The start of our trip to Western Australia
Thanks Glenn for downloading this.
We might go to the beach soon
We are in Perth!
Here we are in Perth and this is the start of my ramblings.
We did a half day trip to the Swan Valley yesterday, which was a food and wine tour with a very nice young man called Safar, Australian, but originally Pakistani. We were lucky enough to be the only passengers. It's a very pretty area and FLOWERS EVERYWHERE!
Dinner last night was at a Korean cafe - really Korean - BYO- and basic, but fantastic food. We were the only non Koreans there. We loved it.
Kings Park today. Getting there was a bit of an adventure. We decided to get a train to Subiaco and then a free "tram" which goes to the park. It's really a tram on wheels and because of the holidays it was full of very small, VERY noisy children. Anyway it was fun, and it left us near the park, and another bus got us closer. Sadly I can't walk for as long as I'd like, but we saw wonderful displays of flowers, had lunch and marvelled at the cross section of the population, and the most interesting variety of clothing. Back at the hotel now and getting ready to try the cocktails at "Wolf Lane", a funky bar near here.
Our room looks out on to a wall with a fantastic mural of a seahorse. I'll try to include a photo.
Well last night was fun, but the \240
Here we are in Kojonup. We picked up a hire car - Corolla ordered and Camry delivered - happy!
After a scenic loop and very nice coffee in Midland, we headed down the Albany Highway towards Kojonup. Lovely drive - state forest first, and many floral roadside "gardens". Stopping almost impossible because of busy road, 110k/hour limit, and narrow shoulders. I just delighted in things to come, particularly enjoying the improbable looking patches of brilliant blue Leschenaultia, scattered at random on the table drains.
Lunch at Wiliams - picnic and quite short, as it was getting late. On the outskirts of Williams Angus was breathalised, so it was just as well we didn't have cocktails for lunch!
Last night - well we didn't get to have cocktails at "Wolf Lane" - closed for a private function. Almost next door was the "Cheeky Sparrow", almost as funky and we really enjoyed it. A couple of wines later we wandered round to Jamie's Italian. It was ok but that's all- good service, but not really great food, though we had a salad full of "ultimate superfoods" and it was great. Home to bed.
Here we are in a cabin lovely setting - trees and birdsong and a huge fire pit near us. We are about to join the party.
Special photo for trish
Kojonup cabin and our hired car
Kojonup caravan park fire pit
It's been a lovely day. The best bit is that I woke this morning with no pain or tingling!!! I can't quite believe it, but it's still almost gone.
While I wait for Angus to pour the wine, I'm starting this. After breakfast we went to the information centre - 10 minutes to opening, so we had coffee at the coffee shop behind it. Good coffee! Angus made me coffee in a mug - ok but grainy. The info centre is great with a little museum and gallery as well as the usual things, and very helpful staff. While on coffee, I asked our lovely hostess, Sharon, if she had a coffee plunger for loan or hire, and no, but at lunchtime there was one in our unit - she'd been shopping. Full marks.
First stop was a reserve a few k's out of town, with fantastic flowers. You'll see! Then back to town for a big shop because shops here don't open on Sundays and Monday is a public holiday, and as we leave on Monday for a reserve with no shops, we thought we'd better stock up.
Home for lunch and much entertainment watching a large group - 2 families, kids and dogs who had just arrived.
We were heading for another reserve, but called at an historic cottage, where the local historical society was having an "afternoon" to name the statue of a horse which they'd bought, display an amazing shed full of old farm equipment, and listen to the local choir the "Southern Singers", and 2 bush poets. We loved it all. It is a small country town, and the people were totally uncomplicated country people. The choir sang 4 songs (very well I thought) - they were, all connected with horses,
Don't Fence Me In
Stewball was a racehorse
Two little boys, which had Angus and me quite misty!
The long paddock
We then had tea with scones, jam and cream, the naming of the horse (Cobber), and the drawing of the lucky door prize, one of which i won! I now have another plastic gardening fork.
We've been having a few drinks round the fire in the fire pit with Helen and Colin (our new best friends). Late afternoon to the Myrtle Bren reserve to view more flowers - light just lovely and lots of flowers.
Our cabinf
Fire pit and camp kitchen
Our cabinflowers from both reserves
Our last day in Kojonup - and wine time so I have to type fast otherwise I make too many mistakes by the second glass.
Its been another pleasant day. After breakfast and laundry, we spent the morning at the visitors' centre.
Before I start on that, Angus is having fun creating gadgets. First a small strainer for coffee. After some searching he found some "wild" wire and made a frame with handle. Then he sewed Chux on it for the strainer. A work of art. Now he's worrying it may be too small - mark 2 coming up? That was finished last night. Today's project is a vertical stand for a roll of paper towel - a thing of beauty, but not finished yet.
The V centre was having a family fun day, which didn't really concern us. However we watched the animal farm being set up while we had coffee/tea and muffins. There is a small museum and art centre which we both enjoyed (for different reasons), a very well stocked shop which I enjoyed, and a wonderful rose maze. The maze has a couple of thousand rose plants, mainly Australian bred. Sadly not many blooming yet, but enough to enjoy. As you are taken through the maze, there are plaques telling the stories of three women, one English, one Aboriginal and one Italian. The stories are written by each woman and span a couple of generations. They are poignant, beautiful and sad.
Home for lunch, then a visit to a beautiful gallery, before doing the second half of the Myrtle Bren reserve. What a lovely walk, with the slanting afternoon light. It was like walking through a meadow covered in beautiful flowers. Now home after an essential pub visit. We are well stocked up. Off to the fire soon to join Helen and Colin.
Stirling range retreat
We spent yesterday getting here and finding out about the "retreat" (really a caravan park), and what's around. We are in a rammed earth cabin double bed and 2 bunks. There's no storage space for clothes except for a few pegs on a central pole. It's quite spacious but only 2 small windows to view the magnificent Stirling range. Yesterday afternoon we sat outside at a picnic table to have a glass of wine. One of the park people drove up and lit a fire in a drum nearby, with the help of a bottle with Dieseline and petrol. It was a great fire so we sat there and were soon joined by two lots of people, both fathers and sons, one had one son, the other twins. All very nice people and we had a pleasant time, before heading off to cook dinner - gas bbq nearby, and light from our faithful phones.
There's no wifi here and limited Telstra coverage, but Angus is finding where he can get a signal.
Today we've booked a wildflower tour with a ranger, which I'm looking forward to as the park is huge and I feel a bit overwhelmed by the difficulty of finding things.
There's a cafe a few metres along the road. I was told we could eat there if we chose. Last night they decided not to do dinner because they were exhausted. The big coffee machine is out of order, which is sad. Three cheers for Angus and his strainer, which he says is unsatisfactory - he made me lovely coffee this morning, but when we get to Albany I'll buy a plunger.
We have 5 nights here so not much communication from me. However we plan to do a couple of day trips around this area, so may get some wifi.
While we were socialising around the fire last night we were treated to a magnificent sunset. I hope Angus's photos do it justice.
Now evening. We've had our sunset drinks around the fire, good company and steak, salad and spuds. I'm struggling to stay awake so will continue later.
We've just had a cup of tea - it's 6.45 and looks like a grey day. We are doing a day trip to the "porongarups" - a national park and wine and food area. We are very low on food as rhe advertised cafe has been a non event. Since we've been here there have been 2 rescue helicopter evacuations. Yesterday morning we went on our wildflower tour - with Bully - an absolute character with a wonderful knowledge of the flora of the area. Like all the best guides he was able to say "l don't know". We went in a little minibus - 5 altogether and Bully. It was a fantastic morning.
We decided we'd have lunch at the cafe afterwards. There was a large group of SES people, ambulance and police there, who had been involved in the rescue. The cafe closed the kitchen to cater for them! We had the last two pies in the place and came home. Today (Wednesday), the cafe closes for the day, so my idea of supplementing our food with meals from there hasn't worked. We'll do a shop in Mt Barker today.
Lovely day yesterday. The scenery is fantastic - heading south towards the Porongarups, the range was spread right across our field of view - \240beautiful. We stopped and did a short walk, then on to a winery cafe for morning tea. It had been recommended for the view and it was wonderful, back across to the Stirling Range. We had tea/coffee and orange and almond cake, and headed west, past lots of wineries, and stopped at the general store for directions to a walk we were told about at morning tea. We didn't do it all - a bit disappointing. On to MtBarker and lunch. A very nice girl at the i centre suggested a cafe where we could log in to the Internet. We spent a couple of hours there, me trying (unsuccessfully) to get more photos on to this journal, dealing with mail etc, as well as having a delicious lunch. It was just a super toasted sandwich, but really good.
Next stop food - the biggest and best IGA I've been in - we even got Kimchi! - then home on a different road, with stunning views of the Stirling range in the afternoon sun, and green paddocks of wheat and canola in the foreground.
We just had time to unpack food and pour a much needed glass when Darren drove up to light the fire. We were soon joined by Gary with sons Xavier and Nicholas,(twins, 16) and Duncan and son Russell, 11. The boys toasted marshmallows, some of them giant, and had fun, and so did we, watching. Russell is very musical - is on a music scholarship to his school. He has been a boy soprano, but says his voice is breaking. After dinner we went out to the fire and he was playing the guitar - "Blue Moon Swamp" - Angus loved it.
This morning, Thursday, we went on a birdwatching walk with a small group, and to my delight we saw Splendid Blue Wrens. The rest of the walk was ok, but not so many birds because it's very dry here.
The highest mountain here is Bluff Knoll. We were going to drive up to the car park and lookout but the access road is closed. A man has been missing for 2 nights, and the search crews are out. There was a tv crowd waiting at the gate. It's been a horror week for emergencies. This is the fifth!
Virginia, our ever helpful park owner and office manager, has lent us binoculars, pegs and has provided much valuable information. She has also provided a coffee plunger because there's no coffee at the cafe. What a gem. Angus has now hung out the washing and we're off on a picnic. He's finished his stand for paper towels- it has dear little gum nut feet! Photo coming.
I meant to write this in Perth - we were having lunch at the Kings Park cafe. An old woman near us answered her phone and said, "Where am I? I'm in Kings Park, Tasmania!!
Back to our picnic - this was a drive right through the centre of the Stirling range. WOW, WOW WOW. The scenery was amazing and continually changing. The range has many jagged peaks and rocky cliff faces. It's been a fairly cloudy day, and so the light changed from sun to shade, and the colours of the mountains changed from almost purple to blue to grey and even brown.
Now I've cleared the decks. The flowers just blew me away. Dear patient Angus drove slowly, (on a corrugated gravel road) and stopped whenever I asked, probably only about fifty times. Of course this is the reason we're here. The flora - some of it - \240occurs nowhere else in the world. It was like driving through meadows of flowers, which changed as the altitude changed. It seemed that almost every tree, shrub and tiny plant was bedecked with flowers, of every colour. I'm smiling as I remember how beautiful it was. I've taken lots of photos, so hope some are ok. I'm about to check them.
We had a picnic at the end of Stirling range drive, and came home. There were still heaps of police, TV crews and SES people around the entrance to Bluff Knoll, so that doesn't look good.
It's earlymorning, windy and grey. They are hoping for rain here as it's been a very dry season here on the northern side of the range. It seems to be in a rain shadow. We are forecast to get 5 - 20 mms today. While we'd rather have fine weather, I hope they get some too.
The road to Bluff Knoll is open. Soon after we got home yesterday, the searchers found a body. Very sad, the other emergencies were injured people helicoptered out.
We joined the usual suspects around the fire. Darren had a word to say to the boys about building too much fire and the danger. They promised to put it out before they went to bed. Both other parties leave today. Wonderful Xavier helped me get the photos on to the journal. He showed me how to "air drop"! \240I wish I'd tapped into his expertise sooner!
The socks which appear from time to time were a present from Trish to Angus. They are regularly texted from him to her.
Now afternoon. We drove up to Bluff Knoll car park this morning. First stop was cafe - machine fixed, and the coffee was very good. We booked for dinner. The menu is very short, and of the meals, steak and vegetarian lasagne aren't available tonight. We've ordered lamb shanks with vegs. The road \240to Bluff Knoll car park wound its way through "gardens" of flowers, with several botany stops. The car park, at the top of a steep bitumen road, is big and very impressive. Lots of metal walkways and fences around the edges, and just as well because it was blowing a gale, good loos, viewing areas with seats. The views of the towering knoll and wonderful angled rock strata are amazing. The other views to the "sunlit plains extended" are also fantastic. Sadly, none of our scenic photos have done any sort of justice to the beauty and majesty of the Stirling range. While up there, I had a bit of phone signal, and got a text from Alison.
At the bottom of the climb we sat in the car for about half an hour, hoping to see blue wrens where we'd see them yesterday. When Angus went to start the car, no luck. We don't know why, but turned it off and waited 15 minutes and it started.
We had a storm here just after lunch, which will make everyone happy. We have been a few k's north to visit a Dutch windmill, only to look, and called at a servo cum store, with an amazingly eclectic collection of things. The storm had headed south and the ranges were again spectacular in sunshine with stormy clouds. Back home and trying to remember what Xavier did last night with the photos!
Bluff Knoll
All the cabins here have names. Ours is Mondurup. I want to find its meaning before we leave.
Our last morning in the Stirling Range, and what a special place it is.
Last nights dinner was entertaining. We walked over to the cafe - there are paths through the bush. They had a few puddles but not too bad. Our host, Chris, wouldn't win a hospitality prize, but he's quite pleasant in his own way. We'd ordered lamb shanks and vegetables in the morning, for 6.30. Wine is only sold by the bottle, but it's all local. I had a Riesling and it's very nice, and Angus liked his too.
A party of 12 arrived in a minibus late in the afternoon, and moved into most of the other rammed earth cabins. They arrived at the cafe, and occupied the long table set for 12 in the centre of the room. They were only offered 3 choices of food - fish and chips, or 2 different hamburgers. Chris makes it obvious that it's all very hard work for them, being "so remote" - 90 k's from Albany!!
It poured with rain while we were dining, and the walk home was interesting. The puddly paths had turned into little streams. We didn't get too wet, and we had phone torches so all was ok...........
ALBANY
we heard from three different sources that the Middleton beach caravan park was good, so here we are. We rang as soon as we got a signal on the way down, and got the last cabin - school holidays. We have a lovely cabin, two bedrooms (one for a storeroom), nice kitchen living area, and our bedroom, with 2 bedside tables, each with a bed light!! First time this trip. We've logged into the wifi, and so all my entries should now be available.
Lunch at a fish shop which won "best in WA" this year. Great - nannygai - which seems to have a variety of spellings. It was delicious, served with a Thai salad and half a single serve of chips.
We did a scenic drive round to the town centre, lovely, though maybe tomorrow will be prettier. It's misty and cold today. Visited the I centre to plan tomorrow's wildflowers, and came home.
Off to the surf club for a drink, then dinner somewhere. There seem to be quite a few good choices here.
We intended to have a drink at the surf club before dinner. Well it appears the club is just that, with no bar etc.. We wandered on to a bar/ restaurant, right on the foreshore, with a lovely view of sea. (We felt it was a cold day, about 17 degrees, but three women were happily swimming in the late afternoon chill.). The clever designers had built a lovely children's playground between the glass wall of the bar and the sea. It was busy and we sat for a couple of hours, watching the locals, drinking some very nice wine, and eating some garlic bread, and soup. After the delicious lunch we didn't feel like much food.
We'd heard there was a boatshed market on the town wharf area today, where we could get some sourdough bread. We planned an early start, after a cup of tea. This morning I re read the brochure, to find it started at 10am. Plan b - breakfast here then coffee around the corner, then town by the scenic route. Good coffee, and the market was roughly where we expected. Bread bought, then local oysters (lunch soon), some very fresh fish, marinated local sardines, an Italian woman's stall for pickles and marmalade and biscuits. I love the biscuits, Angus doesn't. I don't know if that's good or bad. Also got some local oranges and grapefruit.
The coffee plunger search continues: there was an IGA open, also on the wharf - even bigger and more amazing than the one in Mt Barker, however no small plungers.
I have tried to add to my last entry and it won't let me. The last photos were taken on the beach in front of the caravan park.
We drove to a national park nearby, and I tried taking photos with the iPad. They're not nearly as good, so back to the phone - now I know about air drop its much easier.
Fish last night very good - a local fish called "cobber" I think. There must be some sort of synchronicity with the name - horse in Kojonup! We had a bit left for breakfast, with last nights salad and of course an egg.
Today didn't go quite as planned, as I'm having more problems with shoulder and arm. We went to whaling station, as there's a native plant garden beside it. Coffee first, overlooking sea, cliffs and islands. It's a much prettier day, so a great spot for morning tea. I bought a ticket to the garden, while Angus didn't do a lot. He'd planned to read his book but brought the wrong one - already read - and then lay back in the car and slept!
The garden suffers from "delusions of adequacy". There were some lovely flowers, as seen in photos, however very few were named, one of my reasons for going. The entry costs $15, or $12 for seniors, which includes what is grandly called a map. I couldn't make head or tail of it and neither could anyone else I met in there. The signage is confusing. I had to ask how to escape, and then it was difficult. I finally succeeded, and we pressed on to the natural bridge and cantilevered viewing platform, which is scary to a wuss like me. Angus stayed in the car as we did it last year, but today it was really pretty. I also enjoyed the massive granite boulders, with dark veins of granodiorite. I know that's what it was because I read the signs.
We cut short the rest of that excursion, because I needed to sit still. Back to visit the favourite uncle for supplies, before having lunch at "Kate's Place" - a cute little cafe in the historic precinct.
We have a coffee plunger! We found a KMart, and are now $6 poorer. Then a trip to Woolies for a few things, and home. Angus has wrestled with the Internet, so we have a talking book for our travels. Tomorrow we leave for Bremer Bay, but now it's wine o'clock, and dinner at the fish shop voted best in Australia last year.
These are from yesterday - today's will follow I hope
I'm watching a misty pink dawn at Bremer Bay. We came here from Albany yesterday, as its on the Eastern edge of the Fitzgerald river national park. We are staying in a lovely "chalet" right across from the beach,in the BB caravan park. It's actually a 2 bedroom cottage with verandah on one side, all very new, with a coffee pod machine!!!
You learn something every day. I just took this photo to try to put it in, and succeeded! Wow!
The cabin also has a gorgeous bed - it felt like I was sleeping on clouds.
We are here for 3 nights, and today it's Nat park mainly, with a visit to the op shop this morning, because, according to a local, it's much more than that, and not to be missed. Yesterday we just tried to find our way around, and it's quite confusing, but there's lots of bright white sand and aquamarine water - very pretty.
Angus has washed his socks! Impressed Trish?
Phoebe's birthday!!
Yesterday's entry didn't get finished because we heard from Fay that Allan had died, and we needed time to cope with that.
We, or rather I, had a change of plan yesterday morning, (just like Tom, said Angus.) First stop was the op shop - a very good example of the "genre". Very neat and organised and big. Lovely people running it. The books were fantastic and we bought several, to be left behind and swapped when finished. I bought a beanie for $4, in a terracotta colour, a fine china tea cup, as all the cups we've had are/have been huge and thick - coffee this morning tasted better. We used the pod machine yesterday, but plunger today - it may be the coffee, (or the maker or cup) but I liked it more today. Our total outlay at the shop was $21, proceeds to RFDS.
After that splurge, we called at a coffee shop, before checking out several beaches and side roads, and of course many Botany stops. We'd been told we must have lunch at the museum/cafe, so obediently we did. A local family, the Wellsteads, were early settlers in this area, raised many children, cattle etc. They built lovely stone houses, which are still there, along with the fourth generation of the family. Now there is a museum, cafe, outhouses, farm stay cottages, as well as the original homestead which the family lives in. It is still the Wellsteads family. All the buildings are built of the same stone, most attractive. Cafe nice, tastefully decorated. We both had fried squid and abalone, with very nice vegs and salad. The dish confirmed our feelings that abalone isn't exciting, and tough. Apparently it can be cooked so it's tender, but maybe it's like boiling a crow and a rock! Squid lovely.
There is an abalone farm only a few k's away, and we went and had a look, from the outside only, but it's huge and I think most is exported. It was here that we heard about Allan, so came home and had a cup of tea and rest, before checking out the rest of Bremer Bay.
Friday 11th Oct
It's late afternoon. We've been to Point Ann in the Fitzgerald River National Park. It was 72 k's from here mostly on gravel road, but a real "must see". The park has really distinctive flora, particularly the Royal Hakea, which dominates parts of and is truly spectacular.
We had many stops on the way as there was lots to see.
Point Ann is spectacularly beautiful with aquamarine water and white sand. They say you can see whales and their calves, and we looked but failed to see any. We had a picnic lunch there, then came home with a few more stops.
It was quite hot, so we had a beer at the hotel, and came home for a sleep.
Saturday, 12thOct
We sadly left our lovely little house and headed for Ravensthorpe.
I inadvertently deleted 12-10-19 entry.
These photos are yesterday's.
13-10-19
Esperance
I will do today's journal, and hope the other can be retrieved.
The cabin we were in last night left almost everything to be desired. It's only saving grace was that it had 2 bedlights! It was tiny, cramped, grotty, and the bathroom was a tiny slit.
This morning we decided to ask if we could have a bigger cabin. We are now in a 2 bedroom one, which is about 200% better in every way, and all for an extra $20/ night, and it also has bedlights.
There were markets in the town centre, which we visited, hoping for local produce. Not much available, but we got kale, lemons and olive oil, as well as some Indian parcels for lunch, delicious. I managed a little bit of retail therapy also!
Home to change cabins, then off to Cape Le Grand Nat Park. It was simply lovely, and for me, complete sensory overload. Not only were there great flowers, but the majestic granite rocks were totally awesome. The water had every shade of aquamarine through to deep blue, pure white sand, gorgeous beaches all shaped by rounded pinkish granite. We were limited by not having a 4WD, but loved it all. The photos don't do it justice. Picnic lunch overlooking Lucky bay, with the light and water colours changing by the second. The flowers I had to look for because the season has been early and is over, but I found lots as seen in the photos.
The roses in the photo were in the garden of the Stonehenge replica, where we stopped on the way back from Cape Le Grand. I asked the name, was told, and have forgotten it.
The Stonehenge replica is an exact replica of the English one as it was originally. It lines up on the solstices with sunrise and sunset. It was quarried almost on site, and the stones are the same beautiful granite as Cape Le Grand.
It seems incongruous for it to be so new and perfect.
Home to settle into the new cabin.
That's where I stopped yesterday. Stonehenge all new and sparkling doesn't seem the same, but it's certainly impressive.
We found about the only open shop in Esperance (Sunday) to buy some supplies, then parked on the town seafront - free wifi, as there's none here. \240I needed to pay the credit card. Well I hooked into the wifi, got mail, but wasn't able to persuade the Westpac site to open. Angus used his hotspot.
Home to unpack, open the bar, and cook dinner.
Having deleted my long entry for 12th Oct, I'm attempting to recreate it.
Bremer Bay to Jerramungup, where we planned to and did have morning tea. There was a "biosphere"garden in the tourist information. It looked really interesting. We got the brochure (very elaborate) from the I centre. It was a real disappointment, having started as a great planting of local plant communities. I don't think it had been watered for months, and most of the named plants had vanished, to be replaced by dying weeds. Sad.
On to Ravensthorpe, which is on a range, so some lovely scenery getting there. We got to the caravan park, office empty, so rang. Girl was at lunch, so we said we'd do that too. I had seen what I thought looked like a good cafe on the way, and Angus said I mostly have good radar for these things - wrong! We ordered lunch, asked where the loo was - 200 metres up the street at the park! We trudged there and back, when she started making lunch - pretty terrible. Finally escaped and booked into our cabin. It was ok, old and fairly spacious but quite odd. The park had an enclosure with a couple of alpacas and a sheep - very bare of anything green, but they were fed plenty of hay.
We'd planned to do a scenic drive after lunch, but I felt quite sick, so quiet afternoon. Dinner at the pub - 5/10, and home to bed.
Next stop Esperance.
Now today, 14 th Oct.
In Esperance, Monday is hardly a day!
We had a lazy morning, then set out for the Helm Arboretum. The entrance had a "road closed" sign on part of it, but there was also a track in, so we proceeded. We soon found ourselves beside a grader and a man who told us the road was closed. He then grudgingly said we could go as far as the pine trees. We drove round, there are stands of trees, all the same with named posts, and I'd love to know more about it because the place has a very spiritual feel to it and we weren't able to see it all.
There was an animal nursery and coffee shop across the road, where we had morning tea, and didn't pay the entrance fee to see the animals. We were fascinated by some lovely shaggy highland cattle beside the entrance.
Back to town,with a few detours, looking for an egg farm, and visiting a little bay and marina - pretty. We had decided to have lunch somewhere nice and snacks for dinner. Well - in Esperance, pretty well everything closes on Sunday. On Monday, apparently eating is a low priority- any place which might have been nice was closed, and most on Tuesdays for good measure.
Maybe the tourist brochures could mention that Esperance is best visited from Wednesday to Saturday!
We had toasted sandwiches, did a few necessary things, and came home and turned on the heater, because it's cold.
Our last day in Esperance.
Our major tourist activity was the scenic loop, along the coast and then inland. However before that we wanted to find a seafood shop we'd seen across a little bay. It wasn't too difficult, but the only fresh fish the charming Italian shopkeeper had was shark, and it didn't appeal.
Next stop petrol, then a craft shop for elastic so Angus's track pants will stay up. (He's now replaced elastic so we can breathe a sigh of relief.) Then a new battery for Angus's phone, before we started on the "Coastal Tourist Drive".
We were lucky it's been a sunny day. The scenery is truly stunning. We did the drive last year too, but I loved it all over again. I can't describe the beauty of it all - the photos will mostly do it, but they haven't quite captured the brilliant blues, greens, and every colour in between. There was a brewery on the trail map, where we dreamed we might have lunch. Well, it wasn't there. Back to town, finally, and having failed to find any exciting place open, went to a fast food/ice creamery. This was because we discovered yesterday that it's one of two places in town which stocks local sourdough bread. A woman makes it, at irregular intervals, and they sell it. It sells out immediately. The woman said they hadn't had any for a couple of weeks, but she managed to find me a loaf. It's stale, but lovely toasted. That was yesterday. Today we went in, and a steady stream of locals came and went. Angus had a homemade pie, and I had beef rendang and savoury rice. It was delicious. Wasn't I lucky!
This afternoon we went in search of an advertised wetlands walk. It took a while to find because of my faulty navigation. When we got there it seemed unappealing, and the wind was cold - it's only about 16 degrees (I can't find the symbol) here today, so we came home and had a nice cup of tea!
Angus has just announced that he's going to be proactive and get us a drink, which sounds like a great idea to me.
Kalgoorlie
Here we are inland - and it feels so different. The air is drier, and I can feel my skin shrivelling up!
We left Esperance about 8.30, and then decided to listen to a talking book that Angus had downloaded. After about 15 minutes, stopped, we were defeated, and drove on.
The vegetation changed quite soon as we drove North, and became greyer and softer in colour. The famous Salmon gums appeared, and continued then for most of the way.
Morning tea at the settlement of Salmon Gums roadhouse. All the roadhouses are distinctive and some are pretty dreadful. This one was spacious, clean and a very nice and willing girl made coffee just how I like it. I asked for the cup half full, as it was pretty big. Coffee 8/10!!! We shared a nearly hot pie. While I was negotiating the morning tea, clever Angus got the book going in the car!
It's a murder by Ann Cleeves, and I'm really enjoying it. I'll add the name when I find it.
The roadside vegetationn was fascinating - many botany stops. Almost everything I looked at was in flower, but they were so tiny you had to look closely. There was even a Quandong tree with bright red fruit. The understory plants could almost have been in a formal garden. Many shrubs were rounded as if they'd been clipped. The beautiful gums formed the top layer, but fairly well spaced.
Norseman for lunch. We stayed there last year, but it was a much more furbished town this time, with lovely street gardens of annuals, newly painted edges, and a gorgeous garden of scented roses all covered in flowers, in front of the council chambers. The corrugated iron camels had been there before, but the garden around them was also blooming.
The publican directed us to one of 3 cafes, and what a good choice. We had veges and noodles, Thai style, and both really enjoyed it.
Talking of roadsides, from Albany to Esperance, there are flowering Gazanias all along the roadsides in the settlements. I suspect they are a bit of a problem, but pretty.
There were many stops along the way. Kalgoorlie at about 3 pm. We were confused by getting to Boulder first and went back for a few k's, before getting it right. The Jacarandas are in full bloom. By the time we found the motel, unpacked the car etc, it was late enough to feel the bar should be open soon, so we didn't go anywhere, as there's a restaurant here where we had dinner, but not again!
Norseman camels
Sally's and Coatesy's birthday.
It's 6.30 am and we've spoken to them both briefly.
We had a good day yesterday. First stop was information centre, where we got maps etc and booked a tour on an old wheeled tram to show us the city. Jack, driver was good and we really enjoyed our 2 hours. We saw the "super pit", the vast open cut mine, designed by Alan Bond. I loved the colours of the earth in the layers.
A visit to Chunky's wood shop and "factory" was fun. He is a personality, and makes some lovely things, so I'd like to return today.
Boulder Town Hall had this amazing theatre curtain, painted by a man called Goatcher. It's supposed to be priceless. The whole hall is quite beautiful. I'm not sure if it's used now or is just a museum piece. Boulder Main Street, Burt St has flowering Jacarandas all along - looks gorgeous. Oh, the Gazanias are here too! We visited the RFDS base, briefly and drove by lots of beautiful old buildings.
Lunch in a coffee shop in the Main Street, Hannan St, then home for a little rest before visiting a park and woodland garden, neither of which was very inspiring.
We drove up to Mt Charlotte lookout, which is the end of the water pipeline. The town water is piped 560 k's from Mundaring weir, outside Perth. The average rainfall here is less than 10 inches, but the public areas are green, lovely gardens, with annuals, and the roses are just fantastic, bushes looking frothy, covered with gorgeous blooms. The pipeline was opened in 1903, and is still functional, designed by an engineer called O'Connor, who was ridiculed by many people who said it couldn't work. Sadly he committed suicide before his design was proved to be a success.
We visited the old and once very grand Palace Hotel, and had a drink in the balcony bar, which was very pleasant.
Dinner at Cecilias tapas bar and restaurant. It was great, with a guitarist and singer. The guitarist was very good, and played the biggest guitar I've ever seen. It was a good night.
Super pit
Tram
Theatre curtain
I'm getting my days muddled, but I'm now up to Friday's doings.
We got maps and speaking sets with earphones, to do self guided tours of Kalgoorlie and Boulder, and set off. It was interesting, but too long so didn't finish. The mining museum was part of the tour, and we spent quite a long time there, and tacked ourselves on to a free guided tour, with a very enthusiastic and knowledgeable woman. We then drove to Boulder to photograph the Jacarandas, have lunch, and find Chunky's wood products shop again - this took some time, but we got there. Back to Kal. to find a couple of shops I'd read about, then home for a rest. The man at Cecilias told us that a drink on the verandah of the Kalgoorlie hotel at sunset was a must. Obediently we were there, and it was spectacular. Dinner there - not too bad, chops and vegs.
Town hall with gold plated dome!
Boulder Jacarandas and town hall.
Wave Rock/Hyden
We left Kal just before 8am - discovered that the cleaning staff had thrown out our two boxes we use to pack food supplies etc., sadly the travelling cutlery with our two good knives, a loaf of bread and other bits and pieces were in them. We asked at the office, but "Saturday is not a day" in country WA, so the one girl on duty couldn't help, but she gave us another box to pack into.
Our biggest day on the road - just over 500k's to Hyden. It was very pleasant, as we are still listening to our murder mystery, "The Long Call". Also, we both found the vegetation, particularly the magnificent trees (and tree trunks) really beautiful. There were patches where the roadsides turned gold, with tiny everlasting daisies. There were also other flowers, where obviously there had been some rain. Many botany stops!
the caravan park at wave rock is good - we have a very nice roomy cabin, with little verandah. Unfortunately the flies are so bad that any thoughts of sitting there have to be abandoned. Clever Angus brought our fly veils, so we can walk in comfort.
We did the short walk to the rock then came home and settled into evening drinks, and a fairly funny dinner - all the vegies left, cabbage, sugar snaps, onion and potato, plus boiled eggs, and some pickled sardines from Albany. The stove has 2 old solid hotplates, but no markings on the controls. Again, thanks to you know who, who fiddled until we got some heat.
After breakfast, we packed up, then drove a few k's up the road to "The Humps" - more granite outcrops, where there is a cave - Mulka's cave. There is quite a lot of aboriginal rock art and it's a beautiful place, felt quite spiritual.
Back to the cabin to pack the car and then we visited the cafe, lace museum, toy soldier museum, wildflower display, gift shop, coffee shop. I went in first and shot straight out again. Right at the entrance was a stuffed bird display, the centrepiece of which was a huge eagle with outspread wings. Angus went in and asked if there were another entrance - yes. We went in had a quick look round, decided all the collections were not our thing, had a nice morning tea and headed for York.
We finished the book just as we arrived so that's a relief \240- now we know whodunit!
YORK
Last day of the trip - last entry. York is a pretty little historic town, only an hour from Perth, so it's touristy but feels nice. We are staying at a lovely old hotel (130 years) which was derelict until about 6 years ago. Six couples from nearby properties combined and bought it, fully renovated it, and it's been open for a year, apparently doing very well.
There is a courtyard at the back, and small very pretty rooms, which were once the accommodation for the staff of wealthy travellers. That's where we're staying. The room looks lovely, has a gorgeous bed, pillows and cushions, but no chair, table or hanging space.
We had a pleasant night - had a glass of our own wine in the courtyard where others were having drinks, then into the bar at the front, as we felt we'd better buy some wine. We met two of the owners (not a couple), and took our wine upstairs to watch the sunset. It was pleasant up there but sunset a fizzer. We looked out on to the town hall - a quite amazing building.
Downstairs for more wine and dinner then bed.
The country all the way has had miles and miles of wheat crops, all nearly ready for harvesting. It looks short, compared to the Queensland wheat. A man in the bar said its not a good year, and it is a shorter variety.
York gardens awash with roses
On the way to Perth
On the way to Perth
This morning, before leaving York, we had breakfast at Nguyen's bakery/cafe, as the hotel doesn't do it. It was a very good choice, in spite of some ordering difficulties. We finally just settled for the "engrish" breakfast. Very nice too - bacon, eggs, hash browns, tomato, fresh salad, and lots of buttered toast. We managed to eat it all except the toast. Great coffee too. Only 96 k's to Perth, so we arrived at the Ingot hotel about 10 am. The car hire people were only 1 k away. We dropped all the luggage and me at the hotel, and I checked in while Angus returned the car. It's a very nice spacious room, and I'm not sure what we do for the rest of the day, but they ferry us to the airport leaving at 5.15 am.
WE ARE HOME
We had a really lazy afternoon at the hotel, read books slept, dinner and bed.
There were quite a lot of people going to the airport, at least 2 mini buses full. The airport was a sea of high vis shirts, so all going to mines etc.
Breakfast there, not very good, a another one (worse) on plane. It was great to be on the ground in Brisbane, met by Eva, our house sitter - very kind of her. Angus wasn't well when we got to Bris, thinks it was food at Perth airport. We managed to leave a suitcase on the footpath, which is being held for us, so Angus is going down for it today. What a pain.
Our car is cleaner and shinier than when we bought it, thanks to Eva and Eun, as is the house - it looks and feels lovely. Eva had provided the makings of dinner for us, plus all the basic essentials, which was great. Rosie very happy too. They really were wonderful house sitters. We were very lucky.
End of a lovely holiday.
I want to write a daily diary just for me.
Yesterday was the first day home after our WA trip.
I didn't know where to start, but texted Fay to see if she wanted to see me. She called in after a visit to the GP. We had a cup of tea and talked about Allan and his death and Bridge then more Allan, cremation etc. She's having a bad time, but is strong and will get on with life. I went round to Dicky Beach to get something for morning tea and found a new coffee shop, "Between the Flags" which sells cakes etc from van Wegens. Not the very best, but better than local bakery.
Angus went down to airport to get the case we'd left behind, and got home just before Alison G dropped in. She's staying at Marcoola in Amanda's unit. It was good to see her.
Afternoon was food shopping, and then I bought some seedlings and planted them, as Eva and Eun had weeded some of the vegie garden, and there was bare soil, so hope they're still there and the turkeys haven't dug them up.
It was lovely to have drinks on the verandah, then chicken stew and bed.