in Turkish, it is known in English as the "Basilica Cistern" because of its location on the site of an ancient basilica.

When Justinian undertook the building of the cistern, Constantinople was still in the shadow of the devastating Nika Revolt which took place in January of that year. The Byzantine equivalent of soccer riots gone massively out of control, the revolt took place in the wake of a hotly contested chariot race and culminated in the burning of much of the imperial city, and the killing of 30,000 rioters by Justinian's troops. The cisterns were built as part of the rebuilding efforts in the aftermath. 

In the past, visitors could rent a rowboat to float past the columns in the dripping gloom. Restorations in the late 1980s dredged the silted-in floor and added lighting, elevated walkways, and a cafe for visitors. There are still fish in the now-shallow water, helping to keep the water clear. 

The two giant Gorgon-head pillar bases at the far end of the cistern are an intriguing mystery. It is suspected that they may have been pulled out of an older pagan temple, where motifs of the famous Gorgon Medusa were used as a protective emblem. It is possible that the placement of these two faces—upside down and sideways, at the base of pillars—may have been a deliberate display of the power of the new Christian Empire. Or it's possible that the stones were just the right size.

Galata Tower

The Galata Tower (Turkish: Galata Kulesi), is an old Genoese tower in the Galata part of the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, Turkey. Built as a watchtower at the highest point of the (lost) Walls of Galata.

Another sightseeing day behind us.

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Bereketzade, Banker Sk. No:8, 34421 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

We kicked off the morning by discovering a great place for breakfast before making our way to Karakoy to check out a fresh produce market. Getting the ferry tickets was a bit tricky, but Jhanet handled it, and soon enough, we were on our way.

Classic Turkish breakfast(vegetarian version)

Karaköy fresh produce market

Displaying of the gills on fish for sale

Pickles galore

Ambulance in Turkey

I set up a sunset cruise on a yacht in the Bosphorus Strait this afternoon, and it was an awesome way to check out both the Asian and European sides of Istanbul while diving into the history of the area.

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey and is among the 15 largest urban areas in the world. It is located on the Bosporus Strait and covers the entire area of the Golden Horn, a natural harbor. Because of its size, Istanbul extends into both Europe and Asia. The city is the world’s only metropolis to be on more than one continent.

The city of Istanbul is important to geography because it has a long history that spans the rise and fall of the world's most famous empires. Due to its participation in these empires, Istanbul has also undergone various name changes.

Byzantium

Though Istanbul may have been inhabited as early as 3000 BCE, it was not a city until Greek colonists arrived in the area in the seventh century BCE. These colonists were led by King Byzas and settled there because of the strategic location along the Bosporus Strait. King Byzas named the city Byzantium after himself.

The Roman Empire (330–395)

Byzantium became a part of the Roman Empire in the 300s. During this time, the Roman emperor, Constantine the Great, undertook the rebuilding of the entire city. His goal was to make it stand out and give the city monuments similar to those found in Rome. In 330, Constantine declared the city as the capital of the entire Roman Empire and renamed it Constantinople. It grew and prospered as a result.

The Byzantine (Eastern Roman) Empire (395–1204 and 1261–1453)

After the death of the emperor Theodosius I in 395, however, enormous upheaval took place in the empire as his sons permanently divided it. Following the division, Constantinople became the capital of the Byzantine Empire in the 400s.

As part of the Byzantine Empire, the city became distinctly Greek, as opposed to its former identity in the Roman Empire. Because Constantinople was at the center of two continents, it became a center of commerce, culture, and diplomacy and grew considerably. In 532, though, the antigovernment Nika Revolt broke out among the city’s population and destroyed it. Afterward, many of its most outstanding monuments, one of which was the Hagia Sophia, were constructed during the city's rebuilding, and Constantinople became the center of the Greek Orthodox Church.

A reprieve from head scarves and covering up

The Latin Empire (1204–1261)

Although Constantinople significantly prospered during decades following its becoming a part of the Byzantine Empire, the factors leading to its success also made it a target for conquering. For hundreds of years, troops from all over the Middle East attacked the city. For a time it was even controlled by members of the Fourth Crusade after the city was desecrated in 1204. Subsequently, Constantinople became the center of the Catholic Latin Empire.

As competition persisted between the Catholic Latin Empire and the Greek Orthodox Byzantine Empire, Constantinople was caught in the middle and began to significantly decay. It went financially bankrupt, the population declined, and it became vulnerable to further attacks as defense posts around the city crumbled. In 1261, in the midst of this turmoil, the Empire of Nicaea recaptured Constantinople, and it was returned to the Byzantine Empire. Around the same time, the Ottoman Turks began conquering the cities surrounding Constantinople, effectively cutting it off from many of its neighboring cities.

It is one of the oldest landmarks in Istanbul, is shrouded in mystery and located in the middle of the sea, on a rocky outcrop very close to the shore. This is the Maiden’s Tower or Leander’s Tower, or otherwise known by the Turks as Kiz Kulesi.

The Ottoman Empire (1453–1922)

After being considerably weakened, Constantinople was officially conquered by the Ottomans, led by Sultan Mehmed II on May 29, 1453, after a 53-day siege. During the siege, the last Byzantine emperor, Constantine XI, died while defending his city. Almost immediately, Constantinople was declared to be the capital of the Ottoman Empire and its name was changed to Istanbul.

Upon taking control of the city, Sultan Mehmed sought to rejuvenate Istanbul. He created the Grand Bazaar (one of the largest covered marketplaces in the world) and brought back fleeing Catholic and Greek Orthodox residents. In addition to these residents, he brought in Muslim, Christian, and Jewish families to establish a mixed populace. Sultan Mehmed also began the building of architectural monuments, schools, hospitals, public baths, and grand imperial mosques.

From 1520 to 1566, Suleiman the Magnificent controlled the Ottoman Empire, and there were many artistic and architectural achievements that made the city a major cultural, political, and commercial center. By the mid-1500s, its population had grown to almost 1 million inhabitants. The Ottoman Empire ruled Istanbul until it was defeated and occupied by the Allies in World War I.

Hagia Sophia in the sunset

The Republic of Turkey (1923–Present)

Following World War I, the Turkish War of Independence took place, and Istanbul became a part of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. Istanbul was not the capital city of the new republic, and during the early years of its formation, Istanbul was overlooked; investment went into the new, centrally located capital, Ankara. In the 1940s and 1950s, though, Istanbul reemerged. New public squares, boulevards, and avenues were constructed—and many of the city’s historic buildings were demolished.

In the 1970s, Istanbul’s population rapidly increased, causing the city to expand into the nearby villages and forests, eventually creating a major world metropolis.

Istanbul Today

Istanbul's many historical areas were added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1985. In addition, because of its status as a world rising power, its history, and its importance to culture in both Europe and the world, Istanbul was designated the European Capital of Culture for 2010 by the European Union.

We ended the day with a quick dinner of hummus and pita.

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Bereketzade, Banker Sk. No:8, 34421 Beyoğlu/İstanbul, Türkiye

Today we started out by heading to the local fish market. This is our last day in Istanbul before we head south on our walk

Still trying to figure out what kind of fish these are? We think it might be Bonito

Bonito fish

It seems the Turks like to add red to their fish and meat. The gills in fish are turned out and the meat carcasses are hung with red roses in their derrières.

Needle Fish

Nothing goes to waste

Literally nothing

Lot’s of Garlic

The district of Fatih is home to a unique kind of bazaar. What started in the '40s as place for housewives to sell hand-made and homegrown goods - hence the name Kadınlar Pazarı - the Women's Bazaar is now an area consisting of roughly 72 shops where locals sell produce brought from the farms of local villages. Located behind the famous fire brigade in the district of Fatih and just under the aqueducts is a strip that is still known as the Kadınlar Pazarı. Over the years, this bazaar has preserved the reputation it has long been famous for with organic and homemade goods.

Cheese

Nuts

Seeds

The Aqueduct of Valens was a Roman aqueduct system built in the late 4th century AD, to supply Constantinople – the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. Construction of the aqueduct began during the reign of the Roman emperor Constantius II (r. 337–361) and was completed in 373 by the Emperor Valens (r. 364–378). The aqueduct remained in use for many centuries. It was extended and maintained by the Byzantines and the Ottomans.

Balat’s Colorful Homes

These homes are mostly over 50-years-old, and in some cases are up to 200-years-old. These historic wooden homes are amongst the most photographed buildings in the city.

In 330 CE, Constantine I (Constantine the Great) officially inaugurated the city of Constantinople as the capital of the Byzantine Empire. According to primary sources, the Column of Constantine (Çemberlitaş) was also erected in 330 CE with Constantine’s order and it is an honorific column commemorating the foundation of Constantinople and Byzantine Empire (Eastern Roman Empire).

For more than one thousand years, the column was standing in the center of the Forum of Constantine that was one of the most important centers of Byzantine Istanbul (Constantinople). Forum of Constantine was a circular forum with a public square, Column of Constantine, and a lot of shops, therefore everyday life of the forum was very active. Today, nothing remains the Forum of Constantine, but the column is still standing.

The Sinan Pasha Mosque (Turkish: Sinan Paşa Camii) is an Ottoman mosquelocated in a densely populated district of Beşiktaş, in Istanbul, Turkey. It was built by the Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan for the admiral Sinan Pasha. The türbe (tomb) of Barbaros Hayrettin Pasha is located just across the street.

The Tomb of Mahmud II is a tomb built by the Ottoman Sultan Abdulmecid for his father Mahmud II in Istanbul, where other sultans and members of the Ottoman Dynasty were later buried.[1] Completed in 1840, the tomb is located on Divanyolu Street in the Çemberlitaş neighborhood of the Fatih district of Istanbul.

Turbe interior

Turbe is taken part in Islamic-Ottoman social complex, it is one of the most important patterns of Turkish imperial architecture. The turbe is octogonal planned and covered with a dome. The upper sides of the walls and the dome are decorated with pargettings, garlands and flower baskets. The construction is lightened with suspended gas light chandeliers that take place in the 8 corners and a chandelier which was gifted by Victoria I, the queen of the United Kingdom and her husband Albert. In addition, the imperial clocks with stars are taken place which were gifted by the empiror of France Napolion Ill in the turbe.

Padishahs and the family of Ottoman dynasty were buried in the turbe. istanbul Turbe Museum Registration's Ihtisas Library is on the left of entrance hall of this turbe, Sultan Mahmud II Khan's wife Nevfidan Kadin's turbe is on the right. The family of Ottoman dynasty were buried in.

Roman Relic graveyard

What do you do when you have too much of it.

Another epic day behind us. Time to head back to our accommodation.

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Tabakhane Sk. No:31

Today marked our journey from Istanbul to Antalya. We rose at 5 am to ensure we could arrive at our Simit shop by 5:30 for breakfast, where we were fortunate to find the pastries freshly baked and warm from the oven.

First ones to go

These stairs are right beneath where we're staying in Istanbul. Jhanet has been grumbling about having to climb them several times a day. It seems they're a hotspot for Instagrammers, and every bride in Turkey has to get their full photo shoot done here. We always had a challenge getting to our accommodation dodging all of the selfie takers.(J- We had to lug our luggage up these stairs on day 1!)

The Camondo Stairs

The Camondo Stairs are Art Nouveau-style stairs in the Galata district of Istanbul, Turkey. The stairs, completed in the 1850s, were built by the House of Camondo.

Here is where we met our taxi at 6:15 for our journey to the airport.

We landed in Antalya and grabbed a car we rented and immediately drove to Termessos. The one city Alexander the Great didn't bother stopping to conquer, Termessos sits at the top of a mountain near the southern Turkish coast.

Old-growth forest now embrace the tumbled stone ruins of Termessos. Said to have been founded by the mythological hero Bellerophon, during its heyday, the city was known for its impenetrable defense thanks to its mountaintop location, rising over a thousand meters into the sky. In reality it was founded by a community known as the Solims. Little is known of the people or the culture of Termessos despite it being incredibly well preserved, with most of the information gleaned from stories and histories.  

Stone tombs

The towns remoteness served it well, providing it with some autonomy from Rome and sparing it from being sacked by Alexander the Great who referred to it as "the Eagle's Nest." However its remote mountaintop location would also be its downfall. Although little is known, it is believed that the town was abandoned sometime around 200 C.E. an earthquake destroyed the towns aqueduct, cutting off its supply of water. The Solims seemed to have simply walked away leaving a remarkably preserved town behind. 

A large number of stone structures and exposed tombs remain on the site, although some of them have been plundered. Because the site is not under strict archeological control many reliefs and inscriptions have been relocated to the nearby Museum of Antalya. 

The combination of woodland, ruin, and spectacular mountain vistas makes it well worth the effort despite what Alexander the Great thought. 

The originally Greek theatre of Termessos was built in the early 2nd century B.C. and rebuilt under Augustus (Roman emperor from 31 B.C. to 14 A.D.). It was only in the late 2nd century AD that the stage house was added, of which a large part of the stage front is still preserved today. At a later date, a portico was erected above the uppermost tiers, but it did not survive the subsequent earthquakes.

Capacity 4,500

Tombs carved into the rock face

We arrived back at the airport to return the car and were then picked up by our ride at 6 pm and brought to our hotel for the evening.

Minyon Hotel

We took a short stroll after locating a restaurant for our meal, during which we observed several local sites. Tomorrow morning, we will have the chance to further explore Antalya before beginning our walk.

Hadrian’s Gate was built in 130 CE. A wall was subsequently built around the city’s old quarters (Kaleiçi) and the gate was incorporated into the design. Hadrian’s Gate can be classified as the typical Roman triumphal gate, with three archways of identical size. The total height of the gate is 26 feet (8 meters) and is composed of marble and granite.

The two façades of the gate have four columns each. Floral decorations adorn the gate and stylized heads of lions dominate the upper portion. The two towers adjacent to Hadrian’s Gate were not part of the initial plan. Although the south tower was built not much later than the gate, its architecture is completely different. The north tower, on the other hand, was built much later during the 13th-century CE. The passage of carts through the gate over centuries has left behind deep perpendicular ruts at the base of the gate. 

It is sometimes reported that Sir Francis Beaufort “discovered” Hadrian’s Gate in 1817. As the gate was (and still is) in the middle of an inhabited city, it would be more accurate to say that Sir Beaufort reported the existence of the gate to the west. Extensive restoration of the gate was concluded in 1959.

A day filled with ruins and history!

Video

Finished with this view and a bit of music.

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Turker Restaurant & Camping & Pansion

The day has finally arrived for the commencement of our walk. However, it begins slowly, as our taxi is scheduled to pick us up at 2 PM from our hotel in Antalya to take us to the starting point. With some time to spare, we decided to start the morning with a brief run along the marina.

Knit “neat” ride

The Mediterranean Sea

Jhanet was mesmerised by all of the sardines around the marina. It was hard to pull her away.

We came across a traditional Turkish coffee stand.

And more simit being delivered in Antalya

We met back at our hotel at 1:45 and met 4 older English gentleman (Charles, Billy, John, Alec) who were also walking the Lycian Way. We all piled into a taxi and proceeded to drive 1.5 hours to Gedelme village.

Lycian Way Day 1 - Gedelme to Yayla Kuzdere (6.5 km)

This afternoons walk was short and gentle. We climbed up a good track with fantastic scenery of Mount Olympos.

Jhanet found the the only parasol mushroom in all of Turkey due to it being so extremely hot and dry

Sock adjustments are never ending (Jhanet made me put this photo in)…at least I was not changing them

A shoe? Thought it was interesting

Mount Olympos

Oak bush

We made it to Yayla Kuzdere after about 1.5 hours. This place is an oasis of green amid the starkness of the mountains. There are wonderful gardens and fruit trees everywhere. We wandered around and finally found Enver who was hanging laundry and he told us to pick any bungalow we wanted.

We settled in for the evening and then had a nice wander around before dinner was served at 7.

Walnuts

Medlar

Quince trees

The girls, Turkish style.

Perhaps our girls need to see this coop to be shocked into laying!

Red Amarinth

The gardens surrounding the bungalows are filled with fruit trees. Persimmons, grapes, pomegranate,walnuts,fig.

Our room(upstairs)

The restaurant

We were served traditional food and ate family style with our new friends (Alec, Charles, Billy and John) with a backdrop of the magnificent mountains.

Friendly game of Rummikub

Jhanet killed us all in game one!

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Olympos Mountain Lodge (12+)

Lycian Way Day 2 - Yayla Kuzdere to Beycik (14 km)

Today we awoke to a nice simple breakfast of cheese, tomato, cucumber, egg, olives and bread and were then provided with a packed lunch for the days walk.

Always important to have support

Lycia is the historical name of the Tekke Peninsula, which juts into the Mediterranean on Turkey’s southern coast. The mountains rise steeply from the rocky coast, giving beautiful views and varied walking. Forestry predominates; pines are mixed with strawberry trees and carob, and give way to juniper and cedar at higher elevations. \240

Pomegranite

These are everywhere. We have picked a few

We past several bee hives today

Today was glorious and quite demanding. We immediately headed up into the mountains on pine needle floored paths past a lonely farm and up to a saddle below Tahtali Dag (Mount Olympos).

Best forks on a tractor I’ve ever seen

Sock adjustment (so very important)

The Lycians were a democratic but independent, warlike people, with a developed art style and a high standard of living. Their strategic position gave them unique opportunities for sea-trade and (at times) for piracy. After Persian rule, the Lycians welcomed Alexander the Great and absorbed Greek culture. Later, Lycia became a province of the Roman Empire. The Romans developed many cities and ports, linking them with paved roads and equipping them with theatres, baths, forums, temples and ceremonial gates. From the 4th Century, Christianity took hold and, as the Roman empire crumbled, many Byzantine monasteries were founded in the Lycian hills.

There were many dramatic landforms along the way. This rock was not climbable as it was so sharp as to slice up your hands after the first hold.

Jhanet loves to build/add to cairns. All day, every day😊

Mount Olympos

Mount Olympos served as our lunch destination. We contemplated ascending to the summit; however, we realized it would extend our already lengthy day by an additional four hours. Our attention was then drawn to the dirt bikes speeding across the slopes, which was quite disheartening. Upon further investigation, we discovered that a race was scheduled for the upcoming days, and the riders were merely practicing. It is unfortunate that such activities are permitted in this stunning locale.

Lunch buddy

Walnuts from our host last night

Clouds rolling in

The way is blocked!

As we decended into Beycik we met several goats. The one below is quite comfortable in his wheel barrel

Thought he was cute

Our kiddy who greated us on our room balcony

Our accommodation for the evening, The Olympos Mountain Lodge.

We were treated to a six course tasting menu this evening. Freshly baked sourdough with smoked butter. The wheat and butter is from the local region.

Followed by a yoghurt, noodle and vegetable soup

Mezze

Grape leaves filled with a spiced rice,on a yoghurt sauce. Sautéed spinach & carrots with a garlic yoghurt, a powerful,yet delicious tahini dip and olive oil

Green salad with pickled onion

Grilled , smoked cow’s cheese with honey, truffle and porcini dust

Tahini panna cotta on a pistachio cream, topped with baklava filo crisps and lemon & lime zest.

Finishing the meal with cay (Turkish tea). A delicious meal. Needless to say, you could roll the two of us to our room.

Beycik has a population of about 500. The village has not been developed and the region has become known as a Turkish Switzerland.

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Yavuz Bungalow Hotel

Lycian way Day 3 - Beycik to Cirali (20 km)

We started off the day with an incredible breakfast and staying in such a beautiful place warranted a slow start. We finally left around 10:15 for another great day, we started with a gentle descent through pine woods, along exposed tracks with breathtaking views and to top it off, it was a day of animal friends.

First kitty friend, stayed with us for a mile or so. He would actually block the trail

Jhanet’s first sock change

We came across what seemed like the herb path

Turkish sage

Turkish thyme

Lemon…something

Water trough

1st doggy friend. He stayed with us quite a while

Filling up water

This village, Ulupinar is the source of a river, which gives the name to the region. Pinar meaning water in Turkish. Ulupinar is famous for its plenteous water, copious trout farms and fabulous fish restaurants. We just filled up our water bladders and kept moving.

Michelle’s continual sock changes…they don’t ever stop

The sea

Near Olympos, located in the neighbouring village of Cirali and about 200 meters above sea level, the eternal flames of the Chimaera may be seen issuing from the ground. The mythical Chimaera - or Chimera - was a monster with the head of a lion, the body of a goat and the tail of a serpent, who roamed these woods ans spouted fire from her mouth. Called in Turkish Yanartus (flaming rock), the Chimaera is characterized by a permanent fire caused by methane emissions.

The spot consists of some two-dozen vents in the ground, grouped in two patches on the hillside above the Temple of Hephaistos. The vents emit methane, which can spontaneously ignite. In ancient times sailors could navigate by the flames, but today it is more often used to brew tea and warm pastries like we did.

Temple of Hephaistos

Directly below the fires are the ruins of the temple of Hephaistos, the Greek god who was associated with fire through his role as the blacksmith to the gods.

Below is our 2nd doggy friend for the day, this pup was amazing. He was sitting directly in the middle of the road. As we approach he got up and immediately flipped on his back for belly rubs.

We reached our accommodation the Hotel Yavuz Bungalow and quickly made our way to the Mediterranean. Is was fairly warm and felt great after a long day of hiking.

A day filled with history, woods, the view below and fruit trees(pomegranates and prickly pears were the choice eats of the day).

Looking for pretty fishies

Found some Goat Fish

Traditional Turkish Pide

Cirali is the breeding area of protected sea turtles on the coastline , formed by a 3 km beach. Unfortunately we did not see any turtles.

Local people generally make a living from hostel, restaurant and small scale agricultural enterprises.

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Merhaba Bungalow Restaurant

Lycian Way Day 4 - Cirali - Adrasan (19.65 km)

This morning we started off heading down the beach to the ancient city of Olympos.

Olympos was a city in ancient Lycia. It was situated in a river valley near the coast. Its ruins are located south of the modern town Çıralı in the Kumluca district of Antalya Province, southwestern Turkey. Together with the sites of the ancient cities Phaselis and Idyros it is part of the Olympos Beydaglari National Park. The perpetual gas fires at Yanartaş are found a few kilometers to the northwest of the site, which I wrote about yesterday.

Tomb of Lyciarch Marcus Aurelius Archepolis

The exact date of the city's foundation is unknown. A wall and an inscription on a sarcophagus have been dated to the end of the 4th century BC, so Olympos must have been founded at the latest in the Hellenistic period. The city presumably taking its name from nearby Mount Olympus (Turkish: Tahtalı Dağı, Timber Mountain), one of over twenty mountains with the name Olympus in the Classical world.

Roman Temple built for Emperor Marcus Aurelius

175 AD

The city was a member of the Lycian League, but it is uncertain when it joined the League. It started minting Lycian League coins from the end of the second century BC, possibly the 130s. At this time Olympos was one of the six largest cities of the League, which possessed three votes each.

Around 100 BC, Olympos started issuing its own coins, separate from the League. At this point Cilician pirates under Zekenites had taken control of Olympos's Mediterranean possessions, which included Corycus, Phaselis and many other places in Pamphylia. His rule ended in 78 BC, when the Roman commander Publius Servilius Isauricus, accompanied by the young Julius Caesar, captured Olympos and its other territories after a victory at sea. At his defeat, Zekenites set fire to his own house in Olympus and perished. At the time of the Roman conquest, Olympos was described by Cicero as a rich and highly decorated city. Olympos then became part of the Roman Republic. The emperor Hadrian visited the city, after which it took the name of Hadrianopolis (Ἁδριανούπολις) for a period, in his honour.

A street of the ancient city

Stone tomb

Sarcophagus

The tombs are carved out of rock with intricate reliefs on the sides

After leaving Olympos, we climbed through pinewoods, passed a “tea parlour” in the middle of nowhere, accompanied by spectacular views. The trail descended through deciduous woods, crossing a river and several streams, that were absolutely bone dry!

Our accommadation today seemed to be at the very end of Adrasan! For a moment there, I thought we were heading back up the hills to reach it.

We were tired after this long and very rewarding hike today so once we arrived at our accommodation we immediately changed out of our smelly hiking clothes into swimmy attire and jumped into the Mediterranean for the second day in a row.

Jhanet took this amazing photo below.

Sea, mountain and sunset! What more could you ask for.

Adrasan was an important port in ancient times and known for its trade in cedar wood. In recent years the area has been designated as a protected zone by the Turkish government and development has been limited, to preserve the village’s natural and cultural history, as well as its unique character and charm.

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Merhaba Bungalow Restaurant

Lycian Way Day 5 - Adrasan to the lighthouse (18km)

Our departure was delayed today because our lodging was not prepared to provide breakfast on time. Although we eventually received our meal, it appeared that early service is not their usual practice. We had scheduled breakfast for 8 a.m., but it was not served until approximately 8:40. Additionally, I had to inquire and wait for our packed lunch, which is unusual since the travel company we booked with typically coordinates these details in advance with all accommodations.

But then we were off. From Adrasan beach the route climbs up a track through an old camel farm and then up a a rock path to the pass.

We met lot’s for very friendly people along the trail and only one sketchy guy.

Tree hurdles

Suluada (Island with water)

Firenkici Bay (White man’s Bay)

This bay is where and American underwater archaeologist encamped while excavating a Bronze Age ship wreck.

The boys

Lighthouse on the promontory of Gelidonya

The Lighthouse, one of the guide lighthouses of the Mediterranean, is on the historical Lycian Way, on the Taşlık Cape of the Kumluca district of Antalya. The lighthouse's construction was started in 1934. The lighthouse was put into service in 1936.

Gelidonya Lighthouse, which takes the name from Caledonia, which means swallow in the Lycian language, is the highest lighthouse on the Turkish coast, 227 meters. Watching the vast blue waters of the Mediterranean from a green hill, the lighthouse, the lighthouse and the guard building have been taken under protection as a national heritage by the General Directorate of Coastal Safety and Ship Salvage Operations.

Bes Adalar consist of 5 islands that are close to each other, aligned from the land to the south of Cape Gelidonya. The islands are generally made up of sharp rocks and in some parts there are cliffs reaching 20-30 meters height.

Bes Adalar are important breeding grounds for birds, such as the Alpine swift (Tachymarptis melba), Yellow-legged gull (Larus michahellis), Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus), Eleonora's falcon (Falco eleonorae), Merlin (Falco columbarius), Eurasian hobby (Falco subbuteo) in migration periods and Great cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo).

Cape Gelidonya and Bes Adalar in front of it have a very important place in the Lycian geography and maritime history. This is the most dangerous place of the Pamphylia Sea (Antalya Bay) Due to its counter currents. Since it was very difficult to cross the promontory in ancient times, the currents dragged countless ships to the rocks and turned it into an underwater cemetery. In the first scientific underwater research conducted in 1960, George Bass and his team examined a ship belonging to the 15th century BC. \240It is exhibited in the Bodrum Underwater Museum.

The largest of the islands is the thin and long Devecitas Island (Uzunada) with a width of 400 m and a length of 2000 m. In the west Ates Island and in the southwest Suluada is located of the island. It is used as a diving area due to its underwater beauty and depth. Bes Adalar islands are located in the sensitive protection zone of the Beydaglari Coastal National Park and there are no settlements on the islands.

Lycian Way Completed!

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Casablanca Hotel & Suites - فندق كازابلانكا

Travel Day from Antalya - Istanbul - Cairo

Long day……photo below say it all

We finally arrived in Cairo at about 10:30pm, found our taxi and headed to the Casablanca Hotel in central Cairo. Tomorrow we will be heading to Giza!

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Casablanca Hotel & Suites - فندق كازابلانكا

Today we set out on a tour of a few sites in and around Cairo. First we started off in the Egyptian Museum to take in a few of the main artifacts on display there.

The Egyptian Museum in Cairo is situated on the northeast of the centrally located Tahrir Square. It is one of the largest museums in the world, and the first national museum in the Middle East.

The pyramidion of Amenemhat III is the capstone that once crowned the Black Pyramid at Dashur, Egypt. Crafted around 1850 BC, towards the end of the 12th Dynasty during the Middle Kingdom, it remained mostly intact.

Benben stone

The pyramidion, carved out of single piece of basalt (often called black granite), is mostly intact apart from a broken corner. With a height of 1.40 metres (4.6 ft) and base length 1.85 metres (6.1 ft), it weighs around 4.5 tonnes (9,900 lb). The bottom edges are undercut to keep the block in position atop the pyramid.

The Narmer Palette

This significant palette commemorates the victories of King Narmer, who came from the south of Egypt to invade the Delta in about 3200-3000 BC. The palette was found along with the Narmer Macehead, another artifact which shows the completion of the conquest of the Lower Kingdom. It represents the most important evidence that the first political unification in the history of mankind occurred in Egypt. The two faces of the artifact are topped by the name of Narmer inscribed inside the Serekh, or rectangular frame.

Merenptah

This colossal statue originally represented the 19th dynasty, King Ramses II; his son and successor, Merenptah

Egyptian gate

This sculpted triad, a three-person statue, shows King Menkaure between two ladies. The goddess Hathor is on his right and goddess (Bat) the personification of Cynopolis, the 17th nome of Upper Egypt, is on his left.

Seated Scribe

The sculpture of the Seated Scribe or Squatting Scribe is a famous work of ancient Egyptian art. It represents a figure of a seated scribe at work. The sculpture was discovered at Saqqara, north of the alley of sphinxes leading to the Serapeum of Saqqara, in 1850, and dated to the period of the Old Kingdom, from either the 5th Dynasty, c. 2450–2325 BCE or the 4th Dynasty, 2620–2500 BCE.

Canopic Chest of Tutankhamun

This alabaster canopic chest of Tutankhamun is considered to be one of the finest masterpieces of King Tut’s collection. The interior of the chest is divided into four compartments, each with a cylindrical hollow covered by a lid elegantly carved in the form of the king’s head.

At the four corners of the chest, carved in high relief, are four goddesses: Isis, Nephthys, Neith and Serket, who stretch out their arms to protect the contents of the chest.

Anubis

Anubis is the god of funerary rites, protector of graves, and guide to the underworld, in ancient Egyptian religion, usually depicted as a canine or a man with a canine head.

Yuya

The tomb of Yuya and Thuya, is the burial place of the ancient Egyptian noble Yuya and his wife Thuya, in the Valley of the Kings. They were the parents of Queen Tiye, the chief wife of Pharaoh Amenhotep III. Their tomb was discovered in February 1905 by the Egyptologist James E. Quibell. The tomb was robbed in antiquity but preserved a great deal of its original contents including chests, beds, chairs, a chariot, and numerous storage jars. Additionally, the riffled but undamaged mummies of Yuya and Thuya were found within their disturbed coffin sets. Prior to the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun, this was considered to be one of the greatest discoveries in Egyptology.

Giza Necropolis

The Giza pyramid complex (also called the Giza necropolis) in Egypt is home to the Great Pyramid, the Pyramid of Khafre, and the Pyramid of Menkaure, along with their associated pyramid complexes and the Great Sphinx. All were built during the Fourth Dynasty of the Old Kingdom of ancient Egypt, between c. 2600 – c. 2500 BC. The site also includes several temples, cemeteries, and the remains of a workers' village.

The Great Pyramid

The Great Pyramid of Giza is the largest Egyptian pyramid. It served as the tomb of pharaoh Khufu, who ruled during the Fourth Dynasty of the Old Kingdom. Built c. 2600 BC, over a period of about 26 years, the pyramid is the oldest of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and the only wonder that has remained largely intact. It is the most famous monument of the Giza pyramid complex, which is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Memphis and its Necropolis". It is situated at the northeastern end of the line of the three main pyramids at Giza.

Entering the Great Pyramid to visit the Kings Chamber

There are three known chambers inside of the Great Pyramid. The lowest was cut into the bedrock, upon which the pyramid was built, but remained unfinished. The so-called Queen's Chamber and King's Chamber, which contain a granite sarcophagus, are above ground, within the pyramid structure. Hemiunu, Khufu's vizier, is believed by some to be the architect of the Great Pyramid. Many varying scientific and alternative hypotheses attempt to explain the exact construction techniques, but, as is the case for other such structures, there is no definite consensus.

  • The interior consists of a series of chambers and corridors. The Grand Gallery, a long, ascending passage, is particularly impressive. It features corbelled ceilings and is about 28 feet high, giving a sense of grandeur.

Its the only passageway from the Grand Gallery to the King's Chamber.

Not great for tall people

The King’s Chamber, where the sarcophagus of Pharaoh Khufu is located, is striking with its large granite blocks and a flat ceiling.

Sarcophagus

This is Moses, he was a security guys camel

The Great Sphinx

The Great Sphinx of Giza is a limestone statue of a reclining sphinx, a mythical creature with the head of a human and the body of a lion. Facing directly from west to east, it stands on the Giza Plateau on the west bank of the Nile in Giza, Egypt. The face of the Sphinx appears to represent the pharaoh Khafre. The original shape of the Sphinx was cut from bedrock, and has since been restored with layers of limestone blocks. It measures 73 m (240 ft) long from paw to tail, 20 m (66 ft) high from the base to the top of the head and 19 m (62 ft) wide at its rear haunches.

The Sphinx is the oldest known monumental sculpture in Egypt and one of the most recognizable statues in the world. The archaeological evidence suggests that it was created by ancient Egyptians of the Old Kingdom during the reign of Khafre (c. 2558–2532 BC).

Our lunch - Koshari

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Casablanca Hotel & Suites - فندق كازابلانكا

Second full day in Cairo. I really wanted to see some additional pyramids so for ease sake we arranged another half day guide to visit Memphis, Sakkara and Dahshur Pyramids.

Saqqara (Arabic: سقارة : saqqāra[t], Egyptian Arabic pronunciation: [sɑʔːɑːɾɑ]), also spelled Sakkara or Saccara in English /səˈkɑːrə/, is an Egyptian village in the markaz (county) of Badrashin in the Giza Governorate, that contains ancient burial grounds of Egyptian royalty, serving as the necropolis for the ancient Egyptian capital, Memphis. Saqqara contains numerous pyramids, including the Pyramid of Djoser, sometimes referred to as the Step Pyramid, and a number of mastaba tombs. Located some 30 km (19 mi) south of modern-day Cairo, Saqqara covers an area of around 7 by 1.5 km (4.3 by 0.9 mi).

Pyramid of Djoser

Saqqara contains the oldest complete stone building complex known in history, the Pyramid of Djoser, built during the Third Dynasty.

Enclosure wall of the step pyramid complex

Entrance colonnade of the step pyramid complex

Under the step pyramid is a labyrinth of tunneled chambers and galleries that total nearly 6 km in length and connect to a central shaft 7 m square and 28 m deep.These spaces provide room for the king's burial, the burial of family members, and the storage of goods and offerings. The entrance to the 28 m shaft was built on the north side of the pyramid, a trend that would remain throughout the Old Kingdom.

Worker’s accommodations

The Bent Pyramid is an ancient Egyptian pyramid located at the royal necropolis of Dahshur, approximately 40 kilometres (25 mi) south of Cairo, built under the Old Kingdom Pharaoh Sneferu (c. 2600 BC). A unique example of early pyramid development in Egypt, this was the second pyramid built by Sneferu.

The Bent Pyramid rises from the desert at a 54-degree inclination, but the top section (above 47 metres [154 ft]) is built at the shallower angle of 43 degrees, lending the pyramid a visibly "bent" appearance.

Archaeologists now believe that the Bent Pyramid represents a transitional form between step-sided and smooth-sided pyramids.

The Red Pyramid

It is the third-largest Egyptian pyramid after those of Khufu and Khafre at Giza. The Red Pyramid was one of three pyramids built by King Sneferu after the Bent Pyramid, located one kilometer to the south, and the so-called Meidum pyramid. This pyramid may have been started in the 13th year of his reign, taking 10 years to be built.

We entered the pyramid from an entrance on the northern side, leading to a passageway (a meter in height and a meter in width). It then slopes down to another gallery into a chamber with a corbelled roof, similar to an inverted stairway. Another passage leads to a second chamber located in the middle of the pyramid, directly at the western end of that chamber. To the south of it, a passageway leads to a third chamber, which is believed to have been the pyramid’s burial chamber.

The Black Pyramid

The Black Pyramid (Egyptian Arabic: الهرم الأسود‎, romanized: al-Haram al-ʾAswad) was built by King Amenemhat III (r. c. 1860 BC-c. 1814 BC) during the late Middle Kingdom of Egypt (2055–1650 BC).

It is one of the five remaining pyramids of the original eleven pyramids at Dahshur in Egypt. Originally named Amenemhet is Mighty, the pyramid earned the name Black Pyramid for its dark, decaying appearance as a rubble mound. The Black Pyramid was the first to house both the deceased pharaoh and his queens.

Dates

Memphis was the ancient capital of Aneb-Hetch, the first nome (district) of Lower Egypt. The ruins are located just 20km south of Giza. \240Memphis was the capital of Egypt during the Old Kingdom (ca. 2686 BC–ca. 2181 BC)

Ramesses II at Memphis

The strays are not treated nearly as well in Egypt as they are in Turkey

The Sphinx of Memphis or Alabaster Sphinx is a stone sphinx located near the remains of Memphis, Egypt. The carving is believed to have taken place between 1700 and 1400 BCE, which was during the 18th Dynasty.

Then we headed back to Cairo and explored some of Old Cairo.

Sabil-Kuttab of Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda (Arabic: سبيل وكتاب عبدالرحمن كتخدا) is a historic monument in the historic district of Cairo, Egypt. It comprises a public fountain or sabil, an elementary Quran school or kuttab. A prime example of Egyptian architecture of its time, it was commissioned in 1744 by Abd al-Rahman Katkhuda, a local official who was a prominent patron of architecture.

Khan el-Khalili (Arabic: خان الخليلي) is a famous bazaar and souq (or souk) in the historic center of Cairo, Egypt.

Bab al-Ghuri and shops in the souq

So it was about 10:30pm and we were hungry so we walked 2 minutes down the street to Abou Terek.

Abou Tarek Koshary is located on the corner of Maarouf and Champollion streets in the heart of downtown Cairo’s hectic car mechanics district. At night, the multistory building, fashioned mostly from concrete, is lit up with hundreds, if not thousands, of neon-colored lights.

Koshary, kushari or koshari (Egyptian Arabic: كشرى [ˈkoʃæɾi]) is Egypt's national dish and a widely popular street food. It is a traditional Egyptian staple, mixing pasta, Egyptian fried rice, vermicelli and brown lentils, and topped with chickpeas, a garlicky tomato sauce, garlic vinegar, and crispy fried onions. Sprinklings of garlic vinegar and hot sauce are optional.