Chauffeur pick up 1740 compliments of Emirates - driver was Renee de Boed (a driver that visits Air Center One often).

Always a hard day leaving the house and our girls. Was much easier last year when Rebecca was living with us.

Sian (my cousin) is staying till Saturday then Megan till our return. I know Lulu and Bella will be looked after well 😻😻.

Checkin was seamless and the express lane thru security amazing. Emirates Lounge was quiet and the Moët delicious.

We departed on time at 2110. Very comfortable seats 14E&F and more Moët. Had a light dinner, watched the movie Blackberry and the went to the bar. Very cool. We had a Manhattan.

Slept about 6 hours - great lie flat bed. Watched The Unlikey Pilgrimage of Harold Fry & Master Gardener, both excellent.

2.5 hr stopover in Dubai - a shower and a browse of the shops. Back on board with a flight delayed departure. We are sitting apart to have window seats but unfortunately mine over the wing.

Off to the bar then we will try sleep before London arrival around midday.

Arrived LHR @ 1300. Very quick processing - thru Smart Gate, collected luggage and headed to Emirates Chauffer drive for our drop off to Bailey’s Hotel in South Kensington. Close to Mike’s old crew hotel so he knows the area well. Settled into the room and out at 1600 to Davidoff cigar shop. We’ve seen it on YouTube heaps so nice to see for real. Mike purchased a cigar and we popped across the road to Franco’s and had a couple of bevies while he puffed away. Headed towards Soho and had delicious pasta from a small restaurant with a good house red. Then to the theatre Crazy for You - a musical. My head nodded at times but we got to the end. It was fun.

Hopefully a good sleep tonight.

We both slept well (slightly aided 😆). Headed out locally for brunch then put on our walking shoes to reacquaint ourself with central London. Tube to Green Park onto Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, across the Thames along Southbank. Borough Market for lots of samples and a fabulous salted beef sandwich. Across London bridge back to the city side. Tower of London, St Paul’s, finally a beer and wine then back to Green Park - funny that - close the the cigar shop. This time we found the American Bar at the Stafford Hotel. Lovely garden bar with lots of fellow puffers! \240A couple of vinos and beers.

Off for a curry !

The curry was great then found a pub and \240RWC Japan v Samoa playing. Joined a group of 2 Englishmen and one Ozzie. Some good discussions were had.

Today - Mike headed back to the city to sample another cigar shop JJ Fox. I heading to the V&A, disappointingly the Gabriel Chanel exhibition sold out … till Feb. The Diva exhibition sold out today. I might try again Monday. Walked to Chelsea area and found a M&S stocked up on some basics - boring but can’t go past the quality. Had a lovely walk thru Chelsea streets. Meet up at the Anglesea Arms for a beer wine and fries.

Got the train to Chorleywood- seems Kiwirail not the only one with issues!

So lovely to see the Ray family again. The house looks fab with all the renovations. Baxter the dog is huge. Pizza and wine before we walked to pub for open mic night. Jake played guitar and sang - amazing. First time, very proud to see how grown up he is now at 15. Then Juliet sang with her usual trio but also first time we have seen her perform.

Elle surprised us and got train down from Manchester. Yah.

Slow start to the day.had a late brunch before the lads went to the football. Watford v Middlesborugh. Mike’s first ever football match. Juliet and me took Baxter for long walk around the Common where he ran into his cousin - Xanda. Got washing done.

Curry dinner from local takeaway. Movie - White Chicks.

Good sleep and even better once I knew Megan had arrived and Lulu & Bella were ok. First time they have overnighted on their own - yes I am a “crazy cat women”.

Cloudy day but good for our 30 min walk to the pub for lunch - Sunday roast.

Elle works at the Black Horse during her holidays and James has come to this pub since he was a young lad.

I had to have the fish and chips - delicious. The rest had roast beef.

ABBA Voyage - interesting. Thought there would be more dancing songs but there was new stuff and some crazy animated segments that didn’t make sense. Great experience though and amazing visual effects.

Train back to Chorleywood.

It was a planes and pasta day!

We both headed off on the train towards London.

I alighted at Kensington High St for lunch with my friend Anne Black. We worked at Richard Ellis in Mayfair in 1986/87. Anne married and has lived in Australia for a long time but spends a lot of time in this part of the world.

Anne gave me a list of places to pick for lunch - Jacuzzi did not disappoint. The decor is fabulous, the food was excellent. We both started with a cocktail and then a wine. We shared 2 delicious pasta dishes and the amazing focaccia bread, light as a feather, to wipe up the sauces from both.

A walk through Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park, we had a roadie at Noble Rot in Mayfair.

Mike headed onto Hendon to visit the RAF Museum. He had a great day checking out old planes. On his way back he stopped off at Davidoff and Franco’s.

We both left London around the same time to get train back to Chorleywood and both got stuck due signal failure on the Metropolitan line. Different options were offered but with lots of delays.

I took the Watford all stops option and got off at Croxley and got a Uber from there - £11. Mike got the Chiltern line from Marleybone and arrived about 30 min after me.

Final quick dinner with Elle before she headed back to Manchester. So wonderful to see her.

We head to Spain today.

If all goes to plan, we meet Louise & Neil at Gatwick for a 1940 flight to Bilbao, \240located at the northern part of Spain on the coast.

Train strikes means no Gatwick Express so may take a little longer to get there. All good, we have time, she says confidently!

This morning we will walk Baxter, pack and leave.

Via the Crazy Goat cafe, in Chorleywood village. Good coffee and I finally gave in and had a sausage roll. Delicious.

Thank you to the Ray family for their always fabulous hospitality, and friendship. It’s been four years and for us more mature ones, we don’t see too many changes, but when it’s Elle who last time was 14 and now 18, and Jake last time was 11 now 15, WOW!

It took a couple of hours to get to Gatwick via tube and Thames Link rail. This dropped us at Gatwick South terminal, which is where our flight departs from.

We had checked in online but had trouble with bag tags so headed to customer service. We had purchased 2 checkin pieces but I hadn’t purchased cabin baggage. Who knew. All we were allowed was a handbag onboard, but thankfully due to the light weight of our checked in bags she included our cabin bags. Otherwise it would’ve been £45 each bag.

We then headed to a lounge, thanks to our Priorty Pass card (free with our World MasterCard). There were 2 options at our terminal. This also allowed Louise & Neil to enter. So we enjoyed the bar and food on offer.

Spain here we come 🇪🇸

We arrived late last, good short flight, no issues. Once checked in to hotel tried to find a bar. It was surprisingly quiet but we only needed one to be open, which we found. I enjoyed my favourite Spanish gin and we settled in for a few. Talked to 4 lovely young people from the Netherlands, one here studying the others visiting.

Bilbao, Spain

Late wake up this morning - 1 hr ahead of London time. \240We delayed our meeting time till 1030. There were street protests this morning, topic - wage fairness - lots of noise from protesters and police as we were getting ready and lots of graffiti on the street.

Headed towards the Guggenheim museum, our destination for the day. Found a place for cafe con leche and some breakfast pintxos (tapas).

Guggenheim built here in 1997 and has apparently helped the city become more touristy.

Impressive structure and great exhibitions to while away the hours.

Three main exhibitions;

The Matter of Time - Richard Serra. Amazing steel structures - the pictures don’t do it justice.

Yayoi Kusama - WOW - now 94 - a lifetime of incredible art on all mediums.

Picasso sculptures - some iconic, some …. really!

We came across some \240multi media art including a Gilbert & George.

Mike headed back via the local cigar shop, Louise and I wandered the streets, had a cleansing ale before returning to hotel.

The weather cleared to a lovely sunny day around 26C.

Enjoying an early evening vino and cigar in the streets outside our hotel.

Will report on the evening later.

Later …. Went back to our little Vermouth bar and had a couple of white Vermouths in ice - delicious, along with some La Gilda pintxo (first ever Basque pintxo). We then headed to the square for dinner and came across a group of elderly gentlemen singing. There would’ve been about 30 in the group with a conductor in the middle. Amazing voices and harmony.

Neil then secured us a seat at Victor Montes. We had a delicious dinner and wines to end our first day in Bilbao.

A day trip to San Sebastián by bus 1hr 20min.

Very pretty seaside resort town. Known for its beautiful beaches and pintxo bars.

Very easy waking town. We walk along the seaside boulevard and stopped for lunch at Cafe de La Concha. Delicious salad and wine on a beautiful day.

We then walked to the venicular tram to go \240up up up up. Spectacular views.

Back down to the beach for a swim. Water was lovely. Not as clear as I expected.

Then towards the old town to start our San Sebastián Pintxo experience. We followed a route from the Lonely Planet guide. A lot of places don’t open till 6pm, but we managed to visit four establishments and consume plenty of delicious pintxo and a few different liquid refreshments. Tried the local cider … one was enough!

Bus back to Bilbao at 2200.

Another day trip - to Logrono - wine country. We passed through Logrono in 2016 on Camino. \2401hr 45min had us arrive at 1245. It’s amazing how quiet these towns are until mid afternoon. We walked around and settled for a refreshment by the cathedral. We then found the pintxo street and a particular place - Bar Angel whose specialty was plain old white mushrooms. This was probably my favourite pintxo. Grilled in EVO with garlic served 3 on a toothpick with a small shrimp atop, on bread of course. The oil and garlic soaked thru to the bread. OMG - amazing.

Onto our lunch venue - Taberna Herrerias- interesting choice by Mr P due to its wine list. Very sterile and we figured more of a business lunch zone ….. but awesome food and wine and a very pleasant and comfortable experience.

A roadie at Wine Fandango - a beautiful garden setting.

Our bus trip back to Bilbao 1830. (Read more below).

An organising day. Preparing for our Camino journey. One week on the Camino Norte.

A few things we didn’t have in place, Ie getting to Irun, our starting point. Booked tickets on BlaBlacar - it calls itself a shared ride experience - but actually is a bus company. Only time available 1755 - booked \240✅

Hotel for return to Bilbao in 8 days. Current hotel full. Wanted to store excess luggage but had to use a storage facility - booked ✅

Hotel - found a 2 star down road from current hotel - booked ✅

Flgiht from Bilbao to Barcelona to get our flight home. Should have done earlier as more expensive now - booked ✅

Louise and Neil did another San Sebastián day trip for beach time - they returned at 2030.

We went to the Vermouth bar for a pre dinner drink and met a lovely German couple.

Dinner at 2115 at El Txoko Berria Lovely spot for our finale dinner.

Meet Louise & Neil for a coffee before they left for airport. We finished our packing and left bags at hotel. Went to mass at the Bilbao Cathedral at midday.

Had a delicious salad, and croquettes for lunch.

Dropped bags at storage facility then packs on back and walked to bus terminal - 40 min. It was soooo hot - 30C.

Had a bit of a wait and now on bus to Irun. The bus carries onto Paris.

We arrived Hendaye which is actually France. We walked across the bridge back to Spain. Crazy. A 20 min walk to our 1 star hotel- very very cosy. Changed and out for dinner, beef burgers - delicious.

No air con, windows open, very very noisy on street.

Sleep maybe a challenge.

Day 1 - Camino Norte - Irun - San Sebastián.

Alarm 0630 out the door 0720. It was still dark but action on the streets. Sunrise not till 0815 (so late for us southern hemisphere peps) but as first 30 min walking in streets it was easy to navigate.

Big day ahead - destination San Sebastián. Approx 28 km.

First mistake - Mike not taking advantage of early coffee opportunities. Nothing available till Passia - 4 hrs in/17km

Beautiful walk today. Lots of up and lots of down. Luckily from our burger dinner last night we had leftovers- which were welcome at 1000 when we had our first stop. Onto Passia where we had some lunch and Mike’s first coffee.

Here we needed to cross the harbour via a small boat €1.10 pp. Then the climb out of Passia. Stunning views but gruelling. It went and on until the desent into San Sebastián.

Intro to a fellow pilgrim- we think Renoir from Germany.

We were knackered. On our previous visit to San Sebastián we checked out the Pension we had booked - opposite a massive construction area. Very noisy. Cancelled and rebooked to a place at end of beach.

Great choice. \240An extra 2km to get there, but worth it.

It was an Oasis and a great find. \240Large room, air con, good bathroom.

Settled in and I went for a swim. Gorgeous and refreshing. Mike checked out the local area for dinner which we returned to.

Stocked up with some fruit, water and some pana chocolates for tomorrow’s supplies.

Dinner - popular local spot. Vino and Pintxo. Then an amazing muscle dish. We saw the ladies at next table having it. Yum. Minced muscle with I \240think a bechamel sauce, crumbed and fried in the shell. Yummy. Then to follow - Santiago cheesecake.

Day 2 - Camino Norte— San Sebastián Zarautz

A huge shout out to Mikey. \240He has taken control of this Camino, researched, planned our routing, booked accommodation, led the way. I have walked beside, then usually behind (shorter legs). He has it covered. So far great places to stay close to beach 🥰.

Another massive day. This Camino really is more difficult than previous ones. So much up and down and uneven paths so always have to be watching your step, also tough on the feet. So far so good, one small inconsequential blister each.

We started at 0815 - sunrise. We started climbing straight away and within 20 mins were above the skyline of San Sebastián. It was coolish and for first time I wore a long sleeve top for the first few hrs. Had a couple of breaks on the way to Orio. \240Had fruit, pasties and plenty of water.

We came across this cat - we think a marble bengal. Looked healthy but very hungry. He accepted hard boiled egg and a sweet muffin 😻.

It took us 4.5 hrs to Orio - 16km.

Onward to Zarautz - but not before lots more climbing.

Arrived Zarautz at 1530. Great little hotel close to beach.

Went for swim and had a g&t, Mike a cigar, lovely view.

Had a wander around the town. Can be described as a Mt Maunganui of northern Spain!

Day 3 - Zarautz - Deba

We started early - In the dark hoping to knock off a good chunk of the days walking before the heat set in. We hadn’t quite anticipated the intensity of the inclines and particularly the declines today.

We have so misjudged the Camino Norte - it is hard, which we knew it would be, but we are not quite at the right fitness level.

We really enjoyed the first 2 days - tough enough for us. But today - phew - we made it, but 22km took us 8hrs. Soooo hard. Actually the ups were manageable, but the downs, way too hard. Cobbled uneven steep declines. Too much for this average 60 yr old couple. Tongariro crossing x 3 days would be a walk in the park compared to this.

It is also such a quiet Camino. Today we only came across 3 others. Only one spoke English - Rob. He’s definitely younger and fitter.

We hobbled to our hotel and literally fell onto the bed.

After we semi recovered we headed out to celebrate making it here today. After some contemplation we acknowledged that maybe we have bitten off more than we can chew. We made the decision to not walk tomorrow’s leg, and instead get a cab to our accommodation at the next stop...

The next leg climbs are higher than today which means the declines, in particular one, more intense. Let’s not mention 30deg by 2pm!!

A few drinks down and we settled into a steak dinner. Along came Rob who joined us. Nice guy. He told us his friend just completed tomorrow’s walk and it took 12 hrs. Confirmation we are making the right decision.

Day 4 - day off- taxi Deba - Markina-Xemein

Was so nice sleeping in and having a rest day. Headed to the beach and had a coffee and breakfast treats at a taverna on the beach promenade.

Bought some supplies then took a cab to our accommodation in Markina-Xemein. A lovely spot just out of town. Hotel Antsotegi apparently a 15th converted building.

A very popular spot for fellow pilgrims.

Got washing done and hung outside.

Dinner at 8pm - delicious, prawn risotto, calamari, anchovies,, and a large plate of vegetables. To end some Basque cheesecake.

Day 5 - Markina - Gernika

Started with hotel breakfast, all the pilgrims/walkers there early. We were on the road by 0830. A lovely river walk into the town centre, from there we headed out on our way to Gernika.

Another day of steep climbs and descents. Had a couple of stops, first cafe con leche around 12km.

This is so different from the Camino Frances (usually 5-8km).

We meet John from Cork in Ireland. He’s a solo walker heading to Bilbao.

Seems a lot of people just doing the first 5-6 days to Bilbao.

Again a long tedious decent into town centre.

Hotel Gernika was ours and John’s destination. We meet for a drink in hotel bar then headed to a seafood restaurant for dinner. Delicious.

Day 6 - Gernika - Lezama /Bilbao

Hotel breakfast (and lunch supplies!) at 0700. Again familiar pilgrim faces appeared.

We were on the road at 0750 a lovely walk out of town with some significant spots to note.

We headed for the hills which meant the climbing began. 17km before cafe con leche! \240It was probably the easiest of all days walking, mainly due to the easy decline. We planned to stop in Lezama (12km short of Bilbao and one HUGE mountain climb) and get the train to Bilbao. This we did, but 20min before Lezama it started raining, lightly at first but then very heavy. We donned our rain jackets and kept walking to the train station. \240I felt it rounded off our part of the Camino Norte well. What’s a little rain after 5 days of amazing , albeit hot weather.

Train 5 stops to old town. Checked into the Petit Palace, closed to our previous hotel in Bilbao and it is great. Such helpful and lovely reception staff. Room good. Wish we had stayed here on our first stay.

Laundry done and a visit to Baster our favourite bar, and now to watch NZ v Ireland in RWC quarter final.

Yah - a stressful ending but the All Blacks held onto the lead and won the quarter final against Ireland.

Rob joined us at a pub called Covent Garden, (who the lovely receptionist - Fatima- at our hotel, found for us to watch the game). \240We were the only Kiwi’s there and only a handful of Irish.

Farewell Bilbao. Taxi at 0900 to the airport for a 1150 flight to Barcelona. Checkin was a pain as I thought I’d covered our bags but had to pay additional for carry on. Very strict, and they must make heaps from this scenario. Carry on is only your handbag or it clever a larger full backpack that must fit under seat, not in overhead - you pay for that.

Anyway, got to lounge. Flight only 1 hr. Taxi on arrival to Hotel Astoria, where we stayed last year. Easy to be in familiar area.

We found a Irish pub to watch RWC England v Fiji. Scobies - nice place.

Dinner at Cheri- the local place in plaza outside hotel.

I booked a Spanish cooking class. Started at 1000. So much fun. A visit to the market with lots of knowledge from our chef about different ingredients and products.

12 of us in the class. We helped prep, then cook four courses.

Was delicious. At midday the vino was served while we sampled our culinary efforts.

Mike had a cruisie morning and we met at Casa Baltto, Gaudi’s house. Really great tour and amazing place. Had a drink on the rooftop.

The day ended up being sunny and warm - just a little rain in the morning.

We had a pre dinner drink in the plaza and then went to El Nacional for dinner at LaLlotja. Loved our Kai - all the dishes - seafood - were amazing.

Packed the bags and left them at hotel. We headed to the food markets that I visited yesterday, knowing Mike would enjoy the seafood side of it.

Had a few treats and lunch at a small cafe on side of market.

Wandered a few shops but they all have winter stock so not very inspired.

Airport pickup at 1650, was early 1630. Tried to find a luggage wrapping service but none exist. I past a guy with a large roll of plastic wrap, and yes he was able to do bags but had to be outside of airport terminal. €10. He did a good job. Checkin seamless, through to lounge. But note, once in lounge can’t access all the great stores. Probably a huge saving of $$ in disguise.

First leg 6 hrs, Dubai stopover 5 hrs, second leg 16 hrs. Home Thursday 1050.