The incarnation of this trip started with this message to a few:

“News to share:

I think some of you know that a job is on the horizon. I’ll fill you in on that soon as it’s happening pretty quickly.

BUT I wanted to share that I’m going to go on a week long ‘pilgrimage’ walking the Camino de Santiago (Portugal route into Spain) the week of my birthday. I felt like maybe it was a way to try to start the new year, come to grips with what’s happened & do something to mark this new ‘3rd act’. \240So, \240I’ll be walking & crying alone for a week, ending at an old big church. I’ve never vacationed alone-as much as I traveled solo for work-so this will also be a new first. \240I’m brave. I can do this. I’ll share the trip details so you all can follow along.

And I DO hope to celebrate my birthday with you all at some point when I get back.”

My mother made this trip happen. \240This is very much in the vein of my parents & their lust for travel & adventure. (And a Sean-lite version of something he would have done)

So here we go…

I landed in Porto, Portugal yesterday for a quick 24 hours before I make my way north to start the Camino de Santiago trek. \240Porto is Quirky Beauty. \240Amazing texture overload-tiles, bricks, stones, prints applied to every surface. I’m #obsessed. Red tile roofs abound. The hills could kill a person. I kept getting lost in the endless maze of steps, dead-ending and then right back up or down again. If I lived here I would have the butt of a much younger person. There were clothes drying on clotheslines at every turn which i found charming. I loved my hotel. Drank Port (white-who knew this was a thing?) ate the Pastel de Nat. \240And went to The Most Beautiful Book Store in The World. (you need reservations). Scott Simpson was with me in spirit appreciating the ever present blue & white color story as that was his jam. Great kick-off!

I arrived in Tui last night after crossing the Portugal/Spain border on a super cool bridge. \240I noticed that there was almost no one in town. In fact I was the ONLY person at my hotel (tried not to let thoughts of The Shining creep in😳).

Real Panic set in this morning when I realized that there is not only anyone at the hotel doing this Camino thing, but likely no one in town & no one to check in with! The hotel proprietor escorts me out the door to the town square where he kind of nudges me in a direction. In shock, I wander in the rain for a bit trying not to freak out, I find a blog on line that seems promising, & ask a man on the street for directions. He speaks no English, but promptly tries to help, escorting me through the old town towards the needed street. He suddenly stops at a convent where one can speak to nuns through the wall (like confession).He ushers me in, waits with me, \240introduced me to an 80 year old nun behind the screen & explains that the nuns sell baked goods to raise money. I buy something, and tell her my story as we chat -birthday/husband/ doing the Camino solo-in Spanish & start to cry. She tells me to wait & because I can’t see her, I’m not sure if we are praying or what, so I stand still until she returns bringing me a prayer card sweetly assuring me to just remain tranquil & everything will be ok. 😊

Lessons presenting themselves already!! *Stay calm. *Slow down. *You can find solutions (Google is your friend)*Open your eyes to see the signs (literally) that will show you the way.

I made my way out of town and walked through beautiful woods/so much moss/small old towns/miles through a stinky industrial park, without ever seeing any travelers. All the listed cafes/bathrooms along the path were closed. \240But you know what? \240I did it. I found my way. \240Maybe you can teach an old dog new tricks.

I always think that I’m in pretty good shape. Until I go somewhere that has hills.

Hallelujah! The sun was shining today! It was certainly a better start-no panic about not knowing where I was going. \240(Practicing my lessons from yesterday). \240It was a long route through towns, farmland, residential, woods, & terrifying highway shoulder walking. All of it uphil! 🤔 I actually laid eyes on 2 travelers today but it was another solo day of travel. I met and talked to a several locals along the way. Always exchanging names and waving my hands to supplement my Spanish. \240They were engaging & wished me Buen Camino & HBD encouraging me to work on my Castilian. \240Amazing what a smile & greeting will do.

I just happened to sit next to a family at lunch who was celebrating their daughter’s birthday. \240Without knowing it was my mine as well, she asks if I would like a piece of their cake.😍 I said no but shared that it was also my big day! She was turning 37. I said “mismo”.

I had conversations with Sean all day. First he was laughing that my pack was too heavy & I ditched it for a string backpack. (He learned this through trial & error) And my feet are comfortable wearing wool socks stolen from his drawer (he used to bust me doing this thieving all the time but I figured he was ok with it now😊)

My hotels offered me celebratory drinks & I had sweet messages from friends & fam. I can’t thank you enough for your love & support.

The birthday was quiet, happy & different than any other I’ve had. \240Which is just what I was hoping for.

Blisters the size of jellybeans on my feet, quickly followed by being picked up by the local police was how my day started. 😳😂 I actually wish it was for some thing outrageous I’d done, but he stopped to help me & just dropped me off by the trail. He was more interested in how I was enjoying Galicia than arresting me, thankfully.

Shorter day today. Mostly wooded or remote. Totally solo again. \240Shared my banana w/ a horse. (never has it been more evident that I’m a city girl than in that video). \240Met & chatted w/the adorable Jorge who was tending his orchard. I so wish I had captured him on video explaining the how’s/when’s/why’s of his grapes. But I’m happy that my Spanish is getting a tad stronger & we could have this conversation.

Some observations from today:

1-if you ever get the chance to walk through a eucalyptus & pine forest. DO IT! \240There is no way to describe how lovely it is to be surrounded by this scent. So beautiful, clean & fresh.

2- there are churches everywhere. I mean zillions of them. The one in the picture was built in the 1600’s and sits nestled side to side with suburban houses. They just built around it never thinking to tear it down. Amazing. I wish we thought that way.

Arrived in Pontevedra early enough to sit in the square and sketch, giving my feet a rest. \240And…there are people here!!

Waiting for dinner that is never served before 8:00 “because that is the Spain way “ before an early bedtime.

It’s getting harder to get up/out early. Repacking is getting tougher-too many things need shuffling. \240But the blisters are better-still there, but dulled a bit.

Kicked off the day with a visit to the big market in Pontevedra. Beautiful fresh fruits and vegetables and loads of seafood. Loved seeing people shopping and vendors talking about their product. Much of the seafood was so fresh it was still moving!!

Crossed the old bridge and was on my way. Happy to have some more of those beautiful smelling trees to walk through again today. Plus I saw waterfalls which was always a thing for the 3 of us.

I will say one thing about walking the Camino in Jan is that everything is closed. Even those listed as open. \240So in addition to being thirsty &/or hungry the fact that there are no restrooms is the biggest rub.

Today after having water and trail mix from my pack for lunch at 2:00, \240a man walking by asked if I was a pilgrim. \240I said yes after I figured out the translation. ‘Alone?’ ‘Yes-Can you tell me where I can find a cafe that is open?’ \240‘That would be mine. Except that it’s closed. Until March. But walk with me and I’ll open and make you a coffee.’ We walk exchanging stories. His bar is right on the Camino, he opens it and in we go in. (I hope he doesn’t plan to kill me as my mom will be pissed) but we sit and chat for almost 2 hours. Family/ politics/ travel/outlooks on life. Showed him Sean’s pics. Kate & Archie’s too. We lost our dads 1 year apart. He showed me trinkets left from travelers from PR & the John Deer tractor hanging on the wall that used to be his grandfathers. Sometimes we aren’t as far away from home as we think.

He spoke no English. All of this conversation took place with my scrappy Spanish! \240I’m going to call that a win & vow to start relearning the language I learned as a kid.🗣️

Almost to the finish line.

My first helper of the day, Jose, just yelled instructions across the highway assuming that the Camino connection might be hard to find. I didn’t ask, or even know he was there, but I’m grateful that he did, because it was indeed a tricky exchange. \240A quick conversation & I was on my way.

I met Manolo in an OPEN cafe (yes you heard me👏) selling his Camino themed handmade jewelry. “This is not from China. “. \240He was very dapper and happy to have his picture taken.

I walked with a tall Finnish man who jumped over to join me on the Camino. He was a character for sure. \240Finnish Lutheran minister who does heavy metal church services in Helsinki. \240He spoke no Spanish-but his English was pretty good. Shared info while we walked. Before we parted, he asked to pray for me. \240Then did so, with his hand on my head. After he had taken his shirt off. But before taking his socks off. \240I’m just trying to be open to everything.

I’m thankful for these interactions. It has made this time far more interesting.

However, I’m really trying to be contemplative. I brought headphones, but I walk without them. I try not to look \240at my phone unless necessary (outside of using it \240to take way too many photographs) not even to track where I’m going. \240It’s a habit that is hard to break.

But now that it’s almost over, I’ve finally settled into this routine and am proud to say that I’m getting much better at reading the signs. I’m surprised to find that they are always there.

I made it! \240Mission complete. Feeling every emotion.

Can’t \240put any thoughts together tonight so I’ll just leave some photos. \240

Love to all.

Quick stop over in Madrid before heading home. Spent the day renewing my love for this city! The architecture is gorgeous. Beautiful elegant white buildings caught my attention at every turn. Where Porto was crooked color and laid back vibe, Madrid has an elegance and energy that is so attractive. Perhaps the masculine twin to Paris’ feminine energy?

Sangria & Pincho de Torta.

Picked up some art from local artist Antonio Castor whose work I loved & will remind me of my quick visit.

A great bookend

Wrap up:

About 15 years ago I started asking myself this question: “When was the last time you did something for the first time.?” \240I made a promise to do something every year that was new to me. Some big /some small. 2023 threw WAY too many new things at me that checked this box. But they were not my choice.

2024 started out with me choosing the Camino de Santiago.

Some thoughts in review:

*Every day I cycled through every emotion. Happy, sad, mad, confused. There was cussing out loud daily, which I imagine is not exactly proper pilgrim behavior.

*I had to use the bathroom outdoors which is totally NOT my jam & something I never even considered when planning this trip. But I managed to laugh at the absurdity of this new birthday activity. And then I was really, really over it.

*I was proud that my old body did me right and was strong enough to have no issues other than the blisters. \240It made me fondly remember Sean always bragging about my marathon recovery. (Not my actual Running mind you, but the fact that once done I just got ready and went out for margaritas without issue😁)

*I have never considered myself a hippie, in fact far from it. But after day one, \240I said ‘thank you’ out loud to every sign along the way. And to the trees whose scent was calming (resisting the urge to actually hug them) And for all the beautiful moss and the people put in my way. \240Maybe more Buddhist than hippie but I was so grateful in the moment knowing all of these things were helping me get where I was going.

*I thought I’d spend more time focused on Sean. I haven’t really allowed myself to just wallow & I planned these 10 days to devote myself to this in order to allow a fresh start. \240But it turns out this was more inwardly focused. \240I came back pretty much the same me. \240I’ve always been independent, social, looking for creative inspiration & a great story to share. However, \240you do get complacent having a life partner that you can rely on to take care of things that were his skill set vs. yours. \240Now I am in the position of having no choice but to figure crap out on my own.

But this journey (and I often hate that word due to overuse) was just proof to me that I could do it. \240Reawakening some skills & learning some new ones. \240A reminder of what we already know but don’t always put into use- Slow down. Ask for help. Pay attention & be grateful.

Ready to tackle 2024

Thanks for coming along. ❤️